of interest, perhaps, to those using or interested in using mos2:
http://www.theparsecgroup.com/experts.htm
http://www.theparsecgroup.com/experts.htm
mos2 technical reviews
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MoS2, molybdenum disulfide is found in all energy-conserving oils for those reasons listed in your link.
Originally Posted By: dtt004
MoS2, molybdenum disulfide is found in all energy-conserving oils for those reasons listed in your link.
I could be wrong, but I don't think this is correct. Most oils that show moly in them is from a soluble moly, not MoS2 moly. There is a difference.
MoS2, molybdenum disulfide is found in all energy-conserving oils for those reasons listed in your link.
I could be wrong, but I don't think this is correct. Most oils that show moly in them is from a soluble moly, not MoS2 moly. There is a difference.
johnny, does the soluble moly do the same thing? like the moly in red line?
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Johnny,
I'm fairly confident that you know that you are correct. MoS2 and molybdenum dithiocarbamates are considered equal too often here.
I'm fairly confident that you know that you are correct. MoS2 and molybdenum dithiocarbamates are considered equal too often here.
I thought this was an interesting read, albeit Wiki, any useful information?
http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Extreme_pressure_additive
http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Extreme_pressure_additive
Originally Posted By: boxcartommie22
johnny, does the soluble moly do the same thing? like the moly in red line?
I don't think the soluble moly is known for plating like MoS2 is. It is a good friction modifier but most of it drains out when the oil is changed.
johnny, does the soluble moly do the same thing? like the moly in red line?
I don't think the soluble moly is known for plating like MoS2 is. It is a good friction modifier but most of it drains out when the oil is changed.
If a car is rarely used, the over the counter types of moly are potentially problematic.
For the simple reason that they may indeed settle out.
But for a car driven anywhere near normally, I would not be concerned.
So why don't oil mfrs use this type of moly? Simple. It sure can settle out. Who knows how long the oil bottle or car is stored?
Just one more thing - I DO use Lubro Moly and have no worries at all.
For the simple reason that they may indeed settle out.
But for a car driven anywhere near normally, I would not be concerned.
So why don't oil mfrs use this type of moly? Simple. It sure can settle out. Who knows how long the oil bottle or car is stored?
Just one more thing - I DO use Lubro Moly and have no worries at all.
mechtech2 brings up a good point. I've used MoS2 in a vehicle that sits longer than I'd like it too since business has slowed down. Even after 2 weeks sitting I could still see the silvery color on the dipstick. It does settle out a bit, but as soon as you fire up the engine it goes back into suspension. I'm currently using Biotech Engine Protectant which is loaded with soluble moly.
Originally Posted By: demarpaint
I'm currently using Biotech Engine Protectant which is loaded with soluble moly.
I was looking at their website, and it doesn't say anything about "soluble moly" your not the only one to say this, but I don't see where this information is in print.
I'm currently using Biotech Engine Protectant which is loaded with soluble moly.
I was looking at their website, and it doesn't say anything about "soluble moly" your not the only one to say this, but I don't see where this information is in print.
Originally Posted By: FMC
Originally Posted By: demarpaint
I'm currently using Biotech Engine Protectant which is loaded with soluble moly.
I was looking at their website, and it doesn't say anything about "soluble moly" your not the only one to say this, but I don't see where this information is in print.
I learned about the product a long time ago. I read about the soluble moly here as well, but took it one step further and actually called and asked to confirm. They use Soluble Moly, no ZDDP, Teflon, or MoS2. HTH
Originally Posted By: demarpaint
I'm currently using Biotech Engine Protectant which is loaded with soluble moly.
I was looking at their website, and it doesn't say anything about "soluble moly" your not the only one to say this, but I don't see where this information is in print.
I learned about the product a long time ago. I read about the soluble moly here as well, but took it one step further and actually called and asked to confirm. They use Soluble Moly, no ZDDP, Teflon, or MoS2. HTH
Originally Posted By: mikered30
So what is better, MoS2 or Soluble Moly?
