My mom drives a 93 camry le. She never goes on the highway, never goes above 30mph much. If it rains, she'll drive even slower. So anything more expensive than the cheapest Pep Boys brand tire wouldn't yield a difference whatsoever.
Why not cheaper tires?
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Originally Posted By: cutter
My mom drives a 93 camry le. She never goes on the highway, never goes above 30mph much. If it rains, she'll drive even slower. So anything more expensive than the cheapest Pep Boys brand tire wouldn't yield a difference whatsoever.
Well....the Cam has ABS and that's good...does she know keep her foot on the brake rather than pump the peddle?...if not remind her, okay?
...still...in the rain, SOME tires will work better than others...tread designed to disperse water + rubber compound, allow some tires to stop the car a shorter distance...even at 30mph...even cheap tires will vary in terms of intended use...
Most of the cheapest tires are designed as "touring" tires for smooth/quiet highway cruising and good for little else...I'd bet that a lot of the negative netnews about camrys floating down the highway were made by people driving OEM/cheap $50 touring tires....
My mom drives a 93 camry le. She never goes on the highway, never goes above 30mph much. If it rains, she'll drive even slower. So anything more expensive than the cheapest Pep Boys brand tire wouldn't yield a difference whatsoever.
Well....the Cam has ABS and that's good...does she know keep her foot on the brake rather than pump the peddle?...if not remind her, okay?
...still...in the rain, SOME tires will work better than others...tread designed to disperse water + rubber compound, allow some tires to stop the car a shorter distance...even at 30mph...even cheap tires will vary in terms of intended use...
Most of the cheapest tires are designed as "touring" tires for smooth/quiet highway cruising and good for little else...I'd bet that a lot of the negative netnews about camrys floating down the highway were made by people driving OEM/cheap $50 touring tires....
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Originally Posted By: skyship
You get what you pay for from tyres in stopping distance terms. There is about a 15% in dry distance between a typical quality tyre and the cheapest import, BUT it's about a 25% difference in the wet.
^What Skyship said^
Think of it this way: Football Reference:
Let's say you're in a F-350 travelling at 70 mph and it takes one football field length (100 yards) to do a safe controlled panic stop with tier 1 tires in good condition.
That means it would take an extra 15 yards in optimal conditions or an extra 25 yards in wet conditions to execute the same panic stop with tier 3 tires in good condition.
15% and 25% seem like tiny inconsequential numbers, but applied to interstate highway speeds they are very significant. 15 yards is about 3 car lengths, 25 yds. about 4 car lengths. I know every time I've had to do a high speed panic stop, 3 or 4 car lengths of extra margin would have always been welcome.
Note: I know we're talking about a mid-size car here w/14" tires, I used a F-350 in my example because it's plausible it would take a full football field's length to stop, whereas Dave's car can stop safely in a lesser distance, but the same percentages apply, they just wouldn't be relevant to a reference distance we can all imagine easily.
Dave, get the BFGs you're yearning for and don't look back. The difference in fractions of a penny per mile in cost will be laughable.
You get what you pay for from tyres in stopping distance terms. There is about a 15% in dry distance between a typical quality tyre and the cheapest import, BUT it's about a 25% difference in the wet.
^What Skyship said^
Think of it this way: Football Reference:
Let's say you're in a F-350 travelling at 70 mph and it takes one football field length (100 yards) to do a safe controlled panic stop with tier 1 tires in good condition.
That means it would take an extra 15 yards in optimal conditions or an extra 25 yards in wet conditions to execute the same panic stop with tier 3 tires in good condition.
15% and 25% seem like tiny inconsequential numbers, but applied to interstate highway speeds they are very significant. 15 yards is about 3 car lengths, 25 yds. about 4 car lengths. I know every time I've had to do a high speed panic stop, 3 or 4 car lengths of extra margin would have always been welcome.
Note: I know we're talking about a mid-size car here w/14" tires, I used a F-350 in my example because it's plausible it would take a full football field's length to stop, whereas Dave's car can stop safely in a lesser distance, but the same percentages apply, they just wouldn't be relevant to a reference distance we can all imagine easily.
Dave, get the BFGs you're yearning for and don't look back. The difference in fractions of a penny per mile in cost will be laughable.
I looked up the size 195/70R14 today on tirerack, I came up with the cheapest being Fuzion Touring at $52 each, the most expensive Michelin Defender at $99 each.
