Zero turn experiences?

[tiger862]

When I bought my X350 I caught heat for not getting a Zero Turn. My mower goes 5.5 mph with a short turning radius. I don't have to hit reverse switch to reverse cut. I have lots of obstacles and a ditch to cut. Would not trade it for a Zero Turn. AC guys were watching me cut and even commented where did you get a mower that moves and cuts like that. I even offered several people who had Zero Turn to come and cut and we would compare but no takers. I have stuck my mower a couple of times with once my daughter brought her boyfriend to help which he brought his Zero Turn and didn't make it far.

 

[SHOZ]

I had a MTD rider that had 4 wheel steering once. It was typical MTD quality of the day. Motor OK but the steering wore out premature.

 

[jeepman3071]

When I bought my X350 I caught heat for not getting a Zero Turn. My mower goes 5.5 mph with a short turning radius. I don't have to hit reverse switch to reverse cut. I have lots of obstacles and a ditch to cut. Would not trade it for a Zero Turn. AC guys were watching me cut and even commented where did you get a mower that moves and cuts like that. I even offered several people who had Zero Turn to come and cut and we would compare but no takers. I have stuck my mower a couple of times with once my daughter brought her boyfriend to help which he brought his Zero Turn and didn't make it far.

The John Deere X series riding tractors are really nice. My neighbor has one with the 4-wheel steer. For speed and obstacles a zero-turn wins, but if you need to do anything besides mow (pull a cart, snow removal, etc) there is no replacement for a really nice garden tractor. I have a 48" Exmark Viking hydro walk-behind with a stand-on sulky, and it pretty much cut my mowing time in half over my 54" John Deere garden tractor, but I have a lot of obstacles to mow around with gardens, fruit trees, and a patio. I have a Kubota tractor with a loader for the other yard chores, otherwise a garden tractor would still be needed.

 

[jhs914]

Those who complain about zero turns tearing up the grass when turning need to use a 3 point turn. I make an initial cut around the perimeter of my lawn, which gives me a space to make the turn at the end of each row. I then make a 3 point turn to head the other direction. No wheel spin that digs up the grass.

 

[The_Eric]

Those who complain about zero turns tearing up the grass when turning need to use a 3 point turn. I make an initial cut around the perimeter of my lawn, which gives me a space to make the turn at the end of each row. I then make a 3 point turn to head the other direction. No wheel spin that digs up the grass.

I agree - just because you can doesn't mean that you should. And it also takes some finesse to balance the speeds of the inside and outside wheels as slowing too much or stopping the inside while turning is a surefire way to tear up turf. I generally slow the unit, then speed up the outside, instead of basically cutting power to the inside AND make a 3 point turn around small diameter trees

As for making an outside pass first, I also do that in places, but will also wait until all the turning is done and then go over the outside to "finish" the edges to hide where the grass was laid down by the wheels for a nice, consistent look in others.

 

[92saturnsl2]

The John Deere X series riding tractors are really nice. My neighbor has one with the 4-wheel steer. For speed and obstacles a zero-turn wins, but if you need to do anything besides mow (pull a cart, snow removal, etc) there is no replacement for a really nice garden tractor. I have a 48" Exmark Viking hydro walk-behind with a stand-on sulky, and it pretty much cut my mowing time in half over my 54" John Deere garden tractor, but I have a lot of obstacles to mow around with gardens, fruit trees, and a patio. I have a Kubota tractor with a loader for the other yard chores, otherwise a garden tractor would still be needed.

Can the X350 really be described as a lawn/garden "tractor"? I see small rear wheels with no lug nuts and thin stamped fenders that mimic cheap discount mowers I'd find at Lowes. Both my old New Holland and Craftsman have lug nuts on rear (and rim size that supports various tires other than turf, like AG/rib) and solid frame at the front and rear to support various attachments.

Those who complain about zero turns tearing up the grass when turning need to use a 3 point turn. I make an initial cut around the perimeter of my lawn, which gives me a space to make the turn at the end of each row. I then make a 3 point turn to head the other direction. No wheel spin that digs up the grass.

