Oil choice for 07 GSXR 600

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First off I am not sure where to post this....

I will be buying an 07 GSXR 600 in the next couple of weeks and was wondering what oil to use at different intervals.

I will be changing the oil as follows:

50 miles
150 miles
600 miles

From 600 on as the manufaturer recommends.

I am thinking Rotella 15w40 for the short intervals, but have a few questions.

Does the new Rotella have Moly in it?
Is it safe for wet clutches?
Would it void my warranty?

After 600 miles I plan on synthetic with either Rotella T 5w40 or Amsoil MC 10w40. Sorry if i'm
deadhorse.gif
but I am new to motorcycles "again".
 
Rotella does not contain Moly unless they added it with the new CJ-4 reformulation.

Moly itself is not always a problem for wet clutches. The thing you want to look out for are oils that are "friction modified".

None of the HDEO's (Rotella, Delvac, Delo, etc) are friction modified.

As to the required oil viscosity, standards, and certification Suzuki requires you will have to read the owners manual.

I have run 15W-50 Mobil 1 for many miles in a Kawasaki ZG1000 Concours and only switched to Rotella T Synthetic 5W-40 after Mobil reduced the additive levels in 15W-50. For the GSXR if I wanted to run Mobil 1 I would run MX4-T if you could get it for a decent price. Its to pricey for a Concours.

Even if you are one of those people who worry about break-in with synthetics (not really an issue) Rotella T Synthetic 5W-40 is Group III.

You aree being to anal on break-in. I would run the OEM oil 300 mi and then switch to the Synthetic of your choice.

PS Nice Bike! I have been thinking about getting a new Sport Bike (Ducati 1098) myself.
 
Rotella synthetic has been working great in my '01 GSXR 600. I beat the #@$%! out of it on track days and no problems with clutch slippage or anything else.
 
I break in all my bikes on the factory fill for 100 miles then go synthetic. But you would be amazed to see all the #@$%! that comes out of your engine at 100 miles. Lots if debris. Then I drain again at 500, 1000, 2500 and I'm done. You can break in with synthetic but give the bike more mileage because initial wear takes a little longer. But what you get is nice burnished internal parts that purr. My newest Harley Twin Cam runs very smooth and quiet compared to some guys I know who ran the factory fill to 1000 and change oil once. I would recommend you use a cheaper GroupIII synthetic for break-in then run Mobil1 motorcycle rated oil. You won't be sorry when you see how smooth your new engine runs.
 
Go right ahead. I broke a new DL 650 in with a similar oil (Delo 400) with no issues whatsoever. I then put D1 in it and it is running very well - no oil consumption and shifts very smoothly. I like to dump the factory oil after the ride home, but that's me!

John.
 
I ran kawasaki oil in my zx10. Changed it at 500, 1500, then switched to redline synthetic at 3k. I have rotella in there now and can a difference in shift quality and I can hear more engine noise. I just ordered some more redline to change it with. I am only running the rotella 1k miles but ran the redline 3k. I have a uoa in the other mc forum. It held up well at 3k miles.
 
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I ran kawasaki oil in my zx10. Changed it at 500, 1500, then switched to redline synthetic at 3k. I have rotella in there now and can a difference in shift quality and I can hear more engine noise. I just ordered some more redline to change it with. I am only running the rotella 1k miles but ran the redline 3k. I have a uoa in the other mc forum. It held up well at 3k miles.




I thought that Redline could cause issues with wet clutches because of the hign moly count.
 
fyi

from JASO

Quote:


Motorcycle oil info


Energy Conserving: The “Energy Conserving” designation applies to oils intended for gasoline-engine cars, vans, and light trucks. Widespread use of “Energy Conserving” oils may result in an overall savings of fuel in the vehicle fleet as a whole.


FRICTION MODIFIER
Definition: Additives that reduce the friction of moving engine parts or oil flow in the engine.



Though 4-cycle motorcycle engines may be considered more similar to automobile engines than 2-stroke motorcycle engines, they still have very different performance requirements. Historically, 4-stroke motorcycles have had problems with gear pitting wear in the transmissions and clutch slippage. In many cases, this can be directly attributed to the oil used. Most automotive engine oil is developed to minimize friction and maximize fuel economy. Since the oil for many 4-stroke motorcycles is circulated not only through the engine [as with an automobile], but also through the transmission and clutch, different characteristics are required of the oil. First, a certain amount of friction is necessary to prevent clutch slippage. Second, the oil needs to prevent wear and pitting in the gears of the transmission. These and other essential characteristics are addressed in the standards developed by JASO for 4-stroke engines.

As with the 2-stroke classification, the JASO 4-stroke classification is also divided into grades, MA and MB. MB is lower friction oil, while MA is relatively higher friction oil. Other than friction, the JASO 4-stroke classification tests for five other physicochemical properties: sulfated ash, evaporative loss, foaming tendency, shear stability, and high temperature high shear viscosity (HTHS). Sulfated ash can cause pre-ignition if the oil is present in the combustion chamber. It can also contribute to deposits above the piston rings and subsequent valve leakage. Evaporative loss and foaming reduce the amount of lubrication and protection in the transmission, engine, and clutch. With less shear stability, oil loses its capability of retaining original viscosity resulting in increased metal-to-metal contact and wear. High temperature high shear viscosity tests provide viscosity characteristics and data under severe temperature and shear environments.




 
You can get the redline at www.#@$%!.com for $7.95 per quart. Every time I have ordered from them I receive it in 3-4 days.

Please don't post links to vendors who are not site sponsors. Thanks. -Admin
 
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Are you saying that I should only use MC approved oils?




you can use whatever you want.

imho, the MC oils are a huge waste of money that don't stand up to even the virgors a simple 3 hour test.

why spend 7.95 or 9.95 or 11.95 per quart/liter when the same quality of oil can be had for 0.79 per quart?
and i use the term quality based upon post use viscosity tests that the JASO spec is bascially requiring. ie, it don't sheer down.
 
Redline is a group V and definitely one of the best out there. I am using M1 Vtwin until my motor has 3000 miles because they tell you not to use Redline before 3000 but I am using the MTL in the primary & Shockproof Heavy in the trans....both excellent products. I have 3 qts of the Redline 20w50 waiting for 3000 on the clock.
 
Quote:


Quote:


Are you saying that I should only use MC approved oils?




you can use whatever you want.

imho, the MC oils are a huge waste of money that don't stand up to even the virgors a simple 3 hour test.

why spend 7.95 or 9.95 or 11.95 per quart/liter when the same quality of oil can be had for 0.79 per quart?
and i use the term quality based upon post use viscosity tests that the JASO spec is bascially requiring. ie, it don't sheer down.




Could you explain what your talking about? JASO MA spec oils dont hold up in a 3 hour test? What test? They dont hold up based on what?
 
I've decided Rotella dino 15w40 for break in afterwards I will switch to Rotella synthetic 5w40. There doesn't seem to be a better choice!
 
I can only advise that the good "old formula" AMO Amsoil 10W-40 works just great in my ZX-11D: fantastic shift improvement!

Their AME 15W-40 is also IMHO a fine oil for your application. I don't know about the need for a 5W oil in 'Bama, though.

Cheers!
 
One more question..... Out of Rotella 15w40 dino and Rotella 5w40 synthetic which is more shear stable? As you can imagine this will be the number one concern.
 
Quote:


One more question..... Out of Rotella 15w40 dino and Rotella 5w40 synthetic which is more shear stable? As you can imagine this will be the number one concern.




The 15w40, but the 5w40 would be a better fit for your 600 IMO.
 
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