To simplify things, let's ignore tax, shipping, installation, balancing, &c. To simplify even further, let's say the Fuzions lasted 50,000 miles, as could be expected and that the Michelins only lasted 50,000 miles as well, but because the car ran over the fender of a '53 Kaiser Manhattan that was laying in the middle of I-35 after falling off a scrap truck and all four tires were totally destroyed.
Fuzion: $52 x 4 for 50,000 miles = 0.416 pennies per mile or $0.00416/mile.
Michelin: $99 x 4 for 50,000 miles = 0.792 pennies per mile or $0.00792/mile.
Just under half a penny per mile for tier 3 performance and just over three quarters of a penny for tier 1 performance.
When you consider the tier 1 tires will probably last longer, are likely to stay in balance longer, and can possibly help avoid more accidents, the penny per mile cost becomes even slimmer.
To simplify things, let's ignore tax, shipping, installation, balancing, &c. To simplify even further, let's say the Fuzions lasted 50,000 miles, as could be expected and that the Michelins only lasted 50,000 miles as well, but because the car ran over the fender of a '53 Kaiser Manhattan that was laying in the middle of I-35 after falling off a scrap truck and all four tires were totally destroyed.
Fuzion: $52 x 4 for 50,000 miles = 0.416 pennies per mile or $0.00416/mile.
Michelin: $99 x 4 for 50,000 miles = 0.792 pennies per mile or $0.00792/mile.
Just under half a penny per mile for tier 3 performance and just over three quarters of a penny for tier 1 performance.
When you consider the tier 1 tires will probably last longer, are likely to stay in balance longer, and can possibly help avoid more accidents, the penny per mile cost becomes even slimmer.
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If I could find a shop that took payments per mile in fractions of a penny, I'd spring for top of the line tires every time.
I don't think price tells you about stopping distance, durability, steering response, wet traction, etc for sure.
Hankook H727 got superior review from customer survey on tire rack, but the wet braking distance is 10' longer than a tire that's cheaper but in a different class (high performance all season instead of touring). Yes it last longer and people love the way it ride, but that doesn't means it is a safer tire than the cheaper tire. Same for Michelin, they seems to last long but they aren't famous for having the best stopping distance. It may be fair to say it is a better tire than a Chinese tire 1/2 price, but that doesn't means it is a better than a Yokohama, Kumho, Bridgestone, Continental, etc that is 25% cheaper.
Hankook H727 got superior review from customer survey on tire rack, but the wet braking distance is 10' longer than a tire that's cheaper but in a different class (high performance all season instead of touring). Yes it last longer and people love the way it ride, but that doesn't means it is a safer tire than the cheaper tire. Same for Michelin, they seems to last long but they aren't famous for having the best stopping distance. It may be fair to say it is a better tire than a Chinese tire 1/2 price, but that doesn't means it is a better than a Yokohama, Kumho, Bridgestone, Continental, etc that is 25% cheaper.
I have always hesitated to buy expensive tires living in the NYC metro area. Our roads SUCK so much (potholes etc....) that alignment is always a concern. I'd feel bad enough wearing out a set of Kumhos or Hankooks let alone Michelins over an alignment issue.
I usually check the reviews on Tirerack and buy highly rated but not super expensive tires.
I currently have Hankook 727's on one car, Kumho KR21's on another and Bridgestone 960's on another.
If I lived where the roads were better I'd give Michelen's a shot. Pirellis and Continentals don't seem especially great.
I usually check the reviews on Tirerack and buy highly rated but not super expensive tires.
I currently have Hankook 727's on one car, Kumho KR21's on another and Bridgestone 960's on another.
If I lived where the roads were better I'd give Michelen's a shot. Pirellis and Continentals don't seem especially great.
Originally Posted By: SlipperyPete
If I could find a shop that took payments per mile in fractions of a penny, I'd spring for top of the line tires every time.
A savings account accepts payments in fractions of a penny per mile.
I agree with PandaBear in his above post: I don't think an expensive tire is better or has a shorter stopping distance than a less expensive one. I just used the most expensive tire (which happened to be Michelin) and the least expensive tire (Fuzion) on a particular website to show that the purchase price of the tires is largely irrelevant in the big picture.
Researching user reviews and professional reviews is a much better way to choose a tire, just don't let the tire's price be a stumbling block. Don't overlook a tire model because it is cheaper or more expensive than what you think it should cost. Gasoline is usually at least 20 times more expensive than tires when considered as a per mile expense, you just get nickeled and dimed by gasoline while tires are a big $$$ item.
