You MUST Use a "Premium" Filter

[TC]

Sorry -- I couldn't resist using a Madison Avenue headline to grab your attention. But I think you'll probably agree with me on my conclusion that a "premium" synthetic media oil filter is the only way to go for your engine. I wanted some objective, authoritative information on just what level of filtration is necessary with an automotive oil filter. So, for your consideration, I've compiled here what I found. No NASA level science goin’ on here, just a layman's common sense. It's lengthy and a bit dry, yet is powerful stuff nonetheless since choosing the right filter can DOUBLE your engine life. Coming from various studies, some of the information conflicts slightly. Sources are in parentheses at the bottom. THE DETAILS -Metal-to-metal clearances in an operating gasoline engine typically vary from 3.8 to 10 microns (1). -Metal-to-metal clearances in operating gasoline and diesel engines typically vary from 2 to 22 microns (2). -Therefore, particles from 2-22 microns are most likely to cause damage (2). Particles under 2 microns will pass through without scuffing (2). Particles over 10-22 microns may cause damage if they wedge between moving parts, but should eventually be trapped by any name brand filter after repeated passes (11). -"Controlling the abrasive contaminants in the range of 2-22 microns in the lube oil is necessary for controlling (gasoline and diesel) engine wear" (2). -"Numerous tests and studies have shown that solid contaminants in the 1-15 micron range are responsible for the majority of normal wear within a (diesel) engine" (3). -Most oil filters use a non-synthetic paper media (6,11). -Typical paper media captures 40% of 10 micron particles, 60% at 20 microns, 93% at 30 microns, and 97% at 40 microns (4). In general, paper filters capture almost all 40 micron particles, and about half of 15-20 micron particles in single-pass tests (2,5,6). “Factory (paper) filters are only effective in controlling particles 15 microns and larger” (3). -Compared to a low-end 40 micron filter, switching to 30 micron filtration reduces engine wear by 50%. Switching from 40 to 15 micron filtration reduces engine wear by 70% (2). -Paper filters (like most paper) are made from ground wood pulp, resulting in somewhat random shaped and sized fibers/chunks, allowing for microscopic voids (11). -Fine synthetic (man made) fibers tend to be uniform in size, shape, and texture (11). -"Premium" filters typically include a blend of up to 100% fiberglass and polyester to fill in voids in the paper (7,11). Synthetic media has also come about since acids formed over extended 7,500 mi drain intervals have been known to damage paper media (12). If a filter's packaging doesn't mention synthetic fibers, assume it has none. -As a group, premium filters typically capture almost all 10-20 micron particles, and about half of 5-10 micron particles (6,8,9,10,11). -For street driving, "racing" or "sporting" filters should probably be avoided since they often -- and appropriately -- emphasize flow over filtration (8). Additional data on DIESEL engines follows. Certainly some relevance to gasoline burners as well. Source is (3). -The major contaminant produced inside diesel engines is soot, and soot has been proven to be a significant source of engine wear. -The vast majority of soot particles produced are 10 microns or smaller, with 94% of soot being 1-5 microns in size. -Over 80% of wear-generated metal particles in a diesel engine are too small to be filtered by standard (non-synthetic) paper media. -About 98% of solid contaminants generated within diesel engines, including those resulting from wear, oxidation, nitration, and acid production, are less than 10 microns in size. -Ultra-fine "UF" bypass filter systems for diesel engines are capable of reliably filtering down to the 1 micron level . -UF bypass filters for diesel engines can reduce wear from 25-50%, and up to 400% in dusty or off-road environments. CONCLUSIONS -In review, SAE studies have proven that particles 2-22 microns in size cause most wear in engines. Standard paper media generally traps all 40 micron particles, and half of 15-20 micron particles, while premium synthetic blends trap all 10-20 micron particles, and half of 5-10 micron particles (single pass tests). -To help understand how often oil gets filtered, a Taurus SHO club website suggests that those cars recirculate 100% of engine oil (crankcase capacity) three times each minute at freeway speeds (8). -One might reasonably assume that, through repeated passes, the great majority of 5-10 micron particles will eventually be trapped by a PREMIUM filter, thereby mostly (although not entirely) reaching our goal of eliminating everything in the 2-22 micron range. But for STANDARD paper media, reliably filtering down into the single digits (1-9 microns) is not likely. -Since premium filters cost only a few dollars more than standard filters, whereas an engine rebuild costs several thousand dollars, going "premium" seems an obvious, cost-effective choice. -Fans of bypass systems have it right. Clearly they do work. “The fact that UF bypass filters drastically reduce wear has been well documented by SAE” (3). -But for my 2002 Mopar, both now and in the future, I simply want the best full-flow, synthetic blend filter I can readily find at a local parts store. Without playing favorites, I'll simply say that some brands to consider include Mobil 1, Wix/NAPA Gold, Purolator PureOne, Amsoil, and Fram X2, to name a few. SOURCES (1) Industry test described by MolaKule in "Bearing Film Thickness" (2) 1988 SAE paper by AC Filter and Detroit Diesel (3) Paper by Donald Culpepper, Gulf Coast Filters, summarizing five SAE papers (4) Russ Knize, Mini-mopar oil filter study (5) Baldwin Filters website (6) Carjunky.com website (7) Filter Manufacturers' Council website (8) Ford Taurus SHO club website's tech article (9) Mobil 1 website (10) Comments in these forums by a Wix representative (11) Poster TC's opinions, suppositions, and recollections (12) Various websites

