why syn

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I have two toyota trucks. I'm the original onwer of both. One is an 84 4x4 22r 5sp reg cab and the other is an 2001 tacoma 2.7l 4cyl 5sp reg cab 4x4. the 84 has 211 thousand miles, 90% with havoline 30W and fram filters. no engine repairs at all. the head has never been off. I'm not even great at maint. OCI's vary from 3k to 7k miles. I run mobil 1 oil 5 w 30 and mobil oil filters in the tacoma. Why should I run syn?
 
Why is because the oil is more stable than a conventional oil, and most toyotas tend to sludge up oil real quick. Stick with m1 over dino, your engine will thank you.
 
Not really true there HOndaGuy...it's just some of the newer vehicles where the engine space was minimized (kinda like "shrink-wrapping" a vehicle around an engine) and airflow was reduced to just about nothing, resulting in some "hot spots" that in turn caused oil coking and thus sludge buildup.

In regard to syns jcal...on regular drain intervals (3k-5k) in "regular" driving in a warm climate (such as yours), the only real major benefit that you'll see is much higher levels of engine cleanliness.

As I've said before though, I absolutely will not run a mineral based PCEO, and so I agree with HondaGuy...I'd pick a high-quality synthetic PCEO over a mineral-based PCEO.

[ May 16, 2004, 04:31 AM: Message edited by: Jelly ]
 
I think you answered your own question! You have 200,000 miles on that Tacoma! Wow!
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The only thing I would change on the Taco is run the oil to 7500-10000 miles.

Daily Drives:
-2003 Toyota Tacoma PreRunner XtraCab, 2.7 Liter , Mobil1 Synthetic SS 5W-30.
ODO 8700 Miles.
-1995 Toyota 4-Runner 3.0 V6, Mobil1 Synthetic SS 10W-30.
ODO 85500 Miles.
http://community.webshots.com/user/amkeer
 
quote:

Originally posted by HOndaGuy:
Why is because the oil is more stable than a conventional oil, and most toyotas tend to sludge up oil real quick. Stick with m1 over dino, your engine will thank you.

I agree with you about synthetic oil, but on the Toyotas, no. I've owned both Honda and Toyota cars, so I'm no partisan (although since I like some torque below 4k rpm, I now own Toyotas
wink.gif
). But being a current Toyota owner, I've researched the sludge issue myself, carefully. It was a problem, but only with a narrow subgroup of a single V-6 design (the 1MZ-FE) and an even smaller subgroup of an I-4 (whose designation I forget at the moment). Toyota has built dozens of other engine designs that are totally uneffected.
 
Well maybe if you were into racing
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. Otherwise, don't mess with success
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.

Still, the Fram thing sends shivers down my spine!
 
I've noticed on the containers of the 15W-40 HDEOs that one of them (I think Delo 400, not sure) lists some European specs. as being met. Does that give that oil any advantage over the ones that don't show such specs? Surely, one of you can give a good response. Thank you.
 
With the advent of GII and GII+ oils along with good additive packages a lot can be done with plane old dino. For it is about long term cleanliness. Most Toyota engines will live a long jealthy life with 3000-5000 mile oil changes on 10W30 dino and never miss a beat. If try to follow the 6 month 7500 mile OCI they recomend you can run into issues especialy with dino 5W30. ENgine deposits become standard with this combination.

Synthetic give you a much longer drain interval if you chose to take advantage of it. You also have fewer issues with deposits. The fact that you can get a nice multi-viscosity like 5W40 synthetic run it for 6 months in any weather short of artic conditions makesit nice as well. THis means that any 6 month 7500 mile OCI can be started or finished with no reguard to ambient temps. It means you can keep the same product on hand for you Porsche,John Deer Diesel 4440, Perkins powered power station and you Tundra! This is why I think that Delvac-1 5W40 in the guise of SUV oil is going to take off like a rocket! You can also get GII/GIII 5W40.

I have a theroy that basicly says that a Toyota will have good UOA with any oil it run synthetic or dino. I am testing dino and synthetics to see if it is true. Delvac 1300 Super is probably going in today and I am not going to change it out till november if temps stay above 10F. THen the next oil is M1R 0W30. I already have a case of it sitting around waiting for winter.
 
Sorry I wasn't clear. the tacome only has 40k miles. I only drive it about 10k miles a year. If the old truck has been able to do 200+ with dino oil and fram filters, why should I run syn in the newer one? Can I do once a year oil changes with mobil 1? Its getting hard to find Havoline straight weight (30W) oil these days.
 
quote:

Originally posted by Jelly:
Why is it PCMO? Why is it not PCEO?

Because PCMO is the industry conventional term for "Passenger Car Motor Oil." You don't go around talking about what kind of "engine oil" you use, do you? This board is about "motor oil."
 
quote:

Originally posted by G-Man II:

quote:

Originally posted by Jelly:
Why is it PCMO? Why is it not PCEO?

Because PCMO is the industry conventional term for "Passenger Car Motor Oil." You don't go around talking about what kind of "engine oil" you use, do you? This board is about "motor oil."


Actually, I do!

To me, an "engine" is what runs on a fuel and powers our vehicles, whereas a "motor" is electrically powered or likewise.

Actually, "motor" is an all-encompassing definition though, thus making is correct to call an "engine" a "motor".

I still call them engines though and I like to talk about engine oil.
 
quote:

Originally posted by jcal:
Sorry I wasn't clear. the tacome only has 40k miles. I only drive it about 10k miles a year. If the old truck has been able to do 200+ with dino oil and fram filters, why should I run syn in the newer one? Can I do once a year oil changes with mobil 1? Its getting hard to find Havoline straight weight (30W) oil these days.

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Straight 30w? Maybe the reason why it's hard to find is there is no real reason for using it anymore?
dunno.gif


Why not a 15-40 or 10-30?
 
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