If I could find a shop that took payments per mile in fractions of a penny, I'd spring for top of the line tires every time.
A savings account accepts payments in fractions of a penny per mile.
I agree with PandaBear in his above post: I don't think an expensive tire is better or has a shorter stopping distance than a less expensive one. I just used the most expensive tire (which happened to be Michelin) and the least expensive tire (Fuzion) on a particular website to show that the purchase price of the tires is largely irrelevant in the big picture.
Researching user reviews and professional reviews is a much better way to choose a tire, just don't let the tire's price be a stumbling block. Don't overlook a tire model because it is cheaper or more expensive than what you think it should cost. Gasoline is usually at least 20 times more expensive than tires when considered as a per mile expense, you just get nickeled and dimed by gasoline while tires are a big $$$ item.
Originally Posted By: pbm
I have always hesitated to buy expensive tires living in the NYC metro area. Our roads SUCK so much (potholes etc....) that alignment is always a concern.
Find a Firestone and invest in the lifetime alignment.
DO NOT let them talk you into anything else though.
Firestone sometimes has my business for tires in a pinch, and my alignments, and that is all.
I have always hesitated to buy expensive tires living in the NYC metro area. Our roads SUCK so much (potholes etc....) that alignment is always a concern.
Find a Firestone and invest in the lifetime alignment.
DO NOT let them talk you into anything else though.
Firestone sometimes has my business for tires in a pinch, and my alignments, and that is all.
Originally Posted By: daves87rs
But it was a bit of food for thought...going against the "best for your money" crowd. So...for most people, what separates a Kendra from Goodyear?
As a person who sometimes drives on the roads, my answer is that I wish that people who selfishly think only about themselves did not drive. When these selfish, self-centered people riding on the cheapest, bald, unsafe tires are unable to stop or take emergency evasive maneuvers, they run over pedestrians, spin or slide into my car, go off bridges, and use my tax dollars on emergency crews trying to rescue them, etc.
If you cannot afford to keep your car safe, please get off the roads.
But it was a bit of food for thought...going against the "best for your money" crowd. So...for most people, what separates a Kendra from Goodyear?
As a person who sometimes drives on the roads, my answer is that I wish that people who selfishly think only about themselves did not drive. When these selfish, self-centered people riding on the cheapest, bald, unsafe tires are unable to stop or take emergency evasive maneuvers, they run over pedestrians, spin or slide into my car, go off bridges, and use my tax dollars on emergency crews trying to rescue them, etc.
If you cannot afford to keep your car safe, please get off the roads.
Originally Posted By: SlipperyPete
If I could find a shop that took payments per mile in fractions of a penny, I'd spring for top of the line tires every time.
Like Harry and Lloyd, you'll catch your break.
If I could find a shop that took payments per mile in fractions of a penny, I'd spring for top of the line tires every time.
Like Harry and Lloyd, you'll catch your break.
Originally Posted By: GC4lunch
Originally Posted By: daves87rs
But it was a bit of food for thought...going against the "best for your money" crowd. So...for most people, what separates a Kendra from Goodyear?
As a person who sometimes drives on the roads, my answer is that I wish that people who selfishly think only about themselves did not drive. When these selfish, self-centered people riding on the cheapest, bald, unsafe tires are unable to stop or take emergency evasive maneuvers, they run over pedestrians, spin or slide into my car, go off bridges, and use my tax dollars on emergency crews trying to rescue them, etc.
If you cannot afford to keep your car safe, please get off the roads.
But we're talking about new tires here, not bald ones. Now there are tires out there (and we're talking real cheap here) that are that bad. If I wanted to, I could get some Runways for under 200 installed for 4 tires. But, um, yeah, that's not going to happen.But thankfully here, most tires places don't what to risk that.
If they don't care of their car, that is a different story. But I'm not going to fault someone getting Kendra or Doral tires for example, because they are decent tires big box stores carry (like belle tire, for example) for the budget crowd. They are going to last long (milage wise), but at least they are safe on the roads...
And besides, it's not usually the tires, but the drivers anyways..
Originally Posted By: daves87rs
But it was a bit of food for thought...going against the "best for your money" crowd. So...for most people, what separates a Kendra from Goodyear?
