Stress A/C system?

[astraelraen]

This is going to sound terribly dishonest... but its not! Short background.

New car's A/C sucks (1.5 years old ~8900 miles on it). I've brought it into the dealer a few times... they always find nothing wrong with it. The A/C performance is marginal at best. I can hop in my wife's Legacy under any of the exact same conditions and it will freeze my butt off.

From what I've gathered on the internet there might be a problem with the compressor. Failures are starting to crop up in the early 2007 model years in vehicles with as low as 20k miles. The people who have had their A/C fail and then replaced all have reported the performance is way better once the new compressor is put in. Some say that there is a new part # for a revised compressor, but I cannot confirm this.

I'm afraid that because I drive so few miles (I doubt that will break 15k by the time the 3 year bumper-to-bumper is up) that IF my A/C is defective and fails then I'm going to end up with a huge repair bill early in the life of this car.

Is there anything you can do to an A/C system besides running it constantly to try to stress the system? I'm not trying to sabotage my car... but if its going to fail because of a defect. I want it to do it before 3 years lol.

 

[duaneb9729]

Does your state have a lemon law?

perhaps, depending on the number of times you have brought it in, you could strongly suggest the replace the compressor.

 

[demarpaint]

I would continue to go back and complain. Running the A/C system if it is properly charged is not going to stress it. If you can find the same car on the lot in the same color and run the A/C measure the temperature at the vent. Then see if it is putting out the same temps as yours is, under the same conditions. The output under the same conditions should be pretty close. If it isn't then you have a problem.

I've tested my two vans side by side, one dark blue the other black. I was able to tell which one needed a shot of Freon before putting the gauges on. Funny thing the was the compressor wasn't short cycling indicating the charge was low.

 

[xxch4osxx]

I would look into using Duracool refrigerant, it is organic and far easier on the a/c system than R134a. R134a produces very high operating pressures causing premature compressor failures. I evacuated my a/c system in my 2004 Silverado and recharged it with Duracool refrigerant and noticed a dramatic difference. The compressor operated alot quieter and it blows just as cold as when it had R134a. Best of all, you do not need a license to use Duracool as it does not harm the ozone layer.

 

[XS650]

Originally Posted By: xxch4osxx
I would look into using Duracool refrigerant, it is organic and far easier on the a/c system than R134a. R134a produces very high operating pressures causing premature compressor failures. I evacuated my a/c system in my 2004 Silverado and recharged it with Duracool refrigerant and noticed a dramatic difference. The compressor operated alot quieter and it blows just as cold as when it had R134a. Best of all, you do not need a license to use Duracool as it does not harm the ozone layer.


Some people may choose to not have a highly flammable refrigerant under pressure in the passenger compartment of their car.

 

[CharlieJ]

What vehicle do you have?

 

[EXPLORER]

It is really hard for me to understand that kind of a statement. As i am a Duracool user in my daily driver, yes it is a beater, but as i most always am carrying 10 to 16 gallons of gasoline in the gas tank in the event of a collision i feel that i'll just be toast anyhow.

Be Well

 

[xxch4osxx]

Originally Posted By: XS650
Originally Posted By: xxch4osxx
I would look into using Duracool refrigerant, it is organic and far easier on the a/c system than R134a. R134a produces very high operating pressures causing premature compressor failures. I evacuated my a/c system in my 2004 Silverado and recharged it with Duracool refrigerant and noticed a dramatic difference. The compressor operated alot quieter and it blows just as cold as when it had R134a. Best of all, you do not need a license to use Duracool as it does not harm the ozone layer.


Some people may choose to not have a highly flammable refrigerant under pressure in the passenger compartment of their car.
Duracool's flashpoint is actually higher than R134a.

 

[demarpaint]

The OP's car is still under warranty, why mess with a different Refrigerant? That will surely void the warranty.

 

[XS650]

Originally Posted By: xxch4osxx
Duracool's flashpoint is actually higher than R134a.


R-134A is not flammable at ambient temperatures and atmospheric pressure.

 

[xxch4osxx]

Originally Posted By: demarpaint
The OP's car is still under warranty, why mess with a different Refrigerant? That will surely void the warranty.
Using Duracool will not void the warranty.

 

[xxch4osxx]

Originally Posted By: XS650
Originally Posted By: xxch4osxx
Duracool's flashpoint is actually higher than R134a.


R-134A is not flammable at ambient temperatures and atmospheric pressure.
Auto ignition of Duracool is 1635F whereas R134a's auto ignition point is 1328F and no, I do not sell Duracool, I am a happy customer of Duracool. I am getting the info from their website.