You'll get lots of opinions, and then probably some bashing, so here goes. The oil companies use soluble moly, although many are getting away from it because of cost, and cheaper alternatives. If the cheaper alternatives are better is another hot topic with lots of opinions.
IMO both moly products are good. MoS2 seems to plate and stay around for a few OCIs, but it does settle out. The settling would probably cause the oil companies a lot of hassle with people complaining if they hoard oil and see the moly settled out. MoS2 also has a distinct silver metallic color.
Here's a funny story, my neighbor was here over this past winter when I was checking my snow blower just after our first storm. I checked the oil and he saw the oil on the stick was silver, and told me my engine was shot. We had a good laugh it was the silver moly he saw on the dipstick. Soluble moly stays in suspension and is gone when the oil is changed, and doesn't have a metallic look. I use both products.
So what is better, MoS2 or Soluble Moly?
You'll get lots of opinions, and then probably some bashing, so here goes. The oil companies use soluble moly, although many are getting away from it because of cost, and cheaper alternatives. If the cheaper alternatives are better is another hot topic with lots of opinions.
IMO both moly products are good. MoS2 seems to plate and stay around for a few OCIs, but it does settle out. The settling would probably cause the oil companies a lot of hassle with people complaining if they hoard oil and see the moly settled out. MoS2 also has a distinct silver metallic color.
Here's a funny story, my neighbor was here over this past winter when I was checking my snow blower just after our first storm. I checked the oil and he saw the oil on the stick was silver, and told me my engine was shot. We had a good laugh it was the silver moly he saw on the dipstick. Soluble moly stays in suspension and is gone when the oil is changed, and doesn't have a metallic look. I use both products.
Not sure if I'm going ahead with MoS2 or Lubegard's product, but I like what I've been hearing about both products and it didn't hurt when I added MoS2 to my Stratus before selling it. Not sure of actual gains later, though. I may still try it or the LG for experiments in the Civic. We'll see.
Regarding the settling of MOS2 I'm a bit unclear. The solid particles are held in suspension within the bottle ie. no shaking is recommended or necessary prior to adding it to the motor oil. So, no settling occurs in the bottle itself. This is true in my own experience of the product; it was uniform in consistency and color coming out of the bottle. Is the suggestion that the mineral based suspension itself will separate from the motor oil if the engine is left unused for long periods of time? The fact that you can still see it along the dipstick, and not just at the very tip of it, would suggest that it is fully miscible, no?
Let me clear it up a bit. Some MoS2 does settle out, a very little, and it takes a long time. I've been using it for a while now and found the majority of it stays in suspension. Any of it that falls out of suspension gets mixed up as soon as the engine fires up. The product works very well, and has stopped my Briggs mower from smoking on start up completely. I believe this is now the third season I'm using it. I like the idea that MoS2 "plates" to metal surfaces.
Originally Posted By: k24a4
Regarding the settling of MOS2 I'm a bit unclear. The solid particles are held in suspension within the bottle ie. no shaking is recommended or necessary prior to adding it to the motor oil. So, no settling occurs in the bottle itself. This is true in my own experience of the product; it was uniform in consistency and color coming out of the bottle.
I don't think it really means anything that settling occurs or not in the bottle; the bottle is not subjected to the prolonged engine operating temperatures that mos2 is. In the longer threads on it there was discussion that it seemed to take anywhere up to a few hundred miles or so, for the plating effect to occur. It then seems to "linger" in the engine, or much of it does, after the oil is changed, and some use it every other OCI for this reason.
I only noticed the silvery color the first time I used it, and that was just for a little while after I put it in. After that, within a thousand miles, the oil was "dirty brown" again. I skipped it the following OCI, added it the next one (this OCI), and didn't notice the color change this time (whatever that means).