As a person who sometimes drives on the roads, my answer is that I wish that people who selfishly think only about themselves did not drive. When these selfish, self-centered people riding on the cheapest, bald, unsafe tires are unable to stop or take emergency evasive maneuvers, they run over pedestrians, spin or slide into my car, go off bridges, and use my tax dollars on emergency crews trying to rescue them, etc.
If you cannot afford to keep your car safe, please get off the roads.
But we're talking about new tires here, not bald ones. Now there are tires out there (and we're talking real cheap here) that are that bad. If I wanted to, I could get some Runways for under 200 installed for 4 tires. But, um, yeah, that's not going to happen.But thankfully here, most tires places don't what to risk that.
If they don't care of their car, that is a different story. But I'm not going to fault someone getting Kendra or Doral tires for example, because they are decent tires big box stores carry (like belle tire, for example) for the budget crowd. They are going to last long (milage wise), but at least they are safe on the roads...
And besides, it's not usually the tires, but the drivers anyways..
JHZR2
Staff member
A new tire is better than an overly worn or used one...
I look at tires like I look at most things - its either a job here/in the first world where people want to make a real wage and are constrained to ensure cleanliness, safety, etc., or it is offshored to the third world.
That's a double whammy, since not only does someone here lost their job and likely become a burden on "the system" for a time, but who knows what free for all there is in terms of pollution, QC/QA, etc.
Assuming that they can be made to the same standards and work fairly well, then again, a cheap newer tire is surely better than a used one that is marginal. But in the more complete picture, Id prefer a tire that has the greatest level of engineering in it to maintain good lifetime, quiet operation and optimal traction. The cheapest of the cheap seem to be copycats, and the in-between can give mixed success, yet sometimes be great values (a set of falkens that were made in Japan that I ran for many years is a good example).
But at the end of the day I still look at it that Im paying for their job, or Im paying for their unemployment benefits, but one way or another, Im paying... so might as well get something out of it and buy a first world made, quality tire that I can count on for many years.
I look at tires like I look at most things - its either a job here/in the first world where people want to make a real wage and are constrained to ensure cleanliness, safety, etc., or it is offshored to the third world.
That's a double whammy, since not only does someone here lost their job and likely become a burden on "the system" for a time, but who knows what free for all there is in terms of pollution, QC/QA, etc.
Assuming that they can be made to the same standards and work fairly well, then again, a cheap newer tire is surely better than a used one that is marginal. But in the more complete picture, Id prefer a tire that has the greatest level of engineering in it to maintain good lifetime, quiet operation and optimal traction. The cheapest of the cheap seem to be copycats, and the in-between can give mixed success, yet sometimes be great values (a set of falkens that were made in Japan that I ran for many years is a good example).
But at the end of the day I still look at it that Im paying for their job, or Im paying for their unemployment benefits, but one way or another, Im paying... so might as well get something out of it and buy a first world made, quality tire that I can count on for many years.
Originally Posted By: daves87rs
But I'm not going to fault someone getting Kendra or Doral tires for example, because they are decent tires big box stores carry (like belle tire, for example) for the budget crowd. They are going to last long (milage wise), but at least they are safe on the roads...
And besides, it's not usually the tires, but the drivers anyways..
The dealer had put 2 new Sumics up front on my "new" used Camry LE....3 months later I found 2 "new" Doral pull-offs for $45/ea out the door that match the Sumics which normally sell for $100+...a savings of $110...
...hence my suggestion to look for such pull-offs at used tire shops...they are really cheap that way....
BTW the Sumic/Doral tires are the GTA65/SDL65 a nice tire...for under $50
But I'm not going to fault someone getting Kendra or Doral tires for example, because they are decent tires big box stores carry (like belle tire, for example) for the budget crowd. They are going to last long (milage wise), but at least they are safe on the roads...
And besides, it's not usually the tires, but the drivers anyways..
The dealer had put 2 new Sumics up front on my "new" used Camry LE....3 months later I found 2 "new" Doral pull-offs for $45/ea out the door that match the Sumics which normally sell for $100+...a savings of $110...
...hence my suggestion to look for such pull-offs at used tire shops...they are really cheap that way....
BTW the Sumic/Doral tires are the GTA65/SDL65 a nice tire...for under $50
Originally Posted By: daves87rs
But I'm not going to fault someone getting Kendra or Doral tires for example, because they are decent tires big box stores carry (like belle tire, for example) for the budget crowd. They are going to last long (milage wise), but at least they are safe on the roads...
