Why would a freezer evaporator ice over?

OP, I had the same problem with the 15 yr old Whirlpool already in the condo when we moved in. After I opened up the inside back panels, I found the small fan that blew the inside air over the coils was not turning. Turns out it was just stuck from lack of use. A quick turn of my wrist on the blades freed it up.

After 5 years, same thing happened. This time, the failed part was the defrost timer. I knew it was that because I no longer heard the ticking sounds it used to make when defrost was ongoing. Couldn't find a replacement online nor from a few ref and acon parts suppliers, so I called the local Whirlpool tech repair office and they had the part. Tech came over after 2 days and replaced the timer. Seemed good, the ticking sound was back, but after 2 days still no joy. I opened up the old timer and the new timer, and found they did not have the same wiring pattern inside to the external pin system. Switched the new timer wires around to match the old part's, and now it works.

A week later, I noticed the compressor was not turning off. Looked under into the condenser coils and found them caked in hair, fluff and dirt. Access was not easy, but eventually I got 'em clean enough and the ref back to normal.

Two years ago, the replacement timer failed. It was a mechanical unit with a small motor inside, and I noticed I could start the defrost cycle with a Philips screwdriver into an access hole and rotating the timer wheel inside till I hear a click. It's only a 5-second chore, and now turn the timer geared wheel every 3 days to keep the evap coils frost free.
 
Samsung refrigerators were known to do this while having no issues with refrigerant levels. Had to do with fans and lack of insulation around certain piping.
 
Long story short: Frigidaire side-by side fridge started getting warm but the freezer was cold. I changed the defrost thermostat, and that helped a little, but the damper is also bad. There was ice below the evaporator, but not on the coils. Freezing up must have broken the damper.

Long story: I just moved to a house with a 2017 Frigidaire side-by-side. The freezer seemed really cold--like cold enough to solidify gel icepacks that have always stayed squishy before. Then the fridge got up into the low 50s after about 2 weeks.

A parts website said it was likely the defrost thermostat, so I got one locally and tore into it. That was $14 vs about $200 for the next possibility. I had a block of ice below the evaporator, but not on the evaporator itself. I replaced the t-stat, melted out the ice, and Macgyvered a piece of wire to keep the drain hole from freezing shut--A piece of stripped house wiring or about 10-ga auto wiring wrapped around the defrost element with the straight end extending into the drain hole. I learned that trick after defrosting an old Whirlpool top-freezer twice in a week because the fridge was filling with water. I also checked the coils underneath--they were the cleanest I have ever seen on a used refrigerator.

That didn't fix it, although the fridge temp went down into the low 40s. The freezer was -30 according to the outside unit of my wireless thermometer, but -30 is likely the minimum it can read.

I figured it was time to call in a professional instead of throwing more parts at it. He took off the damper and cleared a little ice out of it. That restored airflow, which wasn't happening before. The fridge temp went down into the 30s but then up again by the end of the day, and the airflow went back to almost nothing. A small ice drip started forming at the bottom of the fridge damper. I could also hear a periodic tapping in the top if the fridge. The repairman came back and diagnosed it as a bad damper motor, probably broken by being frozen up. He propped the door open a bit, and the fridge stayed reasonably cold and the freezer is warmer. He comes back to install a damper next week.
 
OP, I had the same problem with the 15 yr old Whirlpool already in the condo when we moved in. After I opened up the inside back panels, I found the small fan that blew the inside air over the coils was not turning. Turns out it was just stuck from lack of use. A quick turn of my wrist on the blades freed it up.

After 5 years, same thing happened. This time, the failed part was the defrost timer. I knew it was that because I no longer heard the ticking sounds it used to make when defrost was ongoing. Couldn't find a replacement online nor from a few ref and acon parts suppliers, so I called the local Whirlpool tech repair office and they had the part. Tech came over after 2 days and replaced the timer. Seemed good, the ticking sound was back, but after 2 days still no joy. I opened up the old timer and the new timer, and found they did not have the same wiring pattern inside to the external pin system. Switched the new timer wires around to match the old part's, and now it works.

A week later, I noticed the compressor was not turning off. Looked under into the condenser coils and found them caked in hair, fluff and dirt. Access was not easy, but eventually I got 'em clean enough and the ref back to normal.

Two years ago, the replacement timer failed. It was a mechanical unit with a small motor inside, and I noticed I could start the defrost cycle with a Philips screwdriver into an access hole and rotating the timer wheel inside till I hear a click. It's only a 5-second chore, and now turn the timer geared wheel every 3 days to keep the evap coils frost free.
Wow, you have saved that fridge from the brink multiple times and are now operating it manually, nice!
 
