Why not cheaper tires?

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My buddy and I got into a major discussion about this with some car friends this afternoon. He just put some Kendra Keneticas (Kendra used to have a joint venture with Cooper) on his beater Neon. He comment how decent riding they were for the price.


He laughed at the fact the I was talking about putting BFG Advantage TAs or Cooper CS4s on the car. "It's just a cheap Cavalier with 14s on it- your car will never know the difference" He feels the car has no has no handling, and I'll never see the milage warranty on them anyways (might see them on a 40k tire, maybe!) He says that if they were bigger wheels or a better car (ha!), it might be worth it. That, and he says they set much better tire standards than they have in the past. He thinks since the car can't go that fast anyways, that an s or T rated (think he needs to talk to Capri and that one) would be fine. He wouldn't go any higher than a Touring TA or some Uniroyal tire if I wanted to spend money...
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While some is a load, he does make a good point.It's not anyways going to be the best tire you need, since many dumb people can destroy those too. What a tire needs is to be cared for-ie rotated, aired, and checked weekly-for 85% of the tires out there. Now this I can agree with a bit, since I did grow up with budget tires on some of my first cars, and never had issues with them. Now a line I hear a lot is that you need to buy the best because it's the most important thing your life depends on. But....what they are never checked?

Now, this really does not change my mind, as I'm still leaning toward BFGs anyways. But it was a bit of food for thought...going against the "best for your money" crowd. So...for most people, what separates a Kendra from Goodyear?


(PS, notice I said most people, as we know about traction, plys, and so on... ;))
 
I use the cheapest tires that`ll fit on my car (currently Kumho`s) and they ride better than the twice as expensive Yokohama`s.
 
I dunno - Last year on my SUV went from Michelin LTXs to General Grabber HTS. Also on the wife's we ran Michelin, then Toyo premium then last year had Kuhmo's. So far we're both happy with what we have and they were cheaper than previous tires. Maybe more time/mileage will tell.
 
I run the cheapest, decent tires I can get. Was Yokos for a while, now Hankook, Kumho, General, or the like.
Go for H or higher rated and you'll get a well-constructed tire with almost any brand.
 
I run dirt cheap tires from Canadian Tire.

The ones I buy are rebranded Hankook tires, slightly wider then stock, and I keep them overinflated (44psi).

I will say this; they likely don't last as long as a really high quality tire. They likely don't grip as much either, on wet pavement they're rather loose (though this could be from the high pressure).

What I can say is, they still last about 60,000+km, and at the price point I've paid for them the next best tire would have to last at least 110,000km to be cost effective. Considering most of my tires are lost because they've been irreperably damaged by road debris: I'll take the cheap tires. I'm sure those with more luck would buy the better tires to avoid the hassle of having to get new rubber.

The difference in traction is minimal. Its never going to be what you'd live to regret in a road car to say the least. Road noise could be lower with better tires but I don't care about it (any noise is minimal).

Also these cheap tires seem to have a soft compound. While that may wear out more, it may also explain why they've been utterly -fantastic- tires in the winter.

My two cents. I'll stick to cheap.
 
I go for the cheapest that fit my needs. for cars the el cheapo. and then for trailers and trucks I consider load range/ratings first then price.
 
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I agree a good budget tire will do you fine. I have a set of kelly explorers on my sl2 they have been great i have 20, 000 on them and expect close to triple that.
 
Originally Posted By: Dakota1820
I agree a good budget tire will do you fine. I have a set of kelly explorers on my sl2 they have been great i have 20, 000 on them and expect close to triple that.



Well, if my wife can get over 50k on a set of goodyear conquest (they were rated for 40k), then I think you have a good chance...
 
Originally Posted By: Texan4Life
I go for the cheapest that fit my needs. for cars the el cheapo. and then for trailers and trucks I consider load range/ratings first then price.


OT, you use the most expensive oil and filters available, but turn around and buy the cheapest tires available? The logic is mind baffling.

The tires are the only 4 things keeping you on the road.

And dave, you must have posted at least 20 threads on this topic over the years. I almost want to write you a check for the price difference and mail it to you so that this topic won't come up again.
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I try to get the best of both worlds, by purchasing gently used (ha!) tires from other forum members. It doesn't always happen where some one local is selling, but I only need new tires every few years, so time is on my side.

