It's a sturdy oil that can take some abuse. Too bad it's too thick for the Honda and too thin for the Triumph.
Oil recommandation for 2004 Subaru WRX STi
- Thread starter my2004sti
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My friends Toyota Tacoma 4x4 378K miles. Nothing BUT Mobil 1 every 5K miles.
Stop with the ridiculous needless, malformed wrong information, pull it out of your wazoo, made up, imaginative, garbage, stupid and ignorant comments about a very very good oil.
once and for , shut yer yap, mobil 1 bashers are absolutely the morons of this site.
there I said it.
fire away
Stop with the ridiculous needless, malformed wrong information, pull it out of your wazoo, made up, imaginative, garbage, stupid and ignorant comments about a very very good oil.
once and for , shut yer yap, mobil 1 bashers are absolutely the morons of this site.
there I said it.
fire away
Originally Posted By: peterdaniel
My friends Toyota Tacoma 4x4 378K miles. Nothing BUT Mobil 1 every 5K miles.
Stop with the ridiculous needless, malformed wrong information, pull it out of your wazoo, made up, imaginative, garbage, stupid and ignorant comments about a very very good oil.
once and for , shut yer yap, mobil 1 bashers are absolutely the morons of this site.
there I said it.
fire away
Hey, I just go by UOA's and engine teardowns...so I'll speak slowly--- in this particular family of engines, M1 5w-30 has shown to not be as an effective lubricant as other brands. Just like the Saab 2.0L Turbo engines are not built for a thin oil (synthetic or dino) and have poor UOA's when using oils other than heavier 40-wt full synthetics. It's just a trend based on experience and UOA, and if you can't go by that, then what the heck is BITOG here for??
In this particular application, M1 5w-30 specifically is not recommended. I'll stick by that. 10w-30, 0w-40, 5w-40 TDT, and 15w-50 weights of M1 have shown to be good-to-excellent in the Subarus. For the record, we use M1 15w-50 in the autocross car I codrive, and I also used M1 5w-40 TDT almost exclusively in my wife's Saab until this OCI (for cost).
My friends Toyota Tacoma 4x4 378K miles. Nothing BUT Mobil 1 every 5K miles.
Stop with the ridiculous needless, malformed wrong information, pull it out of your wazoo, made up, imaginative, garbage, stupid and ignorant comments about a very very good oil.
once and for , shut yer yap, mobil 1 bashers are absolutely the morons of this site.
there I said it.
fire away
Hey, I just go by UOA's and engine teardowns...so I'll speak slowly--- in this particular family of engines, M1 5w-30 has shown to not be as an effective lubricant as other brands. Just like the Saab 2.0L Turbo engines are not built for a thin oil (synthetic or dino) and have poor UOA's when using oils other than heavier 40-wt full synthetics. It's just a trend based on experience and UOA, and if you can't go by that, then what the heck is BITOG here for??
In this particular application, M1 5w-30 specifically is not recommended. I'll stick by that. 10w-30, 0w-40, 5w-40 TDT, and 15w-50 weights of M1 have shown to be good-to-excellent in the Subarus. For the record, we use M1 15w-50 in the autocross car I codrive, and I also used M1 5w-40 TDT almost exclusively in my wife's Saab until this OCI (for cost).
Run a good dino and change it at 3500 miles as recommended by Subaru.
Originally Posted By: scoobie
also read Dr. Haas's articles on oil under the "interesting articles" sticky part of the forum: He will tell you that always a 5w30 oil of the same make is always superior to a 10w30 oil.
You're so far off, it's embarassing.
A 10w-30 in the same brand will always be superior to a 5w-30 when it's run hard and put to the test. It will always be more resistant to shear. If a 5w-30 was *always* superior, 10w-30 would not exist.
To the OP, you live in CA. There is no need whatsoever to run a 5W anything. Run a quality 10w-30 like Redline and you will have no issues.
Most people don't realize that the difference in time from no pressure to full pressure on startup between a 5w and 10w can't be measured unless you're in extreme cold. I've run from a 10w-30 to a 20w-50 in my GN and there was no difference at all and this is with a mechanical oil pressure guage.
