Why is HDEO better for OPE, than regular oil?

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1,007
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Pa, USA
It seems its popular opinion on here that HDEO or diesel oil is better for OPEs than your regular conventional or synthetic API rated oils are. I be ready to believe that too, but I like some hard concrete facts. If I'm going to tell people, than I like to be able to give a reason why?
 
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Slovenia EU
Since most of OPE engines runs without oil filters...they benifit of extra TBN numbers...stronger oil base also lowers oil consumption....since air cooled engines are harder on oil too...
 
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wv
Ive never had any luck telling anyone anything oil related lol. Once they are convinced that cub cadet oil or honda oil or briggs oil etc etc is what their machines use then its usually set in stone. 5w40 rotella gets alot of talk in the 4 stroke world of 4wheelers, dirt bikes and side by sides...so those guys are more likely to run the same oil in their OPE. I dont think u will find a case of one oil verses the other ruined my engine etc..
 
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12,924
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Northern Kentucky
A synthetic 10w30 or thicker in the hot weather, like 10w40 synthetic. Alternatively a 5w30 synthetic helps with cold starts. Mobil 1 High Mileage is available in all these grades and offers a SL additive package that other 30 grades can't because of ZDDP limitations. The 10w40 is SN because of the higher allowable limits on the 40 grade
 

NH73

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Originally Posted By: 901Memphis
A synthetic 10w30 or thicker in the hot weather, like 10w40 synthetic. Alternatively a 5w30 synthetic helps with cold starts. Mobil 1 High Mileage is available in all these grades and offers a SL additive package that other 30 grades can't because of ZDDP limitations. The 10w40 is SN because of the higher allowable limits on the 40 grade
Mobil 1 High Mileage isn't a HDEO.
 

NH73

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Pa, USA
Originally Posted By: krismoriah72
Ive never had any luck telling anyone anything oil related lol. Once they are convinced that cub cadet oil or honda oil or briggs oil etc etc is what their machines use then its usually set in stone. 5w40 rotella gets alot of talk in the 4 stroke world of 4wheelers, dirt bikes and side by sides...so those guys are more likely to run the same oil in their OPE. I dont think u will find a case of one oil verses the other ruined my engine etc..
If someone wants to use OEM oil and pay more for it and use it in there machines, fine, that there right. I won't be convincing him/her anyway. As for me, I learn those oils aren't any better than the cheaper or cheapest oil in the stores. I sooner save the money or use it to buy better oil.
 
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7,715
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MI
Because the major commercial OPE equipment manufacturers think it is?? Monkey see, monkey do. That's enough for me. Others can, and will, do as they please. The oils branded by Kohler, Kawasaki, Exmark, etc. are all rated HDEO. No need to pay extra for theirs, when Rotella, Chevron, and others are available at very reasonable prices.
 
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Houston, TX
Originally Posted By: doitmyself
The oils branded by Kohler, Kawasaki, Exmark, etc. are all rated HDEO. No need to pay extra for theirs, when Rotella, Chevron, and others are available at very reasonable prices.
Especially since the OEM oils are likely made by Chevron, Shell, XOM, etc.
 
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12,924
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Northern Kentucky
Originally Posted By: NH73
Originally Posted By: 901Memphis
A synthetic 10w30 or thicker in the hot weather, like 10w40 synthetic. Alternatively a 5w30 synthetic helps with cold starts. Mobil 1 High Mileage is available in all these grades and offers a SL additive package that other 30 grades can't because of ZDDP limitations. The 10w40 is SN because of the higher allowable limits on the 40 grade
Mobil 1 High Mileage isn't a HDEO.
I was responding to JC1s question
 
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4,618
Location
The Garden State
Originally Posted By: doitmyself
Because the major commercial OPE equipment manufacturers think it is?? Monkey see, monkey do. That's enough for me. Others can, and will, do as they please. The oils branded by Kohler, Kawasaki, Exmark, etc. are all rated HDEO. No need to pay extra for theirs, when Rotella, Chevron, and others are available at very reasonable prices.
John Deere's 10W-30 is API rated SN so it's not HDEO. Whimsey
 
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Upstate NY
I haven't yet run a HDEO in my OPE since my car fleet doesn't need it. The cars get synthetic 5w-30 or 5w-20, so that's what the OPE uses. No ill effects yet. hide
 

JTK

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13,083
Location
Buffalo, NY
I know participating in this type of conversation and chatting with some folks who live in extremely hot and humid climates over the years, they saw longer OPE engine life using 40 or 50 weight HDEO variants over standard SAE30 or 10w30. Other than that, is it a proven fact that HDEOs are better than passenger car oils for OPE? Not really. IMO, 10w30 or SAE30 continues to be recommended after all these years because it's a simple recognizable engine oil that will offer an acceptable range of protection for the engine. To me, it keeps on keeping on for marketing purposes. Those who even read the labels of $199 mowers might shy away from a particular model if it recommended "exotic" 15w40, 5w40 or 20w50. Your average homeowner doesn't know those oils exist .
 
