I do extended oil changes and used oil analysis so we might all learn something and I find it interesting.

This is the 7th UOA I've done on this vehicle.

This analysis is about WalMart Super Tech 5-30w full synthetic . The oil is 8 mths old, w/10,000 miles. The vehicle is a 07 Toyota FJ Cruiser w/a gasoline 4.0L engine that has 142k miles since new. I didn't dump/change anything when I took this sample. I always wait to see the UOA results. No make-up oil was added, because it doesn't use any. The vehicle is my daily driver. We live in the country, so it doesn't see much stop and go driving.

Many yrs ago I put a TopDog brand engine oil bypass filtration system on that utilizes the Amsoil EaBP90 filter. This filter was last changed at the start of this oil run. The air filter is an Amsoil EaA238(discontinued) element with 57k miles since new. I blew it out again at the start of this run Over the yrs, I've looked for induction system leaks and tried 3 different brand air filters elements in hope of reducing the Si/silicon level, all without success.

As I suspected SuperTechs additive package was used up after only 10k miles(low TBN). All the previous UOA I've done was on Amsoil oils. Amsoil additive package is more robust so it last longer, roughly 15k miles. I personally don't like a TBN# below 2.0

After looking over the following results I changed the oil to Mobil1 5-30w? I'll see how it holds up. Will it holdup as well as Amsoil? Will it holdup longer than ST? I changed the full flow filter with another Fram XG8A. I left the Amsoil EaBP90 bypass filter element in place for another run.

LAB: Oil Analyzers Inc - OAI(Polaris)
LAB COMMENTS: TBN # is below acceptable levels. Abrasives (silicon/dirt) is at a MINOR LEVEL. Change oil and oil filter.

Silicon 56.....70....43...32...33...37...38

That was interesting. Thanks for posting. I have the same 1GR-FE engine as you and was wondering how SuperTech Synthetic would do. I also use 10,000 mile OCI because it's easy to just reset the oil change light once at 5000 and change it the next time around. Looks like you got every bit of use you could safely get out of that oil.
One question though. I'm assuming the ST results is the column on the right. Is that correct?

Yes the ST is on the right.
Oldest on left, to newest on right

I would try Blackstone. I am not believing the numbers for Ca., Boron and Sodium.

http://www.pqiamerica.com/March2013PCMO/supertech.htm

I would trust it over 2 1/2 year old data.

Oil looks good for a "budget" syn, no excessive viscosity thickening(as seen in some amsoil UAOA), reasonable OXIDATION# ..
But,
Where the Boron in the analysis? STS uses no moly and a load of boron?

Supertech has different blenders, like a box of chocolates, you never know what you're gonna get.

Supertech full synth should be fine for any OE recommended interval. This UOA isn't bad but expected more with the larger oil capacity(XG8a + EABP90).

I'd want to go 15k, 20k, or more with a bypass setup. TBN just isn't there with supertech. What are the mileages on the previous runs? How often do you change the EABP?

You need particle counts to see how well that bypass is working.

Air filtration? try a Volant intake with the Donaldson Powercore filter and Volant prefilter.

How dark is oil after the 10k run?
Do you drain the EABP90 after a run?

AFAIK only WPP blends the synthetic in the USA.

Thank you for posting up the second most interesting UOA I've seen on this site.

Second only to the one with 30k and microgreen filters.

Supertech is blended by Mobil, Citgo, Warren, and whoever is a lowest bidder for the area of a contract. Just verify the bottle to see the supplier.

This is the Citgo variety of ST. Good oil.

Go back to the stock air filter.... but go with a quality brand (not Toyota). Your silicon levels will drop dramatically, because paper filters stop dirt better than oiled foam
.

I've always had exceptionally low Si levels with OE Toyota air filters. Not sure what the basis for not recommending a Toyota OE filter here is.

I would like to see the reasoning why people believe there is multiple suppliers for Super Tech. I can only find one API license for Super Tech.