Then you've got the 0w crowd for a CA climate.... That's funny.
also read Dr. Haas's articles on oil under the "interesting articles" sticky part of the forum: He will tell you that always a 5w30 oil of the same make is always superior to a 10w30 oil.
You're so far off, it's embarassing.
A 10w-30 in the same brand will always be superior to a 5w-30 when it's run hard and put to the test. It will always be more resistant to shear. If a 5w-30 was *always* superior, 10w-30 would not exist.
To the OP, you live in CA. There is no need whatsoever to run a 5W anything. Run a quality 10w-30 like Redline and you will have no issues.
Most people don't realize that the difference in time from no pressure to full pressure on startup between a 5w and 10w can't be measured unless you're in extreme cold. I've run from a 10w-30 to a 20w-50 in my GN and there was no difference at all and this is with a mechanical oil pressure guage.
Then you've got the 0w crowd for a CA climate.... That's funny.
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Originally Posted By: BuickGN
Originally Posted By: scoobie
also read Dr. Haas's articles on oil under the "interesting articles" sticky part of the forum: He will tell you that always a 5w30 oil of the same make is always superior to a 10w30 oil.
You're so far off, it's embarassing.
A 10w-30 in the same brand will always be superior to a 5w-30 when it's run hard and put to the test. It will always be more resistant to shear. If a 5w-30 was *always* superior, 10w-30 would not exist.
To the OP, you live in CA. There is no need whatsoever to run a 5W anything. Run a quality 10w-30 like Redline and you will have no issues.
Most people don't realize that the difference in time from no pressure to full pressure on startup between a 5w and 10w can't be measured unless you're in extreme cold. I've run from a 10w-30 to a 20w-50 in my GN and there was no difference at all and this is with a mechanical oil pressure guage.
Then you've got the 0w crowd for a CA climate.... That's funny.
Right on GN! I started my car this morning with a fresh sump full of Valvoline Premium Conventional 20W50 and it was in the lower 40s this morning. She cranked right up flawlessly,whisper silent,and purred like a kitten like she always does
Originally Posted By: scoobie
also read Dr. Haas's articles on oil under the "interesting articles" sticky part of the forum: He will tell you that always a 5w30 oil of the same make is always superior to a 10w30 oil.
You're so far off, it's embarassing.
A 10w-30 in the same brand will always be superior to a 5w-30 when it's run hard and put to the test. It will always be more resistant to shear. If a 5w-30 was *always* superior, 10w-30 would not exist.
To the OP, you live in CA. There is no need whatsoever to run a 5W anything. Run a quality 10w-30 like Redline and you will have no issues.
Most people don't realize that the difference in time from no pressure to full pressure on startup between a 5w and 10w can't be measured unless you're in extreme cold. I've run from a 10w-30 to a 20w-50 in my GN and there was no difference at all and this is with a mechanical oil pressure guage.
Then you've got the 0w crowd for a CA climate.... That's funny.
Right on GN! I started my car this morning with a fresh sump full of Valvoline Premium Conventional 20W50 and it was in the lower 40s this morning. She cranked right up flawlessly,whisper silent,and purred like a kitten like she always does
Last edited:
Originally Posted By: Solo2driver
Originally Posted By: peterdaniel
My friends Toyota Tacoma 4x4 378K miles. Nothing BUT Mobil 1 every 5K miles.
Stop with the ridiculous needless, malformed wrong information, pull it out of your wazoo, made up, imaginative, garbage, stupid and ignorant comments about a very very good oil.
once and for , shut yer yap, mobil 1 bashers are absolutely the morons of this site.
there I said it.
fire away
Hey, I just go by UOA's and engine teardowns...so I'll speak slowly--- in this particular family of engines, M1 5w-30 has shown to not be as an effective lubricant as other brands. Just like the Saab 2.0L Turbo engines are not built for a thin oil (synthetic or dino) and have poor UOA's when using oils other than heavier 40-wt full synthetics. It's just a trend based on experience and UOA, and if you can't go by that, then what the heck is BITOG here for??
