yamaha yz250f

[2005tundra2002yz250f]

I have a 250f(4 stroke, 13,500 rpm) dirt bike. The engine oil is used in the transmission as well with only a mesh oil filter. Ive never had any problems using yamalube 20w40 since it has been new but was wondering what the board would recomend. Mobil 1 red cap? Would that be ok with the clutch?
I usually drain my oil every 8 hours(about 2 rides), or every race. AIr filter gets cleaned when the oil is done.
Any thoughts would be appreciated.
Thanks,
Joe

 

[sub_zero]

I never had any kind of luck using auto oil in my bike. Tried in my ZX9R, WR400F and CBR929RR. Clutch feel was total crap, mind you the clutch worked but was really useless as a performance clutch.

The whole episode with auto oil really detracted from going fast and feeling cool.

I believe the problem lies with the friction modifiers added to modern auto oils. Some will say they aren't used in the heavier grades - that may be so, it's also true that mister mobil 1 15w50 wasn't intending for his lube to be used in a motorcycle.

Generally a lube tht is rated API SG is suitable for use in a motorcycle, at least that's what most manuals to 2004 say. Personally I use Motul 5100 10w40 in all my bikes, an ester based synthetic, it's a dream.

Use a good oil in the bike, I think they all do the job as far as protection is concerned, it's really clutch feel you're after, especially with the 250.

Ride On.

 

[tmorris1]

quote:

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Originally posted by 2005tundra2002yz250f:

quote:

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Originally posted by sub_zero:
I never had any kind of luck using auto oil in my bike. Tried in my ZX9R, WR400F and CBR929RR. Clutch feel was total crap, mind you the clutch worked but was really useless as a performance clutch.

The whole episode with auto oil really detracted from going fast and feeling cool.

I believe the problem lies with the friction modifiers added to modern auto oils. Some will say they aren't used in the heavier grades - that may be so, it's also true that mister mobil 1 15w50 wasn't intending for his lube to be used in a motorcycle.

Generally a lube tht is rated API SG is suitable for use in a motorcycle, at least that's what most manuals to 2004 say. Personally I use Motul 5100 10w40 in all my bikes, an ester based synthetic, it's a dream.

Use a good oil in the bike, I think they all do the job as far as protection is concerned, it's really clutch feel you're after, especially with the 250.

Ride On.

---

Thanks. I thought the Mobil 1 red cap was friction modifier free, and all the others like green cap, blue cap, etc, were for cars and had the modifiers. I'll have to go take a look. I'm looking for a good oil that is cheap since I change it often. I can get the red cap for 19.88 for 5 quarts at walmart. Not bad for a full syn.
Thanks,
Joe

---

The red cap M1 now has some friction modifiers in it. Your mileage may vary as some people have good luck with it. I personally wouldn't use it in a bike. It isn't worth burning a clutch up for a $ or 2 more. I have had good luck with M1 MX4T 10W40 or the Amsoil 10W40 which are both JASO MA rated friction modifier free. The Amsoil is a couple buck a qt cheaper and seems to work good.

 

[tmorris1]

A lot of guys have used Shell Rotella conventional 5W40 diesel oil with good results also. It is supposed to be friction modifier free.

 

[clutcher]

I've had great luck using Yamalube products in all my 4 strokes over the years. My current bike a 2000 XR400 with a 440 kit and all the hot rod mods has the best clutch feel with Yanmalube. The older Europeans 4 strokes I had all ran the best using Yamalube. I have experimented with Motul, Bell-Ray, etc. and I found Yamalube to work fine and the best bang for the buck.

 

[2005tundra2002yz250f]

quote:

---

Originally posted by sub_zero:
I never had any kind of luck using auto oil in my bike. Tried in my ZX9R, WR400F and CBR929RR. Clutch feel was total crap, mind you the clutch worked but was really useless as a performance clutch.

The whole episode with auto oil really detracted from going fast and feeling cool.

I believe the problem lies with the friction modifiers added to modern auto oils. Some will say they aren't used in the heavier grades - that may be so, it's also true that mister mobil 1 15w50 wasn't intending for his lube to be used in a motorcycle.

Generally a lube tht is rated API SG is suitable for use in a motorcycle, at least that's what most manuals to 2004 say. Personally I use Motul 5100 10w40 in all my bikes, an ester based synthetic, it's a dream.

Use a good oil in the bike, I think they all do the job as far as protection is concerned, it's really clutch feel you're after, especially with the 250.

Ride On.

---

Thanks. I thought the Mobil 1 red cap was friction modifier free, and all the others like green cap, blue cap, etc, were for cars and had the modifiers. I'll have to go take a look. I'm looking for a good oil that is cheap since I change it often. I can get the red cap for 19.88 for 5 quarts at walmart. Not bad for a full syn.
Thanks,
Joe

 

[drive it forever]

I think yamalube 20w40 is in my opinion, a good motorcycle oil, especially in terms of shifting and clutch feel. Have used it in my 85' kawasaki gpz550 with excellent results. I dont think you will gain anything by usuing a more expensive oil over this one except for the ability to run longer oci's if its a synthetic.

 

[wileyE]

In my road bikes new "any oil" always restores the shift and clutch feel. After about 1500 miles I start to notice a difference. This has been true with synthetic, mineral, m/c, car, truck oils. I've tried alot of them. Ive run aircooled bike across the 100degree desert for hours wide open. They all foam out and turn to water crap, doesn't seem to matter what the brand or quality. The thing that will make that motor last is air filteration, spend your time and energy there. I've been inside alot of 4 stroke dirt motors and they all show "sandblasting" on the intake valve and seat and piston scratching. K&N filters are the worst. Sticky oiled foam sealed to the box good. Stock foam is usually better than anything that claims to be higher flow.