Spark Plug Change Rough Start All But Gone

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Hey everyone,
I changed my plugs a few weeks ago to original densos. Since it was my first time, I used a torque wrench and didn't check to see if they were sitting snug. I have been having rough cold starts for a while now and I couldn't replicate it by cutting the engine and restarting again. I tried cycling the key from off to on (just before the crank position) a few times and it seemed to help a little bit.
I thought it was the fuel pump, but when I took the coils and wires off this morning, they were snug, spark plugs were not. I tightened all 4 plugs down until they were snug without overdoing it. Then I carefully put the coils and wires on. I put zip ties on the wires just in case since the clips on these break very easily.
I'll keep y'all posted if the noise returns, but I think it was just low compression from the plugs not sitting well.

Any opinions as to what it could have been?
 
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Only things I can think of that would leave torqued spark plugs loose:

1. Your torque wrench is damaged and did not actually apply specified torque.

2. You torqued using pounds-inch rather that pounds-feet resulting in torquinf to 1/12 of desired lb-ft torque.
 
Originally Posted By: Exit32
Only things I can think of that would leave torqued spark plugs loose:

1. Your torque wrench is damaged and did not actually apply specified torque.

2. You torqued using pounds-inch rather that pounds-feet resulting in torquinf to 1/12 of desired lb-ft torque.

It was from the Autozone loan a tool so thats definitely a possibility.

Also I looked up the torque online for this engine is 14 lb-ft. The wrench I had was lb-in as you said, but after doing multiple conversions I found that 14lb-ft=168lb-in.

Either way, I now know to verify the fitment of the plug after torquing it, or not use a torque wrench at all and just do a quarter turn after its somewhat snug. Thanks!
 
Were the heads warm? I have seen that happen with warm aluminum heads. I change aluminum heads stone cold, and i tighten by feel for spark plugs. You do have to be careful not to over-tighten in aluminum heads especially if you use anti-seize.
 
Originally Posted By: spasm3
Were the heads warm? I have seen that happen with warm aluminum heads. I change aluminum heads stone cold, and i tighten by feel for spark plugs. You do have to be careful not to over-tighten in aluminum heads especially if you use anti-seize.

Engine was ice cold when I changed it and when I checked everything this morning. When I tightened them today I did it by feel as well. How do you know when it's overtightened? I just tightened them until I felt a good amount of resistance and didn't go beyond that.
 
I know anti-seize is the correct compound, but I have been having better luck with marine wheel bearing grease. Allows the plugs to go in nice and smooth, but bakes down to firm gell that seems to help hold plugs in place over the long haul
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Originally Posted By: BrocLuno
I know anti-seize is the correct compound, but I have been having better luck with marine wheel bearing grease. Allows the plugs to go in nice and smooth, but bakes down to firm gell that seems to help hold plugs in place over the long haul
smile.gif


Thank you Broc! I'll look into getting some when I change the plugs again.
 
Did you Zip tie the high tension wires together? If so, you may be getting cross firing or possibly inducing a current in the opposing wire. Ed
 
Originally Posted By: Eddie
Did you Zip tie the high tension wires together? If so, you may be getting cross firing or possibly inducing a current in the opposing wire. Ed

LOL no. The part where the ignition coil attaches to the head of each individual wire plug (I think thats what its called). The clips that hold the wire plug to the coil break off easily. They fit snug, but I just zip tied them incase I hit a bump or something. It might not make a difference, but better safe than sorry.
 
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