Wondering if I created a problem or if it’s just circumstantial?

Well my BlueDriver came and I must say it was the easiest thing to hook up to the LeSabre. Here are some screenshots of the reports he gave and it looks like it so it’s showing a misfire on cylinder two. Sometimes the check engine light stays solid but I took it for a short neighbourhood drive today and it started flashing again and I still have a subtle but consistent hesitation when I first hit the Excelerator and then the engine appears to drive normally. Here are some screenshots of the OBD scan findings. The original owner replaced the coils on the car sometime ago but I have no idea what the quality or brand wise. If I end up replacing a coil, should I replace all three or just the one for cylinder two? Also, I priced the ignition coils for this car on Amazon and I can get either a Delphi brand or an AC Delco professional/gold brand. The AC Delco is actually more expensive but it looks like the Delphi is still US made. Or does any of my hair splitting make a difference really?
Move the coils and see if the misfire moves. If it does, then you know you have one bad coil to replace. If the misfire doesn't move, pull the spark plug after the engine has cooled back down overnight.

Wondering if there are coils made for this engine anywhere in North America?
Most likely not.
 
Buy one of those Thexton branded adjustable spark testers and set it to a 50kv gap, put number 2 wire on it, clip the other end on ground and start it. Should jump the gap. But before you do that, pull the wire off the plug and cool and inspect for rust/corrosion. Also inspect the wire for damage.
 
With the only code being P0302, the first thing I would do is unscrew spark plug #2 and have a look. Maybe it is just fouled out. Put back a new plug or switch it with one of the other ones.

This is a "waste fire" system with each coil firing two cylinders. (Both plugs spark each time the coil is triggered, but only one at a time does anything because there is no fuel in the other cylinder, its spark is wasted.) A totally bad coil wouldn't fire either one. In the kind of unlikely case that only one output of the coil were bad, you could switch the two wires on the coil for plug number 2 and see if the problem moves.

The plugs or wires are more likely ignition problems than the coils. That is if it is an ignition problem at all.
 
With the only code being P0302, the first thing I would do is unscrew spark plug #2 and have a look. Maybe it is just fouled out. Put back a new plug or switch it with one of the other ones.

This is a "waste fire" system with each coil firing two cylinders. (Both plugs spark each time the coil is triggered, but only one at a time does anything because there is no fuel in the other cylinder, its spark is wasted.) A totally bad coil wouldn't fire either one. In the kind of unlikely case that only one output of the coil were bad, you could switch the two wires on the coil for plug number 2 and see if the problem moves.

The plugs or wires are more likely ignition problems than the coils. That is if it is an ignition problem at all.
Interestingly, I've had several coils (Ford, GM) lose spark on only one output... Weird.
 
LowMilesLesabre, just as an FYI, Standard Motor Products has a large factory in Poland where they manufacture their Blue Streak and BWD Select ignition coils. It would not surprise me if they also manufactured ignition coils for other brands as well.
 
I would not buy critical parts off Amazon - too much of a counterfeit part risk. Just go to rockauto.com and buy the coil. Try the SMP blue streak coils - a value and they are of very good quality. I've used them and the one on my personal car is 3yrs old and still good.
 
LowMilesLesabre, just as an FYI, Standard Motor Products has a large factory in Poland where they manufacture their Blue Streak and BWD Select ignition coils. It would not surprise me if they also manufactured ignition coils for other brands as well.
I will add that the BlueStreak line of parts is a very high quality line - I recommend them.
 
With few exceptions most OBD codes are simply emissions / sensor related.
Sure would be nice if it actually monitored the engine for actual problems and not just EPA matters.

First step, hook up a scanner, read the code, write it down, then clear the code...
And see if it comes back, if it doesn't you're good, if it does you now have a confirmed code.
 
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