Who Is Running Amsoil Series 3000 5W30?

[JohnBrowning]

Ziggyrama, You have 5000 total miles on the vechile it is kind of too late now to try to re-break it in! To be honest I think your 1000 miles OEM break in should be enough. I do not think going back to conventional oil at this point with 5000 miles on the clock is going to do anything for you! You might try S3K 5W30 or their 5W40 and see if this helps!

You could always give it a try but would be wasteing the price of the Amsoil oil! So many oils are now group II,II+,III with some ester added in etc...

P.S. You can also try driveing it harder for a couple of months! Down shifting a bit more etc...

 

[puggiesv8]

one of the guys at work is a college educated, very smart! can figure out almost any problem! BUT!I will tell him that I used his work truck and had to put three quarts of oil in it! his answer is IT ISNT DUE FOR AN OIL CHANGE YET! The most expensive truck and the most used! Three of my old work trucks are still being driven!

 

[puggiesv8]

Sorry guys! wrong topic!let me get another beer and try again!

 

[TooSlick]

Ziggi,

The engine will still eventually break in if you continue to use Amsoil, it will just take that much longer and you'll burn some oil in the process.

I didn't mean to alarm you that much ....

Tooslick

 

[Mike_dup1]

This is from Asmoil FAQ's

quote:

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Break In Period

Q. I heard that new cars require a break in period with petroleum before you switch them to synthetic. How long should this break in period be? I read 500 miles on one website and someone else told me three thousand miles.

A. Our stance is that you can change to AMSOIL at any time. (Click Here for Official Policy) AMSOIL will NOT prevent your car from breaking in properly. The only reason we recommend running on your factory oil for a while is just to filter out any metallic particles associated with a new engine. Whether it be 500 or 3000 miles is customer preference. The 500 mile recommendation is very general in scope.

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quote:

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AMSOIL and Break In on New and Rebuilt Engines

Regarding the use of AMSOIL Synthetic Motor Oils in brand new or rebuilt engines, it is recommended, however not mandatory, that the motor be initially operated with petroleum oil up to its first normal drain interval. The advantages of doing this are as follows.

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New engines or engine components generate high wear metals to begin with and generally contain debris from machining and assembly. It is more beneficial to allow these wear metals to collect in an inexpensive motor oil than to circulate throughout the crankcase for extended periods in a synthetic motor oil. By operating the vehicle to its first drain interval with a petroleum oil, these wear metals and manufacturing debris collect in the oil and are then flushed out of the crankcase when drained. This allows for a much cleaner operating environment for the synthetic lubricant.
*

Within the first miles of operation, if there are any defects in the assembly or workmanship of the engine components, they may be corrected before installing the more expensive synthetic motor oil. Occasionally, rebuilt engines may have re-machined components or materials which can sometimes be mismatched. These problems will develop in a fairly short period of time. If excessive oil consumption, leaks, or any other problem is noted, this should be corrected prior to changing to AMSOIL Synthetic Oil.

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[JohnBrowning]

My uncle had a Yenko Vette with a 427 if I remenber right. When he rebuilt the engine after run in he put Mobil-1 in it. He used M1 products in all of his equipment. 7 out og the 8 cylinders were broke-in buy 3000 miles one cylinder took something insane like 18,000 miles. He was checking compression every 1000 miles as his break-in guide.

Now this was a rebuild and I heard this from him years latter so I was not their to witness it but he is a preety reliable! I usualy do not toss this one out seeing how it was a rebuild of a HP engine but figured I would include it.

This is the first car I ever drove on a paved road. It was the first car I drove past 120MPH as well. I was in 6th grade I think. I got it up to 55 on a secondary highway and my uncle said to me "open here up a bit" I took it up to 75MPH he said "floor this b**ch" I floored it the one tire spun then the rear axle locked up both tire spun for a second and we were gone!!!!!!!! I think I had it at 140MPH and my uncle was yelling that I could slow down now! I was hooked on speed from that day on!! I was running out of raod real quickly.

This same uncle owned a Hemi Cuda a couple of 426 hemi engines, a duster with a 340 TA enigne, a couple of Vettes and a bunch of other old detroit iron.

