Winter storage - fog cylinders?

Status
Not open for further replies.
Joined
Oct 16, 2010
Messages
2,478
Location
.
I have stored an MX-5 over the winter for a number of years. Every year I've fogged the cylinders as the last part of the storage prep process. Stored for about 6 months in an unheated garage in a cold climate.

It's an in-line 4 so not a huge effort, but wonder what others do. Anyone here do the same? Anyone think it's important?
 
For 6 months its probably not an absolute necessity but it doesn't do any harm that's for sure. Keep doing it if you have had no issues.
 
Cylinders are iron.

Fogging oil comes in an aerosol can with a long spray tube. Method is to let everything cool fully, remove spark plugs, insert tube into combustion chamber and spray for 3 seconds, reinstall plugs. Leave it alone ‘til spring.

Hydrolocking isn't a concern as the amount of liquid introduced is minimal.

And of course this comes after an oil change, bumping up tire pressure, rodent control, battery removal, etc.
 
Originally Posted by Danh
Cylinders are iron.

Fogging oil comes in an aerosol can with a long spray tube. Method is to let everything cool fully, remove spark plugs, insert tube into combustion chamber and spray for 3 seconds, reinstall plugs. Leave it alone ‘til spring.

Hydrolocking isn't a concern as the amount of liquid introduced is minimal.

And of course this comes after an oil change, bumping up tire pressure, rodent control, battery removal, etc.


That is not fogging an engine. What you are doing is just adding oil to the cylinders, which can be done with any engine oil. Fogging actually fogs by spraying it into carbs or other means with the engine running which burns the oil/fluid to a degree and spreads it throughout an entire engine.

I fog my snowmobiles every year by starting them, running them, then spray the fog fluid into the carbs (3 for both sleds) until the sled stalls. That is fogging them and you will see smoke/fog exit the exhaust before they stall.

I am sure there are youtube/Google vids showing how to do it properly.

Around the 2 minute mark.
 
Last edited:
Originally Posted by irv
Danh said:
Cylinders are iron.

Fogging oil comes in an aerosol can with a long spray tube. Method is to let everything cool fully, remove spark plugs, insert tube into combustion chamber and spray for 3 seconds, reinstall plugs. Leave it alone ‘til spring.

Hydrolocking isn't a concern as the amount of liquid introduced is minimal.

And of course this comes after an oil change, bumping up tire pressure, rodent control, battery removal, etc.
My dad used to do that on the lawnmower back when he cared like 15 years ago. Back before carb problems were even a thing.
 
Speaking from a boat owner perspective, the best way, especially in high humidity areas like the Chesapeake Bay- spray it down the carb or throttle body until the engine stalls, which might take 2 cans of fogging oil sprayed simultaneously on a big engine like a 454 or 502. If you cannot stall it, then have somebody shut the engine off while spraying. Once it cools a bit then remove the plugs and spray some in each cylinder, then bump the engine about 2-3 revs. On boats with really cramped engine bays it can be very difficult to access some spark plugs, especially mid-size boats with twins. But it should be fairly easy on a car.
 
Originally Posted by irv
Originally Posted by Danh
Cylinders are iron.

Fogging oil comes in an aerosol can with a long spray tube. Method is to let everything cool fully, remove spark plugs, insert tube into combustion chamber and spray for 3 seconds, reinstall plugs. Leave it alone ‘til spring.

Hydrolocking isn't a concern as the amount of liquid introduced is minimal.

And of course this comes after an oil change, bumping up tire pressure, rodent control, battery removal, etc.


That is not fogging an engine. What you are doing is just adding oil to the cylinders, which can be done with any engine oil. Fogging actually fogs by spraying it into carbs or other means with the engine running which burns the oil/fluid to a degree and spreads it throughout an entire engine.

I fog my snowmobiles every year by starting them, running them, then spray the fog fluid into the carbs (3 for both sleds) until the sled stalls. That is fogging them and you will see smoke/fog exit the exhaust before they stall.

I am sure there are youtube/Google vids showing how to do it properly.

