If the base coat is not adhering well, a clear wont keep it down any better.
Why is painting so hard? Even a simple metal bracket.
- Thread starter Kurtatron
- Start date
That's certainly not true.
Get a scrap piece of metal , prep it , and try the method i mentioned. Several thin coats, lots of time in between. First coat super thin and let it dry at least 30 min to an hour. Second coat thin as well , wait an hour. last coat heavier to gloss a bit.
Some primers need 24hrs before topcoating. I like rustoleum rust reformer. But it needs 24hrs before painting.
Some primers need 24hrs before topcoating. I like rustoleum rust reformer. But it needs 24hrs before painting.
Last edited:
Most people now associate cross link as a 2k products
Yes Enamels take solvent evaporation and oxidation to fully cure yes cross link.
Lacquers are solvent evaporation only
I believe that this is the technical data sheet for the particular product: https://www.rustoleum.com/~/media/D...al/PRO-01_Professional_Enamel_Sprays_TDS.ashx
If this is the correct product TDS, it is alkyd based, which means it takes about a week to a month to cure.
Was this a textured color? If not, either your application is too light or the color is reacting badly with the primer. Just painted (4 years) some cast iron rotary engine side plates with VHT engine paint and had excellent results-one step no primer.
Solvent and friction/impact resistant almost as good as a factory paint.
Today’s paint is definitely different than 40 years ago but not like what you’re getting there. Some of it is still good/excellent quality.
Solvent and friction/impact resistant almost as good as a factory paint.
Today’s paint is definitely different than 40 years ago but not like what you’re getting there. Some of it is still good/excellent quality.
I've had good results with the Rustoleum Professional Enamel line....but it takes a lot of cure time before it becomes durable. I painted an off-road style bumper with it and got a few chips from handling in the first week or so after painting. After about two weeks I could hit it with a hammer and it wouldn't chip.
It was bare metal. I degreased it with some brake cleaner, sanded it a bit with a scotch-brite pad, then used POR15's cleaner/degreaser followed by POR15's Metal Prep. The Metal Prep etches the clean metal and leaves a zinc phospate coating to prevent future rust and improve adhesion.
Then I used some Rustoleum Professional enamel primer followed up with their Professional Enamel gloss black top coat. I painted it 12 years ago and it still looks perfect.
It was bare metal. I degreased it with some brake cleaner, sanded it a bit with a scotch-brite pad, then used POR15's cleaner/degreaser followed by POR15's Metal Prep. The Metal Prep etches the clean metal and leaves a zinc phospate coating to prevent future rust and improve adhesion.
Then I used some Rustoleum Professional enamel primer followed up with their Professional Enamel gloss black top coat. I painted it 12 years ago and it still looks perfect.
Home Depot sells Kleen-Strip Concrete & Metal Prep, which is phosphoric acid, for cheap. It removes rust, and etches the surface for paint. Good stuff.
For the longest lasting results, I like Por-15 paint, used as a primer. This stuff is killer tough. Follow with a UV resistant top coat, as needed. Rustolium is good for the price, but it marks up really easily. I used a similar alkyd enamel on a lathe stand I made. Adding hardener helps with durability.
I’ve had Rust-Oleum hang on with the littlest of prep. I’ve used crushable Rust-Oleum on the hydrostatic test stamp on a steel scuba tank without primer. It’s still holding up against salt water. For paint on metal, the general advice is to clean - I like to do a solvent-borne cleaner for wax/oil/silicone and then waterborne like glass cleaner to take care of body oils and remaining solvent. Then sand and prime. Ospho can work wonders on rust.
the two-step method I learned at a community college auto body class. If I’m not mistaken, that angle iron is galvanized. Generally, etch prime isn’t recommended but I’ve never had a problem using such thing on galvanized steel. I’ve used Rust-Oleum Automotive Etch Prime on a OEM Toyota sliding door hinge, didn’t sand but used SEM Solve and Sprayway Glass Cleaner to wipe off any contaminants before hitting it up with primer. Let that flash for an hour or so, then I used PPG Deltron basecoat until hiding. I think it’ll hold up.
the two-step method I learned at a community college auto body class. If I’m not mistaken, that angle iron is galvanized. Generally, etch prime isn’t recommended but I’ve never had a problem using such thing on galvanized steel. I’ve used Rust-Oleum Automotive Etch Prime on a OEM Toyota sliding door hinge, didn’t sand but used SEM Solve and Sprayway Glass Cleaner to wipe off any contaminants before hitting it up with primer. Let that flash for an hour or so, then I used PPG Deltron basecoat until hiding. I think it’ll hold up.
I had to run an air conditioner in the garage to get any decent paint adhesion. Humid as heck here.
Similar threads