I don't think physics allows a true zero-turn in my yard without tearing grass up. Perhaps if I stopped completely and manipulated the controls just right. I find it quicker just to make a three point turn which I can do in a small fraction of the time it would take me on my old conventional rider (even my New Holland with hydro that didn't require a gear change). I also do a couple lines of perimeter mow, which aids in keeping my mower safely away from being on neighbors' property.

I just can't fathom how a conventional rider would outperform a zero turn for the sole function of mowing grass. Unless you mow in a pattern that puts you on top of uncut grass at all times with minimal 180's. The never ending square (starting from outside to inside) is the approach my teenage son uses to mow grass and it looks like crap compared to going back and forth in lines.

 

[jeepman3071]

Can the X350 really be described as a lawn/garden "tractor"? I see small rear wheels with no lug nuts and thin stamped fenders that mimic cheap discount mowers I'd find at Lowes. Both my old New Holland and Craftsman have lug nuts on rear (and rim size that supports various tires other than turf, like AG/rib) and solid frame at the front and rear to support various attachments.



I don't think physics allows a true zero-turn in my yard without tearing grass up. Perhaps if I stopped completely and manipulated the controls just right. I find it quicker just to make a three point turn which I can do in a small fraction of the time it would take me on my old conventional rider (even my New Holland with hydro that didn't require a gear change). I also do a couple lines of perimeter mow, which aids in keeping my mower safely away from being on neighbors' property.

I just can't fathom how a conventional rider would outperform a zero turn for the sole function of mowing grass. Unless you mow in a pattern that puts you on top of uncut grass at all times with minimal 180's. The never ending square (starting from outside to inside) is the approach my teenage son uses to mow grass and it looks like crap compared to going back and forth in lines.

The X-series are higher-end lawn tractors and garden tractors. The X350 is probably more of a lawn tractor, it doesn't accept tillers and other ground engaging attachments, but it is a big step above the "lawn tractors" at home depot with better construction.

Lawn tractors are better than zero-turns on wet and/or hilly terrain. I mow a few hills, which is one reason I own an Exmark walk-behind over a ride on zero-turn. The ride on zero-turns I repair for customers are noticeably unstable and difficult to keep straight on the hills.

 

[SHOZ]

My 1999 F510 JD is a slow mow but a tank for hauling anything. Traction is an issue but it's a killer in reverse. Dragging 300-400 lb log up hill out of the ditch then 1000 ft to the pond bank over and over lately.

 

[92saturnsl2]

The new mower got it's first good workout. I went on vacation for a week and the subsequent week was nothing but periodic thunderstorms, so 2+ weeks had elapsed before things dried out and I was able to mow.

Main takeaway:

The machine is not invincible. In the tall stuff, deck clogging / cut quality was the limiting factor. Had to reduce speed greatly much like my old riding mowers. The beauty is I didn't have to change cut height or make two passes. As long as you listened to the deck and went at an appropriate speed, it did a good job. The grass clippings come out smaller/finer than any mower I've used, so hopefully my lapse in mowing doesn't cause any dead areas from being covered in mats of cut grass. Engine never sounded strained but you could tell it was working harder than previous mows where grass was super dry and not nearly as tall.

Couple things that concern me. The fuel filter is in a very poor location, literally sandwiched in between the seat frame and engine block. The metal hose clamp (at engine side) has begun digging into the aluminum fin on the engine. Undecided whether I want to call the dealer and have them fix it or just reroute the line myself.