This, or a freezer that is too full, not good circulation
Again, I learned a ton from ours. Why?

It's a 2002 Kenmore Elite 18.5 cu ft (JennAir/Maytag/Whirlpool) and costs $1,900 to replace due to its small size and feezer on bottom. It's hard to get, and most reviews are so-so. Since it's 21.5 years old, we know a $1,900 replacement is lucky to get 6 years. We "don't" want to have to replace, as the cost is high and our options are severely limited (taking off the door of the new unit may open up some more possibilities in this 1952 home).

My wife used to overstuff the bottom drawer which creates bad circulation. The entire unit depends on the freezer as it's one evaporator and a flap. So first symptom of malfunction is freezer is still cold, fridge is getting warmer (say 42F+).

Luckily it's always been the defrost thermostat thus far, the simplest and cheapest piece. Granted I've always heard maybe up to 80% full is optimal, empty is not.

edit: sp
 
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On this topic I took the time to defrost our 9 cu ft chest freezer yesterday, it's been over a year of use and icing wasn't bad.

The thing about chest freezers is there is a tendency to do LIFO, and to be unable to find things.....

Also chest freezer imho is not as cold as a normal freezer, there is no blower, and things take longer to freeze.

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Same here. Doesn't take much for those elements to burn out. Easy to replace though.
Mine looks like a pita to remove as it does pass through the evap (I’d rather not have to relocate anything to do with refrigerant, for fear of causing a leak). I’m hoping it never fails…
 
Mine looks like a pita to remove as it does pass through the evap (I’d rather not have to relocate anything to do with refrigerant, for fear of causing a leak). I’m hoping it never fails…
Odd, they're usually just screwed in with a couple screws behind a panel. They're usually meant to be easy to replace.
 
Odd, they're usually just screwed in with a couple screws behind a panel. They're usually meant to be easy to replace.
I will look again next time to see why i determined pita on mine…though I hope not to go in for a while! Screws no longer there to hold panels anymore and plastic tabs for freezer duct broken. At least it’s 7.5 years of keepin’ on after initial ice up…
 
That's a pretty stupid design-the vast majority of refrigerator/freezers have a manual adjustment for that.
I totally agree the design is a money pit for the customer and a money maker for the parts department and Bosch. Had I known you could stick a wire plastic wire twist in there I would have just left it that way only used a method that looks factory. I bet the bill will be $400 which is money that should not be left on the table but I am pretty much out of luck now. I am still waiting for the part to arrive at the service reps business and he will come out to install it. I do not recommend Bosch because regular repairmen cannot service that brand and I have had bad luck. I previously stated the microwave/toaster oven need a new control panel because the light was dim and that cost quite a bit out of pocket at 3 years old. Right now with the plastic piece stuck in there the refrigerator is staying at exactly 33 degrees which is perfect.
 
I totally agree the design is a money pit for the customer and a money maker for the parts department and Bosch. Had I known you could stick a wire plastic wire twist in there I would have just left it that way only used a method that looks factory. I bet the bill will be $400 which is money that should not be left on the table but I am pretty much out of luck now. I am still waiting for the part to arrive at the service reps business and he will come out to install it. I do not recommend Bosch because regular repairmen cannot service that brand and I have had bad luck. I previously stated the microwave/toaster oven need a new control panel because the light was dim and that cost quite a bit out of pocket at 3 years old. Right now with the plastic piece stuck in there the refrigerator is staying at exactly 33 degrees which is perfect.
Knocking on wood we’ve had better luck with Bosch than any other brands.

Washing machine, dryer, dishwasher, refrigerator.

They just work. And I can find the info I need when I need it.

Unfortunately it seems most appliances are designed to a finite life. Maybe some of the cheapest, low feature ones are different.



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One major thing we’ve encountered, is that it’s far better if the ice making is in the freezer, than in the refrigerator. If you have to have two different control temperatures in the refrigerator space to allow for ice, that’s a trouble point. OP - does your refrigerator make ice in the warmer section?
 
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One major thing we’ve encountered, is that it’s far better if the ice making is in the freezer, than in the refrigerator. If you have to have two different control temperatures in the refrigerator space to allow for ice, that’s a trouble point. OP - does your refrigerator make ice in the warmer section?
This is an issue from almost all refrigerator ice makers, individual results may vary.
We made sure to get a freezer based ice maker. Another thing to remember is the freezer based maker ice will last longer as its temperature is at 0 F or whatever your freezer is set at. Refrigerator Ice maker ice can be many degrees warmer and closer to the melting point.
 
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