Worth it to replace the deck on 20 year old HRX217 w/300 hours on unit?

[mitsuman47]

First, arg... sorry for the ugly mobile post

Will a newer, expensive model get you anything that repairing your current one won't? Personally I'm all for fixing a quality piece of equipment, car, ect... I wish that we (collectively) wouldn't have moved away from that mindset.

Likewise. Which is why I came to ask if getting another deck is worth it. Or, if I can get by with just doing repairs.

Good news, though: the JB weld made it through its first hour of mowing. lol

 

[jeepman3071]

It really depends on your own personal preference. Those Nexite decks are known for becoming brittle as they age, so your current deck is on borrowed time even with the repairs.

$400 is a lot for a deck, not to mention the work of switching everything over, but those are good mowers, and you soon won't be able to buy them anymore from Honda, and likely won't find another Nexite deck as parts become harder to find. The only other option I see would be finding a similar used one in better condition, but then used mowers are always an unknown, and a decent one will be more than $400.

I could certainly see worse ways to spend $400 if you don't mind doing the work to swap everything, and the rest of the mower is a known good quantity. The stores around me that still have the Nexite mowers in stock list them for $1000+ if their stock info is even accurate, and the base model Honda mowers are $550, and I don't always trust the websites to reflect actual store stock, they might not even have those mowers anymore. My local Home Depot has like 3 or 4 MTD gas mowers and the rest of the ICE mowers are on "backorder".

 

[Hall]

The stores around me that still have the Nexite mowers in stock list them for $1000+

It's been a number of years ago when I was shopping for my Honda mower and back then, the models with that composite deck were $800+, so $1000+ today doesn't sound out of line.

 

[jeepman3071]

It's been a number of years ago when I was shopping for my Honda mower and back then, the models with that composite deck were $800+, so $1000+ today doesn't sound out of line.

The price doesn't surprise me at all, but my concern would be the availability. My local HD lists them on their website, when I know for a fact they don't have any and if you walk into the store they will order one for you but say it is on backorder with an unknown ETA.

 

[Exhaustgases]

$400. for a mower deck? Its so easy to find free mowers why bother? I think I bought a new mower once in my life can't remember. But since then every mower except for the JD rider, has been a freebe. I got one of them some years ago just taking a walk in the old neighbor hood, just changed the oil and it still runs today, though now the deck does have a hole, its now the weed cutter mower.
You can find cheap craigslist of FB mowers as well, no reason to spend a bunch on a push mower.

 

[The_Eric]

$400. for a mower deck? Its so easy to find free mowers why bother? I think I bought a new mower once in my life can't remember. But since then every mower except for the JD rider, has been a freebe. I got one of them some years ago just taking a walk in the old neighbor hood, just changed the oil and it still runs today, though now the deck does have a hole, its now the weed cutter mower.
You can find cheap craigslist of FB mowers as well, no reason to spend a bunch on a push mower.

Because some people care about what they buy. Some like specific things and desire them enough to spend a premium on them.

There's nothing wrong with buying a premium widget and maintaining it for the entirety of its useful life. There's also nothing wrong with dumpster diving for still usable widgets.. (I do both) and both are preferable to buying and discarding at the first sign of trouble.. Different strokes for different folks.

 

[oil pan 4]

New mowers are junk unless you're going to spend well over $2,000.
Yeah fix your old Honda.

 

[Exhaustgases]

Because some people care about what they buy. Some like specific things and desire them enough to spend a premium on them.

There's nothing wrong with buying a premium widget and maintaining it for the entirety of its useful life. There's also nothing wrong with dumpster diving for still usable widgets.. (I do both) and both are preferable to buying and discarding at the first sign of trouble.. Different strokes for different folks.

And is exactly why every thing now is priced out of this world. Keep paying stupid high prices on the crap and the prices will keep going stratospheric.

 

[mitsuman47]

It really depends on your own personal preference. Those Nexite decks are known for becoming brittle as they age, so your current deck is on borrowed time even with the repairs.

$400 is a lot for a deck, not to mention the work of switching everything over, but those are good mowers, and you soon won't be able to buy them anymore from Honda, and likely won't find another Nexite deck as parts become harder to find. The only other option I see would be finding a similar used one in better condition, but then used mowers are always an unknown, and a decent one will be more than $400.

I could certainly see worse ways to spend $400 if you don't mind doing the work to swap everything, and the rest of the mower is a known good quantity. The stores around me that still have the Nexite mowers in stock list them for $1000+ if their stock info is even accurate, and the base model Honda mowers are $550, and I don't always trust the websites to reflect actual store stock, they might not even have those mowers anymore. My local Home Depot has like 3 or 4 MTD gas mowers and the rest of the ICE mowers are on "backorder".