Well, they do hold air, and they will get you down the road. I guess I see "safe" as a relative term. Are they safer than riding on donuts? Arguably. Would you be more safe in a tire that handles better and stops shorter, and likely has a more modern rubber compound that stays pliable in the heat and in the cold? Again, arguably.
Tires are four things I never mess around with. I decide which will best suit my needs regardless of price, and then try to get the best deal on those. "Best suiting my needs" typically involves superior wet and dry traction, or at least near the top of the class for those metrics. I don't care too much about tire life, care less about noise and comfort, and don't care at all for the gamble of used tires. My wife and kids are riding on these things.
I've bought BFGoodrich, Firestone, Michelin, and Yokohama recently.
But I'm not going to fault someone getting Kendra or Doral tires for example, because they are decent tires big box stores carry (like belle tire, for example) for the budget crowd. They are going to last long (milage wise), but at least they are safe on the roads...
Well, they do hold air, and they will get you down the road. I guess I see "safe" as a relative term. Are they safer than riding on donuts? Arguably. Would you be more safe in a tire that handles better and stops shorter, and likely has a more modern rubber compound that stays pliable in the heat and in the cold? Again, arguably.
Tires are four things I never mess around with. I decide which will best suit my needs regardless of price, and then try to get the best deal on those. "Best suiting my needs" typically involves superior wet and dry traction, or at least near the top of the class for those metrics. I don't care too much about tire life, care less about noise and comfort, and don't care at all for the gamble of used tires. My wife and kids are riding on these things.
I've bought BFGoodrich, Firestone, Michelin, and Yokohama recently.
Re: hokiefyd
I had used the SUMIC GT65A for 3 months before deciding to get a matching set for the rear (that DIDN'T match the Sumics up front)...and only after "test driving" them in various conditions...they are made by Sumi Rubber (a Sumitomo subsidiary) and are better than rolling donuts...otherwise I would have traded THEM in and gotten a new set of 4 better tires.
For anyone interested, the GT65A and SDL 65A ARE NOT THE SAME AS GT65 or SDL 65...THE "A" is newer model and appears to be better.
I had used the SUMIC GT65A for 3 months before deciding to get a matching set for the rear (that DIDN'T match the Sumics up front)...and only after "test driving" them in various conditions...they are made by Sumi Rubber (a Sumitomo subsidiary) and are better than rolling donuts...otherwise I would have traded THEM in and gotten a new set of 4 better tires.
For anyone interested, the GT65A and SDL 65A ARE NOT THE SAME AS GT65 or SDL 65...THE "A" is newer model and appears to be better.
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Originally Posted By: skyship
Originally Posted By: surfstar
I run the cheapest, decent tires I can get. Was Yokos for a while, now Hankook, Kumho, General, or the like.
Go for H or higher rated and you'll get a well-constructed tire with almost any brand.
You get what you pay for from tyres in stopping distance terms. There is about a 15% in dry distance between a typical quality tyre and the cheapest import, BUT it's about a 25% difference in the wet. The real bad ones are makes no one seems to of heard of before and to confuse things some companies changes names every year.
Every tyres size is different in terms of the best make and type, but this set of German ADAC results might give you an idea:
BRAKING DISTANCE TESTS
Continental, Goodyear, Nokian, Dunlop, Pirelli and Michelin makes good tyres, but the rest are a real mixed bunch in performance terms.
Ha ha, can you translate all that info for us? Looking at some English language testing, Consumer Reports rates all passenger tires they tested, including some 2nd tier, "Good" or "Very Good" in the typical summer performance categories. So they found no huge differences in performance across the brands. They found the biggest differences in expected tread life. But it's unclear how they test that or if they just take the manufacturer's treadlife warranty into account.
Originally Posted By: surfstar
I run the cheapest, decent tires I can get. Was Yokos for a while, now Hankook, Kumho, General, or the like.
Go for H or higher rated and you'll get a well-constructed tire with almost any brand.
You get what you pay for from tyres in stopping distance terms. There is about a 15% in dry distance between a typical quality tyre and the cheapest import, BUT it's about a 25% difference in the wet. The real bad ones are makes no one seems to of heard of before and to confuse things some companies changes names every year.
Every tyres size is different in terms of the best make and type, but this set of German ADAC results might give you an idea:
BRAKING DISTANCE TESTS
Continental, Goodyear, Nokian, Dunlop, Pirelli and Michelin makes good tyres, but the rest are a real mixed bunch in performance terms.
