Which M1 for 1999 4.3?

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Stewart Fan, If you have been pleased with the dino 10W30, and you have a healthy engine, you should have NO concerns with M1 10W30, especially given Everett's climate.
 

KW

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quote:
Originally posted by Stewart Fan: My wifes S-10 Blazer has the 4.3,and I currently use 10-30 Chevron Supreme in it year round. At the next change (70K), I'm going to switch to M1. Should I stick with the 10-30,or go to the 5-30 or maybe even 0-30? I'll use the same weight year round because the temps in W. Wa. are pretty mild. If I use 10-30,I'll only have to keep one weight on hand because thats what I use in my truck. Thanks.
The O, 5, and 10w are sort of irrelevant. They are all 30 weight oils when the motor is up to temp. I would think any of them would be a good choice. Personally I would go with the 0 or 5W.
 
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Not necessarily, the 10w-30 is the most shear stable of the group and is better for consumption. No VII's are used in this viscosity. It's also one of the best oils out there. I'm with Patman, 0w-30 M1 is not too good from what I've seen. Just a total guess, but I don't think ExxonMobil uses or makes quality VII's. [I dont know] [ September 27, 2003, 08:28 PM: Message edited by: buster ]
 
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My 02 4.3 silverado just turned over 40k and each time I change oil so far, at @6kmiles the M1 5W30 is up to 40wt at 100F. Doesn't seem like "shear stability" is a factor with this engine.
 
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My wifes S-10 Blazer has the 4.3,and I currently use 10-30 Chevron Supreme in it year round. At the next change (70K), I'm going to switch to M1. Should I stick with the 10-30,or go to the 5-30 or maybe even 0-30? I'll use the same weight year round because the temps in W. Wa. are pretty mild. If I use 10-30,I'll only have to keep one weight on hand because thats what I use in my truck. Thanks.
 

Patman

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If your area doesn't get down below 20F or so, then stick with the 10w30 all year round and you should be fine. Otherwise go with the 5w30. 0w30 Mobil 1 isn't all that impressive, IMO.
 

Al

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I've used the 10W-30 Mobil 1 in all year 'round in Pa. Temps in winter frequently get below 0F. I'm not saying that 10W-30 was the best choice. I owned (or it owned me [Smile] ) a 2.3 L Ford . It had a plugged oil screen and used a filter with no anti-drainback valve. The oil light didn't go out for maybe half a minute in winter with dino oils in. This went on all winter. The filters with the lack of adb valves were used for 5 years. This truck made thousands of starts with serious rattling of bearings. 145,000 miles later the thing is still on the road. I think that perhaps the dangers of starting with less than perfect conditions bay be overblown. Remember there is zero load on the engine at this time. I'm not advocating this practice-justcommenting on it. [Smile]
 
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Dickwells, Are you getting oxidation/nitration or total solids data as part of your oil analysis? I'd like to see some of your analysis results and see if I can figure out what mechanism is causing the thickening. It has to be engine related, i've never seen Mobil 1 thicken up significantly in only 6000 miles unless there was a major coolant leak. Ted
 
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