WIX Filter Discrepancy

[Roadrunner777]

Short Version:
My vehicle uses WIX 51515. The WIX website page for the 51515 says there is a 2 quart version, #51773. So, I have used the longer 51773 for my last couple of oil changes, the last one being last week.

Since then, I have been doing oil filter research for a Ford Explorer forum and discovered a potential problem. The spec on the regular-sized 51515 is 99% at 20 microns. The spec on the longer 51773 is 99% at 40 microns. I checked other manufacturers cross-references and this is the way it is for every brand I checked.

So, the first goal of this post was to let folks know that a longer version filter may not be the same media spec, you should verify before you buy.

Longer version with question:
My Specs -
1994 Ford Explorer 4x4
190,000 miles
Engine is smooth, good oil pressure warm or cold, burns about a quart every 8,000 miles.
I'm a conservative driver, mostly short trips and stop/go.
I am in Northern Minnesota, so I see extreme cold during the winter. I often start the engine when it is -30 degrees or worse. Always starts the first key, oil pressure builds up like it was summer.
I do yearly oil changes, works out to about 8,000 miles (I don't go out of town much). I use Mobil 1 EP 5W-30.

I need to decide what to do about the WIX oil filter. I really care for this vehicle and it KILLS me that I have been using a 40 micron filter when the spec was 20.

Here are my options. Please give me your thoughts.

1. Leave the 40 micron filter in, it doesn't make a difference.

2. Swap in a Baldwin B2. It's a great filter I can get for about $10. It's not a spec extended protection filter, but I'm not exactly shooting for 15,000 miles, just 8,000.

3. Swap in a leading EP filter, such as the Mobile M1-301. $13.

4. Swap in a WIX 51515. Again, not an extended protection filter per se, but maybe good enough for 8,000 miles. $7.

5. Your idea? I'd like to keep it under $15.

I'm not talking about Amsoil because... well, it's $18, which I can live with, but no local dealers and I need to do this really soon... snow is in the forecast and I don't have a garage. I can get the Baldwin, Donaldson, Motorcraft, Purolator or K&N Gold off the shelf here in town. I can't get a Fleetguard, an extended Bosch, or Mann in time.

Thank you in advance for your thoughts.

~Phil

 

[AuthorEditor]

I would run the current filter on there for your normal OCI, then I would switch at the change to a P1 or maybe a Fram Xtended Guard. The Xtended Guard is a great 10,000 mile filter available at WM for less than $9.

 

[bullwinkle]

For an 8K OCI on a clean engine, Motorcraft or P1 would be just fine. If you want to push it to 10K or more, then spend the $ on M1, Ultra, Bosch D+, or Amsoil.

 

[KCJeep]

The Motorcraft FL-1A is hard to beat and really can't be touched at the $4 mark. For upscale the Fram Ultra is still less than some of those you mentioned and is one heck of a filter, rated for 15k no less.

 

[Roadrunner777]

The folks on the Ford Explorer forum really like the Motorcraft filter, actually, not surprisingly, they like ALL things Motorcraft. At $4, it's almost too cheap to believe, but I will get over that.

I'm still very interested in filter options. I would also like to explore 2 points:

1. What the heck is going on with the 20/40 micron thing. They don't seem to be compatible. I'm just wondering what damage I did running the wrong filter.

2. Opinions on whether I change it now or on my next OCI.

Thanks for everything so far!

 

[dnewton3]

A few things to note:

Wix has been known to have typo errors in some of their listings. Before you panic, ask them if the "40"um rating is correct. (Note: they don't always have the most informed response staff; I've been very disappointed by them before in that regard. I've asked detailed questions and got nothing but canned marketing hype back at me. But it's worth asking.)

The 51515 is an excellent filter, and using it for annual OCIs at 8k miles is an easy no-brainer. You don't "need" anything more than that most likely. Any decent filter (Wix, M/C, etc) will work just fine. (You likely don't need syn either, but I digress ... )

The only way to know for sure if you've had any real damage (which I doubt) is to get both PC and UOA analysis. Let me save you the grief; don't worry about it. Your engine will not degrade or melt down that quickly. Just go back to the "normal" filter and be done with it. If you are close to your OCI, then just do it all at once. If not, then change the filter now.