 

[dickwells]

Very interesting, but you must remember that, on this board we are all at least half a bubble off plumb, oilwise. All these discussions are mainly about tendencies and we love it. Just remember that empirical data shows vehicles going up to a million miles with dino oil and regular filters. Personally,I use Mobil 1 and Pure 1 on my newer truck and Mobil 1 and Motorcraft on the wifes old towncar, I just lost a 3.3 minivan with what turned out to be a broken piston some problems oil just can't fix.

 

[Mystic]

It is hard to find out for sure what oil filter is the best, and in the case of my new car it has an oil filter element instead of a can type oil filter. Using infromation from the internet (typing in SAE J1858), the best I have been able to figure out is that the Purolator PureOne apparently is number three. What the two brands above the Purolator PureOne are is anybodys guess.

 

[JohnBrowning]

TC We have seen much better results on this site from high flow filters. I agree bypass filtration is the way to go!! The full flow should emphasive flow! It is intersting that you bring this up. Bob is testing a car with no filter at all. [ September 27, 2003, 11:56 PM: Message edited by: JohnBrowning ]

 

[pscholte]

quote:

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Originally posted by dickwells: Very interesting, but you must remember that, on this board we are all at least half a bubble off plumb...

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dickwells, I resent your assertion...I am at least a FULL bubble off plumb, thank you very much!

 

[TC]

Cool. Thanks for the feedback. And for the record, we're ALL one or two bubbles off plumb -- heck, we're posting messages about oil filters on a Saturday night! (I wonder if Purolator can sell me something called a "Life." I could use one of those.) After numbing you folks into a coma with my "War and Peace" novella above, I'll attempt to briefly add two more tidbits: 1. I mentioned fiberglass and polyester synthetic fibers above, but there's also a third puppy called "microglass." If any of you know what the heck that is, please let us know. I'm pretty sure I once saw a "microglass" running up a tree at a park -- it looked sorta like a squirrel, only with a monkey's tail. 2. One might naturally say, "Paper? We don't need no stinkin' paper! Gimme 100% synthetic media!" And there is such a thing, of course. But Baldwin Filter's website mentions that some glass fabrics can't be bent too sharply, or will otherwise fracture, such as at the pleat folds. Therefore, they either sandwich the fabric in wire screen (maybe like Fram X2's media???), or blend it in with a paper for an overall pliable finished media. So I guess the lesson learned here is not to attempt filtering your oil through the fender of a Corvette. Unless you first apply chicken wire to both sides of the fender, of course.