FWIW I've only tried it twice, half a bottle to a 4 quart sump at the beginning of the OCI. Maybe the silver tint on the dipstick depends on the ratio added.
-Spyder
Regarding the settling of MOS2 I'm a bit unclear. The solid particles are held in suspension within the bottle ie. no shaking is recommended or necessary prior to adding it to the motor oil. So, no settling occurs in the bottle itself. This is true in my own experience of the product; it was uniform in consistency and color coming out of the bottle.
I don't think it really means anything that settling occurs or not in the bottle; the bottle is not subjected to the prolonged engine operating temperatures that mos2 is. In the longer threads on it there was discussion that it seemed to take anywhere up to a few hundred miles or so, for the plating effect to occur. It then seems to "linger" in the engine, or much of it does, after the oil is changed, and some use it every other OCI for this reason.
I only noticed the silvery color the first time I used it, and that was just for a little while after I put it in. After that, within a thousand miles, the oil was "dirty brown" again. I skipped it the following OCI, added it the next one (this OCI), and didn't notice the color change this time (whatever that means).
FWIW I've only tried it twice, half a bottle to a 4 quart sump at the beginning of the OCI. Maybe the silver tint on the dipstick depends on the ratio added.
-Spyder
Originally Posted By: Spyder7
Originally Posted By: k24a4
Regarding the settling of MOS2 I'm a bit unclear. The solid particles are held in suspension within the bottle ie. no shaking is recommended or necessary prior to adding it to the motor oil. So, no settling occurs in the bottle itself. This is true in my own experience of the product; it was uniform in consistency and color coming out of the bottle.
I don't think it really means anything that settling occurs or not in the bottle; the bottle is not subjected to the prolonged engine operating temperatures that mos2 is. In the longer threads on it there was discussion that it seemed to take anywhere up to a few hundred miles or so, for the plating effect to occur. It then seems to "linger" in the engine, or much of it does, after the oil is changed, and some use it every other OCI for this reason.
I only noticed the silvery color the first time I used it, and that was just for a little while after I put it in. After that, within a thousand miles, the oil was "dirty brown" again. I skipped it the following OCI, added it the next one (this OCI), and didn't notice the color change this time (whatever that means).
FWIW I've only tried it twice, half a bottle to a 4 quart sump at the beginning of the OCI. Maybe the silver tint on the dipstick depends on the ratio added.
-Spyder
IIRC it was the people at Rosemill Industries producers of MoS2 that told me MoS2 was a great additive in oil, however it never took off with oil companies because it does eventually settle out of the oil. Tungsten Disulfide is also very good in oil but settles out very quickly, and is more expensive. The settling is not a problem because as I mentioned above as soon as you start the car it goes back into suspension and is circulated in the engine. It takes about 500 miles to "plate" the engine, so as it is deposited you'll notice less on the dipstick, and as the oil becomes dirty with use you'll hardly see it. Depending on sump size you can also notice more of a silvery color on the dipstick. My 4.5 qt Aerostar's dipstick shows more silver color than my 6 qt E-150 sump both using a full bottle.
Originally Posted By: k24a4
Regarding the settling of MOS2 I'm a bit unclear. The solid particles are held in suspension within the bottle ie. no shaking is recommended or necessary prior to adding it to the motor oil. So, no settling occurs in the bottle itself. This is true in my own experience of the product; it was uniform in consistency and color coming out of the bottle.
I don't think it really means anything that settling occurs or not in the bottle; the bottle is not subjected to the prolonged engine operating temperatures that mos2 is. In the longer threads on it there was discussion that it seemed to take anywhere up to a few hundred miles or so, for the plating effect to occur. It then seems to "linger" in the engine, or much of it does, after the oil is changed, and some use it every other OCI for this reason.
I only noticed the silvery color the first time I used it, and that was just for a little while after I put it in. After that, within a thousand miles, the oil was "dirty brown" again. I skipped it the following OCI, added it the next one (this OCI), and didn't notice the color change this time (whatever that means).
