2017 Hyundai Sonata 2.4L non - turbo DFI 4 cylinder engine : The owners manual states for severe OCI : 3,750 miles if you tow , do stop and go city driving , drive in mountains or dusty conditions and 7,500 miles for everything else ... The only "severe" driving I do is heavier traffic at rush hour in the suburbs then it's just normal stop and go of traffic lights where the vehicle is always driven more than 20 minutes each trip with occasional interstate runs - about like 85% of most people living in the suburbs of large US cities . *The dealer calls it "severe" driving - I'm not so sure . I currently split the difference doing my own oil changes with 5W30 synthetic D1 Gen 2 rated oils with a Fram Ultra filter ... Your thoughts ?
Your Understading Of "Severe" Driving ?
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The way I see it is if you meet any one of those conditions on a regular basis you fall under the severe service category. I've been told that as well by industry professionals who know a lot more than I do. I would not take chances especially with a DI engine if I were driving it under any of those conditions. I think more people fall under the severe service category than don't, especially on the East Coast, West Coast and in big cities.
When in doubt get a used oil analysis.
When in doubt get a used oil analysis.
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That very same vehicle in Australia has a 12 month or 15,000km (9,320 miles) service interval. The description of your driving doesn't sound "severe" to me.
wemay
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...and you live in mild Georgia. Doesn't sound like Severe Service to me either. Nor can your dealership dictate which schedule to use (preposterous). Choose an OCI you're comfortable with which falls inside the max allowed. You'll be fine.
3750 isn't very long on a newer non turbo car regardless of driving conditions so I feel your pain. The term "stop and go" is so vague.. technically any sort of driving in a town with at least 1 stop sign is stop and go.
Probably depends on the dealer, but I could see this being a way for them to deny a warranty claim.
I would stick with 3750 if your dealer says you fit the criteria.
Probably depends on the dealer, but I could see this being a way for them to deny a warranty claim.
I would stick with 3750 if your dealer says you fit the criteria.
Full synthetic with an oem filter you're fine for 5-7,500 miles. If you're more comfortable go with 5,000 mile change. Car manufacturers really (edit-mod) with direct injection and are rewriting everything they once knew about the service intervals of their vehicles to protect their (edit-mod) and stick it on the consumer for not following.
It's complete scare tactics.. I had a 2008 Sonata that had 7500 mile OCI using conventional. 10k synthetic. I get it the newer cars with GDI is bad news but to waste synthetic oil at 3750 come on now, I bet the dealers aren't even using full synthetic at 3750 mile OCI.
It's complete scare tactics.. I had a 2008 Sonata that had 7500 mile OCI using conventional. 10k synthetic. I get it the newer cars with GDI is bad news but to waste synthetic oil at 3750 come on now, I bet the dealers aren't even using full synthetic at 3750 mile OCI.
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How would the dealer even know your driving patterns, unless you told them?
They better give free oil changes for life being an inconvenience to the customer bringing their car back for service every 3750 miles. YEAH RIGHT.. I'm sure they're charging full synthetic oil change prices getting you in every 3750 dumping conventional in the sump. Why are we going backwards with "modern car technology" better oils yet we magically designed a way to shorten its service intervals.
Originally Posted By: hpb
How would the dealer even know your driving patterns, unless you told them?
Some cars, like both my Jeeps keep track of hours. You have to know how to access the feature. I think a lot of cars have this feature. With that and some simple math one can determine a lot about how fast a vehicle is driven, or how many hours it took to log the miles, since the car rolled off the line, or between OCIs, if someone wanted to use it. IIRC average speed for my wife's Jeep is in the neighborhood of 10-12 mph over the OCI. I think most people would be shocked to know just how fast their average speed is.
If a person is really concerned or has any doubt get a used oil analysis. Everything else is opinion and educated guesses.
How would the dealer even know your driving patterns, unless you told them?
Some cars, like both my Jeeps keep track of hours. You have to know how to access the feature. I think a lot of cars have this feature. With that and some simple math one can determine a lot about how fast a vehicle is driven, or how many hours it took to log the miles, since the car rolled off the line, or between OCIs, if someone wanted to use it. IIRC average speed for my wife's Jeep is in the neighborhood of 10-12 mph over the OCI. I think most people would be shocked to know just how fast their average speed is.
If a person is really concerned or has any doubt get a used oil analysis. Everything else is opinion and educated guesses.
My understanding, whatever the OM says/states it is for warranty purposes. IME Hyun/Kia most any kind of driving fell under the OM "severe" category. Not having OLM of any kind, IMO this how Hy/Kia keeps that advertised powertrain warranty supported.
Originally Posted By: Sayjac
My understanding, whatever the OM says/states it is for warranty purposes. IME Hyun/Kia most any kind of driving fell under the OM "severe" category. Not having OLM of any kind, IMO this how Hy/Kia keeps that advertised powertrain warranty supported.
