which brake pads should i get?
- Thread starter asiancivicmaniac
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Originally Posted By: asiancivicmaniac
If I put the pads on without turning the current rotors, and noise becomes a problem, I can always do something to the rotors later, am I correct?
Yes.
If you only replace the pads, measure the rotor thickness with a micrometer. This will you if your rotors are still serviceable. Your rotor thickness must be above the listed minimum in order to safely install a new set of pads. However, given the low mileage and the type of vehicle, I would say that your rotors are still OK.
When you do your pad slap, remove the caliper. Don't listen to those who said to only remove one bolt. You need to remove both bolts, remove the slide pins and thoroughly clean the bores and the pins. Relube the caliper bracket (where the pins slide) as well as the pins themselves. You'll need a synthetic caliper grease that comes with a brush in order to reach inside the holes. Check your parts store for Permatex synthetic caliper grease. Use brake clean to thoroughly clean the inside of the brake caliper and the clips that sit on the bracket. The lube that LT4 vette mentioned will go on the portion of the brake pad shim that the caliper "fingers" contact.
If I put the pads on without turning the current rotors, and noise becomes a problem, I can always do something to the rotors later, am I correct?
Yes.
If you only replace the pads, measure the rotor thickness with a micrometer. This will you if your rotors are still serviceable. Your rotor thickness must be above the listed minimum in order to safely install a new set of pads. However, given the low mileage and the type of vehicle, I would say that your rotors are still OK.
When you do your pad slap, remove the caliper. Don't listen to those who said to only remove one bolt. You need to remove both bolts, remove the slide pins and thoroughly clean the bores and the pins. Relube the caliper bracket (where the pins slide) as well as the pins themselves. You'll need a synthetic caliper grease that comes with a brush in order to reach inside the holes. Check your parts store for Permatex synthetic caliper grease. Use brake clean to thoroughly clean the inside of the brake caliper and the clips that sit on the bracket. The lube that LT4 vette mentioned will go on the portion of the brake pad shim that the caliper "fingers" contact.
I'm probably starting to get annoying, but I need to ask this. I will be placing my order today for the pads, and I've narrowed it down to the Hawk HPS and the Bendix CT-3. I'm having a hard time deciding though. They're both similar in price, but one is a semi-metallic and one is a ceramic. I've read that the semi-metallic will wear the rotors faster than the ceramics. Is this true. If I don't get any replies by this evening I will just get the Hawks. Thanks
Originally Posted By: asiancivicmaniac
I'm probably starting to get annoying, but I need to ask this. I will be placing my order today for the pads, and I've narrowed it down to the Hawk HPS and the Bendix CT-3. I'm having a hard time deciding though. They're both similar in price, but one is a semi-metallic and one is a ceramic. I've read that the semi-metallic will wear the rotors faster than the ceramics. Is this true. If I don't get any replies by this evening I will just get the Hawks. Thanks
Some ceramics can wear rotors faster than semi-metallic, and vice-versa as well. It just depends on what type of semi-metallic or ceramic formulation it is.
The CT-3 are probably less likely to make noise (but many people say the Hawks are quiet), but their performance may not be as good as the Hawks.
I'm probably starting to get annoying, but I need to ask this. I will be placing my order today for the pads, and I've narrowed it down to the Hawk HPS and the Bendix CT-3. I'm having a hard time deciding though. They're both similar in price, but one is a semi-metallic and one is a ceramic. I've read that the semi-metallic will wear the rotors faster than the ceramics. Is this true. If I don't get any replies by this evening I will just get the Hawks. Thanks
Some ceramics can wear rotors faster than semi-metallic, and vice-versa as well. It just depends on what type of semi-metallic or ceramic formulation it is.
The CT-3 are probably less likely to make noise (but many people say the Hawks are quiet), but their performance may not be as good as the Hawks.
I've had HAWK HPS pads on a previous vehicle. They were extremely noisy, even after 1k miles. I took them back to the store, returned them and bought the CT-3 pads. Didn't have noise or issues ever. I now have CT-3 on another vehicle I own with zero issues what so ever in the 27k miles that they have been on the front of the car.
Plus, you can't beat the 1 time free replacement of the CT-3 pads. The CT-3 pads will also dust less than the HPS pads.
I've read that ceramics stress the rotor more than the semi-metallic pads since they transfer the heat onto the rotors more, where as the semi-metallic pads take the brunt of the heat.
As The Critic stated, it can probably work both ways, depending on the pad. Let us know what you ended up buying.
Plus, you can't beat the 1 time free replacement of the CT-3 pads. The CT-3 pads will also dust less than the HPS pads.
I've read that ceramics stress the rotor more than the semi-metallic pads since they transfer the heat onto the rotors more, where as the semi-metallic pads take the brunt of the heat.
As The Critic stated, it can probably work both ways, depending on the pad. Let us know what you ended up buying.
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I just ordered the Hawks half an hour ago.
I always use semi-metallics (easier on the rotors), and I just get the inexpensive ones like Raybestos brand. When it comes to normal driving , brakes are never the determining factor in stopping distance -- tires are. Spend money on good tires. If you can lock up your tires or feel the ABS pulsing, then it doesn't do any good to improve your brakes or buy expensive pads.
Originally Posted By: tonycarguy
I always use semi-metallics (easier on the rotors), and I just get the inexpensive ones like Raybestos brand. When it comes to normal driving , brakes are never the determining factor in stopping distance -- tires are. Spend money on good tires. If you can lock up your tires or feel the ABS pulsing, then it doesn't do any good to improve your brakes or buy expensive pads.
When you live in a hilly area or drive aggressively, sub par brake pads that would usually have the ability to lock your wheels after 1 or 2 stops will eventually heat up and you will experience brake fade. They can also glaze over from the heat and never provide the same stopping distance as before.
I always use semi-metallics (easier on the rotors), and I just get the inexpensive ones like Raybestos brand. When it comes to normal driving , brakes are never the determining factor in stopping distance -- tires are. Spend money on good tires. If you can lock up your tires or feel the ABS pulsing, then it doesn't do any good to improve your brakes or buy expensive pads.
When you live in a hilly area or drive aggressively, sub par brake pads that would usually have the ability to lock your wheels after 1 or 2 stops will eventually heat up and you will experience brake fade. They can also glaze over from the heat and never provide the same stopping distance as before.
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When it comes to something as important as brakes I would rather spend some more and get high quality parts.
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