Unrelated, but looks like that oil pan has been removed before. Was the engine sludged or did a rear main have to be replaced or something?
need help ASAP
- Thread starter lucas01230
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Hey Ducked! I LOVE the industrial floor tiles you describe.
You must've gotten them for free since you're the guy who suggested that someone should use a cardboard box lined with "several, if necessary" garbage bags to do transmission drains.
Talk about risking a huge spill in order to save a couple of bucks...rhymes with ducks.
You must've gotten them for free since you're the guy who suggested that someone should use a cardboard box lined with "several, if necessary" garbage bags to do transmission drains.
Talk about risking a huge spill in order to save a couple of bucks...rhymes with ducks.
Originally Posted By: Miller88
Unrelated, but looks like that oil pan has been removed before. Was the engine sludged or did a rear main have to be replaced or something?
The car, not mine, was in an accident involving a big rig 2 years back. Passenger side of vehicle was affected. A body/mechanic shop did all the work for that. I am not sure if they opened up the pan. She doesn't know where the receipt or part list or anything like that is. What makes you think it looked open before? From my knownlege, there was no issues with sludge.
Unrelated, but looks like that oil pan has been removed before. Was the engine sludged or did a rear main have to be replaced or something?
The car, not mine, was in an accident involving a big rig 2 years back. Passenger side of vehicle was affected. A body/mechanic shop did all the work for that. I am not sure if they opened up the pan. She doesn't know where the receipt or part list or anything like that is. What makes you think it looked open before? From my knownlege, there was no issues with sludge.
Originally Posted By: Ducked
Originally Posted By: lucas01230
Originally Posted By: MarkM66
Originally Posted By: lucas01230
Originally Posted By: MarkM66
Kira said:3) I've always employed boards (good 2X6's) to ease jacking with a toy jack.
Do you mean like a 2 piece 4x4 of 2x6 to put ontop of the jack?
I love wood, but in this application it may not be best for the job, because of all that beautiful grain and figuring, which can lead to sudden splitting under a point load.
A heavy bidirectional laminate array of biopolymer microtubules (plywood) is safer, but I have some stainless steel rubber-backed industrial floor tiles that I use for this sort of thing.
I was thinking the same, the wood would probably split. so maybe some bidirectional laminate array of bio polymer microtubules would work well.
Originally Posted By: Ducked
Originally Posted By: TMoto
Always use jack stands set in the proper location for the vehicle!!
"proper location" is ambiguous, but I'd guess you mean the ones in the handbook, as specified by the manufacturer.
If so, I'd say "not necessarily"
On older vehicles these locations are quite often compromised by corrosion and can be unsafe.
On my current vehicle, the recommended location at the front is strong enough but looks like it was unsafe when it came from the factory, since the jack (or at least, MY jack) is poorly located there.
You have to use judgement and find safe jacking points that you, the operative at risk, are comfortable with. Speaking personally, these are seldom if ever those in the handbook.
I stand by my statement based on what I see in the picture. No offense to OP, but it appears he used his judgment and we're now aware of the situation he's in. Many a shade tree mechanic has had a jack slip and been injured or lost their life. I was only trying to be helpful to OP. You with your experience can put your jack stands wherever you please. One must be mindful of his audience.
Originally Posted By: TMoto
Always use jack stands set in the proper location for the vehicle!!
"proper location" is ambiguous, but I'd guess you mean the ones in the handbook, as specified by the manufacturer.
If so, I'd say "not necessarily"
On older vehicles these locations are quite often compromised by corrosion and can be unsafe.
On my current vehicle, the recommended location at the front is strong enough but looks like it was unsafe when it came from the factory, since the jack (or at least, MY jack) is poorly located there.
You have to use judgement and find safe jacking points that you, the operative at risk, are comfortable with. Speaking personally, these are seldom if ever those in the handbook.
I stand by my statement based on what I see in the picture. No offense to OP, but it appears he used his judgment and we're now aware of the situation he's in. Many a shade tree mechanic has had a jack slip and been injured or lost their life. I was only trying to be helpful to OP. You with your experience can put your jack stands wherever you please. One must be mindful of his audience.
Originally Posted By: TMoto
Originally Posted By: Ducked
Originally Posted By: TMoto
Always use jack stands set in the proper location for the vehicle!!
"proper location" is ambiguous, but I'd guess you mean the ones in the handbook, as specified by the manufacturer.
If so, I'd say "not necessarily"
On older vehicles these locations are quite often compromised by corrosion and can be unsafe.
On my current vehicle, the recommended location at the front is strong enough but looks like it was unsafe when it came from the factory, since the jack (or at least, MY jack) is poorly located there.
