How to find larger oil filters?

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Nick1994

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I'm looking to use a longer Fram Ultra on my Camry since once I switch to synthetic I want to do extended oil changes.

How do I search for them? I just don't know where to start. The filter for my car is an XG4967.

Here's my filter's specs:

ose4bc.jpg
 
If you can find a longer filter, why not? More media and a few ounces of oil for the same price.

I use an M1-209 Mobil 1 on my V8 4Runner which is much longer than stock, same bypass and other than length, identical, same price. What's not to like?
 
Largest I used was XG3600, works perfectly, no issues.

Others that worked as well biggest to smallest:
XG3600
XG3614
XG4386
XG4967
 
wixfilters.com has the specs for thread, bypass, and gasket diameter, as well as overall can size.

I'm running a 3614 on my 02 camry 4 cyl. (2azfe?) Had to scrub some grime off the mounting plate to have a smooth spot for the slightly larger gasket, but no leaks.
 
Originally Posted By: OneEyeJack
If you can find a longer filter, why not? More media and a few ounces of oil for the same price.


The debate over this will likely continue in perpetuity. Essentially, should you ever suffer an engine failure related to the oil filter, you'll have tremendous difficulty winning a claim against the filter manufacturer if you were using a filter that is not specified by that manufacturer for your application.

Furthermore, many will (successfully) argue that there is essentially no tangible benefit from using the larger filter.
 
For the 4cyl Camry you should use the xg4386, which is the right one for it anyway. You are using the short version 4967 for Yaris etc. I wouldn't use the wider v6 version 3614, there isn't much gain in media, and if Toyota wanted the 3614 on the 4 cyl it wouldn't have gone through the trouble of making the two distinct sizes. Since the car has the common 3/4-16 thread you could try forcing on quite a few types of large filters. The 4386 is perfect though I would say.
 
After cutting apart filters for the last 30 years, I've come to the conclusion that they generally don't need to be changed at all.

The flow rate is not restricted by the 2 or 3 microscopic specs of debris that have accumulated during double oil changes, without filter change. Yes, I do look at the element with my Nikon microscope.

While I don't have flow data, oil pressure is my only indication. Since my car shows oil pressure via the aftermarket ECU using high resolution sensors and a digital display. I get 80.4 PSI on startup every day, new oil or not, new filter or not.

Because the oil flow rate is not that high, one would really need a very clogged filter to affect pressure. And, at that point, an engine is not healthy.

Cut apart your last filter and see for yourself.
 
Good point about Fram not honoring their warranty if you used the wrong filter for a whole few ounces of oil and the car could care less. The only time I use the larger filter is if I don't want to waste oil and I want to fit an even 4qts in the crank case, in no way am I fooling myself into thinking it benefits the car, in fact I would say the opposite as the pump has to fill up a larger area than designed for, negligible , but still.
 
When Bitogers realize that the any oil filter is LESS restrictive than some of the oil passages built into the engine itself by super smart engineers, I will probably be old and senile.
 
In all my years of driving anything from a beat up Buick to a brand new Honds, from 1,000 miles to 300,000 miles, I have NEVER seen an oil filter that was even 10% "clogged", and a lot of these instances are on cars with very lax oil changes, 2001 Sentra 10K oci on Dino oil+ cheap purolator. oil filter looked almost brand new.
 
In the early '80s, GM specified a ~1/2-qt. filter for the 305 and 350 in passenger cars. Pickup trucks that had the exact same engines got a ~1-qt. filter. I've always figured it's a combination of A.) The engineers determined the smaller filter was adequate for cars and the conditions they normally were driven in and B.) 1/2 qt. less oil per car is a lot of oil and a lot of money when you're talking about tens or hundreds of thousands of units.

I've always used the full-quart filter on the El Camino, but not because I think I'm actually gaining anything. It comes down to practical reasons: It's a little easier to get hands on the bigger filter when changing it, and I like pouring 5 full quarts of oil into the engine, instead of carefully adding 1/2 a quart (4-qt. pan, so with filter it's either 4.5 or 5 qts. total).

In the context of this discussion, those probably seem like very silly reasons. I've never doubted that the smaller filter spec'ed for the car would do the job. I know I'm far from challenging the capacity of even the small filter, much less the larger one.
 
