Hawk HPS on the Supra for 6 years now, I love them! Excellent stopping, 0% noise, not much brake dust on my chrome wheels...
which brake pads should i get?
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Yes, lug nuts to the wheels....cause the tire shop over tightened them. LOL
On your Civic, there is only one bolt you need to remove to be able to swing (lift) the caliper all the way up and remove the pads. You can leave the upper and lower pad retainer clips in and the pads just wiggle out. Remove cap to master cylinder and use a C clamp to push the piston back in.
Whats the difference between the Bendix CT3 pads and the Bendix Import Quiet pads ?
On your Civic, there is only one bolt you need to remove to be able to swing (lift) the caliper all the way up and remove the pads. You can leave the upper and lower pad retainer clips in and the pads just wiggle out. Remove cap to master cylinder and use a C clamp to push the piston back in.
Whats the difference between the Bendix CT3 pads and the Bendix Import Quiet pads ?
Lol, if the lug nuts are hard to take off this time, I only have myself to blame.
I have no idea about the Bendix lineup.
I have no idea about the Bendix lineup.
If memory serves me well, the CT-3 are more of a performance pad than the IQ pads.
Do NOT push the brake fluid back into the master cyl, open the bleeder and let it out there at the caliper. Thr back flow of dirt can screw up the MC and anti-skid valves.
Just the opinion of the guy who's been there.
Smoky
On your Civic, there is only one bolt you need to remove to be able to swing (lift) the caliper all the way up and remove the pads. You can leave the upper and lower pad retainer clips in and the pads just wiggle out. Remove cap to master cylinder and use a C clamp to push the piston back in.
Whats the difference between the Bendix CT3 pads and the Bendix Import Quiet pads ?
[/quote]
Just the opinion of the guy who's been there.
Smoky
On your Civic, there is only one bolt you need to remove to be able to swing (lift) the caliper all the way up and remove the pads. You can leave the upper and lower pad retainer clips in and the pads just wiggle out. Remove cap to master cylinder and use a C clamp to push the piston back in.
Whats the difference between the Bendix CT3 pads and the Bendix Import Quiet pads ?
Originally Posted By: Smoky14
Do NOT push the brake fluid back into the master cyl, open the bleeder and let it out there at the caliper. Thr back flow of dirt can screw up the MC and anti-skid valves.
Just the opinion of the guy who's been there.
The aftermarket is in agreement with you, but the OEMs (at least Ford) continues to stand by its position--retracting the caliper piston does not generate enough fluid flow to cause the problems that you mentioned.
Originally Posted By: Smoky14
On your Civic, there is only one bolt you need to remove to be able to swing (lift) the caliper all the way up and remove the pads. You can leave the upper and lower pad retainer clips in and the pads just wiggle out. Remove cap to master cylinder and use a C clamp to push the piston back in.
He's replacing the rotors as well, so he will need to remove the two screws on the hub using an impact screwdriver. Even if he was done a "pad slap," he would need to remove both bolts so that he could clean the "bores" in the caliper bracket. He would also need to remove the anti-rattle clips to clean them.
Originally Posted By: Smoky14
Whats the difference between the Bendix CT3 pads and the Bendix Import Quiet pads ?
One is a premium ceramic formulation, the other is a premium semi-metallic. The CT-3 is marketed as a "performance ceramic."
Do NOT push the brake fluid back into the master cyl, open the bleeder and let it out there at the caliper. Thr back flow of dirt can screw up the MC and anti-skid valves.
Just the opinion of the guy who's been there.
The aftermarket is in agreement with you, but the OEMs (at least Ford) continues to stand by its position--retracting the caliper piston does not generate enough fluid flow to cause the problems that you mentioned.
Originally Posted By: Smoky14
On your Civic, there is only one bolt you need to remove to be able to swing (lift) the caliper all the way up and remove the pads. You can leave the upper and lower pad retainer clips in and the pads just wiggle out. Remove cap to master cylinder and use a C clamp to push the piston back in.
He's replacing the rotors as well, so he will need to remove the two screws on the hub using an impact screwdriver. Even if he was done a "pad slap," he would need to remove both bolts so that he could clean the "bores" in the caliper bracket. He would also need to remove the anti-rattle clips to clean them.
Originally Posted By: Smoky14
Whats the difference between the Bendix CT3 pads and the Bendix Import Quiet pads ?
One is a premium ceramic formulation, the other is a premium semi-metallic. The CT-3 is marketed as a "performance ceramic."
So I returned the Wearever rotors today. Now the combo will be either Raybestos or Centric rotors and I think I'm going to knock Akebono out of the pad choices since it is the priciest of the four.
And what are the everybody's opinions on either the Haynes or Chilton manuals? I have found some diy directions online but would like one more source just in case the people who wrote the diys left something out. And I can't afford the factory manual.
And what are the everybody's opinions on either the Haynes or Chilton manuals? I have found some diy directions online but would like one more source just in case the people who wrote the diys left something out. And I can't afford the factory manual.
