I am completely new to the European Vehicles. Always owned old american cars, I know VW has certain oil requirements like the low ash oil. What oil would be best? Amsoil? Valvoline? These are 2 brands I really like. Any helpful info or tips? Thanks.
Best Oil For 80k+ 2011 VW GTI 2.0T
- Thread starter Hutch18
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Any oil that meets VW 502 00 should work out fine. These are typically 0W40 or 5W40 synthetic oils.
https://www.audiusa.com/content/dam...Technical-Service-Bulletin-1.22.2018.pdf
https://www.audiusa.com/content/dam...Technical-Service-Bulletin-1.22.2018.pdf
Castrol or Mobil 1 0w40 both work as well as any boutique oil in these engines and are readily available for short money at Walmart.
I own a mk6 GTI like you with the same engine. Mine is a 2013 and has a manual transmission. Mine has 142K on it. My wife uses it on her business travels a lot.
I think you got bad info regarding VW and low ash oil for your car.
If I were you, I would replace that timing chain tensioner with the latest revised one ASAP. That is the weak point on the earlier MK6 GTI's and no oil on earth will help with the earlier tensioner design flaw.
You live in Michigan and most likely near a Meijer store. Look for a 5 qt jug of Valvoline 0W40 or 5W40 at Meijer. The 5W40 is a mid saps oil while the 0W40 is a full saps formulation. Both are VW 502 oils.
If you want a low ash oil, look for something that is VW 504/507.
BTW, the intake manifold on my GTI went out around 82K. I cleaned the intake valves and injector tips while I was at it.
The on engine mechanical fuel pump gave out while my wife was far from home. Easy to replace. The car can run on the in tank fuel pump but you lose a lot of power.
The oil separator gave out once. If that goes out, STOP DRIVING your car and have it towed and replace it. Unless you wanna pop the rear main seal and add another $1000.00
to the repair bill.
The dual mass flywheel gave out at 50K. Right after my wife got back from seeing her parents in NYC, which murdered it.
Could of had it replaced free under warranty. Figured deal with it on my dime now and make it reliable with a traditional flywheel, new clutch and throwout bearing.
There are two water pumps on these cars. One is electric that sometimes runs when you shut the car off. The electric unit is known to fail, but mine hasn't yet.
Again, the timing chain tensioner is something I would replace if I owned your car.
Ignition coils weren't very reliable but they are cheap to replace with the latest revised part number. In fact, I'd replace them now to have piece of mind, carry a spare in the spare tire well and carry one of those blue tooth code readers. When my wife broke down far from home, she plugged in the code reader and I determined it was most likely the fuel pump which it was, a dealer had it in stock and I got her going again.
ECS Tuning is a good source of genuine and quality aftermarket VW parts.
This Youtube channel has many videos on VW TSI engine repairs like replacing the intake manifold and oil separator.
I think you got bad info regarding VW and low ash oil for your car.
If I were you, I would replace that timing chain tensioner with the latest revised one ASAP. That is the weak point on the earlier MK6 GTI's and no oil on earth will help with the earlier tensioner design flaw.
You live in Michigan and most likely near a Meijer store. Look for a 5 qt jug of Valvoline 0W40 or 5W40 at Meijer. The 5W40 is a mid saps oil while the 0W40 is a full saps formulation. Both are VW 502 oils.
If you want a low ash oil, look for something that is VW 504/507.
BTW, the intake manifold on my GTI went out around 82K. I cleaned the intake valves and injector tips while I was at it.
The on engine mechanical fuel pump gave out while my wife was far from home. Easy to replace. The car can run on the in tank fuel pump but you lose a lot of power.
The oil separator gave out once. If that goes out, STOP DRIVING your car and have it towed and replace it. Unless you wanna pop the rear main seal and add another $1000.00
to the repair bill.
The dual mass flywheel gave out at 50K. Right after my wife got back from seeing her parents in NYC, which murdered it.
Could of had it replaced free under warranty. Figured deal with it on my dime now and make it reliable with a traditional flywheel, new clutch and throwout bearing.
There are two water pumps on these cars. One is electric that sometimes runs when you shut the car off. The electric unit is known to fail, but mine hasn't yet.
