Interesting---the PS rack on my 97 Avalon had to be replaced due to a leak, and the power steering pump had to be replaced last year....I did not do any mantenance on the PS pump but now that I read BITOG.....
Why is ATF Recommended for PS System
- Thread starter parimento1
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I also forgot to ask, how many miles during those 10 years?
i replaed my transmission fluid with redlines power steering fluid long time ago works far better
during the 10 years I had about 120,000mi
MolaKule
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Indeed, ATF is often specified for Power Steering units.
And yes, ATF is simply a special hydraulic oil.
https://bobistheoilguy.com/forums/threads/atf-fluids.57857/
And yes, ATF is simply a special hydraulic oil.
https://bobistheoilguy.com/forums/threads/atf-fluids.57857/
Probably an inferior rebuild, but could have been due to metal particulate matter left in the system.
It's real tough to get it all out.
It's real tough to get it all out.
An interesting thing about my truck. It is a chevy S10 and in the Owners manual for the US it specifies only "GM XXX PS fluid" but here in Chile the recomendation was Dexron II. So, I suppose that both fluids will work just as well. I finally used MC Mercon V and have no problems so far (i've driven arround 10000 km), the steering is light and the system works very silently.
Parimento1, one thing that may be a factor in this is the possiblity that the metal that you mentioned may not have been completely gotten out of the power steering system.
A-1Cardone recommends that a in-line power steering filter be installed in the low pressure return line.
This is the SAME filter that is used on transmission lines.
Magnefine makes a very good one, with a internal magnet to catch metal, a filter element, and a pressure bypass valve to keep fluid flowing should the filter become clogged.
I would highly recommend one with any power steering pump or rack replacement.
Also, if ATF is specified.....that is what you should use.
A synthetic ATF would be even better.
Redline Synthetic Power Steering Fluid (meeting ATF specifications) and Mobil 1 brands that have been mentioned are BOTH excellent choices.
You may have to go to a racing supply house to get the Redline, but Mobil 1 is widely available.
A-1Cardone recommends that a in-line power steering filter be installed in the low pressure return line.
This is the SAME filter that is used on transmission lines.
Magnefine makes a very good one, with a internal magnet to catch metal, a filter element, and a pressure bypass valve to keep fluid flowing should the filter become clogged.
I would highly recommend one with any power steering pump or rack replacement.
Also, if ATF is specified.....that is what you should use.
A synthetic ATF would be even better.
Redline Synthetic Power Steering Fluid (meeting ATF specifications) and Mobil 1 brands that have been mentioned are BOTH excellent choices.
You may have to go to a racing supply house to get the Redline, but Mobil 1 is widely available.
yea that is a good point, there still may have been metal in there. Currently I have Shell ATF in there thats DexIII compatible. I will definitely put synthetic in there soon, as I am gonna flush out this ATF because of the possibility that there might be more metal in there. How do u recommend that I flush the PS system?
I don't know when it started, but power steering used ATF for many years. It was only in the last while that PS fluid was speced; more profit for dealers.
Originally Posted By: dwendt44
I don't know when it started, but power steering used ATF for many years. It was only in the last while that PS fluid was speced; more profit for dealers.
There were some early ones. My 1972 Dodge pickup called for power steering fluid in the power steering, not ATF.
I don't know when it started, but power steering used ATF for many years. It was only in the last while that PS fluid was speced; more profit for dealers.
There were some early ones. My 1972 Dodge pickup called for power steering fluid in the power steering, not ATF.
Yes even companies lik Chrysler that used Hydralic fluid for year's have gone over to ATF+4 since it has better cold temp. properties as well as high temp properties!!! So usualy ATF is a better fluid and additive package... Most pure hydralic fluids are just the base stock with a small amount of anticorosive and some type of anti-foam... Most ATF's have the same companet's but also have some anti wear additives and friction modifer's as well depending on the brand and type of ATF. I havenever had a Toyota power steering pump fail in less then 10 year's time with most of them going 13 year's or more. I even had one that ran the first 6 year's on factory fill then the the next 7 on MMO...I had to fix it out onthe trail and I forgott to ever drain out the MMO and refill with ATF so it was a mix of whater was inthe steering gear box and that 3/4-1 quart of MMO I topped off with after fixing the steeringline... My point is that I doubt it was the fluid since most people just run them dry and then put what ever they have lying around in them!!! I had an old Ford that i used to run Gear lube in that pump since it leaked badly and I was getting rid of it!!!I ran it with gear lube for man must of been 6 months to a year.....That car was ready for the crusher so I was not going to spend the money for a new rack!
