And you should probably swap out the tranny fluid and filter if there is one, and using auto-rx would also be good for the engine.
Dodge 318 Oil Help
- Thread starter ediamiam
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Hey Jelly, where can you find Pennzoil Long Life these days? What does it cost?
I concur with ediamiam suggestions.
I concur with ediamiam suggestions.
walmart should have LL; I even found it on sale/after rebate in quarts (ridiculous size for big-sumped diesel owners) for $1.09 at my local auto parts store. The walmart gallon bottles are yellow with flexible necks-- could be on a different shelf but should be near the supertech you found. Delo or Rotella would work too.
Interesting eljefino, I haven't been able to find it at any of the Walmarts around here. I'll have to look again.
Hello everyone, Thanks for visiting my post. I have a few questions. I just bought a motor home on a dodge chassis and it has a 318 V-8 and a auto plus it is a dually. I am not sure what year it is advacually I had a 1978 and it looks very simialer to that one, so I would have to say it is a late 1970's. My question is this motor gets work hard very hard, it gets about 8 to 10 for mpg's. It has about 150,000 on it from what I know. It smokes a little not to bad though. And use oil, I was told about a quart every 500 to 750 miles. I was wondering what weight of oil I should use it will only be used during the summer so cold starting won't be a problem. Right now I have Super Tech 15W-40 in it with a Motorcraft FL-1A filter. What would you suggest.
Also I forgot to say thanks for visiting, reading, and replying to my questions.
Given the summer only use, HDEO 15w-40's are the way to go.
Among this group, I'd select Pennzoil Long-Life...it's very good at reducing oil consumption, even in comparison to other HDEO 15w-40's (even with the new formulation).
Good filter choice!
I would definitely recommend running a good fuel system cleaner through it as well. I'd pick Gumout Regane.
Among this group, I'd select Pennzoil Long-Life...it's very good at reducing oil consumption, even in comparison to other HDEO 15w-40's (even with the new formulation).
Good filter choice!
I would definitely recommend running a good fuel system cleaner through it as well. I'd pick Gumout Regane.
Howdy, JR. The 15w-40 mixed fleet (gas/diesel) lubes would be an excellent non-winter choice. The current Chevron/Havoline spec sheets do a good job of assigning oil weights to general applications: 10w-30 is a default weight for older engines, with 10w-40 for "older model vehicles that see regular high temperature operation." And 20w-50 is recommended for "older engines in high temp and heavy duty operations such as towing/inclines for long periods." Either 15w-40 or an inexpensive 10w-40 would be my choice here, maybe bumping up to 20w-50 if oil consumption becomes an issue.
In case you do a Winter trip sometime, the Chevron site below lists generic, safe low starting temps for various weights. You can interpolate for 15w oil by using the 10w and 20w numbers.
http://www.chevron.com/prodserv/nafl/auto/content/faq.shtm
In case you do a Winter trip sometime, the Chevron site below lists generic, safe low starting temps for various weights. You can interpolate for 15w oil by using the 10w and 20w numbers.
http://www.chevron.com/prodserv/nafl/auto/content/faq.shtm
JR, I'd avoid an inexpensive dino 10w-40 for this application. It'll more than likely shear out quickly under heavy use in high temps.
Good old HD-30 would be ideal for summer use in that engine also.
If you ever make it up north a ways, most of the WalMarts around here have it. (Seen it in Wichita Falls, TX and Vernon, TX)
"I'd avoid an inexpensive dino 10w-40 for this application."
This is a ~30 year old Michigan motorhome engine (as opposed to say, Phoenix or Las Vegas) with 150,000 miles on it which presumably is only driven a couple thousand miles each year ("...it will only be used during the summer"). Therefore time will be the deciding factor, assuming an annual oil change, rather than miles. The 50 cent Citgo 10w-40 one poster recently found, changed every year/2K-3K summer miles, would be a "cake walk" in such an engine assuming it's not goin' thermonuclear. On second thought, I'll simply defer to Havoline's/Chevron Supreme's current spec sheet: "10w-40 is often recommended for older model vehicles that see regular high temperature operation." A Google search very quickly revealed that typical summer highs in eastern Michigan are in the mid-80s. Now if JR lived in 110F degree Las Vegas...
[ December 12, 2004, 11:40 PM: Message edited by: TC ]
This is a ~30 year old Michigan motorhome engine (as opposed to say, Phoenix or Las Vegas) with 150,000 miles on it which presumably is only driven a couple thousand miles each year ("...it will only be used during the summer"). Therefore time will be the deciding factor, assuming an annual oil change, rather than miles. The 50 cent Citgo 10w-40 one poster recently found, changed every year/2K-3K summer miles, would be a "cake walk" in such an engine assuming it's not goin' thermonuclear. On second thought, I'll simply defer to Havoline's/Chevron Supreme's current spec sheet: "10w-40 is often recommended for older model vehicles that see regular high temperature operation." A Google search very quickly revealed that typical summer highs in eastern Michigan are in the mid-80s. Now if JR lived in 110F degree Las Vegas...
[ December 12, 2004, 11:40 PM: Message edited by: TC ]
I don't see it stated in the original post that the vehicle will be used for only ~2K miles per year. But if that is the case, and the goal is to use the least expensive oil to do the job, what you suggest may be adequate.
