1) Cold start, no warm up and accelerate to 60mph.
Or
2) Decel from 60mph clutch in, key off immediately.
Or
2) Decel from 60mph clutch in, key off immediately.
Which is worse for your engine
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Ummm... well obviously #2 since the engine is warm and you turn it OFF while rolling @ 60mph which = engine parts not moving so there's no wear going on.
#1 isn't that bad either. It depends HOW you accelerate. You can do so very gently or you can floor it!
#1 isn't that bad either. It depends HOW you accelerate. You can do so very gently or you can floor it!
Originally Posted By: Artem
#1 isn't that bad either. It depends HOW you accelerate. You can do so very gently or you can floor it!
Agreed.
Kind of a strange question comparing the two situations...
#1 isn't that bad either. It depends HOW you accelerate. You can do so very gently or you can floor it!
Agreed.
Kind of a strange question comparing the two situations...
Regarding #1: If you mean get on the highway with less than 1 min warmup = not good. Many ep and aw agents dont work when "cold", though that pistion is gonna get hot quick but the cyl will be cold fror 10 mins. If you have a roller cam then the VT wear isnt an issue and pressure lubed bearing wear should be minimal. If you have a chain timing system you can really aerate the oil cold. I no longer take the highway home from work in the winter as my car will be running for less than three mins and then i have to accelerate to 70 mh up a steep on ramp onto the Interstate. I take backroads now at 35mph and 2200 rpm light throttle
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#2 is not good for valves or piston coking. Neither practice is good. But if you are just LT cruising at 60 - the cyl temp wont be crazy. I always let my car idle a min before i shut it down.
Originally Posted By: Quattro Pete
Kind of a strange question comparing the two situations...
Well I am doing nearly both. I start the engine, get settled and I'm off. From the house I have 3 miles at 45mph then 60mph for the next 25 miles. I have been slowing down to 45mph for a few 1000 feet proir to pulling into the parking lot and turning the engine off. I then ride a van pool the rest of the way to work.
When I get back to the vehicle I start the engine get settled and I'm off except the speed limit is 55 and keeping with traffic means doing roughly the speed limit. I do have 3 miles at 45mph prior to pulling into my drive.
I am thinking the lack of a sufficient cool down maybe detrimental in the long run.
Kind of a strange question comparing the two situations...
Well I am doing nearly both. I start the engine, get settled and I'm off. From the house I have 3 miles at 45mph then 60mph for the next 25 miles. I have been slowing down to 45mph for a few 1000 feet proir to pulling into the parking lot and turning the engine off. I then ride a van pool the rest of the way to work.
When I get back to the vehicle I start the engine get settled and I'm off except the speed limit is 55 and keeping with traffic means doing roughly the speed limit. I do have 3 miles at 45mph prior to pulling into my drive.
I am thinking the lack of a sufficient cool down maybe detrimental in the long run.
I bet the lack or warmth is a bigger prob for you.
Originally Posted By: TaterandNoodles
Originally Posted By: Quattro Pete
Kind of a strange question comparing the two situations...
Well I am doing nearly both. I start the engine, get settled and I'm off. From the house I have 3 miles at 45mph then 60mph for the next 25 miles. I have been slowing down to 45mph for a few 1000 feet proir to pulling into the parking lot and turning the engine off. I then ride a van pool the rest of the way to work.
When I get back to the vehicle I start the engine get settled and I'm off except the speed limit is 55 and keeping with traffic means doing roughly the speed limit. I do have 3 miles at 45mph prior to pulling into my drive.
I am thinking the lack of a sufficient cool down maybe detrimental in the long run.
Why would you want to turn the engine off and coast into the parking lot anyway? 2000ft is a little over a 1/3 of a mile.
Originally Posted By: Quattro Pete
Kind of a strange question comparing the two situations...
Well I am doing nearly both. I start the engine, get settled and I'm off. From the house I have 3 miles at 45mph then 60mph for the next 25 miles. I have been slowing down to 45mph for a few 1000 feet proir to pulling into the parking lot and turning the engine off. I then ride a van pool the rest of the way to work.
When I get back to the vehicle I start the engine get settled and I'm off except the speed limit is 55 and keeping with traffic means doing roughly the speed limit. I do have 3 miles at 45mph prior to pulling into my drive.
I am thinking the lack of a sufficient cool down maybe detrimental in the long run.