 

[XS650]

Originally Posted By: xxch4osxx
Originally Posted By: XS650
Originally Posted By: xxch4osxx
Duracool's flashpoint is actually higher than R134a.


R-134A is not flammable at ambient temperatures and atmospheric pressure.
Auto ignition of Duracool is 1635F whereas R134a's auto ignition point is 1328F and no, I do not sell Duracool, I am a happy customer of Duracool. I am getting the info from their website.


You said flash point, not auto ignition. Autoignition isn't much of an issue an issue for either.

R134a isn't flammable under normal conditions at atmospheric pressure. Duracool is highly flammable at atmospheric pressure. Read their MSDS sheets.

 

[demarpaint]

A chance I'd rather not take with an expensive A/C system, especially under a factory warranty. Sounds like a good alternative for an older car.

 

[xxch4osxx]

Originally Posted By: XS650
Originally Posted By: xxch4osxx
Originally Posted By: XS650
Originally Posted By: xxch4osxx
Duracool's flashpoint is actually higher than R134a.


R-134A is not flammable at ambient temperatures and atmospheric pressure.
Auto ignition of Duracool is 1635F whereas R134a's auto ignition point is 1328F and no, I do not sell Duracool, I am a happy customer of Duracool. I am getting the info from their website.


You said flash point, not auto ignition. Autoignition isn't much of an issue an issue for either.

R134a isn't flammable under normal conditions at atmospheric pressure. Duracool is highly flammable at atmospheric pressure. Read their MSDS sheets.
R134 can kill you if inhaled, unlike Duracool. Besides, hydrocarbon refrigerants have been in use in Europe for many years with no ill effects. I have no worries having Duracool in my vehicle, everything is flammable at the right temperature.

 

[xxch4osxx]

A bit more info from their website: Have there been studies to determine the potential level of incidence, in terms of ignited automobile compartment leakage?
Internationally respected risk assessors Arthur D. Little, in a detailed UK-based study, estimated the risk of an ignited refrigerant leak in the passenger compartment of a motor vehicle as being in the area of 3 in 10 million. Their findings, from a local perspective, mean that if every car in the USA (some 50 to 60 million vehicles) were to use a hydrocarbon refrigerant such an accident might occur once in every 50 years.

What would the impact of and "incident level, once every 50 years" ignited automobile compartment leakage actually be?
In terms of the "impact", it is important to recognize that automobiles generally have 12-15 ounces of DURACOOL® refrigerant. If there were a full amount leak into an automobile compartment and it ignited, it would theoretically create a "flash" which would last 1-1.5 seconds.

There are eminent Risk Assessment Reports available which document the safety of hydrocarbon refrigerants in motor vehicle air conditioning systems.

 

[Chris142]

Lets end the HC talk right now.



It is illegal to use a HC refrigerant in 19 states including the OP's Idaho. The only refrigerants that can be used are R12 if the car originally had R12 or R134a in any car including a retrofit from R12.


What is the legal status of hydrocarbon refrigerants such as HC-12a® and DURACOOL®?
It has been illegal since July 13, 1995 to replace CFC-12 with the HC-12a® formulation that was submitted for SNAP review in any refrigeration or A/C application other than industrial process refrigeration. The same prohibition for OZ-12® took effect on April 18, 1994. Because DURACOOL 12a® has the same chemical composition as the HC-12a® formulation that was submitted for SNAP review (i.e., Hydrocarbon Blend B), DURACOOL 12a® is also subject to the same restrictions.

http://www.epa.gov/ozone/snap/refrigerants/hc-12a.html

http://www.imcool.com/articles/aircondition/Porsche_928_Refrigerant_Fire.php

I wish I could see the OP's car and get guage readings. It may be low or overcharged or have a blend door problem.

 

[Chris142]

The following 19 states ban the use of flammable refrigerants such as HC-12a® and DURACOOL 12a® in motor vehicle air conditioning, regardless of the original refrigerant: Arkansas, Arizona, Connecticut, Florida, Idaho, Indiana, Iowa, Kansas, Louisiana, Maryland, Nebraska, North Dakota, Oklahoma, Texas, Utah, Virginia, Wisconsin, Washington, and the District of Columbia.

http://www.epa.gov/ozone/snap/refrigerants/hc12alng.html#q16

 

[Chris142]

Originally Posted By: xxch4osxx
Originally Posted By: demarpaint
The OP's car is still under warranty, why mess with a different Refrigerant? That will surely void the warranty.
Using Duracool will not void the warranty.


Straight from the site.

"you should consider that auto manufacturers have stated that changing the refrigerant in new vehicles designed for use with HFC-134a will void the warranty and may damage the system. "

 

[demarpaint]

My point exactly, thanks!