Proof of LC performance

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quote:

Originally posted by XB70:

I, too, had burnt varnish on my dipstick, and it wouldn't budge when given the vigorous thumbnail scratch test.


I can't help it, and I know I'll rot in ****, but that line just reads funny
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Scott
 
After innocently writing that line, the thought crossed my mind just how that might be perceived. Then the mental gymnastics went from leave it alone and see if any comments are made, to use the
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, to...
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Note: In my previous post I mistakenly typed that the burnt varnish was able to be removed near the end of the first ARX clean phase; that should've been rinse phase.
 
quote:

Originally posted by JAG:
SNIP

That LC Report linked above sure gives some good info. But the viscosity of LC at 100C is 9.5 cSt and unfortunately that does thin out oils that have a higher viscosity than LC. I think that users of those oils should consider compensating for that by substituting some of their oil with a thicker grade of the same brand.


Where did you get 9.5 CST for LC at 100C?
The last two VOA I saw on it had it at 42-45 SUS, which isn't even up in 20-weight. 9.5 CST is in thin 30-weight territory.

http://theoildrop.server101.com/cgi/ultimatebb.cgi?ubb=get_topic;f=11;t=000231#000000

http://theoildrop.server101.com/ubb/ultimatebb.php?ubb=get_topic;f=11;t=000235#000000
 
And also note the very low flashpoints listed in the Blackstone samples compared to what's listed in the MSDS.

So is the Blackstone sample data faulty or has LC20 changed or is (or was) LC20 really a 10wt with a low flashpoint?
 
All I know is the it works and very well. My cars run smooth and even smoother with FP. But toss in the LC, unreal...
 
Pablo-

Yes it does run smoother. I am not a chemist only an engineer so bare with me.

This is a hard one; but, the only way I can describe it is like “engine oil on glass; then you put something heavy on the glass/fluid and move it”.

It is also much quieter at idle. I am not saying LC is the best in the world here, but so far I am very happy with it and it’s more then I expected.

Most noticeable effects (quieter, smoother, etc) it is the best product I have used to date
(engine oil wise).
 
Was the mower always run on M1 from new?
How often was it changed?
How much has the engine been running?
Without that info, to me, it's not clear that M1 sux.

Scott
 
quote:

I would like to see proof as well (not only of LC but FP60, Auto-RX, etc)...

Short of doing this on 20 cars, it could be done on one. I’d like to see the before and after oil analysis, pictures, compression, etc, on that car. Ideally, all the tests would be done by an independent shop and not by LCD...

That's been done, kang, at least for Auto-RX. Since you're OK with it being done on just one car, look for my before and after thread on my older Subaru.
 
1 year 1999, ran the stock mineral that came with the mower.
Since 2000 ran Mobil 1 until this change.
The mower runs 45-55mins every three weeks
The grade was 10w-30 so this is not the grade designed for air cooled engines.
I expected some build up ad air cooled engines heat up more that water cooled engines.
The oil looked clean with a bit of tanning, but as I described turned pitch black within two to three runs.
I an not saying that Mobil1 is bad, I expected buildup in the engine due to the lower grade used and LC did precisely that.
Since my change I ran the mower 2x 55 minutes and the oil is still nice and yellow. Maybe some day when the thing dies I will be able to post pics of the internals.


Why buy a 10W40 or a 20W50 when I can use a 10w30 and throw in some LC. Mower starts much easier (probably freed up the rings), and runs stronger + quieter. The sump of this engine was too small to use AUTO-RX so but perfect for LC.
 
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