You have to use judgement and find safe jacking points that you, the operative at risk, are comfortable with. Speaking personally, these are seldom if ever those in the handbook.
I stand by my statement based on what I see in the picture. No offense to OP, but it appears he used his judgment and we're now aware of the situation he's in. Many a shade tree mechanic has had a jack slip and been injured or lost their life. I was only trying to be helpful to OP. You with your experience can put your jack stands wherever you please. One must be mindful of his audience.
I take your words kindly. It isnt a matter of the jacking points on this vehicle. There is absolutely nowhere else better than this spot on the GS300 if you want to jack up 2 wheels at once. It was more of a matter of technique i suppose.
Originally Posted By: Ducked
Originally Posted By: TMoto
Always use jack stands set in the proper location for the vehicle!!
"proper location" is ambiguous, but I'd guess you mean the ones in the handbook, as specified by the manufacturer.
If so, I'd say "not necessarily"
On older vehicles these locations are quite often compromised by corrosion and can be unsafe.
On my current vehicle, the recommended location at the front is strong enough but looks like it was unsafe when it came from the factory, since the jack (or at least, MY jack) is poorly located there.
You have to use judgement and find safe jacking points that you, the operative at risk, are comfortable with. Speaking personally, these are seldom if ever those in the handbook.
I stand by my statement based on what I see in the picture. No offense to OP, but it appears he used his judgment and we're now aware of the situation he's in. Many a shade tree mechanic has had a jack slip and been injured or lost their life. I was only trying to be helpful to OP. You with your experience can put your jack stands wherever you please. One must be mindful of his audience.
I take your words kindly. It isnt a matter of the jacking points on this vehicle. There is absolutely nowhere else better than this spot on the GS300 if you want to jack up 2 wheels at once. It was more of a matter of technique i suppose.
Originally Posted By: lucas01230
I take your words kindly. It isnt a matter of the jacking points on this vehicle. There is absolutely nowhere else better than this spot on the GS300 if you want to jack up 2 wheels at once. It was more of a matter of technique i suppose.
Thank you for not taking offense, it was not my intention. I just wanted to point out that I hoped you did not get under the vehicle with only a jack supporting it. Be safe.
I take your words kindly. It isnt a matter of the jacking points on this vehicle. There is absolutely nowhere else better than this spot on the GS300 if you want to jack up 2 wheels at once. It was more of a matter of technique i suppose.
Thank you for not taking offense, it was not my intention. I just wanted to point out that I hoped you did not get under the vehicle with only a jack supporting it. Be safe.
Originally Posted By: TMoto
Originally Posted By: Ducked
Originally Posted By: TMoto
Always use jack stands set in the proper location for the vehicle!!
"proper location" is ambiguous, but I'd guess you mean the ones in the handbook, as specified by the manufacturer.
If so, I'd say "not necessarily"
On older vehicles these locations are quite often compromised by corrosion and can be unsafe.
On my current vehicle, the recommended location at the front is strong enough but looks like it was unsafe when it came from the factory, since the jack (or at least, MY jack) is poorly located there.
You have to use judgement and find safe jacking points that you, the operative at risk, are comfortable with. Speaking personally, these are seldom if ever those in the handbook.
I stand by my statement based on what I see in the picture. No offense to OP, but it appears he used his judgment and we're now aware of the situation he's in. Many a shade tree mechanic has had a jack slip and been injured or lost their life. I was only trying to be helpful to OP. You with your experience can put your jack stands wherever you please. One must be mindful of his audience.
I know what you mean, BUT I'd argue that following instructions without using judgement (because of the sense of security the instructions give) may be as dangerous as the risk of possibly using poor judgement on occaision.
I've dropped cars a time or two, an especial hazard when I had to work on granite "sets" (square cobblestones) in Edinburgh streets. Horribly slippery uneven things. I don't miss them at all.
Originally Posted By: Ducked
Originally Posted By: TMoto
Always use jack stands set in the proper location for the vehicle!!
"proper location" is ambiguous, but I'd guess you mean the ones in the handbook, as specified by the manufacturer.
If so, I'd say "not necessarily"
On older vehicles these locations are quite often compromised by corrosion and can be unsafe.
On my current vehicle, the recommended location at the front is strong enough but looks like it was unsafe when it came from the factory, since the jack (or at least, MY jack) is poorly located there.
You have to use judgement and find safe jacking points that you, the operative at risk, are comfortable with. Speaking personally, these are seldom if ever those in the handbook.
I stand by my statement based on what I see in the picture. No offense to OP, but it appears he used his judgment and we're now aware of the situation he's in. Many a shade tree mechanic has had a jack slip and been injured or lost their life. I was only trying to be helpful to OP. You with your experience can put your jack stands wherever you please. One must be mindful of his audience.