Engine smoked (oil burning) WAY too much on a couple instances. The first one, I had stopped mid-mow to attend to my smoker (cooking dinner). I put the engine at idle and was away from the machine longer than planned. It idled for 5-10 minutes, then I shut it off. When I went back to start it another 10 minutes later, it billowed smoke for a good 30 seconds or so, reminded me of doing MMO piston soaks overnight back in the day on my old Saturn. Doesn't seem right for a new engine and very embarassing; I'm sure ever neighbor around me was wondering where all the smoke was coming from. The second time was just shutting the machine down after mowing, I let it idle perhaps a minute before shutting down. I came back an hour later or so to blow grass off it before storing, and the next startup it also blew clouds of smoke, though not nearly as bad as the other time. If it continues to do this, I'm curious if this is something worth pursuing with the dealer while engine/mower are under warranty.

Last observation is that the fluid in the transmission expansion tanks is noticeably darker than when the machine was new. Machine sits at 10.4 hours right now, I think changing the hydrostatic oil at 20 or so hours might be warranted, if for no other reason than to get break in metals out.

 

[#18FAN]

The new mower got it's first good workout. I went on vacation for a week and the subsequent week was nothing but periodic thunderstorms, so 2+ weeks had elapsed before things dried out and I was able to mow.

Main takeaway:

The machine is not invincible. In the tall stuff, deck clogging / cut quality was the limiting factor. Had to reduce speed greatly much like my old riding mowers. The beauty is I didn't have to change cut height or make two passes. As long as you listened to the deck and went at an appropriate speed, it did a good job. The grass clippings come out smaller/finer than any mower I've used, so hopefully my lapse in mowing doesn't cause any dead areas from being covered in mats of cut grass. Engine never sounded strained but you could tell it was working harder than previous mows where grass was super dry and not nearly as tall.

Couple things that concern me. The fuel filter is in a very poor location, literally sandwiched in between the seat frame and engine block. The metal hose clamp (at engine side) has begun digging into the aluminum fin on the engine. Undecided whether I want to call the dealer and have them fix it or just reroute the line myself.

Engine smoked (oil burning) WAY too much on a couple instances. The first one, I had stopped mid-mow to attend to my smoker (cooking dinner). I put the engine at idle and was away from the machine longer than planned. It idled for 5-10 minutes, then I shut it off. When I went back to start it another 10 minutes later, it billowed smoke for a good 30 seconds or so, reminded me of doing MMO piston soaks overnight back in the day on my old Saturn. Doesn't seem right for a new engine and very embarassing; I'm sure ever neighbor around me was wondering where all the smoke was coming from. The second time was just shutting the machine down after mowing, I let it idle perhaps a minute before shutting down. I came back an hour later or so to blow grass off it before storing, and the next startup it also blew clouds of smoke, though not nearly as bad as the other time. If it continues to do this, I'm curious if this is something worth pursuing with the dealer while engine/mower are under warranty.

Last observation is that the fluid in the transmission expansion tanks is noticeably darker than when the machine was new. Machine sits at 10.4 hours right now, I think changing the hydrostatic oil at 20 or so hours might be warranted, if for no other reason than to get break in metals out.

View attachment 233690

View attachment 233691

View attachment 233692

View attachment 233693

View attachment 233694

View attachment 233695

I think you are asking alot out of that machine cutting that heavy and tall grass needs a brush mower.

 

[nomas]

When I bought my X350 I caught heat for not getting a Zero Turn. My mower goes 5.5 mph with a short turning radius. I don't have to hit reverse switch to reverse cut.

What is this reverse switch ? My ZT does not have a reverse switch , you just pull back on the levers .

 

[SHOZ]

On my JD 320M I moved the fuel lines. They had it running along the back of the block where it would be in contact with the cooling fins. No extra hose needed.

 

[fantastic]

You may have already but at least rotate that fuel clamp away from the aluminum housing. Mowing 2 weeks worth of Midwest grass this time of year is no joke. I do it on a regular basis but it's not easy on the machine in the slightest. I send off an oil sample yesterday that you might be interested in seeing what 2 weeks mowing will do to your engine. I add insult to injury by discharging to the uncut grass that allows me to "mulch mow" as I call it. I don't know what to expect as I've never sampled that lawn tractor before but I'll be posting another one from my Kawasaki that's not in good health so ignore that post. Anyways, Rerouting the fuel line yourself should be relatively cheap & just some fuel line possibly clamps. Good to hear on your experience.