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12,394
Location
Indiana
Originally Posted By: 901Memphis
Originally Posted By: NH73
Originally Posted By: 901Memphis
A synthetic 10w30 or thicker in the hot weather, like 10w40 synthetic. Alternatively a 5w30 synthetic helps with cold starts. Mobil 1 High Mileage is available in all these grades and offers a SL additive package that other 30 grades can't because of ZDDP limitations. The 10w40 is SN because of the higher allowable limits on the 40 grade
Mobil 1 High Mileage isn't a HDEO.
I was responding to JC1s question
I've always been under the impression an A3/B3 was an HDEO? shrug
 
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2,160
Location
Ottumwa, Iowa
Originally Posted By: NH73
It seems its popular opinion on here that HDEO or diesel oil is better for OPEs than your regular conventional or synthetic API rated oils are. I be ready to believe that too, but I like some hard concrete facts. If I'm going to tell people, than I like to be able to give a reason why?
It isn't. Small engines just need engine oil of a relatively normal viscosity kept at the proper level and changed every once in a while will make them last longer than you care to use them. The only time you might have issues is if you were using 30-50 weight in sub zero temps without letting everything warm up or 0w20 in Texas in the summer in an old Wisconsin engine or something like that. The only time it might be useful if if you are making money with ope.
 
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10,065
Location
Jupiter, Florida
Originally Posted By: krismoriah72
Ive never had any luck telling anyone anything oil related lol.
No kidding. There are even members here that post terrible UOA results, then refuse to change to an oil with known (and proven) better performance. I learned my lessons in two fields. Years of development of very high HP turbocharged road race cars, and the failure of two stationary Honda water pumps using Pennzoil 10W-30, specified in the owners manual. Further proven by the enormous number of rapid generator failures after the South Florida hurricanes left all of us without power for months. In all cases, extreme heat and low viscosity are responsible for the failures. HDEO in higher viscosity formulations is robust enough to handle 265 degree oil temp (130 deg C ) without substantial loss of protection. Note: that's the oil temp from my Kawasaki powered lawnmower after a typical mow. I'm not claiming your Toyota Camry needs HDEO. Far from it. I'm stating that hot running air cooled engines, operated under very high load (such as a 4500 watt, water heating element on a 5000W generator in South Florida) is asking for trouble with 5W-20 oils. Many people thought they knew better and found out the hard way.
 
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15,325
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Upper Midwest
Originally Posted By: Cujet
I'm not claiming your Toyota Camry needs HDEO. Far from it. I'm stating that hot running air cooled engines, operated under very high load (such as a 4500 watt, water heating element on a 5000W generator in South Florida) is asking for trouble with 5W-20 oils. Many people thought they knew better and found out the hard way
You had people in Florida running air cooled generators on 5W-20?
 
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28,129
Location
Regina, Saskatchewan, Canada
One thing I would add is that at least Mobil's monogrades in Canada are all dual rated (or diesel only). So, if one was following a monograde recommendation and buying from Imperial Oil, it would be an HDEO.
 
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3,444
Location
NC
Small engine oils like Kohler are supposed to be specially formulated for high shear resistance and consumption. Less consumption equals cleaner pistons from what I have read about it. Kohler oil, for example, has some of the same certifications as Shell T1 monogrades, but has a rating of SJ for passenger cars.
 
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590
Location
WV
Just some random thoughts... My guess is that OEM oil is just rebranded famous brand oil, probably HDEO from the zinc content reported in VOAs. If you want to look at oil specs and try to pick oil for, let's say a 20 something HP garden tractor with a filter, the the aforementioned M1HM in 1w30 or 10w40 is an awfully hard oil to beat. I was once told, back in 1994, by a Mobil engineer, that if I used My in my JD 318 I'd never have to worry about the engine failing. Well fast forward 22 years and 900 hours later an she runs like new, the only part in the motor replaces were two valve seals. Small engines, filtered or not are rugged and survive in spite of abusive care, (or lack thereof). Standard HDEO oils like Rotella, or Valvoline Blue seem to me to be an excellent compromise between all out spending and going cheap, while providing excellent protection. You can spend more, but you're reaching the point of diminishing returns. The thing to remember is, what is "enough" protection? Once you have enough, anything more is a waste. I guess deciding what is enough is the hard part.
 
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