XC70 AC condenser R&R guide?

[Cmobile]

I Have a 2015 XC70 (P3 Chassis) that I want to replace condenser & compressor on.

Lots of tutorials or P2 chassis, but my Google prowess seems to bel lacking these days and no joy on P3 tutorials.

Anyone have any info? Bad timing, but I'm putting my house on the market, so I was hoping for some guidance as time is limited.


TL_DR backstory...
Clutch went out and wouldn't engage. Mag is on when AC is on, but no engagement. Pulled clutch, and a fibrous ring, maybe a dust seal(?) Fell out in pieces. Clutch surface looked ok. Upon further inspection, the groove in the compressor housing that holds the circlip, and thus the pulley, was cracked. The housing groove that holds the ring was hanging on by a thread of aluminum.

I put it back together without the circlip and the AC works, but, without that circlip, the pulley could conceivably walk, the outer clutch plate would prevent it from falling off, but might engage the AC. Been running for a week now without issue. The parts just came in. Found a shop that will evacuate, let me replace parts, then they will pull vacuum, check for leaks, then recharge.

I'm packing, cleaning the house to list it for an upcoming move, so I'm hoping to save some time from me trial and error, pulling things off to get the condenser removed.


Thanks in advance
~C

 

[Cmobile]

Got it done. Pulled out the condenser from the top by removing the slam panel, or upper radiator support. AC compressor was easy.

A little time consuming, but i didn't have to drain the coolant.

Put it on a vacuum with a Autozone rented vacuum pump, as soon as I got the AC parts replaced. Ran VAC pump a few hours in the evening, then I closed the valves on my gage set and shut off the pump. The next morning, it was still holding vacuum (gage didn't move). This morning, I ran the vacuum pump for a few hours while I reassembled the bumper, trim, and rest of the car. All looks good.

I Have an appointment with the shop the evacuated the ssystem tomorrow. They will run a leak check and recharge ttomorrw.

 

[Cmobile]

The shop leak tested and put refrigerant back in. Was able to chill a side of beef,
But today, no AC.

Clutch engages when AC button is on, and alternately disengages when AC button off, but no cooling. Not even a little. No noticable temp difference with AC on, or off.

When I get home, I'll put gauges on it, and check for leaks with the UV light.

Does the low pressure switch prevent the clutch from engaging when the charge is to low?

 

[mk378]

When there is a leak it will stop cooling long before the low pressure switch cuts out. With the switch on the high side only a tiny amount of refrigerant is needed to keep the pressure enough to close it.

It is important to leak test after adding refrigerant since there are some leaks that leak only under pressure not vacuum.

 

[Cmobile]

Thanks!

 

[brages]

Why did you replace the condenser?

 

[Cmobile]

Best practice, I guess. When replacing compressor, it's often a good idea to replace condenser and dryer. This unit has the dryer sock in the side tube of the condenser. Comes as a package.

Not sure it needed it per se', since the old compressor only had a failed clutch, but the condenser did have its share of dented fins, bugs and grime from the last 10 years of use. Seemed like a good idea.

 

[Cmobile]

Update:
AC did not work during my commute home. I parked the car in the garage. 3 hours later I went to hook up manifold gage set and AC started working.

Here is a picc of the high side (R134a) last evening while AC was blowing cold. It would fluctuate based on clutch engagement.

I didn't connect low side as that requires removing the cowl, wipers, trim etc to gain access to the false firewall area.

Will check at lunch to see if there are any changes .