 

[Dan4510]

quote:

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Originally posted by TC: 1. I mentioned fiberglass and polyester synthetic fibers above, but there's also a third puppy called "microglass." If any of you know what the heck that is, please let us know. I'm pretty sure I once saw a "microglass" running up a tree at a park -- it looked sorta like a squirrel, only with a monkey's tail. 2. One might naturally say, "Paper? We don't need no stinkin' paper! Gimme 100% synthetic media!" And there is such a thing, of course. But Baldwin Filter's website mentions that some glass fabrics can't be bent too sharply, or will otherwise fracture, such as at the pleat folds. Therefore, they either sandwich the fabric in wire screen (maybe like Fram X2's media???), or blend it in with a paper for an overall pliable finished media.

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TC, I think I can answer both your questions. Microglass is the "marketing" word for new filter technology that donaldson, fleetguard and other otr filter sellers/manufacturers are using to get very good results filter wise. Flows of 12-14gph on a fl1a equivalent filters while filtering down to 7 microns nominal (getting 50% of the 7 micron particles). Microglass is fiberglass, but used as a fiber matrix that filters extremely well and flows very easily. I did extensive searches on the web for syntec or syntech. The media is layered onto a wire mesh. First layer to be put down is a very fine, then two more layers of coarser media so that as the oil flows thru the filter, it is filtered progressively finer. THe great thing about this filter material is that the size of the fibers it is made out of can be controlled down to the nanometer. Thus, the path the oil has to take thru the material is highly consistent and gives the excellent flow. Baldwin does make an excellent filter, however, from what I gathered from their info, their process is an in house one that does not use the microglass technology. Cellulose does not have consistent fiber size. Adding fiberglass to it does buy filering efficiency, however, it does not gain flow. The problem of brittle media also exists. I have pictures up on my yahoo website if you want to see the microglass media beside cellulose media. http://f1.pg.photos.yahoo.com/ph/dan4510/lst?.dir=/My+Photos&.src=ph&.order=&.view=t&.done=http%3a//f1.pg.photos.yahoo.com/ The short filters is a fleetguad lf3487. The tall one is a baldwin b251. Both have the 3/4X16 threads and can be used in place of an fl1a. The baldwin has a two quart capacity. Dan [ September 28, 2003, 09:08 AM: Message edited by: Dan4510 ]

 

[TC]

OK, so I guess that hybrid monkey-squirrel I saw wasn't a "microglass" after all. Hey, thanks Dan. You answered my questions better than I had hoped for. That level of filtering and flow together in one media is quite impressive, indeed. Plus, it sounds like they're getting a mini version of a depth media goin' on as well, adding capacity. I've heard others on these boards and elsewhere complain "When will filter technology progess out of the 1960's?" and so-forth. Sounds like, with microglass, we're making some headway after all. I wonder if this is a technology that will be more widely used, or if there's patent or other proprietary issues going on that will limit the number of manufacturers using same. I'm sure there's more obvious limiting factors involved -- good 'ol cost-cutting, as in nothing's cheaper than old-fashioned cellulose. I'll definitely check out the StrataPore and similar products, based on your comments.

 

[edwardh1]

what category are the new "dense" Japanese filters in?

 

[Schultz]

-Paper filters (like most paper) are made from ground wood pulp, resulting in somewhat random shaped and sized fibers/chunks, allowing for microscopic voids (11). -Fine synthetic (man made) fibers tend to be uniform in size, shape, and texture (11). I have to disagree with both statements here. I seen and know how each of these media types are made. Most use the same process of grinding the fibers to the desired size and spraying the slurry (glass or cellulose) onto a moving belt. Melt blown medias are completely different. Cellulose filters can otain HEPA (99.97% of 0.3µm in single pass) & ULPA (99.99% of .1µm in single pass) without problem. Cellulose will flow comprible to glass, microglass, or glass micro fiber(GMF). If you have only a GMF filter media is has little or no strenth, paper and other syntentics are added for strength or it's colaminated with a meltblown material. Glass isn't really much added cost over cellulose. A couple points: In higher end cellulose meidas typically cotton is used. Meltblown materials are typically more coarse than cellulose and GMF. Some good sources for info are for meida manufactures are: Whatman Pall Corporation

 

[Schultz]

Cellulose filters can otain HEPA (99.97% of 0.3µm in single pass) & ULPA (99.99% of .1µm in single pass) I noticed a typo, I ment to say Cellulose filters can otain HEPA (99.97% of 3.0µm in single pass) & ULPA (99.99% of 1.0µm in single pass)

 

[MarkC]

Schultz, Any further data or thoughts about PureOne after your testing, especially regarding flow rates, etc. And maybe why the bypass setting is 12-15, while the Napa Gold is 8-11 psi?