If you order from RockAuto, search for a coupon code online that will give you an additional 5% off your order.
Originally Posted By: LT4 Vette
I got the Haynes for the 2001 - 2005 Civic, I could scan the pages.
No need to buy it.
Autozone's website has a free repair guide.
I got the Haynes for the 2001 - 2005 Civic, I could scan the pages.
No need to buy it.
Autozone's website has a free repair guide.
Originally Posted By: LT4 Vette
How many miles on your Civic ?
40.4k miles. I know the rotors are probably still good. That's why I'm keeping them for next time. I originally thought I will do this during Christmas break but I'm starting to hear a slight squeal so I think it would be better if I get it done during Thanksgiving weekend. Probably will be done on Black Friday. I don't feel like spending the time running around taking the rotors to be turned.
If the weather permits it's going to be a fun weekend. Oil change on Thanksgiving, brake job on Friday, and hopefully I get to do a detail on Saturday. Actually, if I'm not too much of a bum on Thanksgiving and sleep in I might get to the brake job.
How many miles on your Civic ?
40.4k miles. I know the rotors are probably still good. That's why I'm keeping them for next time. I originally thought I will do this during Christmas break but I'm starting to hear a slight squeal so I think it would be better if I get it done during Thanksgiving weekend. Probably will be done on Black Friday. I don't feel like spending the time running around taking the rotors to be turned.
If the weather permits it's going to be a fun weekend. Oil change on Thanksgiving, brake job on Friday, and hopefully I get to do a detail on Saturday. Actually, if I'm not too much of a bum on Thanksgiving and sleep in I might get to the brake job.
Originally Posted By: LT4 Vette
I got the Haynes for the 2001 - 2005 Civic, I could scan the pages.
No need to buy it.
How is it?
If I get my rotors online from Advance Auto, I'm about $14 shy from free shipping so I figured I could get it as my filler item instead of paying for shipping, but the usefulness of these manuals seems car dependent. And I don't want to pay $20 for something that will turn out to be useless.
I got the Haynes for the 2001 - 2005 Civic, I could scan the pages.
No need to buy it.
How is it?
If I get my rotors online from Advance Auto, I'm about $14 shy from free shipping so I figured I could get it as my filler item instead of paying for shipping, but the usefulness of these manuals seems car dependent. And I don't want to pay $20 for something that will turn out to be useless.
Originally Posted By: LT4 Vette
Free repair guide online, thats even better. I never knew AZ offered that.
With that low miles, I would keep the original rotors.
Keep as in just leave them on there without turning and slap new pads on? I thought new pads can't go with an unturned old rotor?
Free repair guide online, thats even better. I never knew AZ offered that.
With that low miles, I would keep the original rotors.
Keep as in just leave them on there without turning and slap new pads on? I thought new pads can't go with an unturned old rotor?
Its a preety good manual, the only reason why I bought is cause the instrument cluster died on my mom's 2001 Civic and I needed the schematics of the electrical system to troubleshoot. The manual also covers the 2002-2004 CRV.
I put new pads on my mom's Civic WITHOUT cutting the rotors and the brakes are as quiet as a mouse. Just make sure you use anti squeel lube on the back of your new pads.
My 65 year old mom does 100% stop and go driving cause she is too scared to drive on the highway. her rotors were in perfect condition after 40K miles of stop and go driving.
I put new pads on my mom's Civic WITHOUT cutting the rotors and the brakes are as quiet as a mouse. Just make sure you use anti squeel lube on the back of your new pads.
My 65 year old mom does 100% stop and go driving cause she is too scared to drive on the highway. her rotors were in perfect condition after 40K miles of stop and go driving.
If I can get away with just changing the pads and not touching the rotors that would be great. Save a few bucks too. The anti-squeal lube is the stuff that comes with some pads right?
Is this the car that you put the Duralasts on?
I know the OE is ceramic but are there any ill effects of using a semi-metallic pad like the Hawk Hps compared to using a ceramic?
My 50 year old mother has been driving for eight years and she has not once drove on a highway. I think the fastest she's driven before is 60, lol. And thanks again guys, been a lot of help.
Is this the car that you put the Duralasts on?
I know the OE is ceramic but are there any ill effects of using a semi-metallic pad like the Hawk Hps compared to using a ceramic?
My 50 year old mother has been driving for eight years and she has not once drove on a highway. I think the fastest she's driven before is 60, lol. And thanks again guys, been a lot of help.
Yes, the lube comes with some pads. I put Duralast Gold on her 2001 Civic....which has identical brakes/rotors to the 2005 Civic. Great pad with great bite, but I'm never concerned at the amout of brake dust.
You won't have any problems with Hawk pads, since they are high quality to begin with.
You won't have any problems with Hawk pads, since they are high quality to begin with.
If I put the pads on without turning the current rotors, and noise becomes a problem, I can always do something to the rotors later, am I correct?
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