Why would you want to turn the engine off and coast into the parking lot anyway? 2000ft is a little over a 1/3 of a mile.
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Originally Posted By: TaterandNoodles
1) Cold start, no warm up and accelerate to 60mph.
Or
2) Decel from 60mph clutch in, key off immediately.
I assume you mean key off after parked, with which there is really no issue... If not this is what you should be doing, in fact I'd pull it back in 2nd to give engine braking(not necessary a good idea in wet conditions) and save the brakes... No fuel is being used at over 2K RPMs on decel as the PCM shuts down the injectors, so the engine is just pumping air and being cooled...
1) Cold start, no warm up and accelerate to 60mph.
Or
2) Decel from 60mph clutch in, key off immediately.
I assume you mean key off after parked, with which there is really no issue... If not this is what you should be doing, in fact I'd pull it back in 2nd to give engine braking(not necessary a good idea in wet conditions) and save the brakes... No fuel is being used at over 2K RPMs on decel as the PCM shuts down the injectors, so the engine is just pumping air and being cooled...
My fault, the vehicle is parked when the engine is shut off.
What I have noticed over the years is that once at idle or even off the oil and water temps climb. The lower flow rate of the water pump at idle takes longer to cool the engine then simply driving at 35mph. I don't have time to park and idle so that is not an option.
What I have noticed over the years is that once at idle or even off the oil and water temps climb. The lower flow rate of the water pump at idle takes longer to cool the engine then simply driving at 35mph. I don't have time to park and idle so that is not an option.
Originally Posted By: TaterandNoodles
I am thinking the lack of a sufficient cool down maybe detrimental in the long run.
Driving at a steady 60 mph on the hwy is probably the easiest job your engine will be asked to do. Why would you think this would require a cool down period? Does your owners manual tell you to perform a cool down? Are you aware of any engine failures because someone did not idle for a couple of minutes before shutting the engine off (assuming non-turbo engine)?
I really think you have nothing to worry about.
By the way, my wife routinely gets on the hwy which is 0.5 miles from our driveway and accelerates to full speed (65-70 mph). She also gets off the hwy and parks it within 0.5 miles of the hwy. Judging by the UOA, I can't see any harm being done.
I am thinking the lack of a sufficient cool down maybe detrimental in the long run.
Driving at a steady 60 mph on the hwy is probably the easiest job your engine will be asked to do. Why would you think this would require a cool down period? Does your owners manual tell you to perform a cool down? Are you aware of any engine failures because someone did not idle for a couple of minutes before shutting the engine off (assuming non-turbo engine)?
I really think you have nothing to worry about.
By the way, my wife routinely gets on the hwy which is 0.5 miles from our driveway and accelerates to full speed (65-70 mph). She also gets off the hwy and parks it within 0.5 miles of the hwy. Judging by the UOA, I can't see any harm being done.
Originally Posted By: TaterandNoodles
What I have noticed over the years is that once at idle or even off the oil and water temps climb.
This is normal and known as heat soak, mostly it's from heat buildup in the exhaust valves, exhaust ports & manifold(s) and is nothing to be concerned about in a NA(naturally aspirated) engine... If it were a turbo I'd do same as mentioned prior but defiantly let it idle for a minute or so...
What I have noticed over the years is that once at idle or even off the oil and water temps climb.
This is normal and known as heat soak, mostly it's from heat buildup in the exhaust valves, exhaust ports & manifold(s) and is nothing to be concerned about in a NA(naturally aspirated) engine... If it were a turbo I'd do same as mentioned prior but defiantly let it idle for a minute or so...
Originally Posted By: TaterandNoodles
1) Cold start, no warm up and accelerate to 60mph.
Or
2) Decel from 60mph clutch in, key off immediately.
I don't see an issue with #1, as long as you aren't flooring it to get to 60 mph.
I have about 3-5 minutes run time before I hit the highway. In fact its been that way for close to 40 years for me. I take it easy driving to the highway, and try not to mash the pedal getting on, no problems to report. Not everyone has the luxury to allow an engine ample warm up time before getting onto the highway. I do allow my engine to run until the tach reaches 1000 rpm after a cold start, so that extends my engine on time a bit.
I don't see any problems with #2 unless maybe you have a turbo.....
1) Cold start, no warm up and accelerate to 60mph.
Or
2) Decel from 60mph clutch in, key off immediately.
I don't see an issue with #1, as long as you aren't flooring it to get to 60 mph.
