which non-synthetic oil to use with auto-rx?

[designer_7]

Hi. I ordered some Auto-RX in hopes of cleaning out my engine in a 1995 Toyota Previa S/C. The engine has 177K miles on it. For the 1st 140K miles, it had 3K-4K mile oil changes with conventional oil. I then switched to Mobil1 synthetic 5w-40 TSUV going on 7.5K mile oil change intervals. The engine still runs pretty good for a 11 yr old engine and doesn't consume any oil.

Anyway, i understand it is better to use non-synthetic oil with Auto-RX. I'm wondering which oil is recommended for my situation? I was thinking along the lines of Castrol GTX or Castrol GTX high mileage. I plan to go back to the M1 5w-40 TSUV after I'm done with 2 applications of Auto-RX.

Would appreciate any suggestions... thanks.

 

[Brogy]

Cheapest you can get. Havoline or supertech would be a good choice. During the rinse phase you can use pennzoil platinum if you want a better oil in there. Don't use the high mileage oil, the regular GTX sounds fine.

 

[Tempest]

On my first clean phase with Supertech dino. I figure it has the most "basic" add pack you can get.

 

[Stainless]

I used Pennzoil Platinum, because even though the oil would only be in the sump for 2k miles, I still didn't want to use cheap stuff. I have NO idea why most people on BITOG try so hard to use only the best of everything, because they want the car to last, but are FIRST to say, "use no name #@$%! dino with A-RX." I just don't get it.

Plus, PP was BOGO free at AA, so I bought a really good oil, for a really good price.

Now, you will have at least 5 different posts after this telling me that PP is synthetic, and I was using the WRONG kind. The funny thing about THAT is: Frank himself has said that PP is just fine to use as a rinse.

 

[Tempest]

Quote:

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I have NO idea why most people on BITOG try so hard to use only the best of everything, because they want the car to last, but are FIRST to say, "use no name #@$%! dino with A-RX." I just don't get it.

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Because with ARX, you are adding ~10oz. of metal cutting grade ester to the oil. That is some serious EP additive. And by definition, adding ARX to dino creates a blend, and it will only be in the engine for a short time anyway.

As for the rinse cycle, is to flush out the junk that the esters are holding onto from the clean cycle. So we know that a large portion of those esters are still in there, even after the 1st cycle.

 

[doitmyself]

I'm exercising my feeble memory here. Wasn't it recently posted that the new "anti-sludge" formulation of "regular" dino Castrol GTX was no longer recommended for the rinse phase. And, maybe the new Havoline "deposit control" is no longer good because of it's additives clashing with ARX?

 

[Ugly3]

Just use Wal*Mart Supertech Dino oil for the clean and rinse phases. Works like a charm!

 

[Frank]

I am in shock somebody really took advantage of saving more money while using Auto-Rx and had the good sense to use Supertech Dino.

If you just 'feel" you have to use synthetic in that engine go with one of th Group 111 oils eg. Pennsoil Platimum. You won't be sacrificing a thing.

 

[peterr]

Quote:

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I am in shock somebody really took advantage of saving more money while using Auto-Rx and had the good sense to use Supertech Dino.

If you just 'feel" you have to use synthetic in that engine go with one of th Group 111 oils eg. Pennsoil Platimum. You won't be sacrificing a thing.

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Frank

My practice has always been for Auto-RXing:

For a normally aspirated car: whatever Xw30 dino oil is onsale. I have used the Walmart oil, but when they had Pennzoil or Castrol or Quaker State on sale for the same price (or for $1.50 more but with a free oil filter) I got those.

But there are some uses where a group III or HDEO seem prudent. I have used these oils for Turbocharged cars, then going back to PAO after AutoRX rinse cycle. I paid maybe about $4 more per change vs Wally World Tech2000 (the Canadian branding) but for the turbo it is cheap peace of mind.

But yes, it is certainly true that for AutoRX and indeed for normal 3000 mile OCIs too, any API SM multigrade oil sold today is probably pretty good