Who has changed a fuel filter to fix a problem, successfully

Many GM vehicles in the '80's and '90's. Maintenance schedule was 30k miles on those fuel filters and nobody changed them.
Filter was small, Fords had a bigger filter that went longer mileage wise but still they would plug over time.
 
To zzyzzx's point: Rail mounted fuel filters are always a tummy turner as the couplers frequently don't cooperate, crusty old fuel lines must be disturbed and you never know how the couplers will reseal until you do the job.

My money's on "Next time" being the battle cry.
Blokes here who report charitable car maintenance never mention changing fuel filters. I bet they're commonly, semi-consciously overlooked.
 
I changed many Q-Jet in-carb mini filters. They made slim wrenches to hold the lock nut.
If your vehicle cut out under load, this was the 1st thing to check.
 
My Mom had a 2003 Chevy Venture van that would throw codes (dont recall) if the filter wasnt replaced every year or so. She didnt use cheap fuel but for some reason that van would do that. Fortunately the engineers that designed that particular filter and location didnt have the typical rectal/cranial inversion problems. Each end had a push fitting with a nylon clip and all you needed other than a rag was a 10mm socket to remove the mounting nut. Easiest one I have ever done.
 
Inline fuel filters on gas powered vehicles have gone the way of the dodo bird long ago; I can't think of a single vehicle that's currently in production that comes with one. The motive behind it was, of course, cost cutting.

If you look at the state of some of the injectors coming off of these vehicles, an inline fuel filter would definitely help. The sock filter, or strainer, on fuel pumps don't do much other than prevent larger particles from being sucked into the fuel pump.

With that being said, much like air filters that have been neglected, inline fuel filters that have been neglected and clogged up will impact fuel pressure and cause premature wear, and possibly even failure, of the fuel pump.
Great summary! I wish fuel filters were spin ons with a higher filtration rate...
 
Good question. All I ever see is people saying how dirty they are when they dump them out.

I'd be super interested to see how it looks with live data/measured data when you've got a filter that's ready to be changed.
Every filter I've changed has had zero crap come out when dumped, even when I've blown it out wish shop air! Probably 15? in my lifetime?
 
Every filter I've changed has had zero crap come out when dumped, even when I've blown it out wish shop air! Probably 15? in my lifetime?

The filter in my 1984 Cavalier had a lot of crap in it when I dumped it out. Rust from the 38 year old gas tank. Replaced the tank with a new one.
 
1986 Jeep CJ-7
Gas tank was rusty. I could drive 10-20 miles and then the engine would start to miss. Would barely get to work before it had issues. Jump in after work and it would run fine until almost home, then start to stutter.

Someone suggested the fuel filter, so I changed it. Jeep ran like a top after that. I guess the rust floaties would gradually clog the paper while running, then settle out while it sat all day.
Yep! I have a 78 CJ7 and the filter is so simple and right on top - I change it on a regular basis since they only run like $4 on rockauto.
 
My older Ford pickup, (1991), has dual tanks, and a frame rail mounted in line fuel filter. And it's a fairly large one. It's easy to change, so I do it quite often.

I generally make it part of the job when I change out spark plugs, wires, rotor and cap, and air filter. I've never waited until it generated a problem.

The only issue is, the new filters no longer come with the 2 plastic press in c-clamps you most always break removing the old one. But all the chain auto parts stores stock them. So I always remember to buy a couple extras along with the new filter.

After installation the engine starts a bit hard, than usually stumbles and quits until the new filter becomes filled and pressurized. I can get around that by turning the key from "LOCK" to "ON" 2 or 3 times before starting.

That allows the fuel pump to prime it enough to where it starts quickly, and keeps running. I should add I've never had one leak. They seal amazingly well with those little plastic c-clamps.
I've used the dealer before to replace the filter when I couldn't bc of a bad injury. They literally told me that the clips are not available anymore and that I had to find them before they could perform the service... Five mins later Advance told me they had a set available right on the shelf.

I cannot understand why the parts guy didn't do the same, especially with how good he is! I get 5% over cost or Rock Auto price matching. Many times Rock Autos pricing is lower than their cost! Whenever he price matches for me, he spins the monitor around to show me their cost price!
 
can't type it fixed anything, but it was on the list as issues like tired relay(s), shorting pump(s) & blown capacitor(s) were tracked down..........
feels better when sending it down the road for another 172k-315k miles....

there was an old Chevy truck, but the sock in the saddle tank was overcome with sand/dirt/????. does that count?
I know that most of the troubleshooting steps start with a filter change as the first thing..
 
I have to figure that the type of person who visits this website probably proactively changes their fuel filter.
You are correct sir!
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I did in my 2000 Camry last year. It was having trouble starting, sometimes it wouldn’t start at all. Replaced the fuel filter and it was immediately perfect. I had changed it 5 years/45k miles before that too.
 
I had a 1999 LeSabre that started losing power on anything past 1/2 throttle. This was after all the MAF sensor problems it had, after a couple trips to my mech he finally showed me hot to clean the MAF. As soon as I explained it had no get up and go anything past 1/2 throttle he immediately said fuel filter. After he changed it I realized it had been like that for a lot longer than I thought, almost like driving a different car.
 
Blowing out a fuel filter might not produce any caught material as the material will be trapped.
How many people can open a fuel filter effectively? By effectively I mean without contaminating the element with bits.
And who wants to get smelly gasoline all over everything?

I wonder if there are states or regions which have proportionally more old metal storage tanks.
 
When I was young and broke, I always purchased high mileage used vehicles. While doing it's initial maintenance service I always changed the filter which I always assumed were the factory.

I've definitely seen diesel equipment have issues solved with a new filter (air filters too). Again, I wish autos came with that spin on filter assembly.. With that type of filter design it, the change would be a breeze. Easier access with a higher filtration rate. I know I would change my filter more often and hopefully shops would too.
 
At about 260k miles, still on its original in-line filter, my '81 Mazda lost power on long uphills. I replaced it than, and the problem never returned in the following 340k .

I remember my parents' 1950s and early '60s (from before in-line fuel filters were common) cars intermittently having trouble with dirt fouling the carburetors.
 
I had a 1989 Cadillac Coupe Deville that ran and drove perfectly fine as far as I could tell in normal driving, but if you floored it, it would rev up but not shift into the next gear until you started to release the throttle. Fuel filter replacement solved the problem immediately.
 
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