Why I Switched to 0W8

If you've ever poured Seafoam, Marvel Mystery Oil, ATF, diesel, or kerosene in your oil, you can't say anything about low viscosity. lol
 
What's 3-1 motor oil?
I believe he means...

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dont blow your wallet trying to save a couple bucks per oci in fuel savings. 0w-8 is so expensive id much much rather buy the cheapest lower vis oil which would probably be supertech 0w-16 (if available) or 0w-20 and the cheapest 99% filtration at 20um filter which'll be the tough guard.

0w-8 is so expensive you'd have to sludge it out to make enough money back to equal the value of a cheap 0w-16 in the calculation of oil cost, oci, and mpg.
 
If you've ever poured Seafoam, Marvel Mystery Oil, ATF, diesel, or kerosene in your oil, you can't say anything about low viscosity. lol
Do people on here fill their sumps with just one of those low viscosity fluids and not just a quart to go along with their oil? those barely reduce the overall viscosity by much if its just a quart for a short period.
 
So how much more expensive is this 0W-8 oil? If it cost more (and harder to get) than some more main stream 0W-16 of 0W-20 oils at say Walmart, but saves only 0.7% fuel mileage then that is another factor to add to the "savings" equation. If the 0W-8 causes more oil consumption and a quart or two needs to be added between OCIs, then that's another cost factor. So in the end, he might not actually be saving any money by using 0W-8.
 
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If we aren't going to test and experiment within the world of tribology, just get the cheapest OEM recommended grade from the shelf at Walmart, then why does this forum exist? If someone's mindset is to use what the manual says to a T with no deviation, then why are they here?

It's like people going to a 5-star restaurant and arguing with other guests about how they can get full just the same on mcnuggets.
 
If we aren't going to test and experiment within the world of tribology, just get the cheapest OEM recommended grade from the shelf at Walmart, then why does this forum exist? If someone's mindset is to use what the manual says to a T with no deviation, then why are they here?
How are "we" testing and performing experiments? No one here has that kind of tool set, at least not very many.
 
--Past UOAs provide data points indicating non-severe service.
--Recent new circumstances are even less severe.
--Delivery driver subcontractor with very consistent conditions.
--Average 80k mi/yr. 225 mi/dy. 358 dys/yr.
--Mildest of climates working, living in SF Bay Area.
--Mostly flat roads.
--SFO <> OAK <> SJC.
-- Lighter loads now ~100# or less.
--Deadlines are becoming less time critical.
--Using basic hypermiling techniques.
--RPMs almost always 1500 to 2800.
--Hybrids designed to run on thinner motor oils.
--See YarisCross Hybrid/Spec'd for 0W8.
--YMMV.

Championship race teams are now qualifying on highest quality 0W8 motor oil.
They then find it unnecessary to rebuild engines prior to race day.
The bearings are unscathed.
Fly Erica Fly..
After 3 pages of chastisement,,, the Oil in a hybrid could work, Keep us informed.
 
How are "we" testing and performing experiments? No one here has that kind of tool set, at least not very many.
It OBVIOUSLY depends on which oil has the better packaging. I wish we had these things that showed an oil has passed a test, to ensure it meets minimum requirements. Maybe we could call those approvals. Just a thought. I might be on to something.
 
If we aren't going to test and experiment within the world of tribology, just get the cheapest OEM recommended grade from the shelf at Walmart, then why does this forum exist? If someone's mindset is to use what the manual says to a T with no deviation, then why are they here?

It's like people going to a 5-star restaurant and arguing with other guests about how they can get full just the same on mcnuggets.
How much difference is there with any of the oils for sale at any retailer respective of the price points? Unless the package say new and improved up to 20,000 miles.
 
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