A fine lesson to be learned here. There are a LOT of people who like to "upsize" their filter. One must review all the specs before venturing off the reservation; caveot emptor!

 

[ZeeOSix]

Originally Posted By: Roadrunner777

1. What the heck is going on with the 20/40 micron thing. They don't seem to be compatible. I'm just wondering what damage I did running the wrong filter.


Purolator does the same thing with the 14610 filter (and 3 other small sized filters), which are rated at 99.9% @ 40 microns vs. 99.9 % @ 20 microns like the rest of their spin-ons. Nobody here on BITOG really knows the reason why those 4 Purolator filters are rated a the larger 40 micron size.

Doubt that running a filter rated at 99% @ 40 microns is going to do any more damage then running a filter that is less efficient at a smaller micron rating. Case in point ... particles less than 15 microns do a lot of wear damage too.

 

[Roadrunner777]

I guess I am not looking at a typo. If I cross reference to another maker, say, Donaldson, I get the same specs.

The engine damage question, yes, I really can answer that myself. I have great oil pressure, engine temps, and no indications at all that this engine is 18 years old. She purrs.

I think, when I started reading this forum, I got a little compulsive. Coil or leaf spring. valve at the top or bottom. Synthetic or celluloid. I think I got a little bit wound up in it all.

Along that line, I confess that I am leaning hard towards the Baldwin. I used to visit industrial factories and construction sites, and the common denominator was that signature Baldwin Filter logo on red. Other than the fact it is $10, is there a reason not to use it?

I'm liking synthetic oil for my extreme cold winters, and the extended OCI.

Thanks again for the thoughts, please continue!

 

[bullwinkle]

Baldwin makes a decent filter-but for $10 the Fram Ultra would be hard to beat-and you could buy THREE Purolator Classics from Wal-Mart for that.

 

[Roadrunner777]

Can a purolator classic handle a 8,000 mile OCI?

The observant will see that I am not responding to Fram recommendations. I don't mean to open a debate, but Fram filters are not on the table.

 

[Garak]

I'd suggest there's nothing wrong with the Fram synthetic filter, but I understand your point. In any case, I've come across similar figures that you did when comparing an upsize to the 51515. I don't know whether it's a typo or the truth, and I really wouldn't worry much about it.

Personally, I prefer to used the specified filter when reasonably possible. I doubt you'd have problems with an 8,000 mile OCI using a 51515 or an FL1A. If I recall correctly, tig1 does 10,000 mile OCIs without resorting to buying anything too high end in the filter department.

 

[ZeeOSix]

Originally Posted By: Roadrunner777
Can a purolator classic handle a 8,000 mile OCI?

The observant will see that I am not responding to Fram recommendations. I don't mean to open a debate, but Fram filters are not on the table.


A Classic might take a 8,000 mile OCI. As with any oil filter, it depends on the condition of the engine and the driving schedule of the vehicle. When in doubt, use an advertised high mileage/high OCI filter.

I'd personally use the FRAM Ultra (XG series) ... it's actually a very good constructed and performing filter.

So why wouldn't you use the Ultra ... price?

 

[cp3]

Baldwin is a solid filter. For extreme cold, they do have a nitrile ADBV, I'm no longer convinced this is an issue. I feel it would be more of a problem with extended OCIs. I used them on a couple cars last winter and di not notice any extra noise that I would attribute to a leaky valve.

 

[Roadrunner777]

My application has the filter hanging straight down, so if I understand this stuff, the ADBV really doesn't come into play.

Frams... frankly, in my research I was going to get to them, but I got side-tracked with the 20/40 micron issue. I'll look into it.

Well, I want to thank everyone for their comments. It looks like we have nice weather next week, if so, I'll be swapping in the Motorcraft filter. If not, oh well. A lot of engines run a 40 micron filter, so I am not so concerned. Probably be better off spending time tuning up the snow blower. Mobil 1 0w-20, no filter.

Thanks again,
~Phil