 

[RalphPWood]

A do it yourselfer can take a pipe and stuff it with old cotton sweats and it will out filter the premium filters. For even cleaner oil he can use a longer pipe. I sent a filter to a major oil company because the stock micro glass filters couldn't clean the oil. It's a big air compressor on a drilling rig. The oil is very expensive synthetic. It is a lot less expensive to clean the oil than allow it to get dirty then drain it. I was checking in an auto parts store awhile back. The best filter they had used an element that used shredded newspapers and wood chips. I'm not sure what the wood chips are for. When it comes to cleaning oil no one has ever beat cellulose. How well cellulose cleans oil depends on how tightly it is packed in the housing and how much distance the oil travels thru the element. The flow rate and pressure also makes a difference. The company I work for furnishes me with Kimberly Clark Wypall L-30 elements for the heavy duty diesel filters. They are more like rags than paper. They furnish me with Main Street from SCA Tissue North America for the little filters. The Main Street is just the right size. The Wypall's I put two next to each other and roll enough on one to make it 6" so that it will fit snug in the big 6" hydraulic cylinder filter. The Wypalls look to be as good as toilet paper with the advantage of the paper towel size. All of the filter companies have gone to their own elements for marketing reasons. Ralph

 

[axjohn]

How important is a premium filter if your auto has over 150,000 miles on the odometer? Would such a vehichle still need the 'trap the smallest particles circulating in the oil' filter available, or would FLOW be more important for a high mileage vehichle? Wouldn't most any filter be suitable for such use (excepting Fram, of course!)?

 

[Patman]

quote:

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Originally posted by axjohn: How important is a premium filter if your auto has over 150,000 miles on the odometer? Would such a vehichle still need the 'trap the smallest particles circulating in the oil' filter available, or would FLOW be more important for a high mileage vehichle? Wouldn't most any filter be suitable for such use (excepting Fram, of course!)?

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I still think flow is a more important consideration than trying to filter out the smallest particle. Just wait until Bob posts his upcoming oil analysis report, running 3000 miles with no oil filter whatsoever!! I think the results are probably going to amaze many people on here.

 

[axjohn]

Patman, if what you say is true (and I'm not doubting it!), what filters flow the best? I'm currently using the FL1A-sized PureOne filter on my 95 Saab 900 (PL30001). May go back to using the PL14670-sized filter (which is still oversized from factory oem PF53) because I've heard rumors about possible vibration problems with oversized filters fitted in the horizontal position. Whew!

 

[TC]

