Wix 57356 with issues cut open

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AZjeff

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Back story: 12/14 bought an 02 Xterra 3.3L with 126K that had a small RMS leak. Immediately changed oil to Maxlife 5W-30, a Wix 57356, and added 1/2 bottle of ATP AT-205 that everyone raves about. Reason for 1/2 bottle is this engine has a 3.5 qt. sump. At 3K I changed oil with ML 5W-30 again and added the other 1/2 bottle of AT-205 but I left the Wix on for another 3K. Around 2K into this OCI I started noticing some start-up clatter. It wasn't much so I left the filter on and went to 3100 (the clatter got a little louder) and filled with Pennzoil HM 5W-30 and a NAPA Gold 7356 that looks identical to the Wix. Cold start clatter gone. I mentioned this a while ago and someone wondered if the ADB valve went bad. I've never cut a filter before and was really curious so figuring what the heck I drained all the oil out and ground through the crimp with a flap disc and it popped right apart. Here are the photos and the interesting thing is the black rubber seal that's inside the one part is all swelled and deformed. I don't know how this all works but it was definitely off center, did this allow drain-back? First time using the AT-205 and first time with a 2X FCI. Some oil still shows up on the crossmember but doesn't drip now. My first cut/post, did I miss anything? Thoughts?

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One filter, one OCI! The Napa Gold 7356 is identical to the Wix 57356.

Have you always used Wix? Have the non-Wix filters (if any) given you problems?
 
The piece with the black rubber seal is the bypass valve that sits in the base end along with the silicone ADBV. I've seen this look before on the black rubber seal in the bypass valve on a few WIX filters. It was probably working fine, but looks bad. Wondering if it swelled up for some reason - fuel dilution in the oil maybe?
 
s_b, I've used NAPA Gold forever and was pretty sure the Wix was equivalent.

06, the AT-205 is a seal sweller that was to treat the leaking rear main seal. Maybe swelled this rubber seal too much?

I've been comfortable with 5K OCI/FCIs for a long time so 6K on an oil filter didn't seem too much. The 3.5 quart sump has me a little off, it's 60% of a 5 quart sump so if the oil pump has the same flow rate the smaller volume circulates 1.67x more through the filter and through the motor and 3000 miles is the equivalent of 5000 with 5 quarts. This may have been like a 10K FCI? No more. Plan is to run this fill for 3K with no additives then decide if I want to give Liqui Moly Motor Oil Saver a try if the drip comes back.

If the funky looking black seal wasn't the cause then why the start-up clatter?
 
Just trying to understand what caused the clatter. The Xterra runs perfectly and I soft pedal it. The amount of solids in the can (see pic) was surprising but I've never cut a filter so maybe it's normal. PO ran synthetic.
 
Originally Posted By: slacktide_bitog
One filter, one OCI! The Napa Gold 7356 is identical to the Wix 57356.

Have you always used Wix? Have the non-Wix filters (if any) given you problems?


I can't state it enough, "One Filter, One OCI!"
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Originally Posted By: AZjeff
I get it and won't 2x OCIs again but what about 5K OCIs vs 10K OCIs? Wouldn't the fresh oil for the 2nd 5K be easier on the filter if the 5K guy was doing 2x on the filter?


I cant see the difference between a 10k run of oil vs. (2) 5k runs of oil all done on the same filter.
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OP has xterra 3.3L V6 with a small filter and 3.5qt sump. For comparison, my 2.4L takes 5 quarts.
I would NOT skip filter changes or extend OCI's with an xterra 3.3!

Other applications with 5k, 7.5k, 10k... intervals have less stress on the oil if oil capacity is greater.

I'd blame the ATP for mistreating the filter's seal.

Too much crud in filter to assume the previous owner took care of it.
 
Not much of a believer in oil additives.

Back in the old west, snake oil salesmen would put anything in a bottle and sell it for a wide array of ailments.

I believe oil additives are today's patent medicine.

If the bypass valve is stuck closed and the engine is starved for oil, you are going to hear some rattling, clatter, and engine damage going on.

The bypass usually opens at start up and sometimes when you accelerate quickly.

Looks like yours was swollen and glued closed by the oil additive you used.
 
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