Around the 2 minute mark.

Originally Posted by irv
Originally Posted by Danh
Cylinders are iron.

Fogging oil comes in an aerosol can with a long spray tube. Method is to let everything cool fully, remove spark plugs, insert tube into combustion chamber and spray for 3 seconds, reinstall plugs. Leave it alone ‘til spring.

Hydrolocking isn't a concern as the amount of liquid introduced is minimal.

And of course this comes after an oil change, bumping up tire pressure, rodent control, battery removal, etc.


That is not fogging an engine. What you are doing is just adding oil to the cylinders, which can be done with any engine oil. Fogging actually fogs by spraying it into carbs or other means with the engine running which burns the oil/fluid to a degree and spreads it throughout an entire engine.

I fog my snowmobiles every year by starting them, running them, then spray the fog fluid into the carbs (3 for both sleds) until the sled stalls. That is fogging them and you will see smoke/fog exit the exhaust before they stall.

I am sure there are youtube/Google vids showing how to do it properly.

Around the 2 minute mark.


Heck, I just follow the instructions on the can. Anyway, what's on the video ain't gonna happen. Speaking of which, how is it OK to run a boat engine without coolant?
 
Quote- "Heck, I just follow the instructions on the can. Anyway, what's on the video ain't gonna happen. Speaking of which, how is it OK to run a boat engine without coolant?".
I did not watch the video, but looking at the pic shows a garden hose supplying water via muffs. But you have a good point- if its out of the water, it must have a water supply.
 
I don't bother anymore. Never had an issue. If you were storing it for years then sure but 6 months is no big deal. I change the oil before it sits though. My Mustang and boat sit all winter outside.
 
Fogging oil comes in an aerosol can with a long spray tube. Method is to let everything cool fully, remove spark plugs, insert tube into combustion chamber and spray for 3 seconds, reinstall plugs. Leave it alone ‘til spring.

Hydrolocking isn't a concern as the amount of liquid introduced is minimal.

And of course this comes after an oil change, bumping up tire pressure, rodent control, battery removal, etc. [/quote]

That is not fogging an engine. What you are doing is just adding oil to the cylinders, which can be done with any engine oil. Fogging actually fogs by spraying it into carbs or other means with the engine running which burns the oil/fluid to a degree and spreads it throughout an entire engine.

I fog my snowmobiles every year by starting them, running them, then spray the fog fluid into the carbs (3 for both sleds) until the sled stalls. That is fogging them and you will see smoke/fog exit the exhaust before they stall.

I am sure there are youtube/Google vids showing how to do it properly.

Around the 2 minute mark.
[/quote]

Heck, I just follow the instructions on the can. Anyway, what's on the video ain't gonna happen. Speaking of which, how is it OK to run a boat engine without coolant?
[/quote]

Then you are not reading it right. You are doing something which is better than nothing but what's the point of buying fogging spray if you aren't going to use it like it's designed?

Can you not see the stream/p*sser in the pic alone coming out the back of the engine?
21.gif
Watch the vid then.
 
When I had jetskis I never bothered taking the plugs out, just ran it about 2500 RPM and went nuts with the fogging spray until the motor stalled, then I put it up for the winter.
 
Originally Posted by irv
Then you are not reading it right. You are doing something which is better than nothing but what's the point of buying fogging spray if you aren't going to use it like it's designed?

Can you not see the stream/p*sser in the pic alone coming out the back of the engine?
21.gif
Watch the vid then.

I don't know what you're talking about, but every major fogging oil spray literally tells you to remove the spark plugs and spray down cylinder with the extension. He/she is not doing anything wrong and is using like it's designed even if a step is being omitted, there's certainly nothing strange about spraying it down the cylinder.

Originally Posted by irv
That is not fogging an engine. What you are doing is just adding oil to the cylinders, which can be done with any engine oil. Fogging actually fogs by spraying it into carbs or other means with the engine running which burns the oil/fluid to a degree and spreads it throughout an entire engine.