Interesting comments here, Schultz (and RalphPWood). I'm no expert on paper formulation -- it sounds like you've been around that environment to some extent. Just speculation, but could it be that the papers you mention are intended more for the laboratory environment, and unsuitable for the required flow and harsh environments posed in an engine? I'm not particularly familiar with other specialty (such as laboratory) filter media. I know that the cellulose traditionally used in oil filters is good for filtration in the 15-40 micron range (per Baldwin Filter, SAE papers, and other sources). So this is clearly a coarser version of the cellulose media you've mentioned. I suspect the obvious, that they could try cellulose media that would filter down into single digit microns, but it simply wouldn't flow sufficiently, whereas 15-40 micron paper allows the oil through in quantity. For our application it seems the only media offered which filters down into the 2-22 micron range has some amount of synthetics (or maybe cotton) in it -- personally I know of no automotive oil filters offering filtration down into the single digits which use 100% cellulose media. I've pasted the following from the website of the Filter Manufacturers Council: "Typically, if only larger particles are to be removed, a very basic cellulose media is used. As the size of contamination to be removed gets smaller and smaller, the type of media changes from a more complex cellulose to blended media where cellulose and man-made fibers are blended together in various configurations. For the removal of extremely small contamination, media typically changes from one dominated by cellulose to one made exclusively from various types of man-made microfibers." Evidently a few filter manufacturers still use cotton in their media blends, and cotton waste was a primary component of car filters in the 1930s. Baldwin supposedly used rice hulls recently in at least a few of their oil filters, according to a Ford Truck enthusiasts' website, although I had trouble confirming that. According to Purolator, the Honda OEM filter bypass setting is 12 to 14 psi. WIX (NAPA Gold) builds their oil filters with a bypass setting of 8 to 11 psi, while AC Delco builds theirs to a setting of 11 to 17 psi. How much do these differences matter? I don't think anyone knows, even the engineers, and each has its own set of advantages and disadvantages. I don't know the answer to MarkC's question, but have pasted the following, posted in an earlier thread by the-host-with-the-most "BOB" himself: "According to Purolator, the Honda OEM filter bypass setting is 12 to 14 psi. WIX (NAPA Gold) builds their oil filters with a bypass setting of 8 to 11 psi, while AC Delco builds theirs to a setting of 11 to 17 psi. How much do these differences matter? I don't think anyone knows, even the engineers, and each has its own set of advantages and disadvantages. If you do lots of racing, you're probably better off with a higher bypass setting. If you do lots of cold starting, especially in the winter, or seldom change your filter, I think you're better off with a lower bypass setting. However, with few exceptions, bypass pressures for spin-on filters run in the 8 to 17 psi range, and any of them should work acceptably." In response to Axjohn's question, as long as my engine was healthy, regardless of mileage, I'd prefer a higher-end filter to defer that $4,000 rebuild, but that's my opinion. As far as flow goes, I have no expertise on the matter, but from everything I've read, as long as you change your name brand filter at intervals more frequently than the 7,500 mile extended drains that Detroit's pushing these days, the likelihood of your filter going into constant bypass due to clogging is small, except for dusty environments, of course.

 

[axjohn]

"In response to Axjohn's question, as long as my engine was healthy, regardless of mileage, I'd prefer a higher-end filter to defer that $4,000 rebuild, but that's my opinion." Thanks, TC. So which filter would be your choice? Or do you have a few you really like? K&N flows well, but who really knows how well they filter? PureOne filters well, but what about flow? Decisions decisions! TIA

 

[Patman]

quote:

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Originally posted by axjohn: Patman, if what you say is true (and I'm not doubting it!), what filters flow the best?

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There are a lot of different racing filters out there which flow very well, such as Moroso or CM racing, although they cater mostly to the small block Chevy crowd and other typical hi-po applications. For commonly available stuff, the K&N flows very well, plus the STP/Supertech filter did very well on Bob's initial round of filter flow testing. So did Amsoil's filter. The Fram did the best on his test, however I suspect that one particular unit may have had it's bypass stuck open, since his test on their Toughguard filter showed it to flow terribly.

 

[TC]

Axjohn, any of the five brands I mentioned in my original post (at top of page) appear well made and certainly have their fans, and Patman has offered some good advice on free-flowing "racing" media. The Taurus SHO enthusiasts' website mentions that although their media look the same and both are made by Champion, the "deep cleaning" Mobil 1 filter contains more synthetic fiber and cleans down to 10 microns, while the "sporting" K&N is biased towards flow and cleans down to 20 microns. This might present a good real-world example of increased filtration reducing flow to some degree, and vice-versa (although I don't have actual flow numbers). Personally I'm switching from Bosch Premium to Wix/Napa Gold/CarQuest Premium since the latter (at least for my part #) combines the three goodies I like to see: a media which contains some amount of synthetic fibers, a silicone anti-drainback valve (as opposed to nitrile), and a bypass valve at the top end of the filter (by the threaded base) so that bypassed oil doesn't theoretically "wash" debris off the filter and back into the engine. But there's several good premium brands out there -- go to the parts store, stare at their boxes for a while, and then buy the one that makes you warm & fuzzy!