Which Torque Wrench?
- Thread starter Merkava_4
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OVERKILL
$100 Site Donor 2021
Depends on the application. I'd probably default to the 3/8ths one if we are just speaking in general.
OK, say you're just torquing down 6mm bolts with 10mm hex heads, would you still go with 3/8" drive?
OVERKILL
$100 Site Donor 2021
Yeah, probably.
pick the one you have the most sockets for!
What is "lb.in"? inch pounds?
Originally Posted By: LeakySeals
What is "lb.in"? inch pounds?
yup inch pounds
I would go with 3/8 personally. So i don't have to keep switching from two sets of sockets.
What is "lb.in"? inch pounds?
yup inch pounds
I would go with 3/8 personally. So i don't have to keep switching from two sets of sockets.
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I'd go 1/4". There are places the smaller one will fit that the bigger one won't, but not vice versa! My intake manifold is a perfect example; there's one bolt only accessible with a 1/4" extension. Yeah, you could use an adapter, but then you're just adding to the measurement error of a metric which is imprecise to begin with. Besides,1/4" is more than adequate for 200 in lbs.
+1 in this torque range the 1/4" drive may be the more versatile tool.
At that low of torque, I'd use 1/4" drive.
JHZR2
Staff member
Originally Posted By: Merkava_4
OK, say you're just torquing down 6mm bolts with 10mm hex heads, would you still go with 3/8" drive?
I personally enjoy wrenching with 1/4" drive when I can, because it is just lighter, smaller and more flexible to use. It makes a difference on a long job, because it is just less to lug around.
Id go 1/4" myself.
OK, say you're just torquing down 6mm bolts with 10mm hex heads, would you still go with 3/8" drive?
I personally enjoy wrenching with 1/4" drive when I can, because it is just lighter, smaller and more flexible to use. It makes a difference on a long job, because it is just less to lug around.
Id go 1/4" myself.
Originally Posted By: SIXSPEED
I'd probably go with the 1/4" drive for this range. What do you intend to do with this?
Intake manifold bolts and transmission pan bolts. The Buick 3800 V6 takes 189 inch pounds
for the lower intake manifold and only 89 inch pounds for the plastic upper intake manifold.
The transmission pan bolts are only 132 inch pounds. I'm trying to think of a good reason to
go 3/8" drive, but can't come up with anything.
I'd probably go with the 1/4" drive for this range. What do you intend to do with this?
Intake manifold bolts and transmission pan bolts. The Buick 3800 V6 takes 189 inch pounds
for the lower intake manifold and only 89 inch pounds for the plastic upper intake manifold.
The transmission pan bolts are only 132 inch pounds. I'm trying to think of a good reason to
go 3/8" drive, but can't come up with anything.
At work I have a 250 lb. in. Techwrench with 1/4 inch drive and I like it. On occasion (spark plugs) I use an adapter to use a 3/8 drive.
Are these wrenches the same otherwise (length)?
I feel that a 250 lb. in. wrench is better since it will go up to 21 ft. lbs. to cover a few more applications and over lap your "middle" torque wrench (100 ft. lbs.)better.
Also, when I try to use a torque wrench on a soft gasket applications, I find it difficult to do. It seems like the gasket smashes down, then sort of releases a bit. In other words, you can torque it to 10 ft. lbs., then come back with the wrench still set at 10 and tighten it again. Be careful not to overtighten. I usually torque it to the spec. the first time, then if it leaks or seeps later on, I tighten each bolt and equal turn (1/8 to 1/4). Just my experience.
Are these wrenches the same otherwise (length)?
I feel that a 250 lb. in. wrench is better since it will go up to 21 ft. lbs. to cover a few more applications and over lap your "middle" torque wrench (100 ft. lbs.)better.
Also, when I try to use a torque wrench on a soft gasket applications, I find it difficult to do. It seems like the gasket smashes down, then sort of releases a bit. In other words, you can torque it to 10 ft. lbs., then come back with the wrench still set at 10 and tighten it again. Be careful not to overtighten. I usually torque it to the spec. the first time, then if it leaks or seeps later on, I tighten each bolt and equal turn (1/8 to 1/4). Just my experience.
Originally Posted By: doitmyself
Are these wrenches the same otherwise (length)?
Yes, they're both the same length at the same torque range. Different part numbers for 1/4" or 3/8" drive.
I found something else interesting, their competitor CDI, has that torque range only available in 3/8" drive:
Tool Source
Are these wrenches the same otherwise (length)?
Yes, they're both the same length at the same torque range. Different part numbers for 1/4" or 3/8" drive.
I found something else interesting, their competitor CDI, has that torque range only available in 3/8" drive:
Tool Source
I have the PI 1/4" for this 30-200 in-lb range. I don't regret that purchase one bit & would do the same again.
benjamming - are you sure you wouldn't rather have the same wrench in 3/8" drive?
It really doesn't matter with the two wrenches being the same length, you can use an adapter to accommodate either socket size you wish. I have a Craftsman 3/8" that goes up to 250 lb-in, which is longer than my 200 lb-in 1/4" HF wrench. I'll reach for the C-man over the HF for most low torque applications towards the upper end of the scale, mainly for the added leverage; for the lower end I'll choose the HF.
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Slight hijack but think it's appropriate - is there a easy ordering on the types of torque wrenches (beam, click, split beam, dial) from least to most accurate? Or does each have their place?
Originally Posted By: cadfaeltex
Slight hijack but think it's appropriate - is there a easy ordering on the types of torque wrenches (beam, click, split beam, dial) from least to most accurate? Or does each have their place?
Overall I think they are all about even with regards to accuracy. With the split beam and clickers, you don't have to be watching the needle against a scale while you're tightening the fastener like you do with a beam type. The advantage I see with the split beam is you don't need to dial them down to minimum setting after use, but they tend to be a little bulkier than their micrometer (clicker) counterparts.
Slight hijack but think it's appropriate - is there a easy ordering on the types of torque wrenches (beam, click, split beam, dial) from least to most accurate? Or does each have their place?
Overall I think they are all about even with regards to accuracy. With the split beam and clickers, you don't have to be watching the needle against a scale while you're tightening the fastener like you do with a beam type. The advantage I see with the split beam is you don't need to dial them down to minimum setting after use, but they tend to be a little bulkier than their micrometer (clicker) counterparts.
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