Would 5W-20 Synthetic BLEND = 10W-30 FULL SYN?

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Ford dealer says to use their 5W-20 Motorcraft synthetic blend.
Our 1999 Expedition medical emergency vehicle has 116K.
I'm worried that 5W-20 is now too thin for 116K.
Wal-Mart has 10w30 FULL SYNTHETIC "High Mileage" (for 75k +) for only $12/5 qt bottle.
Would that be better?
This vehicle sometimes travels 100mph on I-70 and I-25 taking blood to distant hospitals. I assume Full Synthetic oil would be better.
What is your advice?
Thank you,
Robert
 
Your dealer is sort of right. The Amsoil site recommends either 5W20 or 0W30 and will likely recommend their new 0W20. The site also recommends the oil you use meet 1. Use Ford part no. XO-5W20-QSP or equivalent
motor oil meeting Ford specification WSS-M2C153-H.

Full synthetic is generally better than a synthetic blend. I think the 10W30 would be a little thick and recommend sticking to the previously mentioned viscosities meeting the Ford specifications.
 
MC Synthetic Blend is highly regarded on this website. I would stick with the 5w-20 just as the manufacture recommends. It's been tested thru the summer heat & winter cold during both local & highway driving. Good luck!

Just as important, make sure you use a high quality (Motorcraft, Wix, etc) oil filter.
 
By the way....
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if it's not burning or leaking oil, i wouldn't use the High Mileage oils...stick with MC blend...5W-20 and if it does start consuming "too much" (my 2001 5.4L uses 1-1.5 qts every 4k or so) then try 5w30 MC blend.
 
Use 5w-20 PP or MC. Like he said, if comsumption gets high, by all means bump up to a 5w30. If the engine is started cold and then hammered on to get to 100MPH, using a block heater would prolong the life of the heads and valve train. This enigne does not have cam bearings so starting it with low oil flow, will eventually ruin the head.
 
Wal*Mart has a 5w30 synthetic that would be more appropriate. The 10w30 HM Synthetic is nice oil, but likely thicker to attain the HT/HS for the claimed A3-spec. Try 5w-20 first, but if you want the 5w30 synthetic going into summer, go for it. imo, if someone uses 5w30 in a 5w-20 spec car, make sure the 5w30 is at least a SM oil, preferably a GOOD blend or synthetic. Dog-dirt-5w30 conventional would not cut it.
 
There's no issue with using the specified 5w-20 oil in high speed use as long as the sump is maintained. Consumption in that service is not detrimental to the engine ..nor is it considered abnormal. Letting the sump run too low ..is.
 
The question would be how much oil is the engine using?

I have a 98 4.6L f150 with 80k on the clock, it uses about 1/4 of one quart per 5k miles.

I use 5w20 motorcraft oil, its a great buy.

If you have consumption issues, I would step it up to a HM 5w30 motor oil, but I think you would be wasting your money on synthetic in that motor, its not necessary.
 
Thank you for the kind welcome, Mike.

Just returned from a blood transport. (It is so cold the garage flourescent lights don't fully ignite.)
I wish I had a block heater. But we're all volunteer and I need to save the money on electricity.

I always start out very gently, no lights or siren, and hardly give the engine any gas for the 3 blocks out of our neighborhood to an arterial. (no siren this entire trip!) By the time I get to the blood center, 8 miles, the engine is warm. From there I may go onto I-70.

Thanks for advice about 5W-20 FULL synthetic oil. Must be new Wal-Mart item. I want to use the lower viscosity to increase gas mileage, but was afraid that engine wear at 116K would now warrant 10w30.
Since, Wal-Mart HM FULL synthetic oil is about the same price as Motorcraft BLEND, is FULL better than a BLEND?
Thank you, all.
 
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but was afraid that engine wear at 116K would now warrant 10w30.




Modern engines don't wear out that fast (even Fords
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). Unless you are having consumption issues, there is no need for a heavier oil.

Quote:



Since, Wal-Mart HM FULL synthetic oil is about the same price as Motorcraft BLEND, is FULL better than a BLEND?




Those amount to marketing terms any more, and only relate to the majority base stock viscosity index < > 120. It's the total package and the performance in your engine that matters.
 
Quote:


Thank you for the kind welcome, Mike.