I know what you mean, BUT I'd argue that following instructions without using judgement (because of the sense of security the instructions give) may be as dangerous as the risk of possibly using poor judgement on occaision.
I've dropped cars a time or two, an especial hazard when I had to work on granite "sets" (square cobblestones) in Edinburgh streets. Horribly slippery uneven things. I don't miss them at all.
Originally Posted By: lucas01230
It isnt a matter of the jacking points on this vehicle. There is absolutely nowhere else better than this spot on the GS300 if you want to jack up 2 wheels at once. It was more of a matter of technique i suppose.
To the OP, I don't want to second-guess you, since I've got no experience of your vehicle, but the recommended front jacking point on my vehicle (central longitudinal engine mounting) is probably intended for jacking up two wheels at once, and it feels unsafe to me.
Come to think of it I THINK I only ever jack up one wheel at once. Isn't a rule, but it seems to have been what has felt safe.
It isnt a matter of the jacking points on this vehicle. There is absolutely nowhere else better than this spot on the GS300 if you want to jack up 2 wheels at once. It was more of a matter of technique i suppose.
To the OP, I don't want to second-guess you, since I've got no experience of your vehicle, but the recommended front jacking point on my vehicle (central longitudinal engine mounting) is probably intended for jacking up two wheels at once, and it feels unsafe to me.
Come to think of it I THINK I only ever jack up one wheel at once. Isn't a rule, but it seems to have been what has felt safe.
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Originally Posted By: lucas01230
Originally Posted By: Ducked
Originally Posted By: lucas01230
Originally Posted By: MarkM66
Originally Posted By: Ducked
Originally Posted By: lucas01230
Originally Posted By: MarkM66
Kira said:3) I've always employed boards (good 2X6's) to ease jacking with a toy jack.
Do you mean like a 2 piece 4x4 of 2x6 to put ontop of the jack?
I love wood, but in this application it may not be best for the job, because of all that beautiful grain and figuring, which can lead to sudden splitting under a point load.
A heavy bidirectional laminate array of biopolymer microtubules (plywood) is safer, but I have some stainless steel rubber-backed industrial floor tiles that I use for this sort of thing.
I was thinking the same, the wood would probably split. so maybe some bidirectional laminate array of bio polymer microtubules would work well.
I use a sheet of pressboard from an old computer desk under my trolley jack to keep it from sinking into my asphalt driveway...er, I mean a heavy omnidirectional array of biopolymer microtubules in an adhesive matrix with laminated melamine reinforcement!!!
;^)
Originally Posted By: Kira
Hey Ducked! I LOVE the industrial floor tiles you describe.
You must've gotten them for free since you're the guy who suggested that someone should use a cardboard box lined with "several, if necessary" garbage bags to do transmission drains.
Talk about risking a huge spill in order to save a couple of bucks...rhymes with ducks.
Of course. Skipload from the local railway station, though I only took a few. Railways are good sources of bits of steel etc.
For heavy plywood there's usually some shuttering ply lying about. Taiwanese are very into concrete.
Re the drain pan, the lined cardboard was the third option listed, and I've never found it necessary to use it for that, since an oil drain is seldom an emergency. I've used it several times for emergency typhoon water storage, with a single layer, and never leaked a drop. I'm reasonably confident it would work with oil, but it wouldn't be my first choice.
http://forumosa.com/taiwan/viewtopic.php...ankage#p1203229
I've been on here enough not to be really surprised by the local enthusiasm for buying unnecessary gear, such as all the brake bleeding clobber that seems to be considered essential.
Hey Ducked! I LOVE the industrial floor tiles you describe.
You must've gotten them for free since you're the guy who suggested that someone should use a cardboard box lined with "several, if necessary" garbage bags to do transmission drains.
Talk about risking a huge spill in order to save a couple of bucks...rhymes with ducks.
Of course. Skipload from the local railway station, though I only took a few. Railways are good sources of bits of steel etc.
For heavy plywood there's usually some shuttering ply lying about. Taiwanese are very into concrete.
Re the drain pan, the lined cardboard was the third option listed, and I've never found it necessary to use it for that, since an oil drain is seldom an emergency. I've used it several times for emergency typhoon water storage, with a single layer, and never leaked a drop. I'm reasonably confident it would work with oil, but it wouldn't be my first choice.
http://forumosa.com/taiwan/viewtopic.php...ankage#p1203229
I've been on here enough not to be really surprised by the local enthusiasm for buying unnecessary gear, such as all the brake bleeding clobber that seems to be considered essential.
Last edited:
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