Would this cause a creak?

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My Subaru has started making a creaking noise. I originally thought it was only when I would turn right but it seems that there may need to be some suspension involvement as well (such as a rough road). I had the car at the shop today for something else and asked them to check it out, but of course it did not make a sound! I looked around underneath for something obviously wrong and the closest thing I could find is an accordion-like boot that has a tear and no longer seals. I can try to get a pic up if needed. I read online that other prime candidates are ball joints and tie rods (it steers fine and straight).
Any thoughts?
 
If a boot is torn, contaminates can get inside(dirt, debris). I don't know if it would cause a creak, more like a grind/friction noise and possibly play in that component.

I was experiencing a rattle/play in my suspension driving on uneven roads which turned out to be 1 loose and 2 damaged sway bar links on my 07 G6 that had the rubber torn and caused all sorts of rattle/play noise. Car had 32k miles on it.
 
On a 97 Legacy-

Sway bar bushings and endlinks would be my first suspect. Generally CV shaft, balljoint, and steering component failures show up as a knock, pop, or clicking. Generally when we have customers in at the dealership with a creaking noise, it's from either sway bar parts or control arm bushings.
 
What is the best way to find out what it is? It will need to go back to the shop this week so I can have them do it if I cannot but I think I need to tell them where to look. Also, this has been making the noise pretty consistently for the past few days EXCEPT this morning. So not all the time (not sure if that helps).
 
Temperature and moisture content can make noises come and go. I'd say when you take it back in to have them check it out again. Take a close look at your sway bar attaching points and control arm bushings. They may find the culprit there.
 
The right way to know if the balljoints are bad on your car is to raise the front wheels, push and pull on the wheel to see if it moves, then put a pry bat between the control arm and spindle, and if the gap between the 2 widens when you pry, the ball joint is no good.

Most mechanics do not do the second step, and that is a big mistake.

I don't remember if the balljoints on your car are part of the control arm, or press fit to the spindle. If the balljoint is part of the control arm, just buy a new arm, it will be easier and cheaper than getting someone to punch out the old joint, plus bushings over 6 years old and exposed to road salt are questionable. If the balljoint is press fit to the spindle, you can remove the spindle, take the spindle to a mechanic, and pay the mechanic $25 cash to press the new part in. Don't buy cheap ball joints, or you will be doing this job again and again at your expense.
 
That torn boot is probably a C/V joint.
Get it fixed ASAP. After about 2 weeks, the ingestion of water and dirt, and the loss of grease, pukes the joint.
The creak could be anything Try checking the sway bar end links.
 
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