That and Hyundai specs the more robust 5W30 oil with an ACEA A5 rating for the turbo vehicles, not the ACEA A1 spec most all 5W30's are.
And what is even dumber what I've heard, Hyundai recommends Quaker State which doesn't have a 5W30 A5 oil that I know of.
My understanding, whatever the OM says/states it is for warranty purposes. IME Hyun/Kia most any kind of driving fell under the OM "severe" category. Not having OLM of any kind, IMO this how Hy/Kia keeps that advertised powertrain warranty supported.
That and Hyundai specs the more robust 5W30 oil with an ACEA A5 rating for the turbo vehicles, not the ACEA A1 spec most all 5W30's are.
And what is even dumber what I've heard, Hyundai recommends Quaker State which doesn't have a 5W30 A5 oil that I know of.
Originally Posted By: skyactiv
Originally Posted By: Sayjac
My understanding, whatever the OM says/states it is for warranty purposes. IME Hyun/Kia most any kind of driving fell under the OM "severe" category. Not having OLM of any kind, IMO this how Hy/Kia keeps that advertised powertrain warranty supported.
That and Hyundai specs the more robust 5W30 oil with an ACEA A5 rating for the turbo vehicles, not the ACEA A1 spec most all 5W30's are.
And what is even dumber what I've heard, Hyundai recommends Quaker State which doesn't have a 5W30 A5 oil that I know of.
Yes, it's in the owners manual.
And Kia recommends TOTAL Lubricants.
Originally Posted By: Sayjac
My understanding, whatever the OM says/states it is for warranty purposes. IME Hyun/Kia most any kind of driving fell under the OM "severe" category. Not having OLM of any kind, IMO this how Hy/Kia keeps that advertised powertrain warranty supported.
That and Hyundai specs the more robust 5W30 oil with an ACEA A5 rating for the turbo vehicles, not the ACEA A1 spec most all 5W30's are.
And what is even dumber what I've heard, Hyundai recommends Quaker State which doesn't have a 5W30 A5 oil that I know of.
Yes, it's in the owners manual.
And Kia recommends TOTAL Lubricants.
IMO if your car sees a lot of short trips where the engine doesn't spend 15-30 minutes at normal operating temperature it's severe.
All of my cars fall in to that category these days so they get shorter oil change intervals and get to stretch their legs on the weekends.
Especially the GTI with its turbo and FSI engine. 3-4k OCI's.
All of my cars fall in to that category these days so they get shorter oil change intervals and get to stretch their legs on the weekends.
Especially the GTI with its turbo and FSI engine. 3-4k OCI's.
I had the same question with my MAZDA CX5 DI. 5,000 or 7,000 mile?. I split the difference at 6,000 mile OCI and did a used oil analysis which was excellent. After break-in or at ~ 8 to 10K miles do a used oil analysis to answer the question. I'll bet you can do the 7,500 OC with room to spare. Ed
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I just purchased a 2018 Kona AWD Limited. I installed a Fram Ultra at 50 miles. I dumped the factory fill at 100 miles, and put in Mobil 1 Extended 5-30 and 1 Qt of 0w-40 Redline to get more moly into the mix. I will be running this oil for 1,000 miles (2 weeks away)and doing an oil analysis. I do very short trips to work, 10 miles takes 13 minutes in the morning and that 10 miles takes 30 minutes coming home. I like to get into boost when I can, so I am a severe driver there. I have already "gained oil"-->(fuel) 1/8 of a qt est., so I am thinking I will be closer to the 4,000 mile oil change mark. I will be doing oil analysis on all my oil dumps. I will also be doing some towing of a small boat if the DCT will not hit over heat warnings right away. It shouldn't since it will mostly be local and not to much traffic. That same subSUV/trans is rated for 2800lbs in Europe w/brakes and I am at 900lbs.
My next oil fill will be Amsoil Sig Series 5w30/0w-40 cocktail. And in Minnesota winters I am still up in the air on which oil I will be running, It has to be some form of 0w oil and as of now it looks like Mobil 1 ESP 0w30 or Mobil 1 ESP 0w40 that is used in the Corvette, so I can save some $$ vs Amsoil I use in the summer and in hard use/heat. I may just convert over to Mobil 1 ESP 0w-40 year round if my oil analysis # comes out good on that oil, but then again I bet the 0w-40 will get a premium price so it may not be far from Amsoil, we will see. I use the largest local Caterpillar truck dealership in Minneapolis for my oil analysis since they are $19 and they have a nice modern lab.
