Help with bypass idea

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First off, hello to everyone on the forum.

Second, I'd just like some help trying to confirm an idea I had for a bypass oil filter. The element I've found is a Donaldson P572671. It is a cartridge type element and I have not been able to figure out what housing this element would fit in. I've got most of the plan worked out like mounting location and pressure access/return and such. However I know the very knowledgeable people here may be able to shed some light on my little project. Please let me know what you think specifically with housing recommendations. I am more interested in seeing if I can make this work as opposed to purchasing an off the shelf unit just for clarification.

Thank you again.
 
First off
welcome2.gif


Secondly,

https://www.searchlock.com/search?q=Donaldson+P572671&slr=1&tsrc=b&sr=omniredir-bing
https://www.amazon.com/Donaldson-kfP572671-P572671-Filter/dp/B00KNIQFCG#feature-bullets-btf
https://www.dieselequipmentinc.com/products/p572671
https://www.everythingtruckparts.com/product/donaldson-p572671-hydraulic-filter

You gotta explain, Lucy, HOW can you possibly save any money by designing a DIY setup where you have to come up with a housing, design proper restriction orifice sizing, mount and plumb the thing, (purchase and install hose and fittings), and GUESS how long the filter element is going to last, and when the filter cartridge becomes clogged and replacement is necessary, the filter element cost is $90-$100?

I have two bypass filters in series, and the replacement elements are $18-$28, but I may not need elements for 25-40,000 miles. Amsoil bypass elements are about $30, but they are supposed to last about 60K miles? Do you hope to out design what's already tried and true and on the market?

Users on this forum cry and whine and call a Fram Ultra expensive (less than $15).

I mean no mockery; I'm truly bewildered. Do you have a reasonably economic and engineered plan sir?
 
While I can appreciate a DIY approach, ihatetochangeoil brings up valid points. If you are putting forth the effort, a proven design might be a better way to go for good results.
If you are set on your intentions, go for it! Let the board know how it goes, get pictures.
I've been doing a LOT of research lately, and have a Frantz unit here, and a Racor coming to make a final decision. I liked the FS2500, but don't have room. The Frantz and Racor LFS801 are just right. Big price difference though. 115. in the Frantz, about double that in the Racor.
 
Welcome FamousAmos50 to the forum.
You are at the right place as there is a wealth of knowledge/information to be gained. Before I weigh in I'd like to know what vehicle you plan on putting this Bypass Setup on?
 
Like Crusher said: Vehicle, year, engine, motor oil brand and viscosity, sump volume, planned change interval, budget. Bypass filters can be with: a spin on filter, toilet paper filter, centrifuge, etc. Where are you going to tap the engine for the input line for your filter and where are you planning on returning the oil back into the engine? Lots of things to consider.
 
I'd like to respond to everyone at once, and also preface with the fact that since this is really my first post on this forum, I don't want to come off like I'm peddling someone's product (I may do a write up at some point but for the time being I'm not naming names).

1. Donald: I currently use a spin on filter - Donaldson P564967, in a parallel flow configuration that seems to work quite well.

2. Ihatetochangeoil: My idea definitely does not follow typical logic in that I'm not necessarily after extended UOA's or to save any money for that matter. I would just like to keep my vehicle in good running condition as long as possible. As far as guessing how long the element will last, the quick answer is differential pressure as determined by pressure gauges on a housing. (I DO NOT INTEND TO COME OFF SARCASTIC OR NEGATIVE IN ANY WAY)

3. Crusher: I have an existing system on an 06 Tacoma 1GR-FE. It is not a standard bypass setup whereby the return goes back to the sump via different routes. I initially tried this with a Frantz and plumbed a "Tee" off the oil sending unit, however the VVTI on this engine was not actuating properly, apparently due to that minor drop in oil pressure from tapping that location (I tried a flow restrictor as well as changing to the smallest hose I could get my hands on. I could not get it working properly and ended up trying a parallel system as I was on a trip and able to pick it up. It has worked very well based only on my own "seat of the pants" assessment. I do not have UOA's to back it up at this time, however, time permitting, this may change in the near future.

4. xtell: 2006 Toyota Tacoma, engine 1GR-FE, oil brand has changed a few times, although I had run 5W30 QSUD for about 4 months and the truck ran great. Before that, RP because I got it cheap-ish and I thought it was great. Currently I've got about 3/4 sump of 0w20 MAG 1 and some leftoever 5W30 QSUD (weather was cold enough that it was starting rough so I did it in a pinch, seems ok though). As far as budget, I'm just curious to see if I can make this work BETTER (IMHO) and for what money. If it seems feasible I will attempt it, if not, I'll run what brung me. And to your final question, it is a parallel system, as this was the only way I could get very fine filtration while still allowing the VVTI to properly actuate. Obviously this isn't a new vehicle, its just about at 100k, but I've always taken great care of it, doing scheduled myself on time.