Yes even companies lik Chrysler that used Hydralic fluid for year's have gone over to ATF+4 since it has better cold temp. properties as well as high temp properties!!! So usualy ATF is a better fluid and additive package... Most pure hydralic fluids are just the base stock with a small amount of anticorosive and some type of anti-foam... Most ATF's have the same companet's but also have some anti wear additives and friction modifer's as well depending on the brand and type of ATF. I havenever had a Toyota power steering pump fail in less then 10 year's time with most of them going 13 year's or more. I even had one that ran the first 6 year's on factory fill then the the next 7 on MMO...I had to fix it out onthe trail and I forgott to ever drain out the MMO and refill with ATF so it was a mix of whater was inthe steering gear box and that 3/4-1 quart of MMO I topped off with after fixing the steeringline... My point is that I doubt it was the fluid since most people just run them dry and then put what ever they have lying around in them!!! I had an old Ford that i used to run Gear lube in that pump since it leaked badly and I was getting rid of it!!!I ran it with gear lube for man must of been 6 months to a year.....That car was ready for the crusher so I was not going to spend the money for a new rack!
Heck our racks to lift the cars specify Dex II or III as well. Good hydraulic fluid (what it does in the valve body of an automatic trans!) too.
Quote:
How do u recommend that I flush the PS system?
Get 3 quarts of synthetic ATF (Mobil 1, Amsoil, Redline, etc.), you'll flush through 2 quarts and have 1 quart for top offs.
1. Drive around to warm up the fluid.
2. Jack and support the entire front end.
3. Disconnect the return line to the power steering reservoir and route it into a catch pan/jug, and plug the reservoir hole.
4. If there is fluid still in the reservoir, then turn the steering wheel from left lock to right lock 3 times. Add fluid before if needed.
5. Use step 4 as a gauge of how much fluid will come out.
6. Top off the reservoir with your ATF and turn the wheels from left lock to right lock at least 4 times.
7. Repeat step 6 until you have used 2 quarts of ATF.
8. Re-connect the return line to the reservoir.
9. Top off the reservoir, but leave the cap off.
10. Start the engine and turn the wheels from left lock to right lock 10 times and shut off the engine.
11. Top off the reservoir and replace the cap.
12. Lower the vehicle and drive around to warm up the fluid.
13. Inspect fluid level and add if needed.
Sounds like a lot, but it's really easy once you figure out how to remove the lines, which can be a pain in the a**.
How do u recommend that I flush the PS system?
Get 3 quarts of synthetic ATF (Mobil 1, Amsoil, Redline, etc.), you'll flush through 2 quarts and have 1 quart for top offs.
1. Drive around to warm up the fluid.
2. Jack and support the entire front end.
3. Disconnect the return line to the power steering reservoir and route it into a catch pan/jug, and plug the reservoir hole.
4. If there is fluid still in the reservoir, then turn the steering wheel from left lock to right lock 3 times. Add fluid before if needed.
5. Use step 4 as a gauge of how much fluid will come out.
6. Top off the reservoir with your ATF and turn the wheels from left lock to right lock at least 4 times.
7. Repeat step 6 until you have used 2 quarts of ATF.
8. Re-connect the return line to the reservoir.
9. Top off the reservoir, but leave the cap off.
10. Start the engine and turn the wheels from left lock to right lock 10 times and shut off the engine.
11. Top off the reservoir and replace the cap.
12. Lower the vehicle and drive around to warm up the fluid.
13. Inspect fluid level and add if needed.
Sounds like a lot, but it's really easy once you figure out how to remove the lines, which can be a pain in the a**.
Originally Posted By: ConfederateTyrant
Quote:
How do u recommend that I flush the PS system?