What you're saying is misleading. It makes it sound like the goal of spraying it through the intake is to burn it, it's not. The goal of fogging is to preserve the intake system and the cylinders (and more components if used in a two-stroke system). You stop when it starts smoking because that lets you know that it has reached the end of the intake system (the combustion chamber), not because the burning aids in the fogging process in any way. Once you see smoke the intake might have protection but the cylinders have no additional protection because anything that went in was burned. That's why the manufacturers tell you the second step is to pull the plugs, then spray down the cylinders. This way both the intake and the cylinders are protected.

It is just adding oil to the cylinders, that's one of the steps but you're dismissing the ease of application for reasons I'm not certain of. You're not seriously arguing that pouring oil into a cylinder like you were doing a wet compression test, is the same as spraying aerosolized fogging oil into a cylinder with an extension, are you?
 
Originally Posted by NoNameJoe
Originally Posted by irv
Then you are not reading it right. You are doing something which is better than nothing but what's the point of buying fogging spray if you aren't going to use it like it's designed?

Can you not see the stream/p*sser in the pic alone coming out the back of the engine?
21.gif
Watch the vid then.

I don't know what you're talking about, but every major fogging oil spray literally tells you to remove the spark plugs and spray down cylinder with the extension. He/she is not doing anything wrong and is using like it's designed even if a step is being omitted, there's certainly nothing strange about spraying it down the cylinder.

Originally Posted by irv
That is not fogging an engine. What you are doing is just adding oil to the cylinders, which can be done with any engine oil. Fogging actually fogs by spraying it into carbs or other means with the engine running which burns the oil/fluid to a degree and spreads it throughout an entire engine.

What you're saying is misleading. It makes it sound like the goal of spraying it through the intake is to burn it, it's not. The goal of fogging is to preserve the intake system and the cylinders (and more components if used in a two-stroke system). You stop when it starts smoking because that lets you know that it has reached the end of the intake system (the combustion chamber), not because the burning aids in the fogging process in any way. Once you see smoke the intake might have protection but the cylinders have no additional protection because anything that went in was burned. That's why the manufacturers tell you the second step is to pull the plugs, then spray down the cylinders. This way both the intake and the cylinders are protected.

It is just adding oil to the cylinders, that's one of the steps but you're dismissing the ease of application for reasons I'm not certain of. You're not seriously arguing that pouring oil into a cylinder like you were doing a wet compression test, is the same as spraying aerosolized fogging oil into a cylinder with an extension, are you?


In post 4, Max was wondering/inquiring how fogging an engine is done. In post 5 Danh explains what he thinks is the method according to what it allegedly says on his can. (I'd like to see that can)
The way Danh explains it is incorrect. There is a lot more too it, like you can see in the vid, than simply pumping a couple squirts into each cylinder. That is the very last step after you have completely fogged the engine causing it to stall, it is not the entire process.

Danh's post is full of errors, which I am surprised you did not pick up on? He mentions the engine should be cold, he mentions nothing of rotating the engine a few times after some is sprayed into the cylinders, etc, etc.
If Danh truly believes, by spraying a couple squirts into each cylinder is how you fog an engine, then he is a 100% wrong. Nothing is "fogging" at all by doing that way, nothing is coating the internal parts as there is absolutely no "fogging" going on anywhere.
coffee2.gif
 
Last edited:
Originally Posted by irv
Originally Posted by NoNameJoe
Originally Posted by irv
Then you are not reading it right. You are doing something which is better than nothing but what's the point of buying fogging spray if you aren't going to use it like it's designed?

Can you not see the stream/p*sser in the pic alone coming out the back of the engine?
21.gif
Watch the vid then.

I don't know what you're talking about, but every major fogging oil spray literally tells you to remove the spark plugs and spray down cylinder with the extension. He/she is not doing anything wrong and is using like it's designed even if a step is being omitted, there's certainly nothing strange about spraying it down the cylinder.