Again, I'm not saying I'm trying to re-invent the wheel, just perhaps DIY improve upon something I've already got because.....well because I guess I want to. I apologize if this does not jive well with the notion that these systems should only be used for extended UOA's to see a reasonable ROI. The fact of the matter is that I don't put enough miles on the ODO each year for that to be super beneficial. On the contrary, my commute is short, this system seemed to greatly improve how well my truck runs on a day to day basis. The other DIY addon I've got is a home made PCV separator and that seems to make a noticeable improvement as well. I've got questions on suggestions for that as well, probably in another post however.

Thank you all for your time, input and replies. I am taking your advice into consideration, and am excited to see what your future response to this will be. Have a great evening.
 
That Donaldson oil filter you have been using as a bypass filter, filters down to 5 microns. You mention that the current system that you have plumbed in is a "parallel configuration". A bypass system would also be a type of "parallel system". From the bypass systems I have installed on my vehicles, I always have a full flow filter installed and I tap off an oil supply line / port to send oil to the bypass unit, my intake lines, to the filter, are fitted with an .03 inch restrictor fitting to restrict oil flow into the bypass unit. I would think that if you had a very low flow restrictor (.03 or even smaller) the amount of oil flowing to the bypass unit of your choice would be low enough that you would not experience any pressure drop. My return lines always go to the valve cover or oil fill cap Your VVT-i system on the engine, if I'm correct, works by oil pressure working between the camshaft and camshaft drive pulley to vary camshaft position. If your current bypass set up is working well for you and you are not experiencing any oil pressure related issues (camshaft timing), maybe you should just stick with it. I have several Frantz filters and one Wix bypass filter installed on my trucks / cars and have not experienced any issues with pressure drop via the oil pressure gauges I have installed. Another thing to think about is if you are not going to do a used oil analysis, you will have no way of knowing how well your bypass system is working or how long you can extend your oil change interval. ihatetochangeoil, beanoil, and A310, to name a few, are the experts on Bypass Systems and have a lot of experience so they should be able to sort out your issues. If you have any questions on Bypass Systems with Frantz Bypass units or power steering / transmission fluid remote mount filters, I will be glad to share my experience with them, as I have them mounted on my cars a work trucks. Keep the questions coming - we will help you out!!!

nuff said,

xtell
 
Originally Posted By: FamousAmos50
.... Again, I'm not saying I'm trying to re-invent the wheel, just perhaps DIY improve upon something I've already got because.....well because I guess I want to. I apologize if this does not jive well with the notion that these systems should only be used for extended UOA's to see a reasonable ROI. The fact of the matter is that I don't put enough miles on the ODO each year for that to be super beneficial. On the contrary, my commute is short, this system seemed to greatly improve how well my truck runs on a day to day basis. ....



Well this is refreshing to hear someone admit it's just for fun because they "want to" do it, rather than some silly self-justification using mythology and rhetoric. Clearly you understand it wont' pay back the ROI.

I would ask, simply because you seem to be somewhat analytical (admittedly all we know is from a few posts ...) a question:
How is it that you are quantifying "this system seemed to greatly improve how well my truck runs on a day to day basis"?
Are you using objective means, or subjective means, to assess this improvement?
I'm not picking on you; just curious to understand if you're using accurate measurables or just "feels better", "accelerates smoother", etc ???
 
I agree with the notion of building an oil bypass system for fun, but for practicality.. why re-invent the wheel.

I have an FS2500 on my F350 6.7l and while I took my oil feed from the port containing my oil pressure sensor, I chose to run my return line right through the oil pan drain hole. I had leaks trying to run the line through my oil fill cap, plus I find myself amused with the change.
 
More to the topic of building an oil bypass filter, I'm now looking into an oil bypass system for my older Ford Explorer. Either putting one together as an educational experience, yet preferably something economical and small enough to fit on the frame or in the engine bay. The trick is to be small enough to fit and large enough to handle the filtration. I doubt that my 1997 Explorer will need much size for its engine.
 
Originally Posted By: WallyMaven
I agree with the notion of building an oil bypass system for fun, but for practicality.. why re-invent the wheel.

I have an FS2500 on my F350 6.7l and while I took my oil feed from the port containing my oil pressure sensor, I chose to run my return line right through the oil pan drain hole. I had leaks trying to run the line through my oil fill cap, plus I find myself amused with the change.

I bet that's amusing when you drain... I thought about that idea, drilling a drain plug and tapping a return fitting. Discarded that pretty quick thinking about draining.
The pan comes off pretty easy, there are aluminum pans for the 11 model to replace the plastic leaker. I think when I do mine, I'm going to go aluminum and drill and tap a return.
https://www.strictlydiesel.com/p-3643-driven-diesel-67l-oil-pan.aspx
You could have a bung welded in the steel pan for a return as well.
 
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My truck is the 2013 model with the aluminum pan,which I am grateful for. I actually find oil change time a bit easier because the oil tends to just gush out in a great big rush ordinarily. Now I just disconnect the oil fitting attached to the adapter threaded into the oil pan drain hole and the oil pours out at a reasonable rate into my catch pan. Takes about 5 minutes to drain.
A welded bung would work pretty well also.
 
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