 

[IveBeenRued]

Engine smoked (oil burning) WAY too much on a couple instances. The first one, I had stopped mid-mow to attend to my smoker (cooking dinner). I put the engine at idle and was away from the machine longer than planned. It idled for 5-10 minutes, then I shut it off. When I went back to start it another 10 minutes later, it billowed smoke for a good 30 seconds or so, reminded me of doing MMO piston soaks overnight back in the day on my old Saturn. Doesn't seem right for a new engine and very embarassing; I'm sure ever neighbor around me was wondering where all the smoke was coming from. The second time was just shutting the machine down after mowing, I let it idle perhaps a minute before shutting down. I came back an hour later or so to blow grass off it before storing, and the next startup it also blew clouds of smoke, though not nearly as bad as the other time. If it continues to do this, I'm curious if this is something worth pursuing with the dealer while engine/mower are under

Are you running 20W-50 or 15W-50? Anything thinner isn’t sufficient for those motors it seems.

 

[92saturnsl2]

Are you running 20W-50 or 15W-50? Anything thinner isn’t sufficient for those motors it seems.

I changed the initial fill at 5 hours using Mystik 15w-50 w/ new filter. Kawasaki issued a dealer bulletin a few years ago suggesting the use of 15w-50 due to oil consumption. Jury is still out, but judging by material quality used on the Kawasaki (plastic engine/cooling fin shroud, cheap/small air filter with no pre-filter, etc.) vs other V-twins I've had, it certainly looks like it's made to a low price point. I'm going to take it out today and see if it still doubles as a mosquito fogger upon startup.

 

[MParr]

Rotate the fuel hose clamp. If you have enough fuel line, move the line and secure it with a zip tie.
The color of the hydrostatic fluid is normal.
You are asking too much from the engine. You are taking too much off in one pass.
There is a foam prefilter available for your engine.
I hope that you are not using Gator blades.
Go get you some Rotary #6083 mower blades and 3 each 1/4” blade spacers. Put the spacers between the blades and the spindles. Side discharge your clippings.

 

[tiger862]

What is this reverse switch ? My ZT does not have a reverse switch , you just pull back on the levers .

One of the talking points of a Zero Turn is no reverse lock out. I took care of that problem so I can go from forward to reverse with pedal only. I can switch forward to reverse instantly. My x350 also has a shorter turning radius.

 

[jeepman3071]

I changed the initial fill at 5 hours using Mystik 15w-50 w/ new filter. Kawasaki issued a dealer bulletin a few years ago suggesting the use of 15w-50 due to oil consumption. Jury is still out, but judging by material quality used on the Kawasaki (plastic engine/cooling fin shroud, cheap/small air filter with no pre-filter, etc.) vs other V-twins I've had, it certainly looks like it's made to a low price point. I'm going to take it out today and see if it still doubles as a mosquito fogger upon startup.

The FR series Kawasakis are residential engines. The FS and FX are a bit more suited to commercial duty. The FX engines have the heavy duty air cleaner setup.

Since it is a new engine, it still may need to break in. The FR should still have a foam pre-cleaner around the paper air filter from the factory.

 

[MParr]

Since it is a new engine, it still may need to break in. The FR should still have a foam pre-cleaner around the paper air filter from the factory.

If it doesn’t, he should certainly get one. I would definitely check the high idle RPMS. My Pro Turn 260 was delivered set at 3,300 RPMS. I bumped it up to 3,600 per Kohler service manual.

 

[fantastic]

If it doesn’t, he should certainly get one. I would definitely check the high idle RPMS. My Pro Turn 260 was delivered set at 3,300 RPMS. I bumped it up to 3,600 per Kohler service manual.

How old is your 260 ZT? I heard carbs are harder to adjust high idle setting these days w/o getting a different jet size.