Just returned from a blood transport. (It is so cold the garage flourescent lights don't fully ignite.)
I wish I had a block heater. But we're all volunteer and I need to save the money on electricity.

I always start out very gently, no lights or siren, and hardly give the engine any gas for the 3 blocks out of our neighborhood to an arterial. (no siren this entire trip!) By the time I get to the blood center, 8 miles, the engine is warm. From there I may go onto I-70.

Thanks for advice about 5W-20 FULL synthetic oil. Must be new Wal-Mart item. I want to use the lower viscosity to increase gas mileage, but was afraid that engine wear at 116K would now warrant 10w30.
Since, Wal-Mart HM FULL synthetic oil is about the same price as Motorcraft BLEND, is FULL better than a BLEND?
Thank you, all.




you almost make it sound like the siren causes you to use more oil or makes the oil ware out faster.
 
Quote:



Since, Wal-Mart HM FULL synthetic oil is about the same price as Motorcraft BLEND, is FULL better than a BLEND?




I personally think that MC synthetic blend is better than Walmart SuperTech Full Synthetic.
 
I think I know where you are going.....while a Group IV or V synthetic 10w30 might have the cold flow properties you are looking for - realize that the WM "full synthetic" is well.....a fake synthetic (not a "fake fake"
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) or AKA Group III synthetic and simply does not have the cold flow properties you are looking for.

You say you are all volunteer (I tip my hat). Who actually pays the vehicle maintenance? How many miles per year? (20k?)

I would be tempted to use Amsoil 0W-20 and change it twice a year with an EaO filter.
 
Quote:


...you almost make it sound like the siren causes you to use more oil or makes the oil ware out faster.



The light bar and emergency lights and electronic siren add up to quite a load imposed on the engine.
To avoid disturbing the peace, I sound the siren as little as possible. Due to our good lights, I often can refrain from sounding the siren at all - which I had that night.
To lessen electrical load, on Interstates I have only forward-facing lights operating. This improves gas mileage which I am ruining at higher speeds. Now, if we could only get rid of the wind-catching Streethawk light bar!
 
Quote:


You say you are all volunteer (I tip my hat). Who actually pays the vehicle maintenance? How many miles per year? (20k?)



We pay everything out of our pockets, which is why I am trying to save money. The increased fuel costs of the Expedition are a pain. I do all the maintenence. We have done about 15k/year.
Quote:


I would be tempted to use Amsoil 0W-20 and change it twice a year with an EaO filter.



I am tempted to follow your advice.
But the Wal-Mart high mileage FULL Synthetic oil is much less costly. Also, when I start out, I add very little gas to keep the engine RPMs down until we hopefuly have good oil circulation. Then, I still try to always drive gently and accelerate gently.
 
Thanks for following up.

Sounds like you want, and I will attempt to help you get, the cheapest singular purchase price for your plan. Not the lowest annual cost, not the best long run cost. Pardon me if I get too far off in the weeds.

I realize you used all caps to specify FULL in front of Wal-Mart synthetic. I need to tell you that there is no end to the debate as to the use of the word "synthetic" and Group III oils (which is what Wal Mart syn is - Grp III in a nutshell is hydrotreated petroleum oil ). I don't want to rekindle that debate, and while there is nothing wrong with Wal-Mart synthetic oil, when comparing oils one needs to know the basic properties of those oils to compare for the application.

Also as I wrote, I don't think 10w30 Wal Mart syn has the cold flow properties you want. I think you would be better with a 5W-20 or maybe even a 5w30. Again a group IV or V synthetic would be best (these are both composed of purposely synthesized oil groups, with excellent cold flow properties) - however these oils are pricey.

You know - maybe you should just shop the coupons, web, etc and get the lowest cost 5W-20 or 5w30 and the cheapest filter and change every 4K or so. Then rotate that cost with the other guys. $15-20 or so. (5 times a year, right?)

OR again pool the money, buy a case of Amsoil and two filters and be set up for the year.
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Sounds like you drive about 15,000 highway miles. I'd go with Pablo's advice. But just change the oil and EaO filter once a year. The 0W20 will give you fast cold starts and great gas mileage. I think you would also qualify for a Commercial Account which will give you the lowest possible price. I think this will give you the best performance and lowest cost per mile on your oil and filter changes. Plus less out of service time.
 
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