Originally Posted by irv
That is not fogging an engine. What you are doing is just adding oil to the cylinders, which can be done with any engine oil. Fogging actually fogs by spraying it into carbs or other means with the engine running which burns the oil/fluid to a degree and spreads it throughout an entire engine.

What you're saying is misleading. It makes it sound like the goal of spraying it through the intake is to burn it, it's not. The goal of fogging is to preserve the intake system and the cylinders (and more components if used in a two-stroke system). You stop when it starts smoking because that lets you know that it has reached the end of the intake system (the combustion chamber), not because the burning aids in the fogging process in any way. Once you see smoke the intake might have protection but the cylinders have no additional protection because anything that went in was burned. That's why the manufacturers tell you the second step is to pull the plugs, then spray down the cylinders. This way both the intake and the cylinders are protected.

It is just adding oil to the cylinders, that's one of the steps but you're dismissing the ease of application for reasons I'm not certain of. You're not seriously arguing that pouring oil into a cylinder like you were doing a wet compression test, is the same as spraying aerosolized fogging oil into a cylinder with an extension, are you?


In post 4, Max was wondering/inquiring how fogging an engine is done. In post 5 Danh explains what he thinks is the method according to what it allegedly says on his can. (I'd like to see that can)
The way Danh explains it is incorrect. There is a lot more too it, like you can see in the vid, than simply pumping a couple squirts into each cylinder. That is the very last step after you have completely fogged the engine causing it to stall, it is not the entire process.

Danh's post is full of errors, which I am surprised you did not pick up on? He mentions the engine should be cold, he mentions nothing of rotating the engine a few times after some is sprayed into the cylinders, etc, etc.
If Danh truly believes, by spraying a couple squirts into each cylinder is how you fog an engine, then he is a 100% wrong. Nothing is "fogging" at all by doing that way, nothing is coating the internal parts as there is absolutely no "fogging" going on anywhere.
coffee2.gif




Well, gosh. I'll plead to perhaps using the verb "fogging" incorrectly. And I'll also copy to not rotating the engine afterwards because space limitations make it darn difficult to do by hand and, even with th accelerator floored I'm reluctant to use the starter for fear of getting fuel into the combustion chamber.

Keep in mind I'm not trying to clean the engine, valves, intake manifold, combustion chamber, etc. I'm just trying to do a simple task in the interest of perhaps preventing corrosion. And this is typically an additional or alternative method according to the makers of of these (non-fogging) sprays.

So, rephrasing my question, is the not-fogging process I've used for a bunch of years of any value? Does anyone else do the same?

Gotta love this place...
 
Last edited:
Quote
"Well, gosh. I'll plead to perhaps using the verb "fogging" incorrectly. And I'll also copy to not rotating the engine afterwards because space limitations make it darn difficult to do by hand and, even with th accelerator floored I'm reluctant to use the starter for fear of getting fuel into the combustion chamber.

Keep in mind I'm not trying to clean the engine, valves, intake manifold, combustion chamber, etc. I'm just trying to do a simple task in the interest of perhaps preventing corrosion. And this is typically an additional or alternative method according to the makers of of these (non-fogging) sprays.

So, rephrasing my question, is the not-fogging process I've used for a bunch of years of any value? Does anyone else do the same?

Gotta love this place..."


Well, would have you preferred that I agreed with your post and gave out false info to Max and others, who don't know, that your way was the proper way to fog an engine rather than tell them the correct way?

What you are doing is OK, it is definitely better than not doing nothing, but in reality, it isn't doing much, especially if you are going to store your vehicle long term.

Basically, by just spraying the fog into the cylinders, you are not dispersing it much but it will protect those areas where the oil/spray sits/gets too around the rings which will help those from rusting to the cylinder walls.

I don't know your vehicle but if it is possible to do, then I'd add some to the cylinders like you are doing then start the vehicle momentarily then repeat until you see fog coming out your exhaust. Once you see enough fog, then shut your engine off and spray in the plug holes again and call it a season.
That is likely a lot of work but at least then you will know your internals will have some fog/coat of oil on them.
 
Last edited:
Status
Not open for further replies.
Back
Top