It seems every 2 years or so I end up having to replace the cv axle because the boot fails and I do not notice it in time. WHY CAN'T THEY MAKE STURDIER BOOTS THAT DON'T FAIL AS EASILY!
Why Do CV Joint Boots Destroy Themselves!!!
- Thread starter parimento1
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Because then you wouldn't have to buy new ones every 2 years... duhh
See what happening is a kid from jiffy lube is over tightening your oil pan which is making your engine "not feel good" sort of like when you put some cheap oil in it that contains too much iron...in its revenge the engine is taking out its anger on the cv axle making the boots rip prematurely...id just add some MMO, engine restore and get rid of that fram filter. Best of luck on your cv axle goals in 2011!
LOL! Dunno what kind of operating conditions you are facing in NYC, but here in PNW, factory neoprene CV boots typically lasts 8~12 yrs, shortest being those OE on Nissans, but still get approx. 6 yrs out of them most of the time.
I usually repack them before they crack (stock OE shafts and joints are mostly NTN, so I know they are good (and would rather keep the OE joints than buying an aftermarket/generic sino made ones).
I usually repack them before they crack (stock OE shafts and joints are mostly NTN, so I know they are good (and would rather keep the OE joints than buying an aftermarket/generic sino made ones).
I don't know but I've seem to get excellent service with CV boots. My Daughter's 98 Contour just had its first one done. 99 Ford Taurus still has the original ones @ 160k miles. 00 and 02 Chevy silverado still have originals. 2004 GMC same. Same with 05 Toyota Corolla 209k.
Interesting that you have those issues. My Sister in law's 04 Sentra has about 120k and she still has the originals. And she lives down the road in Philly with no garage.
Bill
Interesting that you have those issues. My Sister in law's 04 Sentra has about 120k and she still has the originals. And she lives down the road in Philly with no garage.
Bill
I'm going by the shop this coming Monday:
Replace both reman half-axles/CVs that had boots fail 1 year after installation. Of course, I have to pay the labor again, even though the parts will be warrantied.
Replace both reman half-axles/CVs that had boots fail 1 year after installation. Of course, I have to pay the labor again, even though the parts will be warrantied.
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Actually I've found it to be a pretty durable system. bad luck? I've found the factory parts to be nice, some of the rebuilt systems... less so.
What makes it really lame is that you don't know if the reman CVs lasting quality are if the boots get shot and ruin them without a fair chance to prove their worth. The boots are lame with these reman parts!
I do my own maintenance and rarely is anyone under my car. I have never had a torn boot, and i keep my cars well over ten years. Seems that those who have shops do their brakes, maintenance have more trouble with torn boots. A quick jab with a screwdriver and then go get the customer to show him the leaking boot.
Tell me about it... The olds just tore one a couple of weeks ago... so tried one of these quick boots, that made it worse!.. now i have NO boot at all as the cheap thing got rapped around the axle while going 60+ within the first mile of installing.. so a whole new CV is now on order.. it'll be here tues.. But.. i drove OVER 2000 miles with no boot at all, in a couple of rain storms, dirt, mud, and its just starting to click yesterday... the CV was not even bad when the boot tore.. but because of the crank right at the flex seem, then me cutting it off to install the quick boot, thats what is going to take out the CV.. what a waste of time and $$$!
Boots on the 4 Runner lasted 215,000 miles and 20 years.
Re-packed and re-booted the axles with factory boots...though I could have gotten cheap axles for not much more...
In case you're not familiar with the IFS with the ADD system, there are no locking hubs, the ADD is at the diff, so the axles are always rotating...no different than a FWD though clearly a bit more robust from everyone's experience...
Re-packed and re-booted the axles with factory boots...though I could have gotten cheap axles for not much more...
In case you're not familiar with the IFS with the ADD system, there are no locking hubs, the ADD is at the diff, so the axles are always rotating...no different than a FWD though clearly a bit more robust from everyone's experience...
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The Jetta had its first boot tear a few weeks ago. Let it ride till it makes noise then change.
Originally Posted By: parimento1
It seems every 2 years or so I end up having to replace the cv axle because the boot fails and I do not notice it in time. WHY CAN'T THEY MAKE STURDIER BOOTS THAT DON'T FAIL AS EASILY!
Are you buying cheapo Chinesium FLAPS axles or quality OEM ones? The former often cause many problems with boot or joint longevity.
