M1 0w30 in a VW 2.5L
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I think he did mean 130 mph (autobahn).
JHZR2
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Originally Posted By: Audi Junkie
Euro specs are for Euro driving.
Not so sure that is 100% the case... there are cleanliness, viscosity retention, and other specs to it as well.
How much do they differ from API SM, and ILSAC GF-4, as examples? maybe not much... however euro specs that DO focus on utilizing ACEA A3 are generally more robust, and there is data showing wear rates vs HT/HS viscosities...
A good VW tech I have talked with has mentioned that there is a significantly higher amount of varnishing on engines (2.5L included) running on conventional vs. syn. is this a no brainer? maybe... but the combination of all aspects may point to the necessity of the euro specs for the engines. Their designs may be different than other engines, and if this is the case, there may be need for augmentation of our "standards" whether the engines are "exercised" or not...
Euro specs are for Euro driving.
Not so sure that is 100% the case... there are cleanliness, viscosity retention, and other specs to it as well.
How much do they differ from API SM, and ILSAC GF-4, as examples? maybe not much... however euro specs that DO focus on utilizing ACEA A3 are generally more robust, and there is data showing wear rates vs HT/HS viscosities...
A good VW tech I have talked with has mentioned that there is a significantly higher amount of varnishing on engines (2.5L included) running on conventional vs. syn. is this a no brainer? maybe... but the combination of all aspects may point to the necessity of the euro specs for the engines. Their designs may be different than other engines, and if this is the case, there may be need for augmentation of our "standards" whether the engines are "exercised" or not...
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JHZR2 brings up a excellent point. For comparison, go to the Lubrizol link that shows the areas of coverage addressed by the different oil specs. VW's 504/507 oil covers a much greater area of the graph while API SM pales in comparison.
It's for this reason that I try to stick with OEM specs or with products I know meet or exceed the OEM's requirements.
If the 2.5 liter I-5 Rabbit wants 502.00 then that's what I'd give it. There truly is a great difference.
http://sas-origin.onstreammedia.com/origin/lubrizol/EOACEA2009/RP/PC/index.html
It's for this reason that I try to stick with OEM specs or with products I know meet or exceed the OEM's requirements.
If the 2.5 liter I-5 Rabbit wants 502.00 then that's what I'd give it. There truly is a great difference.
http://sas-origin.onstreammedia.com/origin/lubrizol/EOACEA2009/RP/PC/index.html
Originally Posted By: Thorzdad
You should be using a 502 oil in the recommended weight for your engine. 0w30 isn't recommended, GC or not.
Which VW documentation states that? I don't believe the owner's manual specifically insists on using 5w-40.
You should be using a 502 oil in the recommended weight for your engine. 0w30 isn't recommended, GC or not.
Which VW documentation states that? I don't believe the owner's manual specifically insists on using 5w-40.
Originally Posted By: jhenle
Precisely. The manual says VW 502.00. It doesn't say anywhere "nothing but 5W-40."
My '00 VW GTI manual specifically states that 5w40 oil meeting VW 502.00 is to be used, unless it is not available. In that case, the manual states that 5w30 can be used, so long as it meets VW 502.00.
There is some fine print at the bottom of the page that states that if neither 5w40 nor 5w30 is available, to use an oil of the proper viscosity for the climate in which the vehicle is to be operated, and that said oil should meet VW 502.00.
I use "Q" HP 10w30, which doesn't meet any VW spec.
Precisely. The manual says VW 502.00. It doesn't say anywhere "nothing but 5W-40."
My '00 VW GTI manual specifically states that 5w40 oil meeting VW 502.00 is to be used, unless it is not available. In that case, the manual states that 5w30 can be used, so long as it meets VW 502.00.
There is some fine print at the bottom of the page that states that if neither 5w40 nor 5w30 is available, to use an oil of the proper viscosity for the climate in which the vehicle is to be operated, and that said oil should meet VW 502.00.
I use "Q" HP 10w30, which doesn't meet any VW spec.
Currently using M1 0w30 in my GF's 04 BEV 2.0 Golf...im eagerly awaiting the UOA on it to see how it does.
Originally Posted By: wavinwayne
Originally Posted By: jhenle
Precisely. The manual says VW 502.00. It doesn't say anywhere "nothing but 5W-40."
My '00 VW GTI manual specifically states that 5w40 oil meeting VW 502.00 is to be used, unless it is not available. In that case, the manual states that 5w30 can be used, so long as it meets VW 502.00.
There is some fine print at the bottom of the page that states that if neither 5w40 nor 5w30 is available, to use an oil of the proper viscosity for the climate in which the vehicle is to be operated, and that said oil should meet VW 502.00.
Just because a 10-year-old owners manual refers to an obsolete specification, or fails to state that synthetic oil is required or at least strongly recommended, is no reason not to use the best currently-available oil that is suitable.
And for those whose engines are still under warranty, that goes double. Use a 504.00/507.00 rated oil instead of a 502.00, because it's better. A couple dollars every 5k or 10k miles is cheaper than a replacement engine, when the original one should have lasted much longer.
Personally, I would not use GC 0w30 or M1 0w40. There are better oils out there.
Originally Posted By: jhenle
Precisely. The manual says VW 502.00. It doesn't say anywhere "nothing but 5W-40."
My '00 VW GTI manual specifically states that 5w40 oil meeting VW 502.00 is to be used, unless it is not available. In that case, the manual states that 5w30 can be used, so long as it meets VW 502.00.
There is some fine print at the bottom of the page that states that if neither 5w40 nor 5w30 is available, to use an oil of the proper viscosity for the climate in which the vehicle is to be operated, and that said oil should meet VW 502.00.
Just because a 10-year-old owners manual refers to an obsolete specification, or fails to state that synthetic oil is required or at least strongly recommended, is no reason not to use the best currently-available oil that is suitable.
And for those whose engines are still under warranty, that goes double. Use a 504.00/507.00 rated oil instead of a 502.00, because it's better. A couple dollars every 5k or 10k miles is cheaper than a replacement engine, when the original one should have lasted much longer.
Personally, I would not use GC 0w30 or M1 0w40. There are better oils out there.
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