Who has a quality hydraulic filter?

[s.t.a.r.]

Which manufacture has a quality hydraulic filter? Should I stay with a 10 micron filter or something below that? Also, does anyone have a hydraulic filter that can remove water from your fluid

Thanks, Tony

 

[Bill Plock]

Try Donaldson Filters

 

[Filter guy]

quote:

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Originally posted by s.t.a.r.:
Which manufacture has a quality hydraulic filter? Should I stay with a 10 micron filter or something below that? Also, does anyone have a hydraulic filter that can remove water from your fluid

Thanks, Tony

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What are you using now? Brand and part number?

Usually spin-on hydraulic filters that also remove water come in two micron ratings..25 or 10. There are short and long versions and come in a few different thread sizes.

There are 1,3,6 micron spin-on elements that are available but do not have water removal capabilties.


What are you trying to accomplish? What is the application?

 

[Ken2]

Baldwin has a very comprehensive line, as does WIX.

Getting water out of the oil is tough. A complete coalescer unit is the right way to do it, and for a small system just dumping the oil is cheaper. Settling is one way. I've tried using a Racor diesel fuel filter with warm oil, very slow feed rate, and either the normal 10 micron elements or the winter 25 micron elements. If everything was just right, especially very warm oil, it did fair.

Good hydraulic oil is made for the water to settle out. If you're using ATF, that's made to emulsify water. Dump it.

Ken

 

[Shannow]

Pall are good, expensive, and their pressure marketting sux.

On the other hand the "cheapisbest" filters that our purchasing people keep getting have staples joining the gap in the pleats, that you can see clean through the media.

 

[Filter guy]

There are two basic ways of removing water.

Racor..and diesel fuel water seperators in general... treat the filter media with a chemical which sheens the water off. If is a barrier. However, any alcohol in the fuel may disperse the water into smaller particle sizes and allow the water to pass the fuel water seperator. Alcohol is used to "dry" fuel. You can buy it at any auto parts store. This is why most fuel water seperators have a drian cock on the botom, to drain off the water the fuel water seperator seperates out. One should drain it daily until you get a handle on how much water problem you have. If you don't drain it, then you reduce flow through the element as the water helps to restrict the flow of the fuel. ( or whatever your fluid your filtering).

The other way to stop water is primarily used in hydraulics ( and this is how the Palls work) is to absorb the water out of hydraulic fluid. The media has an absorbant which swells as it absorbs water. Your pressure guage will tell you when to change the filter.

 

[s.t.a.r.]

Thank you fellas for the help so far. The system has a 9 gallon capacity and is on a Vermeer woodchipper. I just changed the hydraulic fluid yesterday and I couldn't tell if it was hydraulic fluid or a butterscotch milkshake! I'm guessing that it had a high amount of wate...with only 200 hours on it. The guy I bought it from said that very early on the machine developed a problem that caused the hyd. fluid to boil...is that possible? He also said that the Vermeer fixed the problem but did not change the fluid which I thought was strange.
I'm flushing it out with Mobil 424 for now and then replacing that Mobil something 13...forgot the name.
I was just curious as to who if anyone made a inexpensive water removal system or do they have a filter that would accomplish this? From what I've read so far, doesn't seem so. I've read about a product called High Point, a hygroscopic(desacant filled) breather. I'm sure there are others, anyway this seems like a good place to start with the new fluid.

Thanks, Tony

 

[Shannow]

it will boil if it's got water in it.

 

[s.t.a.r.]

Are you saying that the emulsified mixture boils, or just the water within the oil boils?

Tony