Originally Posted By: ARB1977
The Jetta had its first boot tear a few weeks ago. Let it ride till it makes noise then change.
Why would you let it destroy the excellent OEM joints instead of just regreasing & rebooting? Very, very few aftermarket supplier make halfway decent CV joints for VWs.
It seems every 2 years or so I end up having to replace the cv axle because the boot fails and I do not notice it in time. WHY CAN'T THEY MAKE STURDIER BOOTS THAT DON'T FAIL AS EASILY!
Are you buying cheapo Chinesium FLAPS axles or quality OEM ones? The former often cause many problems with boot or joint longevity.
Originally Posted By: ARB1977
The Jetta had its first boot tear a few weeks ago. Let it ride till it makes noise then change.
Why would you let it destroy the excellent OEM joints instead of just regreasing & rebooting? Very, very few aftermarket supplier make halfway decent CV joints for VWs.
JHZR2
Staff member
MB boots are good for 200-250k miles and 25-30years. The axles will last longer if the boots are replaced.
Key is to not grind into the case hardening when redoing them. The cheap repairs will, even if there wasn't grit/dry operations/etc.
Buy cheap Chinese rebuilds (or new) from the AZ/AAP, and 2 years is what you'll get...
Key is to not grind into the case hardening when redoing them. The cheap repairs will, even if there wasn't grit/dry operations/etc.
Buy cheap Chinese rebuilds (or new) from the AZ/AAP, and 2 years is what you'll get...
JHZR2
Staff member
Originally Posted By: GMBoy
Ozone destroys the rubber boots, lets dirt in and then destroys the half shafts. I spray protectant on them when I remember while doing the oil changes. Never had one tear yet.
What protectant?
Ozone destroys the rubber boots, lets dirt in and then destroys the half shafts. I spray protectant on them when I remember while doing the oil changes. Never had one tear yet.
What protectant?
Silicon spray of some sort?
BTW, my mechanic claims to use OEM reman CVs, making it sound like it was the original Honda part though reman. Is there a short list of reputable reman axle companies? Here is a list for my car for example:
http://www.rockauto.com/catalog/x,carcode,1168613,parttype,2288
AUP
EMPI
CARDONE SELECT
A-1 CARDONE
BTW, my mechanic claims to use OEM reman CVs, making it sound like it was the original Honda part though reman. Is there a short list of reputable reman axle companies? Here is a list for my car for example:
http://www.rockauto.com/catalog/x,carcode,1168613,parttype,2288
AUP
EMPI
CARDONE SELECT
A-1 CARDONE
Had one go on my 87 Cutlass Ciera in 1997. Can't really complain too much about a rubber/neoprene part that lasted for 10 years/100k mi before needing replacement.
The CV joint started whistling when the boot tore and the grease leaked out. The boot was replaced with no need to replace the CV joint.
As for ARB's comment of letting it go until the CV joint is destroyed and needs replacing - I'll echo scurvy's reply. Why would you ever do this? The OEM joints are much higher quality than the replacements and its much cheaper to toss on a new boot than to replace the joint.
The CV joint started whistling when the boot tore and the grease leaked out. The boot was replaced with no need to replace the CV joint.
As for ARB's comment of letting it go until the CV joint is destroyed and needs replacing - I'll echo scurvy's reply. Why would you ever do this? The OEM joints are much higher quality than the replacements and its much cheaper to toss on a new boot than to replace the joint.
^I agree. In my situation, the boot on the passenger side nearest the tire was collapsed(no signs of grease) while the other side at the tire/wheel DID look like someone stabbed it(grease leaking out of small puncture)...my gut tells me someone sabotaged the 2nd one after noticing the collapsed 1st boot. Instead of alerting me, they could have just ruined the other hoping I'd return to them for more work. Hopefully, that's the worst case scenario.
Originally Posted By: parimento1
It seems every 2 years or so I end up having to replace the cv axle because the boot fails and I do not notice it in time. WHY CAN'T THEY MAKE STURDIER BOOTS THAT DON'T FAIL AS EASILY!
If the boots are failing that fast, something is wrong somewhere. Either the boots are cheap or you are tearing them during install.
It seems every 2 years or so I end up having to replace the cv axle because the boot fails and I do not notice it in time. WHY CAN'T THEY MAKE STURDIER BOOTS THAT DON'T FAIL AS EASILY!
If the boots are failing that fast, something is wrong somewhere. Either the boots are cheap or you are tearing them during install.
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