FWIW I'm running 3614s on my Camry because they're leftover from my saturn and neon. I also have some 3600s.
wink.gif


I'm an old [censored] and would buy the right size though, in a perfect world. But first am going to run down my stash.
 
Thanks for the help guys. I'll search through the Fram website with those part numbers and decide on a filter.

My car calls for 3.8 quarts of oil and I add 4 quarts, so I figure it can't hurt to have a larger filter.
 
Originally Posted By: Cujet

While I don't have flow data, oil pressure is my only indication. Since my car shows oil pressure via the aftermarket ECU using high resolution sensors and a digital display. I get 80.4 PSI on startup every day, new oil or not, new filter or not.

Because the oil flow rate is not that high, one would really need a very clogged filter to affect pressure. And, at that point, an engine is not healthy.


The oil flow rate isn't much a idle or low RPM, but zing that engine up to near redline and it can become significant depending on the motor.

I think it would be guesstimating on how dirty/clogged an oil filter really is by just looking at it.
 
Originally Posted By: Cujet
After cutting apart filters for the last 30 years, I've come to the conclusion that they generally don't need to be changed at all.

The flow rate is not restricted by the 2 or 3 microscopic specs of debris that have accumulated during double oil changes, without filter change. Yes, I do look at the element with my Nikon microscope.

While I don't have flow data, oil pressure is my only indication. Since my car shows oil pressure via the aftermarket ECU using high resolution sensors and a digital display. I get 80.4 PSI on startup every day, new oil or not, new filter or not.

Because the oil flow rate is not that high, one would really need a very clogged filter to affect pressure. And, at that point, an engine is not healthy.

Cut apart your last filter and see for yourself.



Originally Posted By: Cujet
After cutting apart filters for the last 30 years, I've come to the conclusion that they generally don't need to be changed at all.

The flow rate is not restricted by the 2 or 3 microscopic specs of debris that have accumulated during double oil changes, without filter change. Yes, I do look at the element with my Nikon microscope.

While I don't have flow data, oil pressure is my only indication. Since my car shows oil pressure via the aftermarket ECU using high resolution sensors and a digital display. I get 80.4 PSI on startup every day, new oil or not, new filter or not.

Because the oil flow rate is not that high, one would really need a very clogged filter to affect pressure. And, at that point, an engine is not healthy.

Cut apart your last filter and see for yourself.



I've been saying this about filters for years now here at bitog except I don't have microscope observations to prove my assertions.

On a clean engine there is hardly any particulate and it needs to agglomerate to be large enough to filter out. As filter pores trap particulate they effectively become more efficient which means those particles that once passed through the media are now able to be trapped,which in a real sense can reduce the wear associated with insols.
In 20000 mile intervals using tough guards on my engines I have yet to see one upon dissection that has been clogged to the point it creates a restriction which causes a by-pass event.
Now I'm only talking about engines that are known clean with no deposits bout up that may dissolve and excessively load up the media.
My experience and opinion is based on filter dissection.
It's why I laugh at those guys who pay extra for long life filters and long life oil and run rediculously short intervals. Exactly what have they convinced the,selves there is to gain. Paying more money for what. Some perceived sense of improvement. It's nonsense.
And when its explained to them they ignore the obvious and dig in their heels. If not here to learn about these topics and apply that knowledge why even be here.
I don't get it. If they already knew it all why bother
 
Originally Posted By: zach1900
In all my years of driving anything from a beat up Buick to a brand new Honds, from 1,000 miles to 300,000 miles, I have NEVER seen an oil filter that was even 10% "clogged", and a lot of these instances are on cars with very lax oil changes, 2001 Sentra 10K oci on Dino oil+ cheap purolator. oil filter looked almost brand new.


My point exactly.


It's easy to visibly see if a filter is clogged up. Is it covered in sludge or is the media pores still visible to the naked eye. How does the media feel against your fingers. Is there grit that can be felt. How much. Is it like a coupe grains of sand or lots.
Lots can be inferred by dissection.
 
My rationale was that since my car is part of Toyota's sludger years and I want to run 10,000 mile intervals.

If a Fram Ultra can hold up to it, then I'll use the stock size.
 
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