I'll be darned if I'm going to pay $1,000+ for a set of tires if I can help it! Heck I got my OEM Enkei rims with Dunlop tires with TPMS for a little more than that!

I got a set of Civic EX-L rims and half-used OEM tires with TPMS to replace the bald tires on her steelies for $450!
 
I go with the cheapest and best tire I can find at the used tire store first.

If I let them know in advance that I will need tires soon they will be on the lookout for a set of 4 nice tires. Lots of dead cars and trucks from accidents down to age of the vehicle.

Right now I'm running used Michelin tires with plenty of thread left, from the used tire place.

You can sometimes find good deals on CL or the newspaper personal selling ads.....it's worth a shot.
 
Buying cheap always requires buying smart

...some cheap treads are better than others, and knowing the difference requires research...do your homework.


...one other option is buying "pull-offs" from used tire shops...they're often virutally new, taken off for an upgrade by a new car owner...
 
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traction and logicality is major deal between tires for me.

When I got my corolla , the tires on there had almost near tredwear, but smallest break would cause sequel and smoke would come out tires like I did burn out with 400 HP car. This was stopping at red lights going a little over speed limit.

I switched all 4 of them and all that is gone , breaking is significantly better.
 
Originally Posted By: The Critic
Originally Posted By: Texan4Life
I go for the cheapest that fit my needs. for cars the el cheapo. and then for trailers and trucks I consider load range/ratings first then price.


OT, you use the most expensive oil and filters available, but turn around and buy the cheapest tires available? The logic is mind baffling.

The tires are the only 4 things keeping you on the road.

And dave, you must have posted at least 20 threads on this topic over the years. I almost want to write you a check for the price difference and mail it to you so that this topic won't come up again.
lol.gif




You can just call me the tire guy...
wink.gif



Hey, at least they aren't anyways about me anymore...must have learned something in those 20 threads...
grin.gif



Oh, the questions I asked...
whistle.gif
lol.gif
 
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Originally Posted By: surfstar
I run the cheapest, decent tires I can get. Was Yokos for a while, now Hankook, Kumho, General, or the like.
Go for H or higher rated and you'll get a well-constructed tire with almost any brand.


You get what you pay for from tyres in stopping distance terms. There is about a 15% in dry distance between a typical quality tyre and the cheapest import, BUT it's about a 25% difference in the wet. The real bad ones are makes no one seems to of heard of before and to confuse things some companies changes names every year.
Every tyres size is different in terms of the best make and type, but this set of German ADAC results might give you an idea:

BRAKING DISTANCE TESTS

Continental, Goodyear, Nokian, Dunlop, Pirelli and Michelin makes good tyres, but the rest are a real mixed bunch in performance terms.
 
Originally Posted By: skyship
Originally Posted By: surfstar
I run the cheapest, decent tires I can get. Was Yokos for a while, now Hankook, Kumho, General, or the like.
Go for H or higher rated and you'll get a well-constructed tire with almost any brand.


You get what you pay for from tyres in stopping distance terms. There is about a 15% in dry distance between a typical quality tyre and the cheapest import, BUT it's about a 25% difference in the wet. The real bad ones are makes no one seems to of heard of before and to confuse things some companies changes names every year.
Every tyres size is different in terms of the best make and type, but this set of German ADAC results might give you an idea:

BRAKING DISTANCE TESTS

Continental, Goodyear, Nokian, Dunlop, Pirelli and Michelin makes good tyres, but the rest are a real mixed bunch in performance terms.



Different compounds, maybe?
 
My set of Hankook H727 tires are probably in the budget realm, but I've been really happy with them.

After rebates and stuff, I paid about $400 installed.
 
If its a beater car that you dont really care about, sure put the cheapest tires on it.

If you plan on keeping the car long enough to put ANOTHER set on, i would NOT skimp on tires. In my opinion most tires are pretty similar the first 1000 miles, quiet smooth stable. But at 10-20k miles, the cheap tires those these qualities and good tires dont.
 
Originally Posted By: stephen9666
My set of Hankook H727 tires are probably in the budget realm, but I've been really happy with them.

After rebates and stuff, I paid about $400 installed.



I think I'd still put them above brands like Kendra or Starfire, which are true budget brands...
 
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