My next oil fill will be Amsoil Sig Series 5w30/0w-40 cocktail. And in Minnesota winters I am still up in the air on which oil I will be running, It has to be some form of 0w oil and as of now it looks like Mobil 1 ESP 0w30 or Mobil 1 ESP 0w40 that is used in the Corvette, so I can save some $$ vs Amsoil I use in the summer and in hard use/heat. I may just convert over to Mobil 1 ESP 0w-40 year round if my oil analysis # comes out good on that oil, but then again I bet the 0w-40 will get a premium price so it may not be far from Amsoil, we will see. I use the largest local Caterpillar truck dealership in Minneapolis for my oil analysis since they are $19 and they have a nice modern lab.
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Id keep it at a 5k interval, and change it on the 5's and 0's, 5k 10k 15k etc. easier to keep track of and still getting value out of the interval.
Originally Posted By: Mainia
I just purchased a 2018 Kona AWD Limited. I installed a Fram Ultra at 50 miles. I dumped the factory fill at 100 miles, and put in Mobil 1 Extended 5-30 and 1 Qt of 0w-40 Redline to get more moly into the mix. I will be running this oil for 1,000 miles (2 weeks away)and doing an oil analysis. I do very short trips to work, 10 miles takes 13 minutes in the morning and that 10 miles takes 30 minutes coming home. I like to get into boost when I can, so I am a severe driver there. I have already "gained oil"-->(fuel) 1/8 of a qt est., so I am thinking I will be closer to the 4,000 mile oil change mark. I will be doing oil analysis on all my oil dumps. I will also be doing some towing of a small boat if the DCT will not hit over heat warnings right away. It shouldn't since it will mostly be local and not to much traffic. That same subSUV/trans is rated for 2800lbs in Europe w/brakes and I am at 900lbs.
My next oil fill will be Amsoil Sig Series 5w30/0w-40 cocktail. And in Minnesota winters I am still up in the air on which oil I will be running, It has to be some form of 0w oil and as of now it looks like Mobil 1 ESP 0w30 or Mobil 1 ESP 0w40 that is used in the Corvette, so I can save some $$ vs Amsoil I use in the summer and in hard use/heat. I may just convert over to Mobil 1 ESP 0w-40 year round if my oil analysis # comes out good on that oil, but then again I bet the 0w-40 will get a premium price so it may not be far from Amsoil, we will see. I use the largest local Caterpillar truck dealership in Minneapolis for my oil analysis since they are $19 and they have a nice modern lab.
Why?
I just purchased a 2018 Kona AWD Limited. I installed a Fram Ultra at 50 miles. I dumped the factory fill at 100 miles, and put in Mobil 1 Extended 5-30 and 1 Qt of 0w-40 Redline to get more moly into the mix. I will be running this oil for 1,000 miles (2 weeks away)and doing an oil analysis. I do very short trips to work, 10 miles takes 13 minutes in the morning and that 10 miles takes 30 minutes coming home. I like to get into boost when I can, so I am a severe driver there. I have already "gained oil"-->(fuel) 1/8 of a qt est., so I am thinking I will be closer to the 4,000 mile oil change mark. I will be doing oil analysis on all my oil dumps. I will also be doing some towing of a small boat if the DCT will not hit over heat warnings right away. It shouldn't since it will mostly be local and not to much traffic. That same subSUV/trans is rated for 2800lbs in Europe w/brakes and I am at 900lbs.
My next oil fill will be Amsoil Sig Series 5w30/0w-40 cocktail. And in Minnesota winters I am still up in the air on which oil I will be running, It has to be some form of 0w oil and as of now it looks like Mobil 1 ESP 0w30 or Mobil 1 ESP 0w40 that is used in the Corvette, so I can save some $$ vs Amsoil I use in the summer and in hard use/heat. I may just convert over to Mobil 1 ESP 0w-40 year round if my oil analysis # comes out good on that oil, but then again I bet the 0w-40 will get a premium price so it may not be far from Amsoil, we will see. I use the largest local Caterpillar truck dealership in Minneapolis for my oil analysis since they are $19 and they have a nice modern lab.
Why?
Originally Posted By: hpb
How would the dealer even know your driving patterns, unless you told them?
The computer keeps track of your driving patterns; revs, idling, acceleration patterns, shifting patterns, braking...everything.
I think the majority of people's daily drivers fall into the severe service category, but don't want to admit it. I would split the difference in your case at 5k OCI's and do a couple of used oil analysis and use that information to see if you need to do them more frequently. My personal preference is to never go longer than 5k, but I don't own any turbos, or I might.
How would the dealer even know your driving patterns, unless you told them?
The computer keeps track of your driving patterns; revs, idling, acceleration patterns, shifting patterns, braking...everything.
I think the majority of people's daily drivers fall into the severe service category, but don't want to admit it. I would split the difference in your case at 5k OCI's and do a couple of used oil analysis and use that information to see if you need to do them more frequently. My personal preference is to never go longer than 5k, but I don't own any turbos, or I might.
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