Silicon is too high. Buy a new Toyota air filter every 2 years or 15,000 miles.

I have seen various tests that show Toyota/Honda air filters allow a lot of dirt to pass (25-50% at 20u). Name-brand filters (if they are paper) only allow 1-5% to passthru filtration levels. I have AC Delco on my Honda and the Si level is almost zero.
In any case, stay away from the oiled foam.
They don't do well at all.

Walmart uses different suppliers for their Super Tech products based on bids. If you search the UPC of the product it will reveal the MSDS of the current provider(s): http://msds.walmartstores.com You can't simply search by name, because it lists old suppliers. Has to be UPC to list current supplier(s).

The last time I searched the Super Tech Syn oil UPC it revealed 2 providers, probably distributed by region. One was Warren Distribution and the other was Citgo.

So, Honda and Toyota make good quality cars and trucks but provide low quality oil and air filters for them? Yup, that makes a LOT of sense to me. I hear Yugo filters are GREAT.
BTW 2000 miles ago I changed my Gen 4, I4 Camry oil to the WPP version of Supertech 5 w 30 synthetic....the engine has 215,000 miles on it and hasn't burned a drop that I can see.

I have no evidence that different suppliers supply different weights of SuperTech Synthetic, but I have confirmed in the past with VOAs that SuperTech 5w30 Synthetic is identical to Accel Synthetic 5w30 which is made by WPP. The oil may also be identical or similar to Mag1 made by WPP. It is widely believed here that WPP provides all Supertech Synthetic and it is only the conventional Supertech that is spread among multiple suppliers (as evidenced by different bottles in different parts of the country).

https://pqiablog.com/2015-motor-oil-samples-tested/

If you compare 5w30 Supertech Synthetic with Accel 5w30 Synthetic they are identical products.

You've seen tests on Honda and Toyota air filters? Where?

Honda and Toyota have had major recalls (or lawsuits) about various engines (and also transmissions in Honda's case). They are not perfect. Anyway I don't think it's worth debating. If the OP is using an "oiled foam" filter then he will see the silicon/dirt levels drop by switching back to a paper filter, like Toyota originally supplied with the car.

@GMFan,

Again, go to Wal-Mart, take the UPC off the bottle, go to the website, plug it in, click submit and you'll get the suppliers listed on the MSDS(s). http://msds.walmartstores.com That's your evidence. It doesn't get any clearer. Then you have to figure out which supplier services your area. In my area it's Citgo. Searching by name doesn't provide sufficient answers because it brings up MSDS's from previous inactive suppliers. The UPC off the bottle on the shelf reveals current supplier information.

You can do the same for ST brake fluid, transmission fluid, etc.

There could also just be a rip in your intake somewhere or maybe a vacuum leak somewhere that's sucking in dust.

I think you got your moneys worth out of the SuperTech Synthetic. Just the margins are low for people who run it way past 10K it would seem but I really do not fault it for that.

The Accel and Supertech 5W30s on that page do look quite similar by the VOAs, but they appear to be conventional oils. The Accel is not labelled either way, but the Supertech says conventional on the bottle.
Am I missing something?

IMO tbn numbers don't mean much. I've had Blackstone recommend I go further when the tbn was already down to 1.0. Just a couple of days ago there was a post here on BTOG about how unreliable tbn tests were. I look more at the wear numbers and the viscocity. I'd take this oil out another 2,000 miles without concern.

Blackstone are the only people who make that kind of recommendation. PQIA feel that oil should be changed when TBN is 3 and all other oil labs are in that same range.



I agree that viscosity is important because rising viscosity means the oil is oxidizing. Remember that the oil shears first before it thickens. In this case, a KV100c of 10.2 is not because Supertech is shear stable, it is probably because it is now thickening after shearing.



At this point in an extended oci, another 2000 miles is the kind of interval where an oil can rapidly degrade. I wouldn't say it's definite, not even likely to cause any problems. But I'd want to avoid any chance of deposits forming and agree with the OP about changing it out.