In this particular application, M1 5w-30 specifically is not recommended. I'll stick by that. 10w-30, 0w-40, 5w-40 TDT, and 15w-50 weights of M1 have shown to be good-to-excellent in the Subarus. For the record, we use M1 15w-50 in the autocross car I codrive, and I also used M1 5w-40 TDT almost exclusively in my wife's Saab until this OCI (for cost).
Sorry, I should have been more specific.. Of course you should always use the correct viscosity for your application but the main point was that Mobil 1 is excellent oil for anything you have. For turbo's, by all means you should go with an oil that is designed to take that kind of abuse.
No offense meant.
Originally Posted By: peterdaniel
My friends Toyota Tacoma 4x4 378K miles. Nothing BUT Mobil 1 every 5K miles.
Stop with the ridiculous needless, malformed wrong information, pull it out of your wazoo, made up, imaginative, garbage, stupid and ignorant comments about a very very good oil.
once and for , shut yer yap, mobil 1 bashers are absolutely the morons of this site.
there I said it.
fire away
Hey, I just go by UOA's and engine teardowns...so I'll speak slowly--- in this particular family of engines, M1 5w-30 has shown to not be as an effective lubricant as other brands. Just like the Saab 2.0L Turbo engines are not built for a thin oil (synthetic or dino) and have poor UOA's when using oils other than heavier 40-wt full synthetics. It's just a trend based on experience and UOA, and if you can't go by that, then what the heck is BITOG here for??
In this particular application, M1 5w-30 specifically is not recommended. I'll stick by that. 10w-30, 0w-40, 5w-40 TDT, and 15w-50 weights of M1 have shown to be good-to-excellent in the Subarus. For the record, we use M1 15w-50 in the autocross car I codrive, and I also used M1 5w-40 TDT almost exclusively in my wife's Saab until this OCI (for cost).
Sorry, I should have been more specific.. Of course you should always use the correct viscosity for your application but the main point was that Mobil 1 is excellent oil for anything you have. For turbo's, by all means you should go with an oil that is designed to take that kind of abuse.
No offense meant.
Here is something interesting.
The manual states the following:
"Oil grade
ILSAC GF-3, which can be indentified with the new API certification mark (starburst mark) or AP classification SL with the words "ENERGY CONSERVING" (if you cannot obtain the oil with SL grade, you may use SJ grade "ENERGY CONSERVING" oil)
Now I'm looking at the Mobil 1 10W-30 bottle and it says:
ACEA A1/B1,A5/B5, ILSAC GF-4, API SM,SL/CF and it has the energy conserving in the stamp.
The German Castrol on the other hands says "API SL/CF" in the stamp, but doesn't say energy conserving. It also says "Meets catalyst/emission system compatibility requirements of ILSAC GF-3/GF-2.
The manual states the following:
"Oil grade
ILSAC GF-3, which can be indentified with the new API certification mark (starburst mark) or AP classification SL with the words "ENERGY CONSERVING" (if you cannot obtain the oil with SL grade, you may use SJ grade "ENERGY CONSERVING" oil)
Now I'm looking at the Mobil 1 10W-30 bottle and it says:
ACEA A1/B1,A5/B5, ILSAC GF-4, API SM,SL/CF and it has the energy conserving in the stamp.
The German Castrol on the other hands says "API SL/CF" in the stamp, but doesn't say energy conserving. It also says "Meets catalyst/emission system compatibility requirements of ILSAC GF-3/GF-2.
That's what I was getting at.
I did read the car manual several times throughout the years, but it pays to pay attention to the small letters.
Gonna swap the oil this comming weekend, along with an oil seperator kit I'm installing and some braided lines.
Gonna be fun.....
I did read the car manual several times throughout the years, but it pays to pay attention to the small letters.
Gonna swap the oil this comming weekend, along with an oil seperator kit I'm installing and some braided lines.
Gonna be fun.....
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Originally Posted By: BuickGN
You don't want the energy conserving stamp for use in a high perfomance car.
