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Seems everyone is recommending much longer OCIs than what the book recommends. It seems crazy too how much the recommended weight for the same engine jumps around from year to year, 5W-30, 5W-20, 10W-30.....really??!! did they really change the clearances that much from one year to the next.

I'm going to say that if the differential is binding that's the source of what your seeing there. I don't think that a little overfull on the oil is going to murk up the oil like that or generate all those shavings that your seeing on the magnet. I'm not familar with subaru but the rear diffs...

I just bought a 2006 Grand Cavaran with the 3.8 V6 and 108,000 miles on it and am curious what oils everyone is having the most success with for this engine. Also looking for opinions in a couple other areas. I've been told that the 3.8 V6 is know for consuming a little oil and it was suggested...

Well it looks like the NAPA does have the G-05. Not sure what was going on the last time I checked it. Must have been a website malfunction. It's a few dollars cheaper than from the dealership so I'll probably go with that. I was under it tonight for an oil change and was looking everything...

Originally Posted By: EricF I would NOT use anything but G-05... Yeah that's pretty much the way I was leaning. Now I've just have to find a place in town that carries it. NAPA used to be the only place so I was checking their web site today and it didn't look like the local store has it...

Originally Posted By: Rock_Hudstone Simply look up the cooling system capacity in the owners manual, divide by half, add that amount of coolant to the drained system and top off as needed with water. Yeah that's the way I've done it in the past. Drain as much water out as possible then add...

I'm planning to do a coolant flush in a 2006 Dodge Grand Caravan. It calls for an HOAT coolant. From what I can find the OEM Chrysler cooland and Zerex G-05 are the only fully compatible options with the Ford OEM coolant being "very similar." Is anyone aware of any other options? Also any...

Seems like the general concensus here is to go 2004 or earlier. I just have to wonder......by the time the van is 9 years old will the better build quality really pay off. Will this really be a vehicle that is more dependable for 1,800 trip than one that is only 6 years old. I guess one of my...

Yeah that's where I'm starting to wonder. Does the loss of reliablity from age by going with a 2001-2004 out weight the loss of reliabily from the trouble years 2006-2010.

Well to some extent I guess I've just gotten spoiled by the 2001 Prism that I have. I think I've had less than 3 actual repairs since I've owned it. Some of that is probably due to the lowish number of miles but either way it's been very reliable. Sounds like if we go with a Caravan we'll need...

Well the family is growing and we are looking to grow our vehicle to accommodate. I was starting to settle on the 2007 to 2010 Caravan/Town & Country until I started reading reviews on edmunds.com. Most of the reviews I read were for the 2008 model year and most of them sited serious brake...

Thanks all for the input. I just talked it over with a mechanic and he looked it up on IATN (I believe that's what it's called). Any way what he found was that on the 2004 (and earlier) honda van there is a component in the torque converter and in the clutch packs on second gear that...

Looking to buy a used mini-van. I usually think of Honda as being a good quality buy but I've been reading some reviews on the 2004 model and it sounds like a ton of major automatic transmission problems often costing in excess of $3000 to repair. From the reviews looks like about 2000 to 2004...

I'd say it was a bit of both. It wasn't a very thick coating at all but it was kinda dark with some whitish stuff all through it.

I was on a road trip this month in my 01 chevy prism and the check engine light came on. The car was running well and the gas mileage was normal so I finished the trip. Then after getting home I took it in to see our mechanic to get the code read . The car was reporting a "too lean" condition...

Well turns out it was in fact the tesioner that was causing the rattle. Replaced it and the noise is gone.

Well seems like I noticed mine being in a similar condition the last time I looked at it...Sounds like it could be the solution. Thanks.

Unfortunately I only replaced the pulley itself. I should check and see if there is a TSB on the 2001 model too.

I've got a 2001 chevy prism with a bit of a rattle coming from under the hood. I removed the accessory belt, started it up and no rattle. So it's definitely something driven by the belt. Interestingly it really only makes the noise when the engine is under load (in gear or AC turned on) at...

ZeeOSix is right it's just general opinion of the Bob is the Oil guy members. I actually started looking into oil filter quality with this oil filter study: http://minimopar.knizefamily.net/oilfilters/index.html but many members here have duplicated this guy's approach to the study or gone...