Recent content by rvt

Yes on the 4runner I used to vacuum extract the oil so I never needed to crawl under the vehicle at all. Plus extract around the filter mount to catch anything in that valley. Although I'm sure a case could be made to crawl under and check things out for leaks etc. Yes on the Frontier filter...

0W40 is fine in the Toyota 4.0. Love that engine for an oil change with filter right on top! I use Mobil 1 0W40 in my 4.0 Nissan Frontier-different engine obviously and probably an engine which is more suitable for a heavier oil.

I've used Mobil 1 5W20 in an 08 4runner w/ 4.0. In fact I think it was kept in for 10K miles. No ill effects, no bearing noise at startup etc. These are very stout engines. Let it go the full change interval, and if you feel better with 5W30, go with that next time.

Personally I stick to spec or near spec oils for my vehicles. But then I'm on top of the maintenance. I've known people who are grossly neglectful of their engines here in so. CA. Triple factory OCI recommendations. If you had to pick an oil for that service..what would it be? I'm thinking...

I just let my Honda Accord go 8700 miles on factory fill. Against my grain, but Honda makes a big deal out of it, and analysis reports show relatively low iron on these intervals. Without all that, I would have changed it early-maybe 3000 miles. You may want to check and see if there are any...

Mine smells like used gasoline engine oil. I waited to post on this thread because I just drained my first GDI vehicle today. Smells pretty much the same as other gas engines I've had. Generally more pungent the longer oil stays in service-but much the same odor. I have noticed problem...

2015 Honda Accord 2.4 8700 miles Out: Factory fill, Honda filter 15% oil life In: Toyota 0W20 (leftover from Camry), Honda oil filter.

Engines generally use more oil at high speed and load. Oil is hotter, thinner, and flying around inside engine. Compression and oil consumption often don't go hand in hand-in either direction. Oil rings could be stuck, bearings passing more oil than new and some of winding up on cylinder walls...

I had a '12 Camry (nice car) with 4 cyl 2.5. I used Toyota 0W20, probably would have used Mobil 1 otherwise. Certainly any of the major synthetics would work fine. Tips for the oil filter: Get the tool which specifically fits it. I used torque wrench and observed the torque specs for both the...

I don't see anything alarming about the overall rate of consumption given the high mileage of the engine. If it were mine, I'd pull out all the spark plugs and verify they all look the same and none are getting excess oil. Once in a while an oil consuming engine will burn nearly all of it in one...

Just to clarify, I don't think we're talking about ash technically-I would strongly suspect most of these deposits would burn when exposed to high heat and oxygen. Ash is what you'd see on an exhaust valve -and as you know there isn't much. What's stuck to the intake ports (which run too cool to...

Remember too there have been DI diesel engines with closed crankcase systems, most with turbos for decades. Intake valve temps would be all over the map, depending on operating conditions and turbocharging. The one thing nearly all don't have is intake manifold vacuum which tends to suck oil...

I have a '15 4 cyl Accord and am not going to lose any sleep over it. Knew GDI issues when I bought it. There has been a phobia of the new in automotive since I was teenager in 1960s. Some justified/some not. One thing not mentioned much in this thread is leakage past the valve guides. This...

It probably would very slightly decrease engine power by raising the thermostat temperature opening point. Reduces charge density. Fuel economy who knows? If it pulling back timing due to extra heat or knock you may lose economy. All in all, probably every bit of this would be lost in the noise...

Originally Posted By: Greg L My wife now drives round trip for two miles in her commute. Average speed 30 mph. On a 1996 GMC with 215k miles and 5.7 350 engine. New water pump and radiator. My question: do I change from the usual Smittys 5w30 HM and occasional Pennz HM? Or switch back to...