^^2nd. A high performance car is as far from energy conserving as you can get.
You don't want the energy conserving stamp for use in a high perfomance car.
^^2nd. A high performance car is as far from energy conserving as you can get.
Originally Posted By: scoobie
a 5w30 oil of the same make is always superior to a 10w30 oil.
Not true. 10w-30s are usually a little more robust, all else equal.
As far as I understand, Dr. Haas's article is written largely in the context of short trips anyway.
a 5w30 oil of the same make is always superior to a 10w30 oil.
Not true. 10w-30s are usually a little more robust, all else equal.
As far as I understand, Dr. Haas's article is written largely in the context of short trips anyway.
Originally Posted By: d00df00d
Originally Posted By: Solo2driver
plenty of spun bearings in Subaru turbo engines.
Got link?
It's fairly prevalent, almost too many links to post. Go to NASIOC.com and search "mobil 1 spun bearings".
No offense taken
Originally Posted By: Solo2driver
plenty of spun bearings in Subaru turbo engines.
Got link?
It's fairly prevalent, almost too many links to post. Go to NASIOC.com and search "mobil 1 spun bearings".
No offense taken
I can't search NASIOC because I'm not a member. However, a quick Google search revealed a few interesting things.
First of all, there are LOTS of Subaru dealers that use Mobil 1. Since 5w-30 is recommended in most Subaru service manuals and is also the most popular grade of Mobil 1, then there is a very obvious conclusion: if there were a significant problem with spun bearings due to Mobil 1, either Mobil would have fixed it or Subaru would have issued a TSB saying never to use it. So far, neither has happened. To me, that says something.
When I looked at forum posts, I noticed that almost all of them seemed to fall into two categories:
1. People who seemed to know little to nothing about oil, or were blatantly misinformed:
"And I have heard bad things about Mobil 1 (spun bearings, on NASIOC) plus M1 was bought by a different company. While keeping the name, they decided to change the formula."
2. People who seemed to be fairly well informed, and described circumstances that would have spun bearings on virtually any oil:
"I was running really sticky tires on the track, cornering very very hard and holding high RPS when it went" [sic]
"Mobile 1 Synth 10-30w. But I also had a questionable tune and was driving too fast with RA gears and a lot of other factors."
I also found this tidbit, and others to similar effect:
"FWIW, every Subaru tech, master tech, independent Subaru repair shop tech has stated to me that 9 out of 10 failed WRX/STI motors is because of oil starvation. I was just chatting with a tech on Monday morning and he confirmed this again. He suggested that when running a high power WRX/STI you should be checking your oil just about every time you fill up for gas."
Several of the stories I found ended in the owners switching to and/or recommending dino oil. I find it hard to believe that that fixed the problem, and that makes me doubt how accurately they are assessing the problem in the first place.
The way I read it from what I've seen so far, it seems that these spun rod bearings are due to a combination of a vulnerability in the engines with some kind of inattentiveness on the part of the owner. Since Mobil 1 is the synthetic of choice for most people, it makes sense that that would be what is in these failed engines when they break. That doesn't mean Mobil 1 caused the failure. Moreover, after a repair, it makes sense that an owner would pay more attention and use a different oil, probably by buying into the hype of Royal Purple, Amsoil, etc. That doesn't mean the new oil fixed the problem; maybe the owner is just paying more attention in general and not messing up again.
That's why I'm asking for a direct link. You seem to have at least some idea what you're talking about in general, so if you say you have seen good evidence that Mobil 1 causes failures I am inclined to believe you. I just want to see it first.
First of all, there are LOTS of Subaru dealers that use Mobil 1. Since 5w-30 is recommended in most Subaru service manuals and is also the most popular grade of Mobil 1, then there is a very obvious conclusion: if there were a significant problem with spun bearings due to Mobil 1, either Mobil would have fixed it or Subaru would have issued a TSB saying never to use it. So far, neither has happened. To me, that says something.