But when I read things like "motor home", "318 V-8", "dually", "gets worked very hard", "gets about 8 to 10 mpg's", "has about 150,000 on it", I believe the HDEO found at Wally world for as little as $1.72/qt would be more appropriate.
thanks for all the replies. I have choosen to opt with the 15W-40 HDEO. I am soory that I did not state that this motorhome will see somewhere around 5,000 to 7,000 miles a year. I want to tell all I thought it might be a 440 at first before I bought it but the owner and the vin says its a 318
by the way if anyone has any more advice I would love to hear it.
Hello:
My vote is for a HDEO 15-40 as well. The 318 is a time tested design, they will last a long time. I have used a 15w-40 in my 2000 5.2L and I believe my father used to use a 40wt oil in his 77 ramcharger with the 318 in it. Its widely available, properly priced, and suitable for your application. Personally I would go for it.
My vote is for a HDEO 15-40 as well. The 318 is a time tested design, they will last a long time. I have used a 15w-40 in my 2000 5.2L and I believe my father used to use a 40wt oil in his 77 ramcharger with the 318 in it. Its widely available, properly priced, and suitable for your application. Personally I would go for it.
A 318 is working very hard in that application, most older Dodge motorhomes have a 440 in them. Since this is a summer-only truck, 15W-40 is ideal. Straight 30 would be my second choice, which is what my friend uses in her 1977 Dodge 440 motorhome.
Run A-Rx, as directed, in ATF, PSF, Rear Differential, and Engine Oil (after pulling valve covers and following MOLAKULES engine cleaning regimen using Neutra and Lube Control; having FIRST used MOPAR COMBUSTION CHAMBER CLEANER per directions [search #59 in Additives Forum])(replace spark plugs after above, before A-Rx use).
Switch to SCHAEFFERS Dexron-Mercon in trans and power steering. (Have TRANS-GO shift kit installed at service with pan drop; install auxiliary cooler and filter).
Run REDLINE 75W-140 in rear diff.
Run SCHAEFFERS 15w-40 in engine (with BALDWIN B2-HPG oil filter).
Run FUEL POWER and LUBE CONTROL once A-Rx service is finished. Change oil/filter 6k/annual.
At least (were it mine): rebuild carb (or change to DEMON 4V http://www.4secondsflat.com); pull and clean intake manifold of crossover carbon build-up; repair heated air intake and make choke operation perfect (convert to electric); add electric CARTER "helper" fuel pump and large FRAM gas filter;
Do compression AND blowby check. Heads may need servicing (at least, valve stem seals).
New advance curve, fuel delivery curve AFTER:
Dual exhaust installation (or, single 3.5" with 50-series FLOWMASTER muffler); new plugs, wires, cap, rotor;
All new vacuum lines, hoses, filters. Extensive cleaning of cooling system (see "Olds Wagon" thread in coolant forum); check timing chain for slack (I'd replace it with a CLOYES piece).
Also, new shocks (BILSTEIN), new steering stabilizer (or add one); complete brake service; new u-joints; careful inspect of ball joints, leaf spring bushings, tie rods, pitman and A-arm as well as wheel bearing replacement.
Add front/rear anti-roll bars if not so equipped; with greaseable polyurethane bushings.
Add vacuum gauge (AUTOMETER), engine hour meter (Stewart-Warner) and keep note of all miles, conditions, fuel, etc.
[ December 14, 2004, 06:57 PM: Message edited by: TheTanSedan ]
Switch to SCHAEFFERS Dexron-Mercon in trans and power steering. (Have TRANS-GO shift kit installed at service with pan drop; install auxiliary cooler and filter).
Run REDLINE 75W-140 in rear diff.
Run SCHAEFFERS 15w-40 in engine (with BALDWIN B2-HPG oil filter).
Run FUEL POWER and LUBE CONTROL once A-Rx service is finished. Change oil/filter 6k/annual.
At least (were it mine): rebuild carb (or change to DEMON 4V http://www.4secondsflat.com); pull and clean intake manifold of crossover carbon build-up; repair heated air intake and make choke operation perfect (convert to electric); add electric CARTER "helper" fuel pump and large FRAM gas filter;
Do compression AND blowby check. Heads may need servicing (at least, valve stem seals).
New advance curve, fuel delivery curve AFTER:
Dual exhaust installation (or, single 3.5" with 50-series FLOWMASTER muffler); new plugs, wires, cap, rotor;
All new vacuum lines, hoses, filters. Extensive cleaning of cooling system (see "Olds Wagon" thread in coolant forum); check timing chain for slack (I'd replace it with a CLOYES piece).
Also, new shocks (BILSTEIN), new steering stabilizer (or add one); complete brake service; new u-joints; careful inspect of ball joints, leaf spring bushings, tie rods, pitman and A-arm as well as wheel bearing replacement.
Add front/rear anti-roll bars if not so equipped; with greaseable polyurethane bushings.
Add vacuum gauge (AUTOMETER), engine hour meter (Stewart-Warner) and keep note of all miles, conditions, fuel, etc.
[ December 14, 2004, 06:57 PM: Message edited by: TheTanSedan ]
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