FWIW I've only tried it twice, half a bottle to a 4 quart sump at the beginning of the OCI. Maybe the silver tint on the dipstick depends on the ratio added.
-Spyder
IIRC it was the people at Rosemill Industries producers of MoS2 that told me MoS2 was a great additive in oil, however it never took off with oil companies because it does eventually settle out of the oil. Tungsten Disulfide is also very good in oil but settles out very quickly, and is more expensive. The settling is not a problem because as I mentioned above as soon as you start the car it goes back into suspension and is circulated in the engine. It takes about 500 miles to "plate" the engine, so as it is deposited you'll notice less on the dipstick, and as the oil becomes dirty with use you'll hardly see it. Depending on sump size you can also notice more of a silvery color on the dipstick. My 4.5 qt Aerostar's dipstick shows more silver color than my 6 qt E-150 sump both using a full bottle.
I note that the Product in the Lubro Moly bottles certainly is not uniform.
It is STRONGLY concentrated, and some can settle to a muck on the bottom.
This is because of long indeterminate shelf time, and being way overloaded in suspension.
I shake and stir it, and pour it in. Then, I use the engine oil to 1/2 fill it, shake it, and put in the engine. I get as much as I can out of the bottle this way.
But once again, this is a very heavy concentration, NOT what happens in an engine.
It is STRONGLY concentrated, and some can settle to a muck on the bottom.
This is because of long indeterminate shelf time, and being way overloaded in suspension.
I shake and stir it, and pour it in. Then, I use the engine oil to 1/2 fill it, shake it, and put in the engine. I get as much as I can out of the bottle this way.
But once again, this is a very heavy concentration, NOT what happens in an engine.
Originally Posted By: mechtech2
I note that the Product in the Lubro Moly bottles certainly is not uniform.
It is STRONGLY concentrated, and some can settle to a muck on the bottom.
This is because of long indeterminate shelf time, and being way overloaded in suspension.
I shake and stir it, and pour it in. Then, I use the engine oil to 1/2 fill it, shake it, and put in the engine. I get as much as I can out of the bottle this way.
But once again, this is a very heavy concentration, NOT what happens in an engine.
I don't have MOS2 but VSOT is similar thickness and I do the same way with your method.
When I do oil change I save the last 1/2 quarts oil in 2 bottles, I pour the VSOT in 1 bottle with 1/4 quarts oil, I pour 1/4 quarts oil in the second bottle into the VSOT bottle, shake it well then pour it into the first bottle with oil and VSOT. Shake this bottle well then pour into the engine then drive few miles so that VSOT is mixed well with engine oil. This way I get most of thick VSOT out of its bottle into the engine.
I like to try MOS2 but I still have 6-7 bottles VSOT, I need to use all of it first before trying MOS2.
I note that the Product in the Lubro Moly bottles certainly is not uniform.
It is STRONGLY concentrated, and some can settle to a muck on the bottom.
This is because of long indeterminate shelf time, and being way overloaded in suspension.
I shake and stir it, and pour it in. Then, I use the engine oil to 1/2 fill it, shake it, and put in the engine. I get as much as I can out of the bottle this way.
But once again, this is a very heavy concentration, NOT what happens in an engine.
I don't have MOS2 but VSOT is similar thickness and I do the same way with your method.
When I do oil change I save the last 1/2 quarts oil in 2 bottles, I pour the VSOT in 1 bottle with 1/4 quarts oil, I pour 1/4 quarts oil in the second bottle into the VSOT bottle, shake it well then pour it into the first bottle with oil and VSOT. Shake this bottle well then pour into the engine then drive few miles so that VSOT is mixed well with engine oil. This way I get most of thick VSOT out of its bottle into the engine.
I like to try MOS2 but I still have 6-7 bottles VSOT, I need to use all of it first before trying MOS2.
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