Got a Fumoto in all vehicles. Hard to beat a Fumoto.
Your Oil Drain Valve Brand and experience
- Thread starter kgb007stb
- Start date
- Status
Once I saw a FRAM Sure Drain at Wal-Mart and decided to get the one for my 300M. (3.5L engine). After I got it home I tried to install it, but I found that the drain plug on the 300M was slightly tapered... such that the sure drain was not an adequate fit. I had to take it back.
If your car has a tranny drain plug is it safe to "ASSUME" that the manufacturer uses the same diameter hole as the engine oil pan? Also since some of us live in the colder or sea region where salt is used, has anybody experience ahy rust build up that may effect the lever action?
No to the question about the trans. The drain and fill plugs on my truck's transmission are larger than the engine drain plug.
I live in Jersey and have never had a rust issue over time.
From their site:
Q. How long will my Engine Oil Drain Valve last?
A. Your Engine Oil Drain Valve is constructed of corrosion resistant forged brass and stainless steel. To gain the approval of motor vehicle manufacturers it was subjected to minus 40 Degrees Fahrenheit temperatures. It endured 336 hours of salt spray and thousands of openings and closings and still functioned perfectly. You can expect the Engine Oil Drain Valve to outlast your engine.
I have fumoto's on both of my vehicles. I love them. Makes changing the oil a more pleasant experience... except for changing the filter... thats always somewhat messy.
Quote:
Quote:
Yeah...me too.....I don't get the drain valve...I only unscrew the drain bolt 3 times a year...
They make it easier to control the flow. On some vehicles, like my truck, the oil stream goes out pretty far with the regular drain plug and can make a mess. You have to get the catch pan positioned just right and hope that most of the oil makes it in. On some vehicles, like 4WD Explorers, the oil stream can hit suspension parts and go everywhere. Being able to open a valve with a hose on the end can be a big help.
I have a giant catch pan 20" diameter...if you can't hit that thing you need to hang up your wrench. Plus the penalty for a bad Fumoto valve is a $10,000 engine job. Sorry, I like my drain bolt just fine.
I can't argue that .
That is a good idea.Quote:
Quote:
Yeah...me too.....I don't get the drain valve...I only unscrew the drain bolt 3 times a year...
They make it easier to control the flow. On some vehicles, like my truck, the oil stream goes out pretty far with the regular drain plug and can make a mess. You have to get the catch pan positioned just right and hope that most of the oil makes it in. On some vehicles, like 4WD Explorers, the oil stream can hit suspension parts and go everywhere. Being able to open a valve with a hose on the end can be a big help.
I have a Suredrain on my truck and the Wife's Honda. I've had no leaks, find them easy to use, like the low profile, like the "dust" cap, and would buy/use them again.
Just an FYI, I *think* Fram has discontinued the SureDrain valve. You may still be able to locate one at your local auto parts store though, or perhaps on eBay or other online vendors.
Yep, eBay is your best bet. A handful of stores may still have them in stock, but they are running out.
Stock drain plugs on both cars i've maintained. Works for me
Another stupid one: should I be worried about a valve sticking in so far into the pan that some of the heavier crud and metal shavings that settle to the bottom would not be able to drain out due to the valve’s profile leavig a larger sediment at the botton of the pan? Before each oil change I cleann my oil pan thoroughly, no matter what filter/oil set up I have used all cars always had fine shavings along with dirt or other debris that settled at the bottom of the pan.
One hopes that when changing the oil at operating temperature, all the debris would be suspended in the oil solution, but as my experience shows either the debris was too heavy to be picked up by the oil pump or my filter was not doing its job.
One hopes that when changing the oil at operating temperature, all the debris would be suspended in the oil solution, but as my experience shows either the debris was too heavy to be picked up by the oil pump or my filter was not doing its job.
Fumoto is a great product. Liked the quality of the first so much, I did the whole stable. No more hunting for drain plug after several "frosty beverages", trips for the crush washers, or the stipped-out drain hole. It is a well thought out product of excellent machining! Hard to find at stores though, adout $30 to your door each.
Patman
Staff member
Quote:
Stock drain plugs on both cars i've maintained. Works for me
For BITOGers though, drain valves work much better for a number of reasons. It allows you to easily drain just a little bit of oil if you want to take a sample for analysis but not drain the entire sump. It also makes the sampling less messy too, since the flow of oil is not as fast. And another good reason is that you won't ever drop the drain plug in the catch pan ever again!
Just ordred one(F103) and it sticks out a bit too much so I can't use it.
.
Have used Fumoto's for years.
Works in the Camry but not the RAV4 or latest generation Corolla.
The only two vehicles I've ever owned without one.
For sale in the "Items For Sale" section if intersted.
Have used Fumoto's for years.
Works in the Camry but not the RAV4 or latest generation Corolla.
The only two vehicles I've ever owned without one.
For sale in the "Items For Sale" section if intersted.
Fumoto...both cars. Great product.
I put a Fumoto in my '88 Trooper back in 1989. When I traded it for a '96 in July 1996 I switched the Fumoto over since it fit the new vehicle. It is still working fine today in my '96 Trooper (123k miles) - never leaked a drop and I have had it in some pretty ugly terrain in Central Mexico (I lived there for 5-1/2 years)!
- Status
Similar threads
