your choice of 5w20 conventional

[BlueOvalFitter]

Originally Posted By: donnyj08
Is it ok to use synthetic? I know a lot of guys use RP. The manual says to not use synthetic, and feelings seem very mixed on the synthetic/conventional debate about the rotary.

I normally use "synthetic"oils. Mostly gp III,s. but I thought maybe it was safest just to follow mazdas instructions.

Why would Mazda recommend NOT to use synthetic oil?

 

[donnyj08]

Because the rotary burns oil by design. Synthetic supposedly leaves behind a residue or film instead of burning off all the way. I don't fully understand either.

 

[dave1251]

Here is one of the many discussions I can recall on the subject.

https://bobistheoilguy.com/forums/posts/2094079/

 

[donnyj08]

Thanks, dave1251

 

[dave1251]

Your welcome if you want anymore information just PM. I will provide what I have.

 

[Clevy]

I'm sure I saw a thread where a RX-8 owner was trying to trade some top notch synthetic oil for plain Jane castrol gtx. I'm sure he said that gtx was what they were having the best luck with.

 

[jrustles]

Originally Posted By: donnyj08


What do you recommend? Also how does a tc-w3 compare to idemitsu rotary premix? Am I better off to use tv-w3 from Walmart or the specialty mix? I've heard marine 2 cycle oils are not great under high heat


Idemitsu makes some of the best lubricants for the Wankel. I wouldn't hesitate to use their premix, or their synthetic 0w30! Basically, any pre-mix oil is better than burning crankcase oil.

Originally Posted By: donnyj08
Because the rotary burns oil by design. Synthetic supposedly leaves behind a residue or film instead of burning off all the way. I don't fully understand either.


As far as I'm concerned, there has never been any science to back this up. It's superstition at this point, especially considering most accessible synthetics are GrIII, which didn't really exist on the market way back in the Cretacious period when some 'official' forbade synthetic oil. It's been said that the "real" reason that all of that started was when a certain manufacturer of synthetic oils withdrew sponsorship.

In fact, if I wanted the cleanest burning, off-the-shelf PCMO, it would be PU without a doubt. GTL burns very clean.

 

[Keith_Stone]

Originally Posted By: Falken
No, the Fit is just a little 4 banger 1.5 L SOHC i-vtec.

It is a smooth high-revving engine that gives 117 hp at 4+ grand so it is high-strung and I don't mind the idea of keeping the rings well lubricated in the top end.

A bit of UCL smooths out the idle, but there are many cleaners and fuel stabilizers in 2t engine oil.

People use TC-W3 rated 2-t engine oil to increase the sealing properties of the apex seals in the Rotary. It helps with ring seal in every engine though. And reduce friction.

A main reason people feel they want to use a UCL is to counter the ethanol in gas, as it removes lubricity from your top ring.

It also helps control hard carbon deposits.

This is the site that started it all:

http://www.ls1.com/forums/f48/been-testing-oil-91206/

Try it out! See how you like it!


Is the Pennzoil marine syn blend suitable?

 

[Falken]

Keith, any TC-W3 rated marine 2t premix oil works.

People on this site just stay away from WM Supertech, as some say it smells really bad so makes using it problematic (stinks up your trunk).

Right now I'm using Shell Nautilus, which is probably the same as any Pennzoil 2t oil as it is made by Shell as well.

I have a bunch of Canadian Tire Formula 1 TC-W3 rated outboard premix that is also made by Shell.

Shell 2t premix has no smell at all and is dyed blue. Just be sure it says TC-W3 rated NMMA on the front so you don't leave metallic ash deposits in your catalytic converter.

 

[Falken]

Ooops am i supposed to vouch for a 5w20 conventional?

Bar none, PYB.