Thanks for the replies, everyone. I bought the deck this morning. Hopefully, I'll get another 20 years out of the mower.

@jeepman3071 I seem to recall that you work on PE for a living. Are there any "while I'm in there" items I should consider? Oil seals, etc?

I'm planning to replace the belt, and change the fluid in the transmission. Is Honda Hydrostatic fluid the recommended fluid?

Thanks!

 

[350Rocket]

Do these weigh a lot less than comparable machine with a steel deck?
I tried to compare it to my 99 Toro recycler 21 6hp but then realized yours is self propelled and mine is push only. I found this one really heavy compare to my previous 1981 20" mastercraft with a 3hp Briggs. But the deck and wheels are holding up really well after 25 years. The engine smokes and makes a momentary rattle on cold start usually so it might be getting tired but it runs nice and smooth and the smoke helps get rid of mosquitoes before I start mowing. Lol.

 

[jeepman3071]

Thanks for the replies, everyone. I bought the deck this morning. Hopefully, I'll get another 20 years out of the mower.

@jeepman3071 I seem to recall that you work on PE for a living. Are there any "while I'm in there" items I should consider? Oil seals, etc?

I'm planning to replace the belt, and change the fluid in the transmission. Is Honda Hydrostatic fluid the recommended fluid?

Thanks!

I work in IT for a living, but have been running a small engine business on the side for 19 years. As far as "while you are in there" items, the transmission drive belt would probably be the only thing I'd look at replacing if it had never been done, as well as the rear drive wheels if they are worn.

Personally I don't open those Honda mower hydro drive transmissions unless there is already an issue with them.

It shouldn't be too bad of a job, unbolt the blade and the engine and blade clutch should all come out together, and then the transmission and wheels and handle bars will be separate.

 

[mitsuman47]

I work in IT for a living, but have been running a small engine business on the side for 19 years. As far as "while you are in there" items, the transmission drive belt would probably be the only thing I'd look at replacing if it had never been done, as well as the rear drive wheels if they are worn.

Personally I don't open those Honda mower hydro drive transmissions unless there is already an issue with them.

It shouldn't be too bad of a job, unbolt the blade and the engine and blade clutch should all come out together, and then the transmission and wheels and handle bars will be separate.

Thanks for the info. Much appreciated.

I work in Pharmacy IT and break my power equipment as a side hobby.

 

[shortyb]

I'll echo @jeepman3071 about opening up Honda Hydrostats unless there is an issue. I did a fluid change (yes, you should source the Honda fluid) on a high hour machine and never could get it to drive smoothly again. Did the proper fill/bleed/rotate/open actuator arm stuff required twice, and was still balky. Finally found a used, low hour trans and swapped it in. Ran fine then. My current HRX has 100s of hours and never opened the trans. It still drives smooth. I have changed the belt once though.

 

[mitsuman47]

I'll echo @jeepman3071 about opening up Honda Hydrostats unless there is an issue. I did a fluid change (yes, you should source the Honda fluid) on a high hour machine and never could get it to drive smoothly again. Did the proper fill/bleed/rotate/open actuator arm stuff required twice, and was still balky. Finally found a used, low hour trans and swapped it in. Ran fine then. My current HRX has 100s of hours and never opened the trans. It still drives smooth. I have changed the belt once though.

Thanks for the info, guys. I’ll be leaving the trans alone.

 

[mitsuman47]

Look who showed up.

I also have a factory service manual on the way. Couldn’t find torque specs for it, and didn’t want to do anything stupid. lol

 

[Fordiesel69]

I have rebuilt over 10 of these from a small engine business that was closing. I would replace the drive belt, and also the bushings that the transmission axles go thru. They are easy to find with the online diagram. As for the hydro transmission goes, drain all the old fluid out and replace only with "Honda" fluid. No substitutes. Make sure to fill it up where it overflows, then run it with a drill and fill it again so it overflows. Then put the top cover plate back on. The rubber expansion bladder will expand if needed but if underfilled it will make buzzing noise when enguaged. You can only service these on a bench otherwise there is no way to fill them properly.

Also, when you install all the height adjusters and the metal sleeves into the plastic hole, coat them with a non petrolium wool wax or fluid film so they do not rust / swell up. In a non abuse situation, these will rust, swell up, and crack the deck in a way that makes you think it was abused.