I have about 3-5 minutes run time before I hit the highway. In fact its been that way for close to 40 years for me. I take it easy driving to the highway, and try not to mash the pedal getting on, no problems to report. Not everyone has the luxury to allow an engine ample warm up time before getting onto the highway. I do allow my engine to run until the tach reaches 1000 rpm after a cold start, so that extends my engine on time a bit.
I don't see any problems with #2 unless maybe you have a turbo.....
Why would you "decel" all the way from 60mph with the clutch in?
I brake/coast down to maybe 20mph before I put the clutch in when stopping.....slower if I drop a gear or two.
Only time my clutch is "in" is when I am making a shift or starting the car. (throwout bearing = $5.00 and $900 labor!)
I brake/coast down to maybe 20mph before I put the clutch in when stopping.....slower if I drop a gear or two.
Only time my clutch is "in" is when I am making a shift or starting the car. (throwout bearing = $5.00 and $900 labor!)
Originally Posted By: ammolab
Why would you "decel" all the way from 60mph with the clutch in?
I brake/coast down to maybe 20mph before I put the clutch in when stopping.....slower if I drop a gear or two.
Only time my clutch is "in" is when I am making a shift or starting the car. (throwout bearing = $5.00 and $900 labor!)
I thought about that too, not good for the TOB, the pressure plate springs, or the brakes for that matter. I was commenting about the immediate shutdown.
Why would you "decel" all the way from 60mph with the clutch in?
I brake/coast down to maybe 20mph before I put the clutch in when stopping.....slower if I drop a gear or two.
Only time my clutch is "in" is when I am making a shift or starting the car. (throwout bearing = $5.00 and $900 labor!)
I thought about that too, not good for the TOB, the pressure plate springs, or the brakes for that matter. I was commenting about the immediate shutdown.
Originally Posted By: ARCOgraphite
Regarding #1: If you mean get on the highway with less than 1 min warmup = not good. Many ep and aw agents dont work when "cold", though that pistion is gonna get hot quick but the cyl will be cold fror 10 mins. If you have a roller cam then the VT wear isnt an issue and pressure lubed bearing wear should be minimal. If you have a chain timing system you can really aerate the oil cold. I no longer take the highway home from work in the winter as my car will be running for less than three mins and then i have to accelerate to 70 mh up a steep on ramp onto the Interstate. I take backroads now at 35mph and 2200 rpm light throttle
My apologies, but I'm not 100% on your abbreviations even thought I've been here awhile; this should help new members also.
ep?
aw -anti wear?
VT - valve train?
Thanks.
Regarding #1: If you mean get on the highway with less than 1 min warmup = not good. Many ep and aw agents dont work when "cold", though that pistion is gonna get hot quick but the cyl will be cold fror 10 mins. If you have a roller cam then the VT wear isnt an issue and pressure lubed bearing wear should be minimal. If you have a chain timing system you can really aerate the oil cold. I no longer take the highway home from work in the winter as my car will be running for less than three mins and then i have to accelerate to 70 mh up a steep on ramp onto the Interstate. I take backroads now at 35mph and 2200 rpm light throttle
My apologies, but I'm not 100% on your abbreviations even thought I've been here awhile; this should help new members also.
ep?
aw -anti wear?
VT - valve train?
Thanks.
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EP = Extreme Pressure
Originally Posted By: ammolab
Why would you "decel" all the way from 60mph with the clutch in?
I brake/coast down to maybe 20mph before I put the clutch in when stopping.....slower if I drop a gear or two.
Only time my clutch is "in" is when I am making a shift or starting the car. (throwout bearing = $5.00 and $900 labor!)
Totally agree. I've changed a clutch before, not something I want to wear out. I rarely downshift, I would much rather replace brakes. Neutral at stop lights always. As little clutching as possible.
Also I pretty much always accelerate to 60mph on a cold engine. I work just off the highway I use to go home from work.
Why would you "decel" all the way from 60mph with the clutch in?
I brake/coast down to maybe 20mph before I put the clutch in when stopping.....slower if I drop a gear or two.
Only time my clutch is "in" is when I am making a shift or starting the car. (throwout bearing = $5.00 and $900 labor!)
Totally agree. I've changed a clutch before, not something I want to wear out. I rarely downshift, I would much rather replace brakes. Neutral at stop lights always. As little clutching as possible.
Also I pretty much always accelerate to 60mph on a cold engine. I work just off the highway I use to go home from work.
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