When I looked at forum posts, I noticed that almost all of them seemed to fall into two categories:
1. People who seemed to know little to nothing about oil, or were blatantly misinformed:
"And I have heard bad things about Mobil 1 (spun bearings, on NASIOC) plus M1 was bought by a different company. While keeping the name, they decided to change the formula."
2. People who seemed to be fairly well informed, and described circumstances that would have spun bearings on virtually any oil:
"I was running really sticky tires on the track, cornering very very hard and holding high RPS when it went" [sic]
"Mobile 1 Synth 10-30w. But I also had a questionable tune and was driving too fast with RA gears and a lot of other factors."
I also found this tidbit, and others to similar effect:
"FWIW, every Subaru tech, master tech, independent Subaru repair shop tech has stated to me that 9 out of 10 failed WRX/STI motors is because of oil starvation. I was just chatting with a tech on Monday morning and he confirmed this again. He suggested that when running a high power WRX/STI you should be checking your oil just about every time you fill up for gas."
Several of the stories I found ended in the owners switching to and/or recommending dino oil. I find it hard to believe that that fixed the problem, and that makes me doubt how accurately they are assessing the problem in the first place.
The way I read it from what I've seen so far, it seems that these spun rod bearings are due to a combination of a vulnerability in the engines with some kind of inattentiveness on the part of the owner. Since Mobil 1 is the synthetic of choice for most people, it makes sense that that would be what is in these failed engines when they break. That doesn't mean Mobil 1 caused the failure. Moreover, after a repair, it makes sense that an owner would pay more attention and use a different oil, probably by buying into the hype of Royal Purple, Amsoil, etc. That doesn't mean the new oil fixed the problem; maybe the owner is just paying more attention in general and not messing up again.
That's why I'm asking for a direct link. You seem to have at least some idea what you're talking about in general, so if you say you have seen good evidence that Mobil 1 causes failures I am inclined to believe you. I just want to see it first.
There are no links, no conclusive or even near conclusive evidence. I belong to NASIOC and the people that have failures are having them due to oil starvation from racing and tracking the cars without using the proper oil pan baffles incredibly STUPID modifications, over boosting the engine, over redlining the engine etc..
This is a joke and I am asking the moderators to automatically ban anyone that posts this junk with hard core proof.
I have had many WRX's and I always used Mobil 1.
I just don't drive them like the children do.
You can trust your instinct that when you see a stupid, moronic, unbelievable problem or impossible malfunction, you can trace 99.9% of them back to the same idiotic human that did them.
This is a joke and I am asking the moderators to automatically ban anyone that posts this junk with hard core proof.
I have had many WRX's and I always used Mobil 1.
I just don't drive them like the children do.
You can trust your instinct that when you see a stupid, moronic, unbelievable problem or impossible malfunction, you can trace 99.9% of them back to the same idiotic human that did them.
Last edited:
Originally Posted By: my2004sti
Ok guys. I drove down to a local buyer this morning and bought some German Castrol 0W-30.
Thanks for everyone who chimed in, we shall see what happens.
Great choice, I've had very good results with GC in my '05 STi.
Ok guys. I drove down to a local buyer this morning and bought some German Castrol 0W-30.
Thanks for everyone who chimed in, we shall see what happens.
Great choice, I've had very good results with GC in my '05 STi.
Originally Posted By: BuickGN
Then you've got the 0w crowd for a CA climate.... That's funny.
Not just any 0W-XX oil, but specifically Castrol Syntec 0W-30 which has proven to be a very robust oil and closer to a 40-weight oil than most other 30-weight oils. Perfectly usable in CA, TX, AZ, etc. Granted, you may never need the extreme cold-startability (is that a word?) of GC, but the oil is excellent in the heat of the summer as well. My $0.02, YMMV.
Then you've got the 0w crowd for a CA climate.... That's funny.
Not just any 0W-XX oil, but specifically Castrol Syntec 0W-30 which has proven to be a very robust oil and closer to a 40-weight oil than most other 30-weight oils. Perfectly usable in CA, TX, AZ, etc. Granted, you may never need the extreme cold-startability (is that a word?) of GC, but the oil is excellent in the heat of the summer as well. My $0.02, YMMV.
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