Ha ha, can you translate all that info for us? Looking at some English language testing, Consumer Reports rates all passenger tires they tested, including some 2nd tier, "Good" or "Very Good" in the typical summer performance categories. So they found no huge differences in performance across the brands. They found the biggest differences in expected tread life. But it's unclear how they test that or if they just take the manufacturer's treadlife warranty into account.
Originally Posted By: kam327
Originally Posted By: skyship
Originally Posted By: surfstar
I run the cheapest, decent tires I can get. Was Yokos for a while, now Hankook, Kumho, General, or the like.
Go for H or higher rated and you'll get a well-constructed tire with almost any brand.
You get what you pay for from tyres in stopping distance terms. There is about a 15% in dry distance between a typical quality tyre and the cheapest import, BUT it's about a 25% difference in the wet. The real bad ones are makes no one seems to of heard of before and to confuse things some companies changes names every year.
Every tyres size is different in terms of the best make and type, but this set of German ADAC results might give you an idea:
BRAKING DISTANCE TESTS
Continental, Goodyear, Nokian, Dunlop, Pirelli and Michelin makes good tyres, but the rest are a real mixed bunch in performance terms.
Ha ha, can you translate all that info for us? Looking at some English language testing, Consumer Reports rates all passenger tires they tested, including some 2nd tier, "Good" or "Very Good" in the typical summer performance categories. So they found no huge differences in performance across the brands. They found the biggest differences in expected tread life. But it's unclear how they test that or if they just take the manufacturer's treadlife warranty into account.
Google translate can do this for you. It is not perfect but passable.
Krzys
Originally Posted By: skyship
Originally Posted By: surfstar
I run the cheapest, decent tires I can get. Was Yokos for a while, now Hankook, Kumho, General, or the like.
Go for H or higher rated and you'll get a well-constructed tire with almost any brand.
You get what you pay for from tyres in stopping distance terms. There is about a 15% in dry distance between a typical quality tyre and the cheapest import, BUT it's about a 25% difference in the wet. The real bad ones are makes no one seems to of heard of before and to confuse things some companies changes names every year.
Every tyres size is different in terms of the best make and type, but this set of German ADAC results might give you an idea:
BRAKING DISTANCE TESTS
Continental, Goodyear, Nokian, Dunlop, Pirelli and Michelin makes good tyres, but the rest are a real mixed bunch in performance terms.
Ha ha, can you translate all that info for us? Looking at some English language testing, Consumer Reports rates all passenger tires they tested, including some 2nd tier, "Good" or "Very Good" in the typical summer performance categories. So they found no huge differences in performance across the brands. They found the biggest differences in expected tread life. But it's unclear how they test that or if they just take the manufacturer's treadlife warranty into account.
Google translate can do this for you. It is not perfect but passable.
Krzys
I've always been a cheap tire kind of guy. When it came time to replace the stock tires (after 8 years) on my old Buick I got Kumho Solus KR-21... they were cheap, and I had Kumhos previously (albeit the Ecsta line) on a different car. They were OK but I noticed right away that when it was wet and I would stop with my front wheels on a paint strip, that I could spin the wheels very very easily. Somewhat disconcerting. Eventually that translated into some of the worst wet weather traction I have ever experienced, enough that I dumped the Kumhos when they were less than half worn and replaced them with Hydroedges. The Michelins were easily the best tire I've owned.
So the conclusion is, I will definitely still consider cheap tires... but I will also consider the more expensive ones, which I wouldn't have done previously.
So the conclusion is, I will definitely still consider cheap tires... but I will also consider the more expensive ones, which I wouldn't have done previously.
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I wanted some cheap BUT decent tires for my Matrix, 205-55-16 which can be a pricy size to deal with. I waited for Discount tire direct to have one of their $100 rebate card sales. Found some Hankook Ventus V2's listed for $88. The brick and mortar stores(closest one is 90 minutes away so 3 hrs round trip) had them listed for $55 which I wanted to PRICE MATCH. At first the rep wouldn't do it so I asked for the manager being polite the whole time of course. The mgr said to email him the link and he would call me back. Which he did after five minutes then proceeded to take my order over the phone. The total was $240 - $100 rebate = $140 plus $60 install at Walmart = $200. After 5k miles I like them alot.
Plus the rebate form could be done electronically online which I submitted right after I placed the order. Received rebate card in a few weeks.
Plus the rebate form could be done electronically online which I submitted right after I placed the order. Received rebate card in a few weeks.
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