wood finishing experts - help needed!

[mikeinaustin]

I purchased a table that is maple with a satin lacquer finish (according to them). Originally it looked like a very flat stained oil finish actually with no shine at all and if you touched it it felt like raw wood.

Because of various reasons i applied some barnishing cream and such to the surface. This removed whatever was on top (satin lacquer???) and left a very shiney super smooth finish. color hasn't changed at all.

The question is, how do i get back to the original very flat finish? What can you put on top of a very shiney surface to make it appear like a dull oil finish?

 

[mikeinaustin]

i know you can't tell much, but here is the original table:

http://www.restorationhardware.com/...ails.jsp?productId=prod2590074&tab=viewLarger

 

[Clyde65]

You want to get that lacquer or clear polyurethane off of there with a varnish stripper. Then put on an oil stain that contains no varnish. That will get you back to the natural look you are looking for.

 

[Amkeer]

You removed the flat sheen that was on the table by buffing it. You really can't reverse that. You can go satin to gloss, but not the reverse. It can be done if you are a pro by scuffing and applying another seal coat. You would then apply another coat of flat lacquer. This is not a beginner thing.

 

[Kestas]

Most of my experience is with polyurethane. I find that even though polyurethane can give a flat (planar) finish once it dries, if you wait a month or so, the finish will dry even further and the natural grain of the wood will come through giving the natural look you're looking for.

 

[mikeinaustin]

so basically i need to completely remove the current satin lacquer finish (which because of me is now a high gloss lacquer finish). Then re-do with a satin lacquer finish. When you say seal coat first, exactly what do you mean by that? can you point me to a product(s) on the web?

Also, if i remove the lacquer, do i have to completely remove the stain that is in the wood as well and get back to pure wood?

 

[Amkeer]

No. You need to sand, seal and recoat. If its satin sheen coat it with a satin sheen. The sealer is used to lock out contaminents and help bond the new finish.

Its best for you to find a cabinet shop that does quality finishes to do the job.

 

[Slick 55]

I listen to a home improvment show by Gary Sullivan on the radio. He swears by a product called Restore-a-finish. He claims it works wonders in situations like yours. It may be worth a look.

 

[Not the Autorx Frank]

Try some fine steel wool and then wipe it down w/ lemon oil.

 

[thooks]

Get some 00,000 and 0000 Steel wool at the hardware store in the pain section. Then go to the floor care section (and/or cleaning section) and get some Johnson's Paste Wax (Or MinWax wax).

Start out with the 00 steel wool and dip it in the wax and begin rubbing the piece. Use as much wax as you want. After about 20-30 minutes, go to the 000 and then 0000.

Wipe it down with paper towels, and just keep using clean paper towels and keep wiping and buffing until it is dry and feels clean.

Should not need any sanding or re-coating to get where you want.

 

[Not the Autorx Frank]

Good call on the wax, Tung oil might have the same effect too.

 

[mechtech]

ditto Amkeer

 

[Amkeer]

All you are doing with the steel wool is introducing straight line scratches to give the look of a satin sheen. The poster implied he would like to get the peice back to its satin sheen that was originally on the peice. The only way to do this is sand and recoat. Ask me how I know this stuff.

Also you can not put tung oil on a lacquered peice of furniture.

If you add wax to the surface and the peice needs to be properly finished you will contaminate the surface.

Its best just to leave it alone if you are not going to let a pro fix it.