While the engine is off, remove the valve cover and slide the cam pin out, and replace the o ring with a brand new one. Slot will face towards front and the valve cover holds it in. Also make sure your valve cover has the little edge inside the keep the cam belt on. If it is the early style, get a replacement valve cover. If this ever starts to leak, the pin will not come out with the enigne installed, and it is not pleasant plucking off the oring when the pin is half in and half out..

I think it was worth the $400 as there is nothing built that feels as comfortable as these to operate.

 

[mitsuman47]

I have rebuilt over 10 of these from a small engine business that was closing. I would replace the drive belt, and also the bushings that the transmission axles go thru. They are easy to find with the online diagram. As for the hydro transmission goes, drain all the old fluid out and replace only with "Honda" fluid. No substitutes. Make sure to fill it up where it overflows, then run it with a drill and fill it again so it overflows. Then put the top cover plate back on. The rubber expansion bladder will expand if needed but if underfilled it will make buzzing noise when enguaged. You can only service these on a bench otherwise there is no way to fill them properly.

Also, when you install all the height adjusters and the metal sleeves into the plastic hole, coat them with a non petrolium wool wax or fluid film so they do not rust / swell up. In a non abuse situation, these will rust, swell up, and crack the deck in a way that makes you think it was abused.

While the engine is off, remove the valve cover and slide the cam pin out, and replace the o ring with a brand new one. Slot will face towards front and the valve cover holds it in. Also make sure your valve cover has the little edge inside the keep the cam belt on. If it is the early style, get a replacement valve cover. If this ever starts to leak, the pin will not come out with the enigne installed, and it is not pleasant plucking off the oring when the pin is half in and half out..

I think it was worth the $400 as there is nothing built that feels as comfortable as these to operate.

Great info. Appreciate you taking the time to answer.

 

[E150GT]

I have rebuilt over 10 of these from a small engine business that was closing. I would replace the drive belt, and also the bushings that the transmission axles go thru. They are easy to find with the online diagram. As for the hydro transmission goes, drain all the old fluid out and replace only with "Honda" fluid. No substitutes. Make sure to fill it up where it overflows, then run it with a drill and fill it again so it overflows. Then put the top cover plate back on. The rubber expansion bladder will expand if needed but if underfilled it will make buzzing noise when enguaged. You can only service these on a bench otherwise there is no way to fill them properly.

Also, when you install all the height adjusters and the metal sleeves into the plastic hole, coat them with a non petrolium wool wax or fluid film so they do not rust / swell up. In a non abuse situation, these will rust, swell up, and crack the deck in a way that makes you think it was abused.

While the engine is off, remove the valve cover and slide the cam pin out, and replace the o ring with a brand new one. Slot will face towards front and the valve cover holds it in. Also make sure your valve cover has the little edge inside the keep the cam belt on. If it is the early style, get a replacement valve cover. If this ever starts to leak, the pin will not come out with the enigne installed, and it is not pleasant plucking off the oring when the pin is half in and half out..

I think it was worth the $400 as there is nothing built that feels as comfortable as these to operate.

This is good info for someone who has a brand new HRX and wants to keep it in perfect shape for the future. got any other tips?

 

[Fordiesel69]

** I forgot one thing of importance! While the engine is off, change the lower crankshaft seal if you have the blade brake, as this is very difficult to do when engine is installed, if no blade brake no need these are easy**.

The GVC engines have a plain upper bearing, and although they can run with a half way down, or even with oil at the add mark, the upper bearing will get severly worn / galled. Always top them off to the full mark so when they are on a hill the upper bearing never goes dry. 25 hrs max even if using high quality synthetic. These have plain aluminum bores and you do not want them to wear out.

The models with the blade brake, have a higher likelyhood to bend a crankshaft if hit. Maybe stock up on one while they are still cheap. The blade brake can be serviced by removing the center bolt. I always recommend cleaning the clutch and checking the bearing each time you have the blade off.

For models that have the hydro transmission, or those with thumb style levers, it is ok to use the hand bail to limit ground speed. If you have a 2 or 3 speed model, DO NOT half bail the handle to limit ground speed. Either on or off. Otherwise you will very quickly wear out the transmission.

These models have very poor recoil springs. I like to shoot a cleaner in the slot, and then blow out with air, then inject a lot of kroil. Do this before winding the spring tighter. A dirty spring will always catch, and keep the rope from rewinding. Adding another wind will often work, but it only gives you a short term fix.

 

[benjy]

mine is at LEAST 30 YO + doing well, BUT being 76 YO i only use it to trim last 2 yrs + love my CC30H cub with reverse mowing!!