Which break-in oil

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Just overhauled my toyota 22re.What weight and brand oil should be recommended.Also after a thousand miles and after 3000 miles.When can I put synthetic grade oil and which weight.I am running Napa gold filter.
 
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I`ve built many engines over the years, from 4 cyliders, V6`s, and big and small block V8`s. I use cam lube on the cam, a moly rich assembly lube on the bearings, and the cheapest 10W-30 lowest friction add pack I can find. (No diesel oils or racing ols), I start the engine, break in the cam, drain the oil and change the filter, tune everything up and take it out and drive it like I stoll it for about 25-50 miles. Lots of full throtle and backing off. Full throttle washes the oil off the cylinders for ring seating, backing off washes the particals away from the rings and adds oil to the cyliders. I may do this 25 or so times in the amount of time I`m breaking the engine in. Then I bring the vehicle back to the shop and change the oil to whatever I`m going to run in the engine and the filter, even synthetic. Never any failures, or oil usage. So the oil was changed twice in 50 miles and It`s nearly broke in.
 
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I've seen a story about breaking in motorcycle engines the same way. It contradicts a lot of the "conventional wisdom" but it seems to produce the best ring seal and power.
 
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I think some of the manufactures use a high moly oil for break-in. I think Valvoline makes a oil supplement that is high in Moly. I would use Castrol GTX for break-in as it is a good oil with some moly. You may want to add the Valvoline supplement to this oil. I think about 7500 miles is right for a break-in. Then a good 10w-30 synthetic would be best. I think Mobil 1 is very good in your application. Good luck with the new engine! [ June 09, 2004, 12:08 PM: Message edited by: TR3-2001SE ]
 

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quote:
Originally posted by Oilua: Just overhauled my toyota 22re.What weight and brand oil should be recommended.Also after a thousand miles and after 3000 miles.When can I put synthetic grade oil and which weight.I am running Napa gold filter.
Any cheapo 10W30 oil with a bottle of GM EOS for the initial start and cam run in. And just to be on the safe side don't start with the synthetics until after 3000 miles have passed. The Rotella 5W40 seems to be a good oil at a good price.
 
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Get Chevron Supreme 10w30 and change it at 1000 and again at 2000 and start the synth. If you didn't want to run the synth right away you could go 1000 supreme, 2000 Mobil Drive Clean Blend then synth at 3000 or 4000 miles. Or you can do waht I did and just change the intial fill at 2000 miles and move right to the synth. Daily Drives: -2003 Toyota Tacoma PreRunner XtraCab, 2.7 Liter , Mobil1 Synthetic SS 5W-30. ODO 8800 Miles. -1995 Toyota 4-Runner 3.0 V6, Mobil1 Synthetic SS 10W-30. ODO 90500 Miles. http://community.webshots.com/user/amkeer
 
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If you can get Schaeffer's or other oil with a very high moly content, that's an excellent way to go. Break-in is the high points of the moving parts rubbing against each other. They can weld together then rip apart and be carried off in the oil. This leaves micro-tears in the underlying metal and allows increased rates of wear. An oil with a very high antiwear capability allows these high points to press against each other and flatten instead of being torn off. Without the micro-tears in the metal, future wear is decreased. Ken
 

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quote:
Originally posted by Ken2: If you can get Schaeffer's or other oil with a very high moly content, that's an excellent way to go. Break-in is the high points of the moving parts rubbing against each other. They can weld together then rip apart and be carried off in the oil. This leaves micro-tears in the underlying metal and allows increased rates of wear. An oil with a very high antiwear capability allows these high points to press against each other and flatten instead of being torn off. Without the micro-tears in the metal, future wear is decreased.
So then something like Redline should work perfectly, but yet Redline doesn't recommend that you use their oil until you've broken in the engine. [I dont know]
 
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I would use Walmart 10W30 for the first 20-30 minutes. You want to keep rpms at or above 2000 for the first 20 minutes anyways. After that is done drain this oil out and change the filter. I would fill it with Delvac 1300 or Delo 400 15W40 for the next 500-600 miles if you are going to follow a tradional Toyota owners manual break in. These oils contain a lot of ZDDP and other anti wear/EP additives. After you get 500-600 miles on it run what ever oil you want to. Start with conservative OCI like 3000 miles at first. You can then start walking each oil change further each time out to about 7500 miles. I would wait until you are up to 7500 mile interval before doing a UOA. A rebuild tends to take longer to wear in. The end result should be just as nice as the origanal. If you choose to follow the Motuneusa break in method follow his recomendations to the letter.
 
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quote:
with a bottle of GM EOS for the initial start and cam run in.
I agree, a pint of GM EOS part #1052367 is a very good idea regardless of which oil you choose. I also thought this was interesting BI-20 BREAK IN OIL [ June 13, 2004, 07:42 PM: Message edited by: 69 Riv GS ]
 
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quote:
Originally posted by Oilua: Just overhauled my toyota 22re.What weight and brand oil should be recommended.Also after a thousand miles and after 3000 miles.When can I put synthetic grade oil and which weight.I am running Napa gold filter.
What should it be? is there a spec that it would call for anything other than the original... if 5w-30 then so be it if 10w-30 then so be it. As for the miles, I would say a few thousand before Syn and make sure no oil burning then change. --- What I recently did on a 2004 TACO was FF til 1899 miles Dealer oil (citco) 5w-30 to 2999 miles Mobil New Car Formula 5w-30 to 4429 Miles PenZoil 5w-30 SUV till 6319 Miles (on 6-12-2004). FF gave the best MPG.
 
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Originally posted by Steve S: The best choice would be a heavy duty engine oil ,Rotella ,Delo 400 etc.
ABSOLUTLY NOT!!!! Not until after break in. [Frown] [Frown] Sorry Steve, havta disagree with ya, too many friction modifiers. (MHO). [ June 14, 2004, 05:00 PM: Message edited by: Hasbeen ]
 
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As usual, I'll be the odd man out here. I say decide what oil you're going to use in the future and start out with that oil making the first change at a few hundred miles. Given what we see the manufacturers using for factory fill, I don't see how a typical rebuild would be any different other than you probably put a lot more time into making sure the fitting and assembly is right than they did....
 
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Originally posted by sbc350gearhead: I thought most HDEO's didn't have any FM's? [Confused]
I`m probably full of sh*t, I figured ZDDP was a friction modifier. Anyway, it is absolutly imposable to hone a cylinder as smooth as the manufactures do, therefore you need a different breakin procedure with a rebuild. A new engine cylinder is almost shiny from the factory, and believe it or not, they are assembled with very little oil around the ring packs and they break in very quickly. That`s why they can come from the factory with synthetics allready in them.
 
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