Get 3 quarts of synthetic ATF (Mobil 1, Amsoil, Redline, etc.), you'll flush through 2 quarts and have 1 quart for top offs.
1. Drive around to warm up the fluid.
2. Jack and support the entire front end.
3. Disconnect the return line to the power steering reservoir and route it into a catch pan/jug, and plug the reservoir hole.
4. If there is fluid still in the reservoir, then turn the steering wheel from left lock to right lock 3 times. Add fluid before if needed.
5. Use step 4 as a gauge of how much fluid will come out.
6. Top off the reservoir with your ATF and turn the wheels from left lock to right lock at least 4 times.
7. Repeat step 6 until you have used 2 quarts of ATF.
8. Re-connect the return line to the reservoir.
9. Top off the reservoir, but leave the cap off.
10. Start the engine and turn the wheels from left lock to right lock 10 times and shut off the engine.
11. Top off the reservoir and replace the cap.
12. Lower the vehicle and drive around to warm up the fluid.
13. Inspect fluid level and add if needed.
Sounds like a lot, but it's really easy once you figure out how to remove the lines, which can be a pain in the a**.
I usually do all of that, but I generally pull the injector fuse, plug wire to coil, etc to prevent the car from starting. I then have an assistant crank the car over. Since it won't start you'll get a good flow of PS fluid coming out. I will generally flush 2-3 quarts through the system that way. Trying to do it with the car started made a big mess
My LT1 specs regular PS fluid, and I generally use the Valvoline Synthetic stuff
Quote:
How do u recommend that I flush the PS system?
Get 3 quarts of synthetic ATF (Mobil 1, Amsoil, Redline, etc.), you'll flush through 2 quarts and have 1 quart for top offs.
1. Drive around to warm up the fluid.
2. Jack and support the entire front end.
3. Disconnect the return line to the power steering reservoir and route it into a catch pan/jug, and plug the reservoir hole.
4. If there is fluid still in the reservoir, then turn the steering wheel from left lock to right lock 3 times. Add fluid before if needed.
5. Use step 4 as a gauge of how much fluid will come out.
6. Top off the reservoir with your ATF and turn the wheels from left lock to right lock at least 4 times.
7. Repeat step 6 until you have used 2 quarts of ATF.
8. Re-connect the return line to the reservoir.
9. Top off the reservoir, but leave the cap off.
10. Start the engine and turn the wheels from left lock to right lock 10 times and shut off the engine.
11. Top off the reservoir and replace the cap.
12. Lower the vehicle and drive around to warm up the fluid.
13. Inspect fluid level and add if needed.
Sounds like a lot, but it's really easy once you figure out how to remove the lines, which can be a pain in the a**.
I usually do all of that, but I generally pull the injector fuse, plug wire to coil, etc to prevent the car from starting. I then have an assistant crank the car over. Since it won't start you'll get a good flow of PS fluid coming out. I will generally flush 2-3 quarts through the system that way. Trying to do it with the car started made a big mess
My LT1 specs regular PS fluid, and I generally use the Valvoline Synthetic stuff
thanks for your help im gonna flush it this afternoon
In step 4 I probably should add that you turn the wheels without the engine running. You'll need the key in to unlock the steering wheel too.
10 years isn't a bad life on a PS pump that wasn't maintained.
ATF has a real additive package, temp requirements, pumping requirements, antifoam requirements........... Certain special OE PS fluids also have special additive packages for more detailed performance requirements. Makes you want to think that PSF is a joke fluid. PSF doesn't have a battery of specs to meet like the ATFs.
If you require ATF or special PSF in your PS system, definitely USE it or equivalent.
You should also install a PS filter. Worn out pumps leave lots of wear behind which will beat on the new pump and your rack. Magnefine would be an easy to splice in solution.
ATF has a real additive package, temp requirements, pumping requirements, antifoam requirements........... Certain special OE PS fluids also have special additive packages for more detailed performance requirements. Makes you want to think that PSF is a joke fluid. PSF doesn't have a battery of specs to meet like the ATFs.
If you require ATF or special PSF in your PS system, definitely USE it or equivalent.
You should also install a PS filter. Worn out pumps leave lots of wear behind which will beat on the new pump and your rack. Magnefine would be an easy to splice in solution.
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