Which oil for 2022 wrx?

NOT buying a DI only engined vehicle is the preventative cure BUT since you got it i WOULD use a HPL top line oil or Redline or Motul, + depending on your location-heat where you live + drive a 10W or even 15W- 30 or 40 oil. i rarely move my 2001 TT 225Q actually about 300 hp + torque in the colder Pa weather but see MORE vacuum on my installed gauge with redlines 15w40-50 that i use. engine only has 60 thou but prolly loose + i top up as needed in summer months with Red 15-50 + consumption is minimal even thou i "air it out" at 30 lbs boost!!! i like to support the little guy + considering Redlines cost i could prolly buy a comparable or better HPL blended oil!! my 2001 slightly milder 275 TQ + 250 hp jetta another 1.8T went 200 thou without engine issues on REAL synthetic 10W30 in Pa weather + was my work-fun car averaging 30 mpgs after mods + running great when traded just because for my lo mile 2001 TT roadster my first rag top that i am still enjoying!! one thing is they both had small 4.25 qt sumps so real synthetic was warranted IMO. 10,000 changes while working + driving a thou more or less WEEKLY!!! jetta was great in snow with Quaife + 4 SNOW tires!! i tested a new 2001 wrx as well BUT VW build quality seemed better + it was 5G less, BUT easily put 5G's in the jetta that would surely outperform a stock wrx + NO rust even when traded 10 years later living + driving 200 thou in the NE Pa rust belt!! good luck with your rex's i still like them although i didnt buy one!
 
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NOT buying a DI only engined vehicle is the preventative cure BUT since you got it i WOULD use a HPL top line oil or Redline or Motul, + depending on your location-heat where you live + drive a 10W or even 15W- 30 or 40 oil. i rarely move my 2001 TT 225Q actually about 300 hp + torque in the colder Pa weather but see MORE vacuum on my installed gauge with redlines 15w40-50 that i use. engine only has 60 thou but prolly loose + i top up as needed in summer months with Red 15-50 + consumption is minimal even thou i "air it out" at 30 lbs boost!!! i like to support the little guy + considering Redlines cost i could prolly buy a comparable or better HPL blended oil!! my 2001 slightly milder 275 TQ + 250 hp jetta another 1.8T went 200 thou without engine issues on REAL synthetic 10W30 in Pa weather + was my work-fun car averaging 30 mpgs after mods + running great when traded just because for my lo mile 2001 TT roadster my first rag top that i am still enjoying!! one thing is they both had small 4.25 qt sumps so real synthetic was warranted IMO. 10,000 changes while working + driving a thou more or less WEEKLY!!! jetta was great in snow with Quaife + 4 SNOW tires!!
I'm not really looking to spend $80 on oil.
 
NOT buying a DI only engined vehicle is the preventative cure BUT since you got it i WOULD use a HPL top line oil or Redline or Motul, + depending on your location-heat where you live + drive a 10W or even 15W- 30 or 40 oil. i rarely move my 2001 TT 225Q actually about 300 hp + torque in the colder Pa weather but see MORE vacuum on my installed gauge with redlines 15w40-50 that i use. engine only has 60 thou but prolly loose + i top up as needed in summer months with Red 15-50 + consumption is minimal even thou i "air it out" at 30 lbs boost!!! i like to support the little guy + considering Redlines cost i could prolly buy a comparable or better HPL blended oil!! my 2001 slightly milder 275 TQ + 250 hp jetta another 1.8T went 200 thou without engine issues on REAL synthetic 10W30 in Pa weather + was my work-fun car averaging 30 mpgs after mods + running great when traded just because for my lo mile 2001 TT roadster my first rag top that i am still enjoying!! one thing is they both had small 4.25 qt sumps so real synthetic was warranted IMO. 10,000 changes while working + driving a thou more or less WEEKLY!!! jetta was great in snow with Quaife + 4 SNOW tires!! i tested a new 2001 wrx as well BUT VW build quality seemed better + it was 5G less, BUT easily put 5G's in the jetta that would surely outperform a stock wrx + NO rust even when traded 10 years later living + driving 200 thou in the NE Pa rust belt!! good luck with your rex's i still like them although i didnt buy one!


Crikey!!!!!
 
NOT buying a DI only engined vehicle is the preventative cure BUT since you got it i WOULD use a HPL top line oil or Redline or Motul, + depending on your location-heat where you live + drive a 10W or even 15W- 30 or 40 oil. i rarely move my 2001 TT 225Q actually about 300 hp + torque in the colder Pa weather but see MORE vacuum on my installed gauge with redlines 15w40-50 that i use. engine only has 60 thou but prolly loose + i top up as needed in summer months with Red 15-50 + consumption is minimal even thou i "air it out" at 30 lbs boost!!! i like to support the little guy + considering Redlines cost i could prolly buy a comparable or better HPL blended oil!! my 2001 slightly milder 275 TQ + 250 hp jetta another 1.8T went 200 thou without engine issues on REAL synthetic 10W30 in Pa weather + was my work-fun car averaging 30 mpgs after mods + running great when traded just because for my lo mile 2001 TT roadster my first rag top that i am still enjoying!! one thing is they both had small 4.25 qt sumps so real synthetic was warranted IMO. 10,000 changes while working + driving a thou more or less WEEKLY!!! jetta was great in snow with Quaife + 4 SNOW tires!! i tested a new 2001 wrx as well BUT VW build quality seemed better + it was 5G less, BUT easily put 5G's in the jetta that would surely outperform a stock wrx + NO rust even when traded 10 years later living + driving 200 thou in the NE Pa rust belt!! good luck with your rex's i still like them although i didnt buy one!
Jesus christ, your posts are hard to digest.
 
10W40 is the same as 5W40? Really? Do you know something the chemical engineers at the oil manufacturers don't seem to know? Would save a lot space on the shelves at the store if they sold one weight labeled 5&10W40 instead of two separate ones.
You never said the place that recommended 10w40 for your $30k engine was an oil manufacturer, you said it was an engine builder. And yes, at operating temps, like discussed thousands of times here, winter rating is irrelevant and the oil grade dictates the acceptable viscosity range.

It’s entirely possible for a 10w40 to be thinner than a 0w40 at operating temps. The only things that will likely be different based off the winter ratings are the extreme cold viscosity (higher as W rating increases) and the % of VIIs (lower as W rating increases).
 
Walmart doesn’t have M1 0w-40 in stock.

My options are:

Pennzoil Platinum 5w30 Euro L

M1 5w40

Castrol 5w40

Castrol 5w30 A3

Or of course a regular 5w30
PP Euro L 5w30 or the 2 5w40's is what I would run out of those options. The PP Euro L held up fine and did not use a drop in my kids Volvo C30 where Mobil1 and Castrol 5w30's did.
 
Idk. I know nothing about Subaru. I thought high SAPS = more carbon build up
I’m surprised that your original posts lists so many high SAPS oils if you’re concerned about carbon build-up.

From your choices, I’d probably go with the PP Euro L. But Subaru Japan actually allows high SAPS Euro 0w30 in the FA24DIT.

Since you mention upgraded turbo, what other mods do you have?
 
I’m surprised that your original posts lists so many high SAPS oils if you’re concerned about carbon build-up.

From your choices, I’d probably go with the PP Euro L. But Subaru Japan actually allows high SAPS Euro 0w30 in the FA24DIT.

Since you mention upgraded turbo, what other mods do you have?
I have no idea what other mods it has 🤷‍♂️
 
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