[ April 07, 2005, 10:31 AM: Message edited by: JohnBrowning ]

 

[j m z]

So, with the new gasoline car we better use semi-synthetic engine oil until 10K km..? How about the viscosity..? Is it ok if we used 40wt oil..?

 

[TooSlick]

Mike,

Hey,I know what the party line is - heck I've been a registered dealer for 25 years. What I'm recommending is honestly the best way to go with a new engine and it's based on years of actual experience and trial and error.

Run a new gas engine for 5000-6000 miles before using Amsoil for the first time and your oil consumption will be non-existant. Run a 15w-40 petroleum oil for 10,000-12,000 miles in a diesel pickup and your oil consumption will also be extremely low when you switch to Amsoil.

Remember... the definition of insanity is to keep repeating the same behavior and expecting a different result...

Ted

 

[TooSlick]

Ziggi,

I like the Amsoil 5w-40 European formula instead of their 10w-40 for all these turbo applications. It's actually the more shear stable of the two oils and well worth the extra fifty cents a quart ....

TS

 

[Ziggyrama]

TooSlick, I just went to Amsoil's site and read the 5W-40 EU oil writeup. The stuff looks great and seems to be more suited for extended drains.
As an update, I have checked my oil level today and things are looking alright. It's been about 700 miles since I refilled my oil and it doesn't look like I lost anything. The level is right at the full mark, the as the day I refilled it and the car has been running excpetionally well. I have been riding it harder the last couple of weeks so maybe the car finally found that sweet spot. I will continue to monitor the consumption.

 

[TooSlick]

Ziggi,

I am of coursed totally biased, but I think it's the best 5w-40, ACEA A3/B4 rated oil in North America, followed closely by the more expensive, RL 5w-40.

TS

 

[buster]

quote:

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I am of coursed totally biased, but I think it's the best 5w-40, ACEA A3/B4 rated oil in North America, followed closely by the more expensive, RL 5w-40.

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I'd have to agree, I think the Amsoil 5w-40 is an excellent oil. I like the add pack and I like what Molekule said about it.

RL's though is probably the best in terms of shear stability. I was even thinking of running this in the Honda at one point. If I lived anywhere but NA, I'd most likely be using a 40wt anyway.

 

[Santo Fontana]

Ziggy,

I changed my wrx over to m1 at 1,000 miles. (maybe earlier, I cant remember but I definitely changed it at 1000, 2000, and 3000 with m1 10w30) Ive always had some consumption averaging about 1/2 quart/2500 miles, and I was always switching between other synth oils. Ive realized that the main factor in consumption for my motor is switching oil brands. Every time I switch itll use 1 quart in 2-3k. After using my current oil for 4 5k changes Im using less than half a quart in 5k. Im at 74k now.

Also the oil in your intake is probably from the pcv system like you said. Its pretty common to have a little. I wouldnt worry about either of those things.

[ April 11, 2005, 12:01 AM: Message edited by: Santo Fontana ]

 

[Ziggyrama]

Guys, thanks for all of the replies. I just installed silicone intercooler hoses over the weekend, replacing stock plastic ones. It will smooth out the air flow and be much more high temp durable. Anyways, while doing the install, I had a chance to peek inside and intercooler and the stock hoses that connect to the turbo. Looks like I had a thin oily film on the inside of the hoses. My guess is that it's there from the initial break-in blowby. The interesting thing is that the intercooler is whistle clean. Only the hoses have the film. Plastic is a pourous substance so maybe it is more prone to capturing oil particles in the air? In the end, I will stick with current oil and run it out for 10K until I will make a switch to 10W-40. Thanks for all the info!

 

[msparks]

quote:

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Originally posted by buster:
I did read at one time that Amatuzio uses this oil in his own car. For whatever thats worth.

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That's straight from the Horses mouth.

I was on a teleconference and someone asked him what he ran. He said Series 3000 5w30.

This was a couple of years ago (maybe 2-3) and he was driving a suburban.

 

[JC807]

I'm about to run this in my new shape Isuzu Dmax. Although the truck is 2012/13, it has no DPF and recommends mostly CH4 and some CI4+ oils, but all require JASO DH1.