Again, the timing chain tensioner is something I would replace if I owned your car.
Ignition coils weren't very reliable but they are cheap to replace with the latest revised part number. In fact, I'd replace them now to have piece of mind, carry a spare in the spare tire well and carry one of those blue tooth code readers. When my wife broke down far from home, she plugged in the code reader and I determined it was most likely the fuel pump which it was, a dealer had it in stock and I got her going again.
ECS Tuning is a good source of genuine and quality aftermarket VW parts.
This Youtube channel has many videos on VW TSI engine repairs like replacing the intake manifold and oil separator.
And if you have the CCTA emissions engine code, you have the better tune from the factory compared to the CBFA engine. The CCTA HP and torque numbers are under rated.
From Mobil:
User edyvw once discussed here Valvoline MST 5w40... Use search function
Originally Posted by Kamele0N
User edyvw once discussed here Valvoline MST 5w40... Use search function
Yes, really good and stout oil. It is ACEA C3.
User edyvw once discussed here Valvoline MST 5w40... Use search function
Yes, really good and stout oil. It is ACEA C3.
Thanks for all the great information. I checked out the car fax and its had some good amount of work done. Now im not sure exactly what. My first plan of action was making sure I had the new revision tensioner not sure if the one of the previous owners replaced it or not. If not thats getting done asap. And mines the 6 speed as well. Getting it tomorrow with 4-8 inches of snow on the ground. Wish me Luck
Yes definitely do that, being an 11 it definitely had the bad one when built. Switch over didn't start until mid 2012 production and even then may not have included all models.
My son has a 2012 Tiguan he just bought for a song from a family member, built in February 2012. He took it in immediately to have the tensioner looked at, to our surprise (and relief) it already had the new one.
My son has a 2012 Tiguan he just bought for a song from a family member, built in February 2012. He took it in immediately to have the tensioner looked at, to our surprise (and relief) it already had the new one.
Originally Posted by Hutch18
Originally Posted by skyactiv
And if you have the CCTA emissions engine code, you have the better tune from the factory compared to the CBFA engine. The CCTA HP and torque numbers are under rated.
How can I check the emission codes?
Check the airbox if it has an additional hose attached to it.
CBFA has the secondary air injection for emissions as well as 3 oxygen sensors instead of 2
Originally Posted by skyactiv
And if you have the CCTA emissions engine code, you have the better tune from the factory compared to the CBFA engine. The CCTA HP and torque numbers are under rated.
How can I check the emission codes?
Check the airbox if it has an additional hose attached to it.
CBFA has the secondary air injection for emissions as well as 3 oxygen sensors instead of 2
Originally Posted by UG_Passat
Originally Posted by Hutch18
Originally Posted by skyactiv
And if you have the CCTA emissions engine code, you have the better tune from the factory compared to the CBFA engine. The CCTA HP and torque numbers are under rated.
How can I check the emission codes?
Check the airbox if it has an additional hose attached to it.
CBFA has the secondary air injection for emissions as well as 3 oxygen sensors instead of 2
Looks like i got the ccta no secondary hose.
Originally Posted by Hutch18
Originally Posted by skyactiv
And if you have the CCTA emissions engine code, you have the better tune from the factory compared to the CBFA engine. The CCTA HP and torque numbers are under rated.
How can I check the emission codes?
Check the airbox if it has an additional hose attached to it.
CBFA has the secondary air injection for emissions as well as 3 oxygen sensors instead of 2
Looks like i got the ccta no secondary hose.
RossTech has a great scanning program that downloads + updates on your computer, of course a laptop so you can plug in wherever your car is. there are various versions at different prices. i had a 2001 jetta 1.8T with various upgrades, a great car except that i stripped the teeth off 5th gear while boosting to 25lb! i know have a 2001 TT roadster i enjoy greatly. your newer DI engine is quite different than mine but the "second" water pump is a small after rum pump that cools the turbo after engine is shut down i believe. in Pa i ran 10-30 Amsoil when it was PAO + Ester i believe + later went to Redline 10-30 as i only had a 4.25 qt capacity. this is a